Amateur Overlander (1 Viewer)

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Every Monday morning I'm last minute trying to get all the grease out of my fingernails because as a pediatrician I don't want angry mommas yelling at me for touching their little ones with grimy hands, LOL!

What's the difference between a mechanic and a surgeon?






A mechanic washes his hands BEFORE going to the toilet :rimshot:
 
I was able to make some good progress this evening, but the rest of the weekend might be rained out. I was able to replace the front main seal and new crankshaft pulley. got the oil pump cover off without stripping those JIS bolts and replaced the oil pump cover gasket. Removed the old radiator, replaced the water pump. Got the timing chain and rotor for the distributor lined up to spec (I mean you never really know until you go to crank it but I took some pix and if anyone sees anything off please let me know). New distributor o-ring in place with new distributor cap and rotor. New plug wires in place and valve cover replaced with screws tightened down to about 15 inch pounds. New radiator set in place and on the last screw it fell into oblivion. Searched for about 15 minutes in the engine bay and on the ground, but could not find it so I called it a night. Pretty good progress for about 4 hours of work.

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Oil pump with cover off, you can new new main seal in the background. Wasn't sure about placement and asked if it looked good and got feedback it did indeed appear in place.


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Marks on the back of the gears denoting I am at TDC, pretty sure.

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Brand new crank pulley. Bolt in place and torqued to 304ft/lbs
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Water pump in place, just begging for belts and fan clutch.

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Rotor pointing to #1, or where it will be once the cap is placed back on.
While you have the valve cover off, I'd recommend checking the valve lash.
Not fun, but...
 
While you have the valve cover off, I'd recommend checking the valve lash.
Not fun, but...
I should have thought of that myself. Valve cover is back on so I think I will let it ride for now. Next time the cover is off I will remember to do this.
 
PM items getting close to being done. Today I was able to get the new belts on after tightening up the fan clutch. New fan shroud in place, radiator bolted in and all hoses hooked back up. Throttle body back in place with all hoses hooked back up, almost all of them new. replaced fuel filter and fuel line associated with that. Battery tray and battery placed back. Filled cooling system back up with coolant and did not see any leaks. Kept my fingers crossed when I started it back up since I had messed with the timing, but no worries, cranked right up and I adjusted the distributor to make sure it was humming on all cylinders. Bolted that back in and felt pretty good about everything. I still need to replace all vacuum hoses, but it was getting pretty close to Super Bowl start time and I had some cattle get out so I had to deal with that. I do plan on getting an M2K alternator and there is still a little I need to do to put the inside back together. I do think there is a power steering fluid leak coming out of the reservoir, but I suspect I cleaned up whatever oil leaks I had.
 
Concerning that aforementioned PS fluid leak. I noted that it was coming from the top of where the oil cooler line plugs into the reservoir. I did not see a crack or drip from the line itself. So I took a worm drive clamp and tightened it up at the top keeping the original clip in place. I am not sure if this is a long term or short term fix, but for now it IS fixed and for much less time and money than a new line.

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I have driven it all afternoon and you can see it is still dry at the junction just above the clamp. Fingers crossed.

I also installed one of the autozone charcoal canisters that has been reported to work well. I had a little trouble finding the tank and purge lines since the tank line was attached to a metal filter of some kind and zip tied. But find them I did and put everything in place. I was not having any specific issues while filling up, but PM is PM and I wanted to replace it.

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I also have some pix of my upgraded interior for you.
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These are custom made covers with seat foam repair. It was a little bit of a journey and I would not say it looks perfect, though in the pix you can hardly tell. I did not do the work and the gentleman I worked with was slow, but he was nice and relatively inexpensive. The material is 100% genuine vinyl, probably the best option for an overlanding vehicle. He could not source leather. All in all I am happy and quite frankly in my area I did not have many options. I will say it is lightyears of an improvement from where I was and I am not ashamed to have my wife ride with me now.

I also repaired the seat gears with the new plastic gear. Out of all the things I have "fixed" for whatever reason I really enjoyed that fix. It seemed elegant, call me crazy.

Somewhere along the way I misplaced my transfer case leather boot cover so there is an unsightly hole in my front console. I did find that part on amazon though so I have one on the way. I mentioned last time ordering an m2K alternator, however, in the time it took to get that deal done land tank came back in stock with his alternator upgrade and I purchased that instead. It is roughly half the price for the 150amp upgrade.

My next interior upgrade will be the driver side door panel. Mine is broken and the handle to close the door is not repairable. The tab for the screw is broken and I do not have good luck with adhesives in areas like that. I found one on eBay and I spent way too much on it. They are hard to find in good condition. I do plan on purchasing new window runs for every window. They all are a little slow, but not nearly as bad as videos I have seen. If nothing else I may replace the front driver side which seems to have had more wear and tear of any of them. I do need to drop it off at the shop to get the new 4.88 differentials installed along with air lockers and on board air.


And then and then and then...
 
I do plan on purchasing new window runs for every window. They all are a little slow, but not nearly as bad as videos I have seen. If nothing else I may replace the front driver side which seems to have had more wear and tear of any of them
The drivers window can usually stand replacement of its runs as it gets the most use. You might try dry silicone spray on everything else, as it will usually markedly improve the window speed enough to obviate the need for replacement unless there is an obvious defect.
 
I am not sure if this is a long term or short term fix

Keep it on your PM list.
The pic shows that hose is cracked in several places around that tube. Matter of time before it leaks again.

I just used some oil tested hose from auto parts store. Petty sure the toyota hose for this is a straight bit of hose
 
The drivers window can usually stand replacement of its runs as it gets the most use. You might try dry silicone spray on everything else, as it will usually markedly improve the window speed enough to obviate the need for replacement unless there is an obvious defect.
I will give this a shot first, sounds like a plan.
 
Keep it on your PM list.
The pic shows that hose is cracked in several places around that tube. Matter of time before it leaks again.

I just used some oil tested hose from auto parts store. Petty sure the toyota hose for this is a straight bit of hose
I mean, yeah. When I looked to replace that hose it is not a separate part, it is either the whole paper clip or nothing. Without thinking too hard about it I figured there was a reason. But if I could get just the hose replaced, that would be the long term fix. What type of hose would I purchase?
 

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