Alternator altering

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And good luck getting anything repaired under warranty at MG
 
with either 2 or 4 gage welding cables
I agree that upgrading the battery cables is called for. But welding cable does not make good battery cables. The copper wires inside will corrode over time and will wick in moisture. Instead, use marine battery cable. The strands in that stuff are tinned and do well in the elements, as you would expect. It is like weatherproof welding cable. Good stuff.
 
IMHO, Mean Green alternators are more hype than output.
I keep hearing both ends of the spectrum on that. Some love their stuff, some hate them. Honestly I wish there was a legit 120A solution still available for the 3FE. There used to be a Beck/Arnley available and it was easy to source a Denso rectifier and voltage regulator for it to make it MUCH more reliable. They're getting harder and harder to find though, and the one I have now, the ear for the tensioning bolt is juuuuuuust slightly off, enough to make the bolt bend slightly when tensioned properly. It'd be easy to shave down the ear so it lines up properly, but then you run the risk of getting metal shavings into your bearings and other moving components. Bad juju on an electrical part. Unfortunately removing the front housing makes for a difficult reassembly on a 3FE alternator. I've done it several times and it takes a LOT of finesse to get it to all go back together right. Can't for the life of me figure out why because it all seems so cut and dry, but it does.
 
I agree that upgrading the battery cables is called for. But welding cable does not make good battery cables. The copper wires inside will corrode over time and will wick in moisture. Instead, use marine battery cable. The strands in that stuff are tinned and do well in the elements, as you would expect. It is like weatherproof welding cable. Good stuff.

yep. Old post. I think you told me the same before and I started suggesting people to use the marine cable instead 😀
 
What is driving the need for the higher amp rated alternators? Big stereo system, winch, huge array of halogen driving lights?
 
I tried this upgrade a while back, but the belt that was on my rig was too long. It was the belt that came on the truck when I bought it a few years ago (Gates replacement) and was definitely used, but in decent shape.I ended up ziptying the 80A alt in place to move the truck halfway across WA from Silverdale to Chelan.
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This worked better than the failing OEM alternator that was there, but I knew I needed to get a real belt solution (wiring will be redone with 2FE).I found vbeltguys was selling "Bando" belts (found out they just cross reference to Bando but actually sell D&D Power Drive belts) for $5. I ordered a "Bando 5610", 5L620 & 5L630 for $20 shipped.
Of the 3, the NEW factory length belt & 5L630 will fit (the 5L620 would if I could rock the alternator close enough to the block). I am going to run the 5L630 for 2 reasons, the 5L630 has a little more room on the adjuster when tensioned about the same & being an industrial belt, it's supposed to stretch less over it's life.
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At this point my set-up (mechanically) is: 3FE 80A alternator, FJ60 fan & pulley, 5L630 belt, & I changed out the tensioning bolt to a shorter one (has full thread when belt is tensioned).
Hope that helps somebody.
 
pm me. I should. (62 stuff).
 
Yes, this has been done on my shop truck, works great.

There are 2 terminals on the 79-87 2F alt: IG and L.

There are 3 terminals in the 3FE plug: IG, L, and S.

IG is 12V+ from the ignition switch to excite the alt (turns on the charging).

L turns off the charge light in the dash

S senses the chassis voltage and adjusts the alternator output to hold it at ~14V


The IG and S wire can be the same source, telling the alt to turn on, and showing the alt what the chassis voltage is.
Does anyone know where I can find out which terminal is IG, L and S? Does someone have a picture?
 
Can someone identify each terminal on this alternator?

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Yes, this has been done on my shop truck, works great.

There are 2 terminals on the 79-87 2F alt: IG and L.

There are 3 terminals in the 3FE plug: IG, L, and S.

IG is 12V+ from the ignition switch to excite the alt (turns on the charging).

L turns off the charge light in the dash

S senses the chassis voltage and adjusts the alternator output to hold it at ~14V


The IG and S wire can be the same source, telling the alt to turn on, and showing the alt what the chassis voltage is.
 
If you look back at posts 42 & 45, there are pictures of the back of the alternator with which terminal is what. The B+ terminal is the stud with the black plastic shroud on the side of the alternator.
 
If you look back at posts 42 & 45, there are pictures of the back of the alternator with which terminal is what. The B+ terminal is the stud with the black plastic shroud on the side of the alternator.
Thanks. For some reason the housing on my alternator does not have the labels.
 
I saw that. Weird. Hope those pictures work for you though
 
Just to followup. It is installed and working. Did not have to modify the mounting brackets or replace the pulley. Waiting on the correct plug from Coolerman to finish it off

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Can you tell me what belt you're running? You seem to have a fair bit more adjustment than I do.
 
Does anyone know if the alternator bracket like above (L shape at the end) is available anywhere? Mine is just straight and comes loose without the tensioner on the end. I have seen the tension bolt for sale from City Racer just haven't seen the bracket anywhere. Thanks.
 
Can you tell me what belt you're running? You seem to have a fair bit more adjustment than I d


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