AlaskanWheeler
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If it fits a '76 I would be interested in one as well
(Almost) OEM Intermittent Wipers for the FJ40 (3 Viewers)
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Will this work on older trucks with the overhead wipers?
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- #24
It would work as is for 24V, but I'll make some changes to better protect the circuit from voltage spikes . The voltage limit of the circuit now is 30V but a transient spike above 30V could destroy the voltage regulator (VR). The only difference in a 24V truck is that the VR is converting an additional 12V into heat.
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- #25
I think the Matsuba is fine as long as you don't mind the non-OEM knob. I think the adapter Coolerman was making ended up being a little more complex than he originally hoped?
I'm using the original switch. I realize I didn't really explain how the module works despite the long post. The uC monitors the position of the switch and switches the relays as required. There is no longer 12V in the switch, but there is 3.3V that the uC can monitor. Nothing changes in the truck. You unplug the switch from the harness and plug the module inline. I'm not sure what a dragging motor/linkage is, but it should have no effect. The module is simply switching grounds for the lo and hi speed wires.
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- #26
I do try to be methodical. 25 years in Naval aviation can do that to a person. Vibration would only affect the uC that is in a socket. It could conceivably work loose, but it could be soldered to the board instead. I'll give that some thought. It's not waterproof but I would consider it very water resistant if the wire entry/exit openings were sealed. It could also be "potted" but I've never tried that before. Don't know what costs are involved.
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- #27
I really don't know. Not trying to be evasive, I just haven't finalized the design or compiled a final bill of materials yet. I haven't even priced the harness connectors or wire either. I'll start figuring it out soon enough.
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- #28
I designed it for Coolerman's '71 and tested it on my '78. It should work on any year in between as well as later years. Not sure about earlier than '68.
Due to age/design it's really common for a stock wiper motor to pull a lot of current . Since you've isolated the switch itself away from the 12/24v system that part is fine - it puts the load point to the relay so it's just a matter of it's rating and possibly creating excess heat . That was my only point - should have clarified that . I would think if the relay is rated to handle 30 amps it shouldn't have a problem as long as the wiring coming in/out can support the load .
I have looked at the Matsuba delay box and it's wiring , as well as the fsm - need to talk with @Coolerman and see if he ever finalized an adapter for that setup . I don't mind another knob if I can fit it into the spare hole in the dash , just really want delay wipers instead of constantly turning mine on/off when trying to keep it planted in traffic @70mph....besides , another knob just sort of fits into the look of the 40's dash anyway .
I think if you keep it rated heavily enough and maybe have it potted that's a pretty solid design-should be bulletproof .
Sarge
I have looked at the Matsuba delay box and it's wiring , as well as the fsm - need to talk with @Coolerman and see if he ever finalized an adapter for that setup . I don't mind another knob if I can fit it into the spare hole in the dash , just really want delay wipers instead of constantly turning mine on/off when trying to keep it planted in traffic @70mph....besides , another knob just sort of fits into the look of the 40's dash anyway .
I think if you keep it rated heavily enough and maybe have it potted that's a pretty solid design-should be bulletproof .
Sarge
DomSmith
SILVER Star
Interested. Thanks for working on this.
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- #32
The relays are 15 amp. The harness wiring for the wipers and washer (in my '78 at least) are 18 AWG (hence the 15A fuse for that circuit). I wouldn't want more than ~7A on stranded 18AWG wire.
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- #33
Good question. Of course, any polarized cap is sensitive to reverse polarity and all of the components are sensitive to voltage (and current) spikes. Tantalum caps can fail (badly compared to an aluminum cap) if used improperly. TI recommends that cap for the voltage regulator in the prototype, but I will probably use a different automotive-grade VR and a low-ESR Al cap.
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Coolerman
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I have been chomping at the bit waiting for this to become public! I knew the response would be good. This is a much needed addition to the FJ40 and the best part is it's completely hidden with NO modes to the wiring! Plug and play.
As soon as I receive the new module I will test it on my 71. Going in for my third eye surgery Tuesday so will be out of the loop for a while.
I do have a working Mitsuba design, but there is an issue with the Mitsuba controller which can cause erratic operation under the following two circumstances.
One:As Weber Sarge pointed out if your linkage/motor is dragging, and you set the Mitsuba for a short wipe cycle, the contacts do not stay closed long enough to get the motor to move the park switch off it's park position. This results in the wipers moving part way then stopping until the next wipe cycle, which will then move them in a full swipe. I originally had this adapter harness tapped into the low speed wiper circuit, but discovered that made the problem worse. I redesigned the adapter harness to switch the high speed wiper circuit. That helped a lot, but it still occurs. The true issue is that the Mitsuba module has a fixed time that the contacts remain closed that is just too short. Also this module uses all discrete components, there is no uP controlling anything, AND it uses all aluminum caps for the timing which means timing will drift as it ages.
Two: If your park circuit contacts is not adjusted correctly, or the contacts are dirty, operation can be very erratic! I messed with mine for quite a while before figuring this out.
Once I took the wiper motor and linkage off the truck, completely took it apart, cleaned and lubed everything, dressed the brushes and cleaned the communtator, it was like night and day difference! It was so much smoother in operation and much quieter! The main culprit causing the drag was the shafts going through the windshield for the wiper arms. The old grease had "evaporated" leaving behind a sticky hardened mass that was really dragging on the wipers. Then I had to adjust the park switch until it worked correctly.
Even with all that, the Mitsuba still would sometimes do a half wipe. Here is a pic of one I modified showing the adapter harness. It picks up power and ground from the cigar lighter circuit while still allowing use of the cigar lighter. It also plugs in between the wiper switch and harness... The Mitsuba is a good cheap way to do it and even with it's faults it sort of fits in with the quirkyness of the FJ40...
As soon as I receive the new module I will test it on my 71. Going in for my third eye surgery Tuesday so will be out of the loop for a while.
I do have a working Mitsuba design, but there is an issue with the Mitsuba controller which can cause erratic operation under the following two circumstances.
One:As Weber Sarge pointed out if your linkage/motor is dragging, and you set the Mitsuba for a short wipe cycle, the contacts do not stay closed long enough to get the motor to move the park switch off it's park position. This results in the wipers moving part way then stopping until the next wipe cycle, which will then move them in a full swipe. I originally had this adapter harness tapped into the low speed wiper circuit, but discovered that made the problem worse. I redesigned the adapter harness to switch the high speed wiper circuit. That helped a lot, but it still occurs. The true issue is that the Mitsuba module has a fixed time that the contacts remain closed that is just too short. Also this module uses all discrete components, there is no uP controlling anything, AND it uses all aluminum caps for the timing which means timing will drift as it ages.
Two: If your park circuit contacts is not adjusted correctly, or the contacts are dirty, operation can be very erratic! I messed with mine for quite a while before figuring this out.
Once I took the wiper motor and linkage off the truck, completely took it apart, cleaned and lubed everything, dressed the brushes and cleaned the communtator, it was like night and day difference! It was so much smoother in operation and much quieter! The main culprit causing the drag was the shafts going through the windshield for the wiper arms. The old grease had "evaporated" leaving behind a sticky hardened mass that was really dragging on the wipers. Then I had to adjust the park switch until it worked correctly.
Even with all that, the Mitsuba still would sometimes do a half wipe. Here is a pic of one I modified showing the adapter harness. It picks up power and ground from the cigar lighter circuit while still allowing use of the cigar lighter. It also plugs in between the wiper switch and harness... The Mitsuba is a good cheap way to do it and even with it's faults it sort of fits in with the quirkyness of the FJ40...
djcfj40
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Great write up Coolerman. Hope the surgery goes well and a speedy recovery.
Good luck with the eye surgery - I'm going blind and that's why I haven't dove into doing my harness mods to use the Matsuba I have here . Good points about the dragging wipers/loading against the motor/park switch - wondered about that with an analog timer setup . I need to go through mine - the mechanical part on those shafts is no problem here and will be done soon .
Any chance you have a harness made up for the Matsuba or you need my controller first ??
Sarge
Any chance you have a harness made up for the Matsuba or you need my controller first ??
Sarge
Coolerman
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What do you mean your going blind? Macular degeneration or just getting old?
Is your delay module identical to the one in my pic above or is it more like the link you sent me? If it's not identical, the wiring may be different. Can you scan the schematic that came with it and post it? If it's different it may require a completely different harness.
I can make a harness for you if it's the same as the one I have, or I can sell you the parts and give you my drawing if you want to do it yourself. (This is the first draft drawing I did) I do not have the most current one on this computer.) This version taps into the cigar lighter B+ and ground for power while still allowing the cigar lighter to work. If you wanted to run them off the fuse block it becomes a bit simpler to build.
Is your delay module identical to the one in my pic above or is it more like the link you sent me? If it's not identical, the wiring may be different. Can you scan the schematic that came with it and post it? If it's different it may require a completely different harness.
I can make a harness for you if it's the same as the one I have, or I can sell you the parts and give you my drawing if you want to do it yourself. (This is the first draft drawing I did) I do not have the most current one on this computer.) This version taps into the cigar lighter B+ and ground for power while still allowing the cigar lighter to work. If you wanted to run them off the fuse block it becomes a bit simpler to build.
Some of it's age - otherwise it's a seriously advanced myopia , the orbits are being stretched really badly and causing blind spots . Eventually , they will all fill in and the lights go out . I can't get enough light transmission most of the time , when working in any shaded areas I use led head lamps , a lot . I tig weld at most with a 9 shade and no shadow remnants if that tells you anything . Working under a dash is really getting hard but I still do some work when no one can figure stuff out .
The controller I have is the Matsuba that someone posted a link up , I'll dig it out and get back with the specifics...
Sarge
The controller I have is the Matsuba that someone posted a link up , I'll dig it out and get back with the specifics...
Sarge
djcfj40
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I have one of the Matsuba units as well. It's still in the box just sitting on the shelf waiting for me to install it. If you guys need to borrow it , your welcome to.
