Awesome thank you very much I am a new to the LX570 so any help is appreciated.
Allow myself to introduce….myself. (2009 LX570 OEM+ build and maintenance thread) (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter LX Cruiser
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- 2009 570 lx maintenance
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- #22
As am I! Had mine all of a week so far. It’s my wife’s daily. We will be piling on the miles!
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- #23
While I’m waiting on a couple tools to finish the brake swap, my 2nd row console lid came in. I went with the gray instead of the wood finish for the lid. The two upholstered side pieces pop straight out to reveal two small screws. Remove those, and pull firmly up, and it pops right out.
I also ordered the 3D printed front cup holder. I read about some loose fitment issues in the past, but this one fits very snug and holds our Hydro Flasks securely.
I also ordered the 3D printed front cup holder. I read about some loose fitment issues in the past, but this one fits very snug and holds our Hydro Flasks securely.
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- #24
Finished the Tundra brake conversion up front. This reamer bit showed up and made quick work of enlarging the caliper mounting holes as needed. I used some Tap Magic as well and kept the bit in good shape.
I finished the install, bled the brakes, and took it for a spin. Much improved! The brakes grab harder, and it stops much better.
I finished the install, bled the brakes, and took it for a spin. Much improved! The brakes grab harder, and it stops much better.
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- #25
After the brake swap job was done, I decided to put it in 4Lo. The plan is to exercise the actuator and engage the center diff lock on a regular basis. I have no idea if the previous owner did this at all. Well, it went into L4 just fine, didn’t take too long. But when I took it out of 4Lo, I got the “Check VSC System” message on the dash, with the 4Lo light blinking. The L4 switch doesn’t work now.
I will see if it threw a code tomorrow, but it seems that maybe it just had a hard time coming out of 4Lo and decided to freak out. I am planning on replacing the oil in the diffs and TC.
I will see if it threw a code tomorrow, but it seems that maybe it just had a hard time coming out of 4Lo and decided to freak out. I am planning on replacing the oil in the diffs and TC.
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- #27
Fired ‘er up this morning. No codes. Dash lights gone. The PO was emphatic that he never took it off road and “never even used the 4wd”, lol. I’m thinking the L4 and CDL actuators just haven’t been exercised in years. I want to drain and refill the transfer case before starting to exercise those actuators on a regular basis. I have several other items to check off the list, the most pressing being
• JB weld the rediator
• new battery terminal rings (might go with blocks, although Slee and SDHQ seem ridiculously expensive for my needs)
• undercoat with Amsoil HD Metal Protector
• and of course, drain/refill diffs and TC
And did I mention how awesome these brakes are now?
• JB weld the rediator
• new battery terminal rings (might go with blocks, although Slee and SDHQ seem ridiculously expensive for my needs)
• undercoat with Amsoil HD Metal Protector
• and of course, drain/refill diffs and TC
And did I mention how awesome these brakes are now?
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- #28
Got some updates here. I drained and filled both diffs and the TC with Valvoline 75w90. Had to go to two different Napa stores to get the requisite 8qt. The old fluid was very dark, like maple syrup. I don’t see anything specifically mentioned about the diffs or TC in the carfax maintenance history, so I’m assuming it has been there for 150k miles.
Upon refilling the TC, my truck shifts into and out of low range with ease. It’s immediate, it works every time, and I don’t get any dash lights or “check VSC system” messages. Amazing what new oil will do. The CDL will engage in H4 and L4, but when I disengage it, it flashes on the dash and is unavailable until I turn the truck off and back on again. I’m just going to keep exercising that actuator. Hoping that it gets to the point where it will disengage without fuss, and I can just exercise it once a month.
Next up is AHC flush and new battery terminals.
Upon refilling the TC, my truck shifts into and out of low range with ease. It’s immediate, it works every time, and I don’t get any dash lights or “check VSC system” messages. Amazing what new oil will do. The CDL will engage in H4 and L4, but when I disengage it, it flashes on the dash and is unavailable until I turn the truck off and back on again. I’m just going to keep exercising that actuator. Hoping that it gets to the point where it will disengage without fuss, and I can just exercise it once a month.
Next up is AHC flush and new battery terminals.
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- #29
Just ordered some rear hatch supports. My liftgate opens somewhat slowly and doesn’t make it the last couple inches. I have a powered liftgate, and my ‘09 LX was built in 11/08, so the part numbers I used are:
68950-69150
68960-69065
The part numbers are different for May ‘09 LXs and newer. I am hoping I don’t need to replace the motor as well!
68950-69150
68960-69065
The part numbers are different for May ‘09 LXs and newer. I am hoping I don’t need to replace the motor as well!
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- #30
Installed the battery terminal kit from SDHQ…what are y’all using to cover the positive terminal? I don’t like how both of these are exposed. It’s odd to me the kit didn’t come with something that covers the positive terminal.
- Thread starter
- #32
Truck is running great. I’ve had these massive piles of parts to do some PM with and still haven’t put them in. Aside from JB Welding a faint stress crack in the radiator before it had a chance to start seeping, nothing has needed my attention aside from a horn that stopped working. The truck runs great, and free time has been scarce. But we’re planning on a road trip this summer, so I want to get the radiator job out of the way and new globes installed with an AHC flush.
I have all these parts listed below for the two jobs. Anything else you’d add?
Radiator job part numbers:
• 16400-50384: Radiator (latest iteration that finally fixed the weak point issue at the badge)
• 16031-0S010: Water Inlet Sub-Assembly, With Thermostat
• 16100-09491: Engine Water Pump w/ gasket
• 16620-0S012: Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner
• 16603-38012: Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley
• 90916-A2033: Serpentine Belt
• 16380-0S010: Fluid Coupling Bracket
• 16571-38080, 16572-38131: Radiator Coolant Hoses
AHC globe replacement part numbers:
• 08886-01805: Suspension Fluid (2.5 liter can x 3)
• 49141-60020, 49151-60020: (2 each) TOYOTA SUSPENSION ACCUMULATOR SET for LX570, URJ200
• 49156-60030: (x 4) new O-rings for the accumulators (called “Ring Suspension Control backup”)
We’ve got 7k miles on the new Duratrac RTs. I did one 5-tire rotation @ 4k miles. They’re a bit louder on the highway than the Defenders they replaced, but still very quiet. I went 275/06R20 in SL.
Sometimes we put the LX to work. Needed to spread two yards of mulch. Too much to fit in my Tundra’s bed, so we hooked up a utility trailer and got the job done with the LX.
I have all these parts listed below for the two jobs. Anything else you’d add?
Radiator job part numbers:
• 16400-50384: Radiator (latest iteration that finally fixed the weak point issue at the badge)
• 16031-0S010: Water Inlet Sub-Assembly, With Thermostat
• 16100-09491: Engine Water Pump w/ gasket
• 16620-0S012: Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner
• 16603-38012: Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley
• 90916-A2033: Serpentine Belt
• 16380-0S010: Fluid Coupling Bracket
• 16571-38080, 16572-38131: Radiator Coolant Hoses
AHC globe replacement part numbers:
• 08886-01805: Suspension Fluid (2.5 liter can x 3)
• 49141-60020, 49151-60020: (2 each) TOYOTA SUSPENSION ACCUMULATOR SET for LX570, URJ200
• 49156-60030: (x 4) new O-rings for the accumulators (called “Ring Suspension Control backup”)
We’ve got 7k miles on the new Duratrac RTs. I did one 5-tire rotation @ 4k miles. They’re a bit louder on the highway than the Defenders they replaced, but still very quiet. I went 275/06R20 in SL.
Sometimes we put the LX to work. Needed to spread two yards of mulch. Too much to fit in my Tundra’s bed, so we hooked up a utility trailer and got the job done with the LX.
- Thread starter
- #33
**RADIATOR SWAP WRITE-UP**
(OEM part numbers are just above in post #32)
Finished the radiator job. At 176,200 miles. Bought the truck at 149k, started reading this forum, realized there’s a design flaw with the radiator, and ran out to check mine. Sure enough, I had the crack. It hadn’t started leaking, but we take long road trips a few times a year, so I put some JB Weld on it and let it run for about 25k miles.
Until now.
This job is not that hard. I got hung up in a couple spots. Here is what I did:
1. Remove the covers and all three front skids (L, R, and center)
2. Use some handy hose clamp pliers to remove the upper and lower hoses (have a bucket ready). Seriously, those pliers are clutch. You’ll be dealing with a lot of hose clamps on this job.
3. There are two small 10mm bolts on the passenger side of the fan shroud. Remove them. Also, disengage the plastic clamp holding a hose to the fan shroud. Try not to break it. If yours doesn’t have this, carry on. Next for the shroud, there are two 12mm bolts at the top corners holding it in place. Remove them.
4. Now, remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the fan to the pulley. No pry bar needed if you don’t lock back your tensioner yet.
5. After steps 3 and 4, your fan shroud and fan can come out all at once.
6. There are 4 12mm radiator bolts accessible from the front. The upper passenger bolt is the easiest to get to. The upper driver side bolt is behind a plastic piece you’ll need to remove. It takes those plastic screw fasteners. For the lower bolts, you’ll need a few extensions and maybe a telescoping magnet tool:
View through the grill of the driver’s side lower bolt:
7. Once those bolts are out, the entire radiator lifts straight up and out. Now that the radiator is out of the way, you have a relative truckload of room to work in. I decided to use this time (like many on this forum) to replace a few other things:
• water pump and gasket
• thermostat
• fan pulley bracket
• tensioner pulley
• idler pulley
• upper and lower radiator hoses
• serpentine belt
8. Now, from below, get a 14mm socket and a large breaker bar (I used my torque wrench) on the tensioner pulley bolt and turn left as if to loosen it. This will take the tension off the internal spring. You can use a 4mm or 5mm Allen wrench to “lock it back” in place. You’ll see the hole. My idler pulley looked like, yes, I should replace it. Here it is locked back:
The other bolt is 12mm. That one is easy. The one that gives people grief is the 6mm hex key bolt. Shoot it with some PB Blaster. Wait a few minutes. Shoot it again. You don’t have to try to break this free with a little 6mm wrench. You can also try a ratchet or bar with a T40 bit or an Allen wrench bit. Use a metal pick or nail to scrape the hex head out so your tool can seat properly. I used an 6mm Allen wrench bit for a 1/2” drive. PRO TIP: put the bit on a small extension, insert it into the bolt, and give it a couple firm but gentle taps with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet. This will ensure the bit is seated in the bolt head. Mine came right out following the above steps.
Here were my options for this step. The T40 looks about ruined (I used it before the 2nd blast of PB). The Allen bit at bottom did the trick for me:
9. Now, it’s time to remove your belt. It just comes right off. Easy. This one looks to be in great shape. Also, aftermarket.
10. Install the new tensioner. 12mm bolt and hex key go back in. No anti-seize or loctite needed. 17 ft lbs on the 12mm. I just went good and tight on both without overdoing it.
To be continued…
(OEM part numbers are just above in post #32)
Finished the radiator job. At 176,200 miles. Bought the truck at 149k, started reading this forum, realized there’s a design flaw with the radiator, and ran out to check mine. Sure enough, I had the crack. It hadn’t started leaking, but we take long road trips a few times a year, so I put some JB Weld on it and let it run for about 25k miles.
Until now.
This job is not that hard. I got hung up in a couple spots. Here is what I did:
1. Remove the covers and all three front skids (L, R, and center)
2. Use some handy hose clamp pliers to remove the upper and lower hoses (have a bucket ready). Seriously, those pliers are clutch. You’ll be dealing with a lot of hose clamps on this job.
3. There are two small 10mm bolts on the passenger side of the fan shroud. Remove them. Also, disengage the plastic clamp holding a hose to the fan shroud. Try not to break it. If yours doesn’t have this, carry on. Next for the shroud, there are two 12mm bolts at the top corners holding it in place. Remove them.
4. Now, remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the fan to the pulley. No pry bar needed if you don’t lock back your tensioner yet.
5. After steps 3 and 4, your fan shroud and fan can come out all at once.
6. There are 4 12mm radiator bolts accessible from the front. The upper passenger bolt is the easiest to get to. The upper driver side bolt is behind a plastic piece you’ll need to remove. It takes those plastic screw fasteners. For the lower bolts, you’ll need a few extensions and maybe a telescoping magnet tool:
View through the grill of the driver’s side lower bolt:
7. Once those bolts are out, the entire radiator lifts straight up and out. Now that the radiator is out of the way, you have a relative truckload of room to work in. I decided to use this time (like many on this forum) to replace a few other things:
• water pump and gasket
• thermostat
• fan pulley bracket
• tensioner pulley
• idler pulley
• upper and lower radiator hoses
• serpentine belt
8. Now, from below, get a 14mm socket and a large breaker bar (I used my torque wrench) on the tensioner pulley bolt and turn left as if to loosen it. This will take the tension off the internal spring. You can use a 4mm or 5mm Allen wrench to “lock it back” in place. You’ll see the hole. My idler pulley looked like, yes, I should replace it. Here it is locked back:
The other bolt is 12mm. That one is easy. The one that gives people grief is the 6mm hex key bolt. Shoot it with some PB Blaster. Wait a few minutes. Shoot it again. You don’t have to try to break this free with a little 6mm wrench. You can also try a ratchet or bar with a T40 bit or an Allen wrench bit. Use a metal pick or nail to scrape the hex head out so your tool can seat properly. I used an 6mm Allen wrench bit for a 1/2” drive. PRO TIP: put the bit on a small extension, insert it into the bolt, and give it a couple firm but gentle taps with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet. This will ensure the bit is seated in the bolt head. Mine came right out following the above steps.
Here were my options for this step. The T40 looks about ruined (I used it before the 2nd blast of PB). The Allen bit at bottom did the trick for me:
9. Now, it’s time to remove your belt. It just comes right off. Easy. This one looks to be in great shape. Also, aftermarket.
10. Install the new tensioner. 12mm bolt and hex key go back in. No anti-seize or loctite needed. 17 ft lbs on the 12mm. I just went good and tight on both without overdoing it.
To be continued…
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #34
Now that the radiator is out, and your belt is off, and you’ve replaced the tensioner, it’s time to replace the other parts on the front of the engine. A couple of these are hard to get to, but that’s ok.
Next up is the idler pulley. This one is ultra easy. By the way, if you want to clean some of these surfaces, feel free. Just don’t scrub them and score them up so much that you start leaking coolant or something. I read that 14mm bolts take 35 ft lbs, and 12mm bolts take 17 ft lbs on the front of this engine.
Next up is the idler pulley. This one is ultra easy. By the way, if you want to clean some of these surfaces, feel free. Just don’t scrub them and score them up so much that you start leaking coolant or something. I read that 14mm bolts take 35 ft lbs, and 12mm bolts take 17 ft lbs on the front of this engine.
- Thread starter
- #35
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