mattressking
10 digits to freedom
when you are rebuilding the carb - how are you confirming each item is correct, nothing is missing or damaged?
Aisin carburetor idle circuit routing (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cbmontgo
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Your reply on base timing should be throwing red flags. There is something fundamentally wrong with the idea that it runs better at 3 degrees than 7
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Basically like for like replacement! I cannot say that my mastery of all the “tab bending” steps of the Chilton carburetor setup is that strong though.
Give me more. I’m an electrician by trade, so engine work is more like a hobby for me. Fortunately my FJ40 is not my Daily Driver!
There is another guy with carb issues, he posted a vid about the stumble issue - to me he is expecting cdi ignition and electronic fuel injection throttle response from a 50 year old carb design being sparked by breaker points.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Am I correct that your rig ran really good before you pulled the carb? Or did it start running poorly as soon as you got it to Florida and as a result you did a carb rebuild?
try shining a light into carb while the rig is running at idle. Can you see fuel coming from the passenger side nozzle?
try shining a light into carb while the rig is running at idle. Can you see fuel coming from the passenger side nozzle?
Great question. It ran fine in Colorado at 5-8000 ft elevation. When I first ran it here (as best I remember…it was four yrs ago) there was a heavy rich exhaust smell. I decided that this MUST BE because it was jetted wrong. I had to let her sit until I could research the subject. I finally replaced the jets, and began to have idle issues, and also the engine would continue to run after I turned it off. Not really run, but “diesel” is what I’ve heard it called. I found and fixed a vacuum leak at the carb mounting nut on one very inaccessible corner (I have all that CA emissions control stuff between the valve cover and the carb). This made things better. The engine now stops when I turn it off. It starts with the choke. It runs (roughly) with a little choke applied.
One more remembrance from that first attempt to get this machine running. And I hope that this doesn’t make you erase my name from your account! Lol.
When I installed the carb kit I bought from the LC parts place in Utah, I used the Haynes manual I have to adjust the float level, etc. everything was already really close, so I didn’t do much. When the Haynes manual got to the last few steps of adjusting tangs and bending tabs, I found the instructions pretty unintelligible, so I left everything As Is.
When I installed the carburetor, the Idle Speed Screw did not make contact with the tab it’s supposed to press against, so I installed a little longer screw (with a spring around it like the original) and it works. But that little trivia has always nagged me a little that maybe I caused that issue somehow during the rebuild.
I THINK that this is my complete confession. Bless me father for I have sinned! I should’ve just rolled down the window and dealt with the stink.
One more remembrance from that first attempt to get this machine running. And I hope that this doesn’t make you erase my name from your account! Lol.
When I installed the carb kit I bought from the LC parts place in Utah, I used the Haynes manual I have to adjust the float level, etc. everything was already really close, so I didn’t do much. When the Haynes manual got to the last few steps of adjusting tangs and bending tabs, I found the instructions pretty unintelligible, so I left everything As Is.
When I installed the carburetor, the Idle Speed Screw did not make contact with the tab it’s supposed to press against, so I installed a little longer screw (with a spring around it like the original) and it works. But that little trivia has always nagged me a little that maybe I caused that issue somehow during the rebuild.
I THINK that this is my complete confession. Bless me father for I have sinned! I should’ve just rolled down the window and dealt with the stink.
And I will look down the carb throat today to look for gas. If it stops raining.
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My hunch is the carburetor is the victim, not the culprit, and that you have a distributor problem. More specifically a failing distributor.
Interesting! How can I confirm this? Honestly, I have never seen a cleaner carb in my life! Ive sprayed almost a full can of carb cleaner around the engine bay and I haven’t detected a single vacuum leak! I’ve run out of ideas!!
The dizzy is one thing I have not touched on this rig. It was upgraded by the first owner; I’m the 3rd owner. Nice to not have points to fool with.
Can you recommend the best distributor for a F155 engine, bone stock built in late 1972, sold as a 1973? Also have you had good results from a vendor?
You should see if your electronic ignition is compatible with replacement distributors. Does your carburetor have a vacuum advance port? The port usually isn't on a '72 USA-carburetor. I'm using this OEM 2F Distributor for '75 and Earlier Land Cruiser FJ40 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-2f-distributor-for-75-and-earlier-land-cruiser-fj40 However, I have an igniter and external resistors on my coil, so electronic ignition isn't even something that I'd consider. If push came to shove, I'd run straight points before introducing aftermarket parts, into the equation. The best distributor is the one that came with the motor, provided that it has been proven service-worthy.
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In case you haven’t noticed, I am a vendor here. And I offer replacement stock distributors. Per my signature line, I do my business by telephone. Number is in my avatar and linked in my signature line.
And, I port carburetor bases for vacuum advance.
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Yes, my distributor does have a vacuum advance port. I believe that the electronic module inside the dizzy is a Pertronix.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
A few years ago, Mark supplied me with an OEM Distributor (PN#19100-61180) that he outfitted with a PerTronix ignition. It has performed flawlessly. I strongly encourage you to pick up the phone and give Mark a ring. He is extremely knowledgeable and quite helpful.In case you haven’t noticed, I am a vendor here. And I offer replacement stock distributors. Per my signature line, I do my business by telephone. Number is in my avatar and linked in my signature line.
And, I port carburetor bases for vacuum advance.
This suggests to me that the throttle is not closing all the way. Perhaps the linkage ( cable ?) is hung up somewhere. I might look into making sure it does close all the way and you can make the original screw work as it should, Do you have a good return spring?
Yes, it does have a cable from the pedal. It connects to the carb throttle through a “jackscrew” apparatus to shorten/lengthen the cable. I fiddled with this gizmo to try to get the Idle Speed Screw to make contact, but no luck. So I finally went to Ace Hdwe and found a screw about 1/4” longer.
Oh and it had NO return spring at all, but it does now!
And one more thing…. thank you so much for your ideas!! I’m almost bald so I can’t afford to pull out what’s left of my skimpy hair!!!
Seriously, your collective ideas are very very helpful!
