Is it possible to order a base plate with the printed caps and also the side panel shelves to cover those openings? I have no need for a drawer system, or a 3rd row, so just looking to gain usable storage but I want it to look clean.
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That all makes sense and I appreciate the assistance. That'll be easy to remedy at this point. The instructions do leave room for interpretation and more photos would be helpful. The photo of the front anchor bar doesn't appear to be cut out for the plate, so I assumed those must be underneath.The intent is for that front edge of the black floor to rest on *top* of the machined anchor bar. It's a slight incline/bend for the floor, but that's intentional. Keeping things in tension avoids rattles and squeaks. I'm not sure if that will be problematic upside down like your photo, but my intent with that feature was to have the HDPE on top of the aluminum.
Annoyingly I don't seem to have a single picture showing the aluminum and HDPE together.
Either way should work fine.
Also note, those rear anchor bar bolts in the center will have to come back out once you get the system frame in place so that you can install the printed center rail brace.
Trim piece: Yes, that will likely get new scratches of its own soon enough.
Final tip of the night: leave your side wall OEM panel things in place before you put the system in. Our cargo divider shelves are made to sit right on top of the OEM shelves and putting the OEM shelves in place after the system frame is in place is more difficult than it needs to be.
You will be happy with them. Not nearly the quality of Toyota plastic but they fill a big pocket of empty ugly.Looks good. I emailed them a few days ago asking about getting a set of the end caps since they are not on their site. Still waiting to hear back. Looking forward to getting this project finished up.
Washingtontaco:You will be happy with then. Not nearly the quality of Toyota plastic but they fill a big pocket of empty ugly.
I don't have the ADGU drawer system. I have a Truckvault. It just so happens that caps fit with the Truckvault, no my Truckvault doesn't rattle. The caps are attached with 3M VHBT.Washingtontaco:
Some questions, if you don’t mind:
Are you happy with the ADGU setup - any regrets?
Does any part of it rattle (they advertise “no rattles” I believe).
The end caps are not provided by ADGU in black? (they look like they are unfinished from a color standpoint)
How are the end caps attached?
Thanks.
I don't have the ADGU drawer system. I have a Truckvault. It just so happens that caps fit with the Truckvault, no my Truckvault doesn't rattle. The caps are attached with 3M VHBT.
Truckvault starts here:
Builds - 2018 Premium 460 build
I have eyed Truckvault for a very long time. I am one that usually builds my own storage with pretty good results. I just never get it to the level of quality that I wanted. So with this possible being the last truck I build I wanted what I felt was best for me. Truckvault is a Washington based...forum.ih8mud.com
I haven't driven since I installed the drawers. I had a trip planned this weekend, but we're expecting another atmospheric river, so I'm looking for an alternate/dryer location. I'll post back once I do a shake down, and let you know about rattles.Okay - thanks. I should have directed my questions to Sheptastic.
I haven't driven since I installed the drawers. I had a trip planned this weekend, but we're expecting another atmospheric river, so I'm looking for an alternate/dryer location. I'll post back once I do a shake down, and let you know about rattles.
The end caps are black. They come as raw 3D printed parts. There are a couple sharp corners and the print is a bit rough, so I did a dry sanding with 220. That's why mine are lighter in color than WashingtonTaco's. I've heard there have been issues getting paint to take evenly with these parts specifically. I'm hoping it's the general issue that most 3D printed parts have, where they absorb paint unevenly due to the printing process. I'm going to start with a couple coats of filler primer before the finish paint. I may use some texture as well. They come with some double sided tape to stick the caps to the OEM trim.
I took a quick trip around the neighborhood a couple days ago - potholes and a block of gravel. My wife drove about 200 miles yesterday - mostly pavement, a bit of gravel, bridges, etc. So far, we've heard no noise at all from the drawers. I'll post back if that changes over time or after we bounce it around a bit more. For now, I wouldn't know they're back there from a noise perspective.Thank you sheptastic.
Will await your trip report.
Nice thing about the GX is that there aren't any turnbuckles. Everything is mounted similar to the 3rd row with bolts and thread locker. They're easy to access, so keeping them tight will be easy, if/when that becomes necessary. The rest of the drawer system is pretty accessible as well. I think I'd just have to remove 4 screws to pull the drawers and I'd have access to retighten anything.You may also want to recheck your attachment points in case there's been any settling from initial install.
Clean install. You may want to rethink powering something like a fridge off the start battery (always on circuit).We had a fun install a while back that we are just now posting here on 'Mud! This customer ended up with a full Richlite surface Premier Package with sleeper, dual slide out tables and a fun new addition for us here at Air Down Gear Up. We added a Blue Sea 4366 accessory panel (link below) to the under-wing area of our system. This was set up with the intent of powering a Fridge/Battery as well as any other accessories.
To power this, we used the connector found in this thread (big shout out to our customer for pointing this out to us, what a great find!) which allows you to utilize the 20A, always-on circuit intended for use with the powered 3rd row in a GX460. We ordered a longer length of lead wire and tied that into the Blue Sea panel. Workmanship was excellent and the connector worked exactly as expected. It was great not having to cut into the factory wiring harness; the 'plug and play' provided by the pre-wired connector makes this a very robust option.
You'll notice in the pictures that the panel is set back from the face of the drawers by several inches, which is very much on purpose. You have to actually plug things into this panel! We wanted there to be enough room to allow cables to be plugged in and gently run to the various intended accessories. If the panel was flush with the drawers, there wouldn't be enough room for the cables to come out of the plugs without hitting the door.
We liked this set up so much that moving forward this will be standard for all of our 'dedicated kitchen' systems. This panel/power source can currently be added to any GX460 system.
3rd Row Seats Power Tap without cutting or splicing OE harness
Hello Folks, I have found a way to harness the 2 3rd row seats power circuits that are fused at 30A directly from the battery and always on without messing with OE harness. The OE wiring are not really rated for 30A but it can be safely used for around 20A of constant use and a spike within...forum.ih8mud.com
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This is a great point. This customer was powering a Dometic battery and not the fridge itself, but regardless you'd want to ensure whatever device is plugged into that power tap doesn't become a significant parasitic drain.Clean install. You may want to rethink powering something like a fridge off the start battery (always on circuit).