3rd Row Seats Power Tap without cutting or splicing OE harness

Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
127
Location
Raleigh, NC
Hello Folks,

I have found a way to harness the 2 3rd row seats power circuits that are fused at 30A directly from the battery and always on without messing with OE harness. The OE wiring are not really rated for 30A but it can be safely used for around 20A of constant use and a spike within 30A. The GX460 are the worst in terms of providing power outlets to the rear cargo are and with this connector you can get up to 40A to power anything you would like (1 connector for each side merged together). This is only applicable to GX460s with powered 3rd row seats
  • These connectors can be used to power a fridge, USB outlets, Cig, outlets, and pretty much anything shy of a 1000W inverter.
  • Because these circuits are directly connected to the battery, you can add an appropriately sized solar charger.
  • You do not need to remove your seats to use these connectors.
  • They come with 3ft lead wires, if you need longer, I can do longer ones per special order.

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Price is $35 per connector or 2 for $60 shipped to your door anywhere in the Continental US. if outside the Cont. US, we can discuss further.

Here is a video that I made recently for the install (First video ever so not that great lol):



Please let me know if you have any questions or would like to order 1 or 2.
Thanks and Cheers!

Update: SOLD OUT of T-Harness style!!!!

By popular demand, I will now be offering a T-Style Harness to maintain full functionality of the 3rd row seats while utilizing the circuit for an unlimited 12v possibilities.

This harness is made with 14 AWG for the power wires and 20 AWG for signal wires ( larger than OE harness for durability).

All OEM TOYOTA connectors and terminals.

The 3 ft. external power leads are soldered and heat shrunk for best strength and conductivity.

The price is $70 shipped to your door anywhere in the continental US. Anywhere else, we can figure something out.

You can message me on here or you can contact me via email: idagher0600@gmail.com

Please let me know if you have any questions or would like to order.

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Disclaimer: Please use at your own risk.
 
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r2m

Richard
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
4,937
Location
San Clemente, CA
Hello Folks,

I have found a way to harness the 2 3rd row seats power circuits that are fused at 30A directly from the battery and always on without messing with OE harness. The OE wiring are not really rated for 30A but it can be safely used for around 20A of constant use and a spike within 30A. The GX460 are the worst in terms of providing power outlets to the rear cargo are and with this connector you can get up to 40A to power anything you would like (1 connector for each side merged together). This is only applicable to GX460s with powered 3rd row seats
  • These connectors can be used to power a fridge, USB outlets, Cig, outlets, and pretty much anything shy of a 1000W inverter.
  • Because these circuits are directly connected to the battery, you can add an appropriately sized solar charger.
  • You do not need to remove your seats to use these connectors.
  • They come with 3ft lead wires, if you need longer, I can do longer ones per special order.

View attachment 2582273View attachment 2582274

Price is $30 per connector or 2 for $50 shipped to your door anywhere in the Continental US. if outside the Cont. US, we can discuss further.

Here is a video that I made recently for the install (First video ever so not that great lol):



Please let me know if you have any questions or would like to order 1 or 2.
Thanks and Cheers!



Disclaimer: Please use at your own risk.

Absolutely agree about the lack of power ports throughout the entire vehicle. Hence I've added two USB port socket in the middle rear of the front seat arm rest for passengers in the second row and a power panel with one 12 VDC socket and two more USB ports along with a volt meter in the very rear on the little access hatch door to the jack.
If interested you can see how and where here: Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/r2m-2013-gx460-overland-build.1104719/page-2
Starting at post #40.
 
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
127
Location
Raleigh, NC
Absolutely agree about the lack of power ports throughout the entire vehicle. Hence I've added two USB port socket in the middle rear of the front seat arm rest for passengers in the second row and a power panel with one 12 VDC socket and two more USB ports along with a volt meter in the very rear on the little access hatch door to the jack.
If interested you can see how and where here: Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/r2m-2013-gx460-overland-build.1104719/page-2
Starting at post #40.
I have a vision for power outlets in the GX that I am going to do soon. as for the rear cargo area, I will be using the cubby above the access hatch for the jack to take in consideration adding drawers and boxes would block access to that low spot. I am also going to make an ABS plate that will cover the tiny storage under the center dash. it will have a Voltmeter, high powered USBs, Cig outlet, and an ethernet pass through for my Midland MXT275 GMRS radio. I will be adding the USB/Cig outlets for the second row as well.
 

r2m

Richard
Joined
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Messages
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Location
San Clemente, CA
I'd like to see how your center console comes out! 👍
 
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Colorado Springs
Very cool man, it's a simple connection but helps make everything easily reversible when the time comes. Thanks for doing the work on these.

I just removed my third and am working up a setup idea back there, power would definitely come in handy. How do I order?
 
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Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
127
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Raleigh, NC
Very cool man, it's a simple connection but helps make everything easily reversible when the time comes. Thanks for doing the work on these.

I just removed my third and am working up a setup idea back there, power would definitely come in handy. How do I order?
PM'd
 
Joined
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California, USA
I absolutely love this... the stock power outlet in the cargo area is insulting. Plus it looks like this would be a no-brainer for people removing their 3rd row anyway.

Interested in ordering one too. Where did you come up with the 20A current limit?
 
Joined
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Messages
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I absolutely love this... the stock power outlet in the cargo area is insulting. Plus it looks like this would be a no-brainer for people removing their 3rd row anyway.

Interested in ordering one too. Where did you come up with the 20A current limit?
That was my thought process for when removing the 3rd row seats.
I inspected the power wires coming into the connectors and with consideration to the length from the fuse box, 20 Amp is a safe rating for constant use especially with the vehicle running ( when running voltage gets higher and amperage draw get lower).
 
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Bay Area, CA
Very cool. What is the voltage difference between the direct terminal battery voltage and the voltage measured at the connector in back? That will give an idea of how robust the wires are to the back. A lot of accessories are quite voltage sensitive and some like my fridge cutoff at certain voltage ranges not to drain the battery so knowing that change would be great.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Very cool. What is the voltage difference between the direct terminal battery voltage and the voltage measured at the connector in back? That will give an idea of how robust the wires are to the back. A lot of accessories are quite voltage sensitive and some like my fridge cutoff at certain voltage ranges not to drain the battery so knowing that change would be great.
Great point Posersurfer!

I just wanted to add this information in general.

FYI: 1. The vehicle was off and my battery is a Lexus OEM that is more than 4 years old.
2. This test was using only one connector. If using the 2 connectors, there would be double the connectivity and voltage drop will be greatly reduced, even though it wasn't much to begin with!

When it comes to voltage even 1 strand connecting the 2 should give the same voltage (like a fuse) and it was exactly that (The USB voltmeter does round up or down).

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When a load applied that pulls a certain amount of Amps, resistance of the conductor rises creating the voltage drop across the conductor. And just like water pipes In this situation, the larger the pipe the better flow and less restrictions. In this situation I applies a 2 A load in the shape of an LED pod. there was almost no drop at all. Then I added about 7 A load where I noticed about 0.13 voltage drop. (Keep in mind there are tolerance errors in any Voltmeter and Multimeter).
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Joined
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Bay Area, CA
Thanks! That’s a respectable drop @ 7 amps for a ~10 foot run. Must be 14 gauge or larger. 12 gauge wire would yield in the ballpark of 0.35 volt drop at 20 amp draw. Your seat harness is going to be useful to a lot of folks. It would be perfect if it were a pass through connector so it could also power seats if still in place.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Raleigh, NC
Thanks! That’s a respectable drop @ 7 amps for a ~10 foot run. Must be 14 gauge or larger. 12 gauge wire would yield in the ballpark of 0.35 volt drop at 20 amp draw. Your seat harness is going to be useful to a lot of folks. It would be perfect if it were a pass through connector so it could also power seats if still in place.
It is 14 gauge. And if 2 connectors are used, it would be equivalent to somewhere between 10 and 12 gauge connection. I have had some requests for a T-harness pass through style but there are delays in getting the female side connector. The T-harness will require connecting all 12 power and signal wires instead of 2 power wires so it will take a decent time longer to make.
 
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Messages
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It is 14 gauge. And if 2 connectors are used, it would be equivalent to somewhere between 10 and 12 gauge connection. I have had some requests for a T-harness pass through style but there are delays in getting the female side connector. The T-harness will require connecting all 12 power and signal wires instead of 2 power wires so it will take a decent time longer to make.this is great info.
 
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Messages
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Thanks for all the great info. I’d be interested in the T-type pass through and would even remove the existing wiring to move that way. We are trying to keep weight low and keep wiring simple and that would be perfect. I have three kids so I need to keep those rear seats functional.
 
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A typical
I don’t have a fridge, but it is in my plans. Can anybody tell me if a typical 55 qt fridge could run off 20 amps?
A typical 55 quart fridge can run on 20 amps. Our 53 quart Iceco pulls around 100 watts on startup for just a second and then typically is pulling 40-60 watts when cycling on.
 

r2m

Richard
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
4,937
Location
San Clemente, CA
I'd suggest finding the fridge you want and look at the manufacturers specs. They will have what the power will be.
Remember that a refrigerator is ONLY on when it reaches a preset high temperature (which you set). It is not on ALL the time, so don't worry about whatever you see for power usage, that it will be running all the time. In cold climates it may only come on a couple of short times a day, depending up how warm you keep the cab of your rig. Also, fridges generally will have a startup power surge, so whatever power they use, they will draw a little more just when stating up.
 

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