- Thread starter
- #101
I'm ashamed to say I probably went 5k since the last oil change....I never let it get low though but I guess when the cooling functionality goes away that doesn't much matter. Live and learn!
Air cleaner blew up, won't start now. Oh god...
- Thread starter LCtygrys
- Start date
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That doesn't make sense unless something else is wrong (like previous owner really abused it) or somehow you were using crap oil. On second thought, if you use the lc sparingly and the oil had gotten old, like 3+ years and contaminated, or you drive the truck constantly like you stole it, I could see the oil breaking down like that. But standard driving with even a generic wally world oil wouldn't fail that badly at 5k miles. I know most of us don't trust to go the recommended 5000 or 7500 OEM recommendation, but today's oils really can handle those intervals unless the vehicle is used in an extreme way.
End result doesn't change and you still had a catastrophic failure, but 5k miles on some oil should not have done that.
End result doesn't change and you still had a catastrophic failure, but 5k miles on some oil should not have done that.
^Agreed. Unless continuous long intervals over the life of the truck.
@LCtygrys - thanks for keeping us updated on your story. Really quite interesting. I am sorry for your troubles, but at least we are all learning.
5k miles between changes is nothing at all - assuming reasonable use of the accelerator and passage of calendar time. Remember there are 7+ quarts of oil in these engines. Also I doubt that all those "world spec" cruisers we see driving around in the desert with guns sticking out of them are not getting oil changes that regularly.
It would be interesting to dissect the oil filter and drop the oil pan and look at the magnets to get a better idea - and even Blackstone analysis - but I'd totally understand if you just want to get your new engine in and move on and not look back!
5k miles between changes is nothing at all - assuming reasonable use of the accelerator and passage of calendar time. Remember there are 7+ quarts of oil in these engines. Also I doubt that all those "world spec" cruisers we see driving around in the desert with guns sticking out of them are not getting oil changes that regularly.
It would be interesting to dissect the oil filter and drop the oil pan and look at the magnets to get a better idea - and even Blackstone analysis - but I'd totally understand if you just want to get your new engine in and move on and not look back!
- Thread starter
- #105
Ok so the latest is the old is out and the new is going in. Mech says he doesn't trust using the old oil pump so that needs to be replaced. He said he ordered the oli filter from Advance Auto Parts but didn't pick it up yet.
Also he can't find the two sensors under the timing cover that got crushed by the mayhem.
Also need the timing belt cover and the air box/ air filter.
Anyone have a line on those parts in decent shape? Please?
Probably more to follow..
Thanks in advance!
pm me if you can
Also he can't find the two sensors under the timing cover that got crushed by the mayhem.
Also need the timing belt cover and the air box/ air filter.
Anyone have a line on those parts in decent shape? Please?
Probably more to follow..
Thanks in advance!
pm me if you can
I still have that overheated long block. Send me a list of what you need and I'll get you some numbers.
@scottryana - So what's the primary advantage of "sintered and forged" rods?
Edit: Happened to find this slide on Asahi's acquisition of Metaldyne.
primary advantages are:
better/stronger than cast
cheaper than forged
less waste
Toyota doesn't use a fractured split rod in the UZ series of engines so the benefits that go along with it do not apply.
better/stronger than cast
cheaper than forged
less waste
Toyota doesn't use a fractured split rod in the UZ series of engines so the benefits that go along with it do not apply.
Thanks for giving me insomnia now. I haven't done a TB change yet (190,000 miles so far) and since I had a 1998 pre-vvti I assumed, non interference and thought I could get away with it till I hit 200,000. Now I'm second guessing that gamble. I suppose when I do the TB, I'll replace pulleys and tensioners too. Sheesh. So sorry. You're a good sport about it though.
What was the oil level in the motor when it died?
I'm not sure of the connection between your insomnia and this failure? This doesn't "appear" to be driven by a TB failure, no?
- Thread starter
- #112
Oil was full. Changed within 5k but the mech said it was black and gooey coming out if the oil pan.
Did you personally change the oil or did a shop change the oil? Perhaps a shop said they changed the oil but didn't actually change it.
Why would you not change your timing belt? You risk being stranded, having to pay a massive tow bill, and paying for TB on top of that. Part of responsible ownership of a vehicle is maintaining it, driving anything until it fails is always more expensive than properly maintaining a vehicle.
So, do you know if your reman engine came out of an LC/LX, Tundra, or Sequoia?
IIRC, 5K is the interval recommended in my owner's manual.
- Thread starter
- #117
1) I don't know what the motor came out of.
2) A local oil change chain did the change so I guess I trusted them to do it right
3) The timing belt didn't fail, the lubrication system did causing the cam bearing to seize up and all hell to break loose. The timing belt did howeve get destroyed in the process.
2) A local oil change chain did the change so I guess I trusted them to do it right
3) The timing belt didn't fail, the lubrication system did causing the cam bearing to seize up and all hell to break loose. The timing belt did howeve get destroyed in the process.
Thanks for keeping us updated some more....
Black and gooey doesn't sound good - that sounds like the primary culprit right there. Botched (wrong oil) or "faked" oil change.
Good luck with the new engine. If its any consolation (and NOT to derail the thread), I have been following all those threads about the sintered rods and engine differences, and I am less convinced that there are really any tangible differences between them in the various models. Just my opinion though. I have a hard time accepting that Mr. T would put a "weaker" engine in its Tundra line. Its a huge growth/brand market for Toyota.
Black and gooey doesn't sound good - that sounds like the primary culprit right there. Botched (wrong oil) or "faked" oil change.
Good luck with the new engine. If its any consolation (and NOT to derail the thread), I have been following all those threads about the sintered rods and engine differences, and I am less convinced that there are really any tangible differences between them in the various models. Just my opinion though. I have a hard time accepting that Mr. T would put a "weaker" engine in its Tundra line. Its a huge growth/brand market for Toyota.
