Air cleaner blew up, won't start now. Oh god...

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Ok, so the mechanic has been really busy lately but he said he will be digging into it today. He will also be reading over what has been posted here so please, if you have any specific things to look for, post them. Thanks hive. In the unlikely event I do need a motor I still haven't found a reputable source that everyone can agree on so please keep those coming too!

Ben
 
Latest update:

He pulled off the valve covers and said the cams were both frozen. He's taking more pictures which I will post as they come in. At this point he thinks I will need an engine based on this latest finding but I am not familiar enough with this motor to comment with any credibitly.
I could sure use some suggestions of reputable places to buy a motor in case, and of course any other wisdom is welcome.
 
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Number6 said:
@RND1 I thought something like that was already true. When I was doing my internet/travels research I read where the LC/LX 4.7's were made in Nippon, while the Tundra/Sequoia engines were made down south. There was something about the Nipponese engines having forged conrods while the US ones have cast ones. This was in discussions about supercharging- as well as other areas.

I dunno, is it possible there is a cheaper to build/mass production friendly interference 4.7 built here and a more expensively built/crafted non-interference version made in Japan? Building different engines from the same block has been done before- see Chevy 230/250 I6 vs. Pontiac OHC 6.

I remember the buying advice used to be, if you have a choice between a US-built specimen and a Japanese one, get the one made in Japan....
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IIRC, the US cast connecting rods were the reason why the TRD Supercharger was discontinued by Toyota for the 4.7; they couldn't handle the additional power. The forged rods, in comparison, never had an issue with it. If unfortunately you do need a new engine, I agree with with Number6 in trying to find one made in Japan. They appear to be better made.

Sorry to hear about your engine troubles! Hopefully you won't have to go this route.
 
If your short block is good I can see three ways of going here. One is to buy a used engine, likely the cheapest. The second is to get a reman- pricey but it will have a warranty if you get it from say Jasper or NAPA. The third is- with a good short block- to just redo the top end, valvetrain and head(s) (if needed). #3 won't be the cheapest, but at least you'll have a known quantity- it would be my choice as your mechanic should stand behind the work. Also you may avoid warranty hassles from choosing the most costly #2.
 
Unfortunately, Jasper doesn't reman those engines. I wish they did, because I love their products. I actually saw a reman on rockauto of all places. It was what I'd expect a Jasper reman to cost, at the hefty price of $3300.
 
I can't find a lot of reviews about enginehaus in WA. They have the best prices by far and a decent warranty. They also seem to do a lot of Land Cruisers. Rock Auto is 1k more with a similar warranty. I really want to get one that has been freshly redone by someone who knows and cares. Am I dreaming or what?
 
I would call the guys at enginehaus to see if they're aware of the forged vs cast internals on the LC vs. Tundra respectively. They seem to specialize in Japanese motors.
 
Ok well Enginehaus does not ship anything. Local business only. They also don't answer their phone. So maybe I'll check into RockAuto and their "Famous Brand" motors.. >:-/ Unless of course I get a better suggestion in the meantime from youse guys. Oy...
 
I have a long block with 208k miles that overheated. It was running ok but it had a blown head gasket. If you want I can pull the head/cams off and send em your way. Im not looking to get rich. The shipping would prob be more than what I want for the heads.

I you want to hear it running, click on the link in my sig for the video of the blower I have for sale.

edit- If you want the long block we can arrange that also. Im not sure how much shipping freight would be.
 
So RockAuto sells Famous Brand motors, which are in fact ATK motors. There is not a single positive review about them. Quite the emphatic opposite.
Please don't tell me I need to crawl to the dealer!
 
LCtygrys said:
So RockAuto sells only ATK engines which have nothing but crap reviews online. Not a single good review. Am I stuck going to the dealer for a motor?
Please no...
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Why not get a used long block and have the timing belt, water pump and all that refreshed before installing it?

Dealer is going to be stupid expensive with a short block build. Have you asked for a quote yet? When I worked at Lexus, we never did short block builds unless Lexus was paying for it.
 
Neither the Japanese or American made 2UZ's had "forged" rods. They also didn't have traditional "cast" rods. They use a process called sintered metal forging, where metal powder is compressed with heat.

You are not getting a forged motor in a LC or LX. The crank is a true forging though. But pistons and rods are not.

alexinWC said:
IIRC, the US cast connecting rods were the reason why the TRD Supercharger was discontinued by Toyota for the 4.7; they couldn't handle the additional power. The forged rods, in comparison, never had an issue with it. If unfortunately you do need a new engine, I agree with with Number6 in trying to find one made in Japan. They appear to be better made.

Sorry to hear about your engine troubles! Hopefully you won't have to go this route.
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LCtygrys said:
So RockAuto sells Famous Brand motors, which are in fact ATK motors. There is not a single positive review about them. Quite the emphatic opposite.
Please don't tell me I need to crawl to the dealer!
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I would try to stay local - hopefully your mechanic has some suggestions. How much would it be for him to rebuild your engine vs. sourcing a used one? There seems to be plenty of 4.7L Tundra and Sequoia engines on Ebaymotors if you need to go that route.
 
With all the "debate" over interference and how that shaft broke, I would take the heads off before I commit to a new engine. Your engine has low miles and the bottom ends on these motors are solid. Its a lot less work than putting a new motor in and you will know what you have.
I say this assuming the head failure did not cause any problems with the bottom end. Taking the heads off will answer a lot of questions and possibly save you some money.
 
scottryana said:
Neither the Japanese or American made 2UZ's had "forged" rods. They also didn't have traditional "cast" rods. They use a process called sintered metal forging, where metal powder is compressed with heat.

You are not getting a forged motor in a LC or LX. The crank is a true forging though. But pistons and rods are not.
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My mistake, you are correct. Here is a good thread for reference: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2uz-fe-diffrences.491573/
 
Yeah that is a pretty convoluted thread, but the confusion comes from where Toyota calls a powdered metal rod a "sintered and forged" it is neither cast nor forged. Cast is poured into a mold, forged is a solid block pressed under extreme heat and pressure. Toyota has used powdered metal pressed like a forging. Using powdered metal means less waste, but also much less strength than a true forged rod.

I have had rods from a 2UZ in LC and Tundra as well as 1UZ from SC400 and 3UZ from LS430 and they are all powdered metal rods. In Toyota speak "sintered and forged" but not forged or cast.
 
FWIW, the cross-drilled holes in the end of the camshaft are for oiling of the bearing.
 
So here are more pictures. Not quite the quality he saent me before...
He feels that I went too long between oil changes and an oil journal/gallery/tube got clogged and fried the cam bearings. After a lot of research and soul searching I ordered an engine from GearHeads beacuse they had the best warranty and an A+ BBB rating. Yeah they are also ATK engines (which got some turd reviews elsewhere) but all things considered I feel ok with their policies after talking to them for a while. So it will cost me a total of about $5500 installed but I will have basically a new motor. It will be here Friday and he will be installing it next week. He is estimating 18 hrs in and out.
Wish me luck guys! I really appreciate all your help. I will certainly keep you posted on how it all pans out.

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LCtygrys said:
So here are more pictures. He feels that I went too long between oil changes and an oil journal/gallery/tube got clogged and fried the cam bearings.
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Which begs the question: How often did you change the oil?

Steve
 
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