Aftermarket FJ40 Dash Pad
- Thread starter fjgoober
- Start date
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I've hated the cheesy plastic cover I've had on my 72 dash pad since the day I bought it. It's only one degree better than the cracked original. I've subscribed so I can see how this pans out. If the price is right, I'm in.
High Five! So far, we're a club with two members.
Great!!
Our first meeting is in Kodiak AK.
Be good to go back.. Miss the fish..
Hi Jack over...
Shane
Shane, when were you in Kodiak? I was there in the mid 70's with a green 74 land cruiser. Sure was fun going into Saltry Cove with it. I'm now in Petersburg, AK. Jim
interesting... subscribe.
- Thread starter
- #46
Finished Product
First two files are showing the texturing on top and bottom. I really don't want to remember how many hours of sanding and texturing then more sanding and texturing to get it.
Third file is of the flexibility of the material. However I am pushing very very hard. This stuff is tough. It took me 45 minutes to cut out the hole for the dash light. I used an exacto knife (went through 3 blades), needle nose pliers, side cutters and a screw driver!
Will post a picture of the dash light shortly.
First two files are showing the texturing on top and bottom. I really don't want to remember how many hours of sanding and texturing then more sanding and texturing to get it.
Third file is of the flexibility of the material. However I am pushing very very hard. This stuff is tough. It took me 45 minutes to cut out the hole for the dash light. I used an exacto knife (went through 3 blades), needle nose pliers, side cutters and a screw driver!
Will post a picture of the dash light shortly.
- Thread starter
- #47
Dash Light
Here is a picture of the dash light mounted.
Here is a picture of the dash light mounted.
great job. if I needed one, I would seriously consider one yours. as far as number of cruisers around and the "cruisers on Mud" thread, if everyone is following the thread's original instructions, that is only cruisers that are rolling, or about to be. It doesn't include 40s like mine that are still a ways off from being back on the road. if 40s that are under long term repairs were added, that number would probably increase substantially. and those are probably the ones that need your product the most.
I would be interested in roll bar pads.... But that is probably cause I need just one.
Had my dash pad recovered in marine vinyl. Looks good. That cost $150.00 so I would think a good dash pad, made to last, with quality material would easily move at $225/$250. I would think that would be a "no brainer" IF(?) your buying a new 20 year piece. Just need to get a few units out there for real world testing and integrity.
Just my .02, yes If you get to roll bar. Let us know!!
Had my dash pad recovered in marine vinyl. Looks good. That cost $150.00 so I would think a good dash pad, made to last, with quality material would easily move at $225/$250. I would think that would be a "no brainer" IF(?) your buying a new 20 year piece. Just need to get a few units out there for real world testing and integrity.
Just my .02, yes If you get to roll bar. Let us know!!
Do you know the durometer of the material you're moulding out of?
You have my interest, I have two cruisers so if the price is right..... you have a potential 2 sales on me.
X12 on the roll bar pads. I would be most interested in a new padded dash that also has lockable storage like the Dash box with integrated lights, maybe a slot for a stereo and speakers? I'd definitely pay over $300 for something like that, maybe more if it's plug and play. Look at wagongear's storage panels. Because he has something unique and useful people are willing to pay more, but it's not as fun to pay for a piece they can recover themselves that's not all that useful or exciting.
- Thread starter
- #53
Durometer
Quick answer is no. I seriously doubt if anyone is going to like the long answer but I will Capitilze my estimate below.
Solid materials are measured in durometer, stiffness or rigidity of foams are measured in Indention Force Deflection (IFD). Most molders do not keep IFD equipment on site as it is too expensive and there other ways around that. (Send it off to a lab is one). IFD is basically the force per surface area required to compress a foam by 25% (There are others but this is probably the most common and the one that I have the most experience with. Note I'm going off my failing poor memory.) In the industry we utilize "Sponge and Rubber Gauges" for manufacturing specs as well as QA/QC.
If I haven't muddied the waters yet.....Hang on I will.
When I worked on the reactions the first thing I wanted was a thicker skin for toughness and durability then I worried about the density and finally the stiffness or IFD (You could call it Durometer).
All that being said, the Durometer Type A from a PTC model 306L reads 42-52 (measurements will vary on what part of the dash you take the reading due to the geometry or surrounding support geometries). I manufacture other products that are a 40 Shore A durometer and they read 45 on this gauge. The original Dash reads 72. (Measurements taken on top horizontal part of dash as if it were mounted).
Therefore I would estimate this to be APPROXIMATELY 45-50 Shore A. The reason I am walking on egg shells here is that theoretically there is no mathematical correlation between IFD, Sponge gauges and Durometer but the mind and hand can tell or do these calculations by feel.
Not to beat a dead horse but the problem with answering your question is one doesn't get the feeling of the IFD because when you compress the part you have more resistance to compression the further you go. It may feel softer for the first instance of compression but you get a feel for the strength as you push harder and harder. The other factor that you have is with an 1/8" thick skin the more you push you are now working on horizontal tensile strength of the skin.
I hope this makes some sense.
Quick answer is no. I seriously doubt if anyone is going to like the long answer but I will Capitilze my estimate below.
Solid materials are measured in durometer, stiffness or rigidity of foams are measured in Indention Force Deflection (IFD). Most molders do not keep IFD equipment on site as it is too expensive and there other ways around that. (Send it off to a lab is one). IFD is basically the force per surface area required to compress a foam by 25% (There are others but this is probably the most common and the one that I have the most experience with. Note I'm going off my failing poor memory.) In the industry we utilize "Sponge and Rubber Gauges" for manufacturing specs as well as QA/QC.
If I haven't muddied the waters yet.....Hang on I will.
When I worked on the reactions the first thing I wanted was a thicker skin for toughness and durability then I worried about the density and finally the stiffness or IFD (You could call it Durometer).
All that being said, the Durometer Type A from a PTC model 306L reads 42-52 (measurements will vary on what part of the dash you take the reading due to the geometry or surrounding support geometries). I manufacture other products that are a 40 Shore A durometer and they read 45 on this gauge. The original Dash reads 72. (Measurements taken on top horizontal part of dash as if it were mounted).
Therefore I would estimate this to be APPROXIMATELY 45-50 Shore A. The reason I am walking on egg shells here is that theoretically there is no mathematical correlation between IFD, Sponge gauges and Durometer but the mind and hand can tell or do these calculations by feel.
Not to beat a dead horse but the problem with answering your question is one doesn't get the feeling of the IFD because when you compress the part you have more resistance to compression the further you go. It may feel softer for the first instance of compression but you get a feel for the strength as you push harder and harder. The other factor that you have is with an 1/8" thick skin the more you push you are now working on horizontal tensile strength of the skin.
I hope this makes some sense.
- Thread starter
- #54
Dash Mounted
Pictures showing the dash mounted.
It pulls up nicely against the windhield fram.
The second photo the dash is not mounted in the two center holes due to a knuclehead (Earlier Owner) who installed a 3 gauge cluster and interferes. You can see where the dash is a little twisted as it is sitting on top of the gauges. I have another fj40 out in the bone yard where the dash has not been cannibalized and probably should have taken pictures with that one but it's 20 miles from here.
There is a logo and I am not showing a close up on that due to I have not completed the Vendor package for this website. You can see it in the overhead photo right next to the right hand of the steering wheel. I debated on whether to put the logo on the dash or not. I know some guys this will be totally turned off while others once they feel and see the dash would care less. The thought that this is our first aftermarket and not an OEM part made me go ahead and put it on. I do apologize if it take away from the purist pursuing this part; However I believe once even the purist feels and sees this product they will want it.
In the past week I have shared this dash with 6 FJ40 owners. All have said I hit a home run and they love it. Some have already purchased one. I'll quit tooting my own horn.
Thanks for the input. I really do appreciate it and keep it coming!!!! I will keep you posted on the progress.
Pictures showing the dash mounted.
It pulls up nicely against the windhield fram.
The second photo the dash is not mounted in the two center holes due to a knuclehead (Earlier Owner) who installed a 3 gauge cluster and interferes. You can see where the dash is a little twisted as it is sitting on top of the gauges. I have another fj40 out in the bone yard where the dash has not been cannibalized and probably should have taken pictures with that one but it's 20 miles from here.
There is a logo and I am not showing a close up on that due to I have not completed the Vendor package for this website. You can see it in the overhead photo right next to the right hand of the steering wheel. I debated on whether to put the logo on the dash or not. I know some guys this will be totally turned off while others once they feel and see the dash would care less. The thought that this is our first aftermarket and not an OEM part made me go ahead and put it on. I do apologize if it take away from the purist pursuing this part; However I believe once even the purist feels and sees this product they will want it.
In the past week I have shared this dash with 6 FJ40 owners. All have said I hit a home run and they love it. Some have already purchased one. I'll quit tooting my own horn.
Thanks for the input. I really do appreciate it and keep it coming!!!! I will keep you posted on the progress.
I have no issues with a logo, but perhaps the placement will be an issue. I would place it on one of the sides, or on top towards the drivers side, similar to where you find vins on more modern cars.
btw it looks awsome!!! great job...
btw it looks awsome!!! great job...
thecrazygreek said:
X2 on placement
Is there a measurement for the material's resistance to UV radiation: UVA, UVB, etc.?
Without all the tech specs and numbers, basically, does your completed product meet or EXCEED the specs for the Toyota original part (as you can test on an existing example)--specifically crushability when struck hard in a collision impact, resistance to common household cleaners that might be used by an end user, potential cracking from sunlight--in other words the factors that have damaged the original parts over all these years?
If you decide to repro the lower dash pads, can you use threaded studs for attaching to the dash, rather than the standard spring clips?
I vote to remove any branding or labelling, certainly from in-your-face viewing. Most aftermarket vendors keep labelling to a minimum or not at all.
Without all the tech specs and numbers, basically, does your completed product meet or EXCEED the specs for the Toyota original part (as you can test on an existing example)--specifically crushability when struck hard in a collision impact, resistance to common household cleaners that might be used by an end user, potential cracking from sunlight--in other words the factors that have damaged the original parts over all these years?
If you decide to repro the lower dash pads, can you use threaded studs for attaching to the dash, rather than the standard spring clips?
I vote to remove any branding or labelling, certainly from in-your-face viewing. Most aftermarket vendors keep labelling to a minimum or not at all.
My idea. Price it two ways one wit it basically a turnkey product. Sell it for 300. Then sell a DIY kit which is the product straight out of the mold . No finishing or cutting the dome light out, etc...
Also down the road make the gasket that goes between the windshield and the body of the 40. Then make a pad for the 80 series center console that will replace the leather on. Next a skin that can be fitted over a fj80 shifter.
Also down the road make the gasket that goes between the windshield and the body of the 40. Then make a pad for the 80 series center console that will replace the leather on. Next a skin that can be fitted over a fj80 shifter.
That big logo completely ruins my interest in having the dash. Up until I saw that, I was very interested. If Toyota didn't have a logo there, neither should yours. IMHO.
I've been monitoring this thread every day and when I saw the last set of photos I was all set to post "I Want One...", but for me the logo is a non starter.
If you make them available with no logo; sign me up, otherwise I have no interest.
I don't mean to be rude, but that's how I feel about it.
If you make them available with no logo; sign me up, otherwise I have no interest.
I don't mean to be rude, but that's how I feel about it.