Aftermarket (even mechanical) gauges into STOCK cluster!!!

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WTF????

That is the fawking s***!!!!!!!!!!!

How can that not be for every one? I use PIAA bulbs in mine but thats is sick!

Based on the orders placed so far, most people do prefer the EL wire option. However I totally understand if someone doesn't want to impact the simple low-electronics nature of a cruiser. The EL wire uses a small driver, about the size of a book of matches, which might reasonably be considered "new fangled"...

Speaking of that driver, I'm going to pot the whole thing in resin for you guys to make it waterproof. Normally, I suspect that it wouldn't light up after being submerged until its been good and dried - potting solves that problem.
 
Suppose I have a working cluster and all I want is the EL wire set up. Whats the cost on that, as that woudl be a huge upgrade with just the wire.
 
The setup with the EL wire is really cool. My amp meter has never worked, and I've been wanting real oil pressure and temp gauges without cutting up my dash for quite some time. Once I recover from my engine rebuild costs i'll be in touch about a set of the brackets with EL wire.
 
very friggen cool idea! glad to see you got this done. i still have an early cluster for you if you need one.

dig the EL wire.:cool:
 
Does either the EL or Mechanical fuel guage need a special sending unit? If so, do you have it available? Thanks
 
Does either the EL or Mechanical fuel guage need a special sending unit? If so, do you have it available? Thanks

Mechanical fuel gauge? I assume you mean oil pressure or water temp...

In any cases, both electrical gauges (oil and water) require special senders, and both senders are included. Both mechanical gauges require lines or probes, which are also included.

What is NOT included are NPT-to-BSPT adapters. Both the electrical and mechanical oil pressure gauges have 1/8" NPT fittings, which, while they'll work with the block as-is, you really should add a BSPT adapter to be safe (the fittings differ by 1 thread per inch. The brass is soft enough that many people just screw it in and are fine).

No adapter is required for the water temp gauges because they have 1/2" NPT fittings. This fitting is safe and desirable to use without an adapter because a) using a fitting would space the probe out too far to be good and accurate, and b) 1/2" NPT and BSPT may be used together safely:

The 1/2” and 3/4” sizes in the NPT and BSP are
all 14 threads per inch, and the NPT will engage
the BSP fairly well.

Although these threads are the same pitch and
engage well there are still issues with the thread
form. The thread angles and the crest and root
tolerances being different will allow spiral leakage
as shown in figure 7. These threads might be used
effectively together if an appropriate thread
sealant is incorporated.
http://www.colder.com/Portals/0/pdfs/NPT.pdf

Clearly more than you wanted to know.
 
Can the EL wire be put on a dimmer? Ive never needed to dim the dash lights in my Cruisers but I might want the option with a lighthouse beacon in my dash.
 
Can the EL wire be put on a dimmer? Ive never needed to dim the dash lights in my Cruisers but I might want the option with a lighthouse beacon in my dash.

:princess:... :D

I'll include instructions for where/how to install a radioshack potentiometer/rheostat to dim the wire. I don't plan to include one with the kit, however, because my simple brain has enough configurations/complexities to deal with at the moment.

However, my impression sitting in the truck was that it was not too bright, or obtrusive in any way.
 
Way too cool! You plan to sell these for a while? I'm not ready for one now, but if there's a chance they'll not be available in a year or so, I'll order now. Definitely don't want to miss out on this.
 
Way too cool! You plan to sell these for a while? I'm not ready for one now, but if there's a chance they'll not be available in a year or so, I'll order now. Definitely don't want to miss out on this.

No prob, you've got time. It'll be available on my website until further notice...
 
Just ordered a mechanical set up from Drew. He is terrific...very helpful and has it together...thanks Drew!
 
The early and late model "OIL" "TEMP" "FUEL" "AMP" lettering I re popped in a decal. You would simply re paint the inner black plate that gets rust trace on the edges (as pictured on yours) and then apply the decal to what ever spot you wish. This will also allow one to place what ever gauge they want in each hole.



:beer::beer:


Shane

Any chance of getting decals that say "volt" instead of "amp"??
 
With the mechanical setup I just ordered, Drew stated I could choose between volt and ammeter....I chose ammeter to match the "amp" logo.
 
Most people consider a voltmeter of more value than an ammeter. I agree. It also gets a huge hot wire out of the cluster. It'd be cool to have the cluster labelled correctly.
 
Can you supply an ammeter that utilizes a remote shunt? I would like to keep an ammeter (they can provide information a voltmeter cannot, and matches the panel) but there's no way I'm running 100 amps through the dash.

Very cool idea, very glad you came through with it. Even more glad I held off on installing aftermarket gauges in my truck so I could do this instead.
 
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