The sheet metal fab would keep me out of the game.
Aftermarket (even mechanical) gauges into STOCK cluster!!!
- Thread starter amaurer
- Start date
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Green Bean
SILVER Star
Given the time and expense and lack of a source for fabbing up the tin, why not consider a Dakota Digital? They have one that closely resembles the OEM...
Wadesters
SILVER Star
I agree the Dakota Digital is nice looking. But at a price point of $1,650 + probably would have to pay or have help to install it, that is pricey.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
It is a fairly straightforward installation. It falls squarely in the camp of "if I can do it, anyone can." 
Wadesters
SILVER Star
Thank you. Now just have to struggle with the $$$ price. But after what I have in this restoration what's a little more. 
I removed the amp gauge and installed a generic voltmeter on my stock cluster. Mainly because i installed a high amp alternator. Other than that I saw no other reason to replace any other gauges. I just did some mild fabrication to the back of the cluster. I also installed improved lighting.
Wadesters
SILVER Star
I would like to keep my original gauges but they are not acting correctly: My oil, temp, amp are not reading correctly. I have replaced the sending units on the oil and temp with OEM. The alternator is rebuilt. The oil pressure will come up a little, but does not fluctuate. The temp starts off all the way pegged in the hot like it should and comes down 3/4 of the way to cool so then when operating it shows almost in the hot range even though it is not. The amp pulsates back-and-forth. Fuel gauge I believe is correct.
Alternator had been rebuilt and voltage regulator looks new with correct part number.
Alternator had been rebuilt and voltage regulator looks new with correct part number.
- Thread starter
- #428
@Wadesters - I'm still around... but older and much more having of a wife and kids; no time for my side hustle's anymore. I hereby donate these designs to the community. Good luck!
Here's a new pdf copy of the instructions: http://drewmaurer.com/SharedLinks/GaugeReplacement/Gauge_Replacement_Brackets_Instructions.pdf
Here is the dxf file of the sheet metal: http://drewmaurer.com/SharedLinks/GaugeReplacement/GaugeReplacement_2_16_11.dxf
Here is another diagram you'll need to fab the harness connector: http://drewmaurer.com/SharedLinks/GaugeReplacement/connector_sheet.bmp
Dimensions in the dxf file in mm, I think. You should be able to send this right to your laser or waterjet guy and have them cut a set for you. Material was 26ga galvanized cold-roll and all my parts were made by Mark @ Triton Waterjet which seem to still be around - highly recommend. Nowadays there are 1000 other online sheet metal cutting vendors as well - I've been using SendCutSend lately and they're pretty great too. I would caution against adjusting the sheet metal thickness unless you want to figure out all new spacers and s***.
Part numbers for the various washers/spacers/etc are in the instructions - you can probably still get everything you need from McMaster. Unfortunately the harnesses were custom made by me so you'll be on your own for a new EL wire and LED supplier. Likewise the connector was a custom part made by me - it was originally resin-cast so there's not much I can share with you... I know that in later years I did 3D print these connector instead of cast them, but I can't find those files. Shortest putt is just to skip the cluster connector and plug individual pins into the truck-side connector using the "connector_sheet.bmp" diagram above - any old 2.0mm/0.093" male molex pin will work fine for this.
Also, just my personal opinion here but I suppose I am something of an expert when it comes to this kit: the electrical gauges / Autometer #2391 version was the best option. They fit better in this kit and were more reliable overall. I offered the mechanical-gauges-variant because all you old boogers on here didn't trust anything electronic, but god damn did I hate putting those versions together.
Here's a new pdf copy of the instructions: http://drewmaurer.com/SharedLinks/GaugeReplacement/Gauge_Replacement_Brackets_Instructions.pdf
Here is the dxf file of the sheet metal: http://drewmaurer.com/SharedLinks/GaugeReplacement/GaugeReplacement_2_16_11.dxf
Here is another diagram you'll need to fab the harness connector: http://drewmaurer.com/SharedLinks/GaugeReplacement/connector_sheet.bmp
Dimensions in the dxf file in mm, I think. You should be able to send this right to your laser or waterjet guy and have them cut a set for you. Material was 26ga galvanized cold-roll and all my parts were made by Mark @ Triton Waterjet which seem to still be around - highly recommend. Nowadays there are 1000 other online sheet metal cutting vendors as well - I've been using SendCutSend lately and they're pretty great too. I would caution against adjusting the sheet metal thickness unless you want to figure out all new spacers and s***.
Part numbers for the various washers/spacers/etc are in the instructions - you can probably still get everything you need from McMaster. Unfortunately the harnesses were custom made by me so you'll be on your own for a new EL wire and LED supplier. Likewise the connector was a custom part made by me - it was originally resin-cast so there's not much I can share with you... I know that in later years I did 3D print these connector instead of cast them, but I can't find those files. Shortest putt is just to skip the cluster connector and plug individual pins into the truck-side connector using the "connector_sheet.bmp" diagram above - any old 2.0mm/0.093" male molex pin will work fine for this.
Also, just my personal opinion here but I suppose I am something of an expert when it comes to this kit: the electrical gauges / Autometer #2391 version was the best option. They fit better in this kit and were more reliable overall. I offered the mechanical-gauges-variant because all you old boogers on here didn't trust anything electronic, but god damn did I hate putting those versions together.
