Aftermarket (even mechanical) gauges into STOCK cluster!!!

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Just a note to everyone who ordered, thanks for your patience, all orders are shipping out today except BELMONT's, who's paint is drying and will ship tomorrow..

I sent a set of brackets out early to one customer by request, his experience with my instructions was... well, he thought they sucked. If you haven't yet, head to my website and check them out (they're online only, not in the box) - I HIGHLY recommend reading the whole thing before you start bending things, it will give you a better idea of the finished shapes and where everything fits: http://cruiseruser.com/instructions.pdf

I don't have time before you guys start digging it, or enough feedback, to fix whatever might be deficient with my instructions, so if you have any trouble when bending/installing/anything, just email me or send a PM, you'll probably never have to wait more than an hour for a reply.

Now that everything is built, here are a few tips/notes that may or may not be properly elucidated in the instructions:

  • If you're using the barrel connector, note that it will be quite a tight fit, but don't worry, it WILL go in - I tested every harness in my own truck.
  • There is a label on the harness that says "Connector tab goes between red wires" - this cryptic message means, when you plug the barrel connector in, make sure that the "key" on the center of the truck's connector points between-ish the two red wires in the new cluster harness.
  • In the instructions, I use "early" and "late" clusters sorta loosely. To clarify, when bending the gauge mask, if your cluster does NOT have turn signals in the speedometer, follow the "Early" instructions. When you get to installation, it will be obvious based on the construction of your cluster which path to follow.
  • If you jerk the headlights on and off very quickly repeatedly (like I was doing to test the harnesses), the EL backlight may start flashing or turn off. Your headlamp relay causes a little voltage pulse when it opens and closes, which can disrupt the EL wire driver - if that happens, just turn the lights off and on again.

Thanks guys!
 
rockfaceoff.gif
 
*said with a lisp*

Can I get fuchsia? I just love me some fuchsia!
 
sweeeeeeet! mine arrived today too, now to get busy bending it up and assembling it.

Drew it looks great!
thank you!
 
Just got mine a few minutes ago. All I can say is F-ING SWEET!

I got the works package all installed and it looks great. Can't wait to see it fired up with the lights. You just made all my gauge problems go away.

Thanks again :cheers:

Jeremy
 
So has anyone driven at night with the EL wire yet to determine if they are too bright or ok?

Well, I have and think its fine.

What do you do if the EL wire burns out? How are the EL wires held in place?

See my reply above about the lifetime of the EL wire. If it ever becomes so dim as to be useless, you'll have to pull it off and replace it. Its held on with glue, so using some type of cement (as opposed to superglue or epoxy) is preferable for removability. But, in all honesty, this is not likely to be a big concern.
 
Stock gauges in a 78 should be electrical like in my 79. Mechanical gauges are supposed to be more accurate but you have to run tubing into the passenger compartment with oil in it to hook to the gauge. I've never been crazy about this idea, but people have been doing it for decades. Hopefully i'll be ordering one of these kits soon. It would be nice to know if the oil pressure in my recently rebuilt 2F really is dropping slightly under load, and how much. The stock gauge says it is, but I don't trust it a whole lot.
 
Wow:cool:, this is on my must have list. Nice web site!
 
Stock gauges in a 78 should be electrical like in my 79. Mechanical gauges are supposed to be more accurate but you have to run tubing into the passenger compartment with oil in it to hook to the gauge. I've never been crazy about this idea, but people have been doing it for decades. Hopefully i'll be ordering one of these kits soon. It would be nice to know if the oil pressure in my recently rebuilt 2F really is dropping slightly under load, and how much. The stock gauge says it is, but I don't trust it a whole lot.

Thank you
 
Thank you

Lets be clear - Toyota used electrical gauges, however you're free to choose whichever you like. Nothing from the old setup is reused, if you go electrical all new autometer senders are included, so it doesn't matter tha Toyota used electrical.
 
Lets be clear - Toyota used electrical gauges, however you're free to choose whichever you like. Nothing from the old setup is reused, if you go electrical all new autometer senders are included, so it doesn't matter tha Toyota used electrical.

Excellent. Are the senders threaded for the same location to replace the factory senders? Doesn't oil pressure come off the filter mount?
 
Excellent. Are the senders threaded for the same location to replace the factory senders? Doesn't oil pressure come off the filter mount?

The oil pressure senders are 1/8" NPT and will need a NPT-BSPT adapter.

The water temp senders are also NPT, but 1/2" and larger are OK to use with BSPT, with no adapter.
 
The oil pressure senders are 1/8" NPT and will need a NPT-BSPT adapter.

The water temp senders are also NPT, but 1/2" and larger are OK to use with BSPT, with no adapter.

Hmm, will gauges work with stock senders, or does that defeat the purpose of replacing the gauges?

Does anyone have a pic of the adapters and senders in place? I hate getting too many adapters in place and having a big gangly looking set-up.
 
Hmm, will gauges work with stock senders, or does that defeat the purpose of replacing the gauges?

Does anyone have a pic of the adapters and senders in place? I hate getting too many adapters in place and having a big gangly looking set-up.

No, the new [electrical] gauges don't work with the stock senders.

The adapter stackup is not extreme. For the oil pressure it adds maybe 0.5" of length to the sender, an example would be:

31YWJSM82JL._SL160_.jpg


The water temp doesn't add much length at all, the adapter is a bushing so the threads are internal.
 

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