Adjustable panhard bars for a lifted DD?

[Lankan]

Hey guys, I'm running a 4" lift with 35's and want my axles centered. Options include Slee, TJM, & Ironman, all of which are $200-$240 each (I want to replace both front & rear). Came across these online:

One pair Adjustable Panhard Rod Bar Fit Toyota Land Cruiser 80 100 105 Series | eBay

Anyone running these, and if so, any opinions? As the subject line says, I do like to daily drive and take my cruiser on long family trips, but also like to wheel hard! If the ones on ebay aren't recommended, which of the three listed above, or any other brand are you guys running?

I prefer the OE bushing set-up, but also don't want the hassle of keeping the stock panhard bars and cutting/welding-in the adjusters.

 

[scrowley]

@landtank sells a quality diy kit to make your oem panhards bars adjustable. Retain oem rubber bushings.

 

[LXDOC]

I have the front and rear from Machter. They have rubber bushings installed. Front bar bushings correct size. Rear bar bushing too small to use stock fastener. I just pressed out my originals and used them. They are fully adjustable while both ends are attached to the vehicle and the tires are on the ground. Welds were good at each end.

 

[2fpower]

I just bought the kit from SLEE to "weld in" the adjustment. $120 to my door. Needed it when I could not put the mount on the same spot on the Volvo axles.
I helped weld one last year for @FZJ80 in KC and it was really nicely made.

 

[FZJ80 in KC]

I just bought the kit from SLEE to "weld in" the adjustment. $120 to my door. Needed it when I could not put the mount on the same spot on the Volvo axles.
I helped weld one last year for @FZJ80 in KC and it was really nicely made.

Yep, if welding is an option for you, SLEE's is a very good option. The stock front panhard is solid, so very beefy. Same issue here. When I added front swaybar drop blocks, I really noticed how off my axle was tracking. Also daily drive mine, and very pleased.

 

[-Spike-]

If you truly 'wheel hard' with large tires you're going to want the axles centered when stuffed, not when sitting level, to keep tire rub to a minimum. If you center the axle for the lift by lengthening the panhard, the rear passenger tire and front driver tire will be into the frame and inner wheel well when stuffed. I have adjustable panhards, which are now adjusted to factory length. I rub my rear tires equally on both sides. If my axle was centered, stuffing the right rear would stop the truck.

If you don't really wheel hard and don't plan on pushing the suspension flex and tire size to the limits, go for it.

 

[Lankan]

If you truly 'wheel hard' with large tires you're going to want the axles centered when stuffed, not when sitting level, to keep tire rub to a minimum. If you center the axle for the lift by lengthening the panhard, the rear passenger tire and front driver tire will be into the frame and inner wheel well when stuffed. I have adjustable panhards, which are now adjusted to factory length. I rub my rear tires equally on both sides. If my axle was centered, stuffing the right rear would stop the truck.

If you don't really wheel hard and don't plan on pushing the suspension flex and tire size to the limits, go for it.

Interesting, cause with the stock panhards, I'm on a 4" lift with 35's, and the little bit of rubbing I get is on the driver rear. If what your saying makes sense, what's the benefit of getting adjustable panhards... just centering the axles at ride height, only to rub on the opposite side from before the "upgrade".

Or is there a "sweet spot" that is between the axles being centered, and the same length as the stock panhards?

 

[-Spike-]

Interesting, cause with the stock panhards, I'm on a 4" lift with 35's, and the little bit of rubbing I get is on the driver rear. If what your saying makes sense, what's the benefit of getting adjustable panhards... just centering the axles at ride height, only to rub on the opposite side from before the "upgrade".

Or is there a "sweet spot" that is between the axles being centered, and the same length as the stock panhards?

Like most mods, it depends on what you want to do with the truck. If you are mostly concerned with the way it looks driving down the road, adjustable panhards can center the axles. Unfortunately (on LHD models at least) the panhards drop to opposite sides of the truck, so the axles move opposite directions when you lift it, which magnifies the effect and looks odd. It doesn't affect the way the truck drives at all. If you are more concerned with off road ability, you will, like I did, re-adjust your adjustable panhards to very near stock lengths. You may be able to equalize the rubbing with a slightly longer length in your case, but at what cost? Adjustable panhards would be way down on my priority list if I were building another 80.

 

[Box Rocket]

Dont forget Blackhawk adjustable panhards. They are part (optional) of the Slinky kits. Factory bushes and double jam nuts. One more option to add to the list. Production versions are black powdercoat.

 

[Lankan]

Dont forget Blackhawk adjustable panhards. They are part (optional) of the Slinky kits. Factory bushes and double jam nuts. One more option to add to the list. Production versions are black powdercoat.
View attachment 1674375

Tried searching for these online, but couldn't find anything! Got a link?

 

[Box Rocket]

Tried searching for these online, but couldn't find anything! Got a link?

Suspension - Pan Hard Rods - 4xOverlandUSA

 

[LINUS]

Another Slee weld-in kit here. Good stuff.

 

[malteserunner]

I am running Tough Dog from Trail-Tailor.

Tough Dog Adjustable Panhard Bars

 

[Nay]

If you truly 'wheel hard' with large tires you're going to want the axles centered when stuffed, not when sitting level, to keep tire rub to a minimum. If you center the axle for the lift by lengthening the panhard, the rear passenger tire and front driver tire will be into the frame and inner wheel well when stuffed. I have adjustable panhards, which are now adjusted to factory length. I rub my rear tires equally on both sides. If my axle was centered, stuffing the right rear would stop the truck.

If you don't really wheel hard and don't plan on pushing the suspension flex and tire size to the limits, go for it.

I have centered axles at stock ride height with adjustable panhards and my 37’s clear in all 4 corners at full stuff.

I don’t understand this issue.

 

[nukegoat]

I have centered axles at stock ride height with adjustable panhards and my 37’s clear in all 4 corners at full stuff.

I don’t understand this issue.

Because geometry

 

[Nay]

Because geometry

I’m down with C squared. My 37’s still don’t rub.

 

[-Spike-]

I’m down with C squared. My 37’s still don’t rub.

Obviously, you don't wheel hard.

There are other factors, such as bump stops, wheel offset, body alterations, etc that will affect things. I should have known to never state absolutes. My apologies.

 

[nukegoat]

Obviously, you don't wheel hard.

There are other factors, such as bump stops, wheel offset, body alterations, etc that will affect things. I should have known to never state absolutes. My apologies.

'Alterations'

 

[-Spike-]

'Alterations'

Yeah. You know, for better clearance. I understand you recently altered one of your doors to better fit down a certain trail.

 

[Nay]

Obviously, you don't wheel hard.

There are other factors, such as bump stops, wheel offset, body alterations, etc that will affect things. I should have known to never state absolutes. My apologies.

True.

If I decide to wheel harder, I’ll shorten my panhards