Go Tundra diff to Dana 60 outers
Build ADHDJ45 - OM606 45 Wheeler Build
- Thread starter DirtSniffer
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- build build thread fj40
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I did a custom 14” stretched body from Aqualu and I had them build it like the 18” stretch where the added length is in the middle of the frame. I LOVE the length, especially for the leg room that both the front and rear passengers will get. It just looks right, too, but I have probably been staring at it too much. The 10” stretch would not have been enough for me.
18” might have been fine as I did run into some clearance challenges for putting the fuel tank behind my corporate 14B and in front of the added sway bar under the rear. My 14B is moved backwards and the D60 forwards to achieve 109” wheelbase and I would have been fine with 4 additional inches of overhang and the same wheelbase.
I used FJ40 frame rails to lengthen my frame and I’d have new rails braked next time, which is what I ended up doing for my inner rails anyway.
- Thread starter
- #183
I will probably be shooting for roughly that amount of stretch, which should be done easily by sliding the front cross member back 4". They unfortunately won't do custom length frames.
Reconcidering the centered 9.5 again. The D60s may just be too wide and need shortening. Front range also sells full float adapter flanges that bolt on to 4Runner/taco/tundra/FJ 8.4" axles and uses the same spindle & hub setup. I do like the idea of lots of diff clearance, but the 8.4 might not hold up with 37s and the 606. I don't get rowdy on rocks though. Another option is a rock assault housing with the weld on flanges which would fix the issue of the stock 8.4 housing being a bit flimsy. That plus going full float should make it pretty strong over stock. But, I do already have a 9.5...
I had to replace my crossmember due to clearance issues. Shortening my D60 was very easy though keep in mind that these axles are VERY HEAVY and that mass alone will most likely take away from the added strength that you gain from a stock 1-ton setup. I don’t know anything about alternative axle routes outside of the 40 housings with minitruck parts. You are in good hands from the others who have chimed in.
- Thread starter
- #185
I do like that weight down low though. Lower center of gravity, pushes tires down more for more traction. But, more unsprung weight will amplify any geometry issues with my link setup. Still thinking.
I can’t remember if I posted this here before, and you probably already know all of this but if you like the weight and strength of the 1-ton setup, and width is your concern, I used dual wheel hubs on my C14, then I cut the left D60 axle tube with a sawzall and had a custom chrome moly shaft made by Currie Enterprises for for $250. I’m at 63” WMS.
- Thread starter
- #187
I was aware of your setup, and would probably do similar if going with tons. At that point though I am either modifying a front D60 or a rear toy axle. No easy button here unfortunately.
- Thread starter
- #188
The only easy route I have come up with is if I were to run the 8HP70/75, and an axis industries adapter to split case. I do have a 38mm split case. Then just run the stock 80 axles. The 5:1 1st gear of the 8hp plus 3:1 or 4:1 in the split case should be plenty for crawling. The axis adapters would run about 2 grand though, which puts me into atlas territory with the t-case gears. I am also holding out hope that DPUK finishes the manual valve body for the NAG-1 722.6 transmission, as I like that much more than expensive computers...
- Thread starter
- #189
I've been thinking this over far too long now. But I think I am going to copy @Mike Shull and do a drw hub 14b rear and narrowed d60 front. The different bolt patterns and widths just makes it a huge headache to find a simpler solution. I like the beef of the tons, will give piece of mind on trips out west. Plus, the 606 will be putting out decent power. Then sell my split case and run an atlas regardless of my transmission choice.
Mike, I need to read up on this more, but you basically cut out the old inner C on the D60, cut to length, and press on and weld new inner Cs?
As it happens, someone now wants my rear 80 axle. May hold on the the front for a future project.
Mike, I need to read up on this more, but you basically cut out the old inner C on the D60, cut to length, and press on and weld new inner Cs?
As it happens, someone now wants my rear 80 axle. May hold on the the front for a future project.
You do know that his full build thread is in the Hardcore section correct ? there are a bunch of good builds over there
- Thread starter
- #191
I've been through his thread, didn't quite get the process of shortening the D60 but that is what it looked like. I'll be doing some reading there for sure.
Shortening the axle is on the very first page of my thread. I didn’t really do a how to but I’m happy to answer any questions. I had a lot of help from the folks on here.
I cut both Cs off and welded on two Reid Racing Cs so that I could rotate my diff a bit. This was probably not that necessary. I had to heat the new Cs to a pretty high temperature to be able to install them.
I just saw a 1-ton Chevy truck that sold on Craigslist. The bed was gone and it was fairly stripped but it had the D60/C14 setup for $1500. It went quick. I’ll keep my eye open.
And here is another one. 1986 k30 military pickup truck d30 chevy 1 ton - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale - craigslist - https://longisland.craigslist.org/pts/d/shoreham-1986-k30-military-pickup-truck/7732040207.html
I lucked out and my axles came built with 35 spline shafts, ARBs and 5:13 gears.
I lucked out and my axles came built with 35 spline shafts, ARBs and 5:13 gears.
- Thread starter
- #194
Seems simple enough. Good to get caster adjusted as well. I'll be keeping an eye out once I get a few things sold, won't be ready for axles and suspension till next spring by my estimation.
- Thread starter
- #195
Not much progress last few weeks. Beat the crap out of my 80 in the Black Hills and have been tending to it a bit as well as other projects/distractions. Had been thinking about selling it due to it being such a distraction, but it wheels so well compared to my FJC and old 4Runner that I have decided to keep it and dump more money into it.
As for the 40, I have changed my mind yet again on the axles. Ruff Stuff recently released their 80 series knuckle balls. Diamond also makes them but only sells with custom built axles. They have not responded to my inquiry for a custom housing. I will also be running an axis industries adapter behind a NAG-1 to run my 38mm split case instead of an atlas. The 606 will benefit from being shifted over to the driver's side like the original 2F due to fan position and other fitment issues. I can then build the 9.5 rear axle offset however much it needs to be and get custom shafts and drive flanges. The front would likely be stock 80 width 9.5.
Been tinkering with the rear bumper. Have the winch line hole cut and boxed, fairlead bolt holes sleeved. Ends wedged, will cap the bottoms after getting the swingout spindle welded up. Tail lights just hanging for visual, need to drill and tap holes for mount screws. Will be welding a little shelf under each of them to protect from dragging over rocks/ledges.
As for the 40, I have changed my mind yet again on the axles. Ruff Stuff recently released their 80 series knuckle balls. Diamond also makes them but only sells with custom built axles. They have not responded to my inquiry for a custom housing. I will also be running an axis industries adapter behind a NAG-1 to run my 38mm split case instead of an atlas. The 606 will benefit from being shifted over to the driver's side like the original 2F due to fan position and other fitment issues. I can then build the 9.5 rear axle offset however much it needs to be and get custom shafts and drive flanges. The front would likely be stock 80 width 9.5.
Been tinkering with the rear bumper. Have the winch line hole cut and boxed, fairlead bolt holes sleeved. Ends wedged, will cap the bottoms after getting the swingout spindle welded up. Tail lights just hanging for visual, need to drill and tap holes for mount screws. Will be welding a little shelf under each of them to protect from dragging over rocks/ledges.
- Thread starter
- #196
Not dead, yet. Made progress over the summer just wasn't progress I felt was visually appealing enough to want to post. And I am lazy.
Plans have changed a bit, and I have updated the thread title and build name to reflect that. Had a bunch of discussion about these changes in a separate thread here.
Long story short, I am now doing somewhat of fake FJ45 with a moderately stretched cab. 3 link front, dual triangulated 4 link rear. Likely 14" coilovers all around. I am considering doing a cantilever setup for the rear coilovers to save more usable bed space.
After much contemplation, I have decided I am likely going to pick up another set of 80 axles. I believe they are adequately strong for my power goal and driving style, they will save me a ton of time and a good chunk of money, and I am already familiar and comfortable working on the Toy axles. Possibly with high steer, but I have also seen 3 links done with the bars over top of the tie rod as it is stock. Something to decide later.
My goal was something in the ballpark of 6-8" of cab stretch over a regular 45 with a wheelbase somewhat close to an 80's. More stretch looks a bit weird to me without making the wheelbase longer than I would like. I started by hacking up a set up 40 hard top sides. I really want to retain the popout window, and ended up shortening it about 3 inches. Will probably cut some new ones out of plexiglass. I was able to remove 2.5 inches from between the back of the popout and the start of the curved window.
I asked Bud from BudBuilt to have some rear corners bent up for me, ended up being very reasonably priced. These are 3/16" thick. I drilled out the spot welds on the bottom seam of the tub rails and slipped a strip of sheet in between to bump the thickness up to make an even butt weld to the quarters.
Here is a cross cut of the extra rail:
I temporarily braced the quarters together on the welding table, then used the tubing I will be using for the frame to extend the table enough to drop the rockers of the cab onto for a nice large, flat surface to make sure the back half went on nice and square and welded it up to the B pillar. Then finished trimming and tacked up the hard top sides. These still need some work, but good enough to keep things moving elsewhere. I have a decent hatch I an thinking about hacking up to make the back for a one piece top.
Plan is to drag stuff out come spring and box in the rockers, weld in the rear "Sill" where the cab mounts will weld to, then start on the frame. Goal is to have engine and drivetrain mounted and links mocked up by end of summer. Maybe coilovers if things go well.
Plans have changed a bit, and I have updated the thread title and build name to reflect that. Had a bunch of discussion about these changes in a separate thread here.
Long story short, I am now doing somewhat of fake FJ45 with a moderately stretched cab. 3 link front, dual triangulated 4 link rear. Likely 14" coilovers all around. I am considering doing a cantilever setup for the rear coilovers to save more usable bed space.
After much contemplation, I have decided I am likely going to pick up another set of 80 axles. I believe they are adequately strong for my power goal and driving style, they will save me a ton of time and a good chunk of money, and I am already familiar and comfortable working on the Toy axles. Possibly with high steer, but I have also seen 3 links done with the bars over top of the tie rod as it is stock. Something to decide later.
My goal was something in the ballpark of 6-8" of cab stretch over a regular 45 with a wheelbase somewhat close to an 80's. More stretch looks a bit weird to me without making the wheelbase longer than I would like. I started by hacking up a set up 40 hard top sides. I really want to retain the popout window, and ended up shortening it about 3 inches. Will probably cut some new ones out of plexiglass. I was able to remove 2.5 inches from between the back of the popout and the start of the curved window.
I asked Bud from BudBuilt to have some rear corners bent up for me, ended up being very reasonably priced. These are 3/16" thick. I drilled out the spot welds on the bottom seam of the tub rails and slipped a strip of sheet in between to bump the thickness up to make an even butt weld to the quarters.
Here is a cross cut of the extra rail:
I temporarily braced the quarters together on the welding table, then used the tubing I will be using for the frame to extend the table enough to drop the rockers of the cab onto for a nice large, flat surface to make sure the back half went on nice and square and welded it up to the B pillar. Then finished trimming and tacked up the hard top sides. These still need some work, but good enough to keep things moving elsewhere. I have a decent hatch I an thinking about hacking up to make the back for a one piece top.
Plan is to drag stuff out come spring and box in the rockers, weld in the rear "Sill" where the cab mounts will weld to, then start on the frame. Goal is to have engine and drivetrain mounted and links mocked up by end of summer. Maybe coilovers if things go well.
In the 80 section there is a thread about 8 & 10 speed transmission upgrades. In that thread there is a member that documents work done with a company called Domiworks that developed a really nice adapter from the 8hp trans to the 80 series HF2a t-case. That would give you another option to consider over the splitcase.
Toyota HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - Dodge 8HP AWD 23 Spline
Toyota HF2AV Transfer Case Adapter kit - Dodge 8HP AWD 23 Spline Adapter kit to adapter the Toyota HF2AV Transfer case to a Dodge 8HP AWD Transmission with the 23 spline output axle. Fits Dodge 8HP70 with the smaller output axle with 23 teeth spline. Transfer case adapter measures 126mm...
www.domi-works.com
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- Thread starter
- #198
8HP is another option I have considered, but would require a trans adapter. 722.6 just need a bellhousing swap to the merc 606 722.6 version. And I've got that already. @fjdiesel worked out an adapter at a local machine shop for the split case and seems to be happy with the trans but playing with different controllers. He's also got the Black Box I might steal to try out, I can fit it with my wheelbase. I believe Axis Industries builds adapters to adapt 8HP to the HF2A but are spendy. This setup seems to be the most cost effective option that should work well. But not set in stone...
Based on @fjdiesel 's experiences at altitude, I think I might need to get a little higher stall torque converter to let the engine spin up and spool the turbo easier. 8HP, I believe that can be accommodated with programming as from what I have read that transmission does not use the torque converter much and mostly just varies clutch pack pressure.
There is also the possibility that DPUK finished their manual valve body they are designing before I need a controller, which would be cool if it allows for engine braking which I believe some manual VBs do not.