Acceleration issues

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I'm having a problem with my FJ and hopefully someone has some input. I have a 74 with a 2F engine along with a troll hole carb I also put headers on. The problem is when the FJ is cold it runs like crap until the engine gets up to temperature. While the engine is cold if I step on the gas hard to race up the rpms the engine misses and chokes itself out causing it to shut off in order to properly drive around I have to wait for the engine to get hot then it runs around like a top. Does anyone have any experience with this? Or idea what may be causing it?
 
So many things to check...Vacuum leak, timing, plug wires, make sure that you've got good fuel pressure. Also check your plugs as well. It could be a number of things. If the headers are not mated properly you could have an exhaust leak isssue

Post pics of the plugs...
check for intake & exhaust leaks....
 
I will look into those things tomorrow. But why would it run fine once hot? Also I forgot to add it take awhile for the engine to fire it'll usually crank for like 5-10 seconds before actually firing up when it hasn't been run in awhile
 
That sounds like ignition issue - exact opposite of my problem - mine ran fine cold, but once warm, points were not creating a good spark.

Double check plugs, wires, maybe replace points & condensor - basic tune up items - then let's see if it'll crank and run.

You could be really rich (too much fuel).....
 
I was thinking that also may be getting too much fuel it's strange cause it sound great at an idle I will look into this stuff when I'm done work today thanks again for the suggestions
 
Yea I have the choke hooked up and use it have to have it wide open to get it to fire during all that cranking
 
What kind of temps are we talking about here when you say "cold"?

The original manifold had 2 ways to deal with this. First was the intake air cleaner had a flap door that took Hot Air from the engine bay that passed over the exhaust manifold. It was thermally actuated to close once it got warmed up. Then only drawing cold air from outside the bay. The second was a thermally actuated door in the exhaust manifold that would close in cold temps. When closed, warm exhaust would pass under the intake manifold, heating up the fuel and air before it entered the cylinders. My advice is to ditch the headers and get a stock setup reinstalled. Just my 2 cents worth. My 2f starts and runs really smooth in cold temps with little use of the choke. Some here will disagree with my thoughts on the headers, but the region where you live will make a difference.
 
I live in eastern central PA near Pottsville. I usually only get my cruiser out in the spring/summer sometimes in November to take it hunting so when I say cold it can be anywhere from 40-80 which I guess isn't really cold. In other terms the engine is not hot when the issues occur. I am thinking about going over the header nuts again maybe new ones along with a good torquing. Also plan on cleaning up my points maybe new ones and checking the plug gaps. Also I'm going to try to tweak the mixture screw around a bit and see if that helps. I'm dying to get it on the road for once. I appreciate the advice from everyone that commented and offered some advice
 
Also is there a way to tell if my plug wires are bad?
 
That could be the case also haven't even thought of that
 
Sounds to me if you have an intake leak that is closing up when the metal around it is expanding.

If you have headers I recommend a remflex gasket.


I went over the headers torqued them over again I think the jets in carb are too big and I'm getting too much fuel. troll hole could you help me out with this its one of your carbs I got off you awhile ago
 
I have very similar symptoms to those you posted. I am running a 38 Weber with headers.(it pops and sputters when first started--esp in the cold weather) There are absolutely NO vac leaks on my rig. The Head was recently replaced due to cracks--the head has new valves and the necessary valve adjustments-
Exhaust leaks will never cause what you are seeing-they never cause ANY combustion problems unless the exhaust is completely plugged--like a potatoe in the exhaust pipe--Ha!
if this is a prob you have just started seeing--it's unlikely it's the carb, especially if the rig runs fine in warmer temps(like mine does)
I would check the dizzy to make sure the vac advance(or retard) is moving as it should--either locked up(like mine is) or the vac hose is leaking(or the diaphragm is toast)
Another remote possibility is the valve adjustments.
Please stop calling it an FJ
 
I have very similar symptoms to those you posted. I am running a 38 Weber with headers.(it pops and sputters when first started--esp in the cold weather) There are absolutely NO vac leaks on my rig. The Head was recently replaced due to cracks--the head has new valves and the necessary valve adjustments-
Exhaust leaks will never cause what you are seeing-they never cause ANY combustion problems unless the exhaust is completely plugged--like a potatoe in the exhaust pipe--Ha!
if this is a prob you have just started seeing--it's unlikely it's the carb, especially if the rig runs fine in warmer temps(like mine does)
I would check the dizzy to make sure the vac advance(or retard) is moving as it should--either locked up(like mine is) or the vac hose is leaking(or the diaphragm is toast)
Another remote possibility is the valve adjustments.
Please stop calling it an FJ
I'll look into that stuff tomorrow thanks for the advice. Is there a reason im not supposed to call it a FJ? What else am I supposed to call it?
 
FJ-40, or a 40. FJ refers to the newer, less robust vintage of the reinvented Land Cruiser---
it's almost like(almost) calling it a J**p
If you have an "FJ" this is what awaits you---Hopefully, there is a 40 around somewhere to get you out--
But you already new this--since you own a 74---

FJ need tow from grandpa FJ40.webp
 
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