AC Condenser leak? (1 Viewer)

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shtbrwn86

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Been trying to troubleshoot an AC issue for a few years now. I replaced a leaking high-pressure line (OEM) back in Sept. 2020 and about 10 months later it was so low on refrigerant that the compressor wouldn't kick on. Had it vacuum tested and recharged and it worked for about 10 months again. Couldn't find any leaks anywhere using the DYE they put in the system, although I didn't pull out the rear evaporator? Evac and recharge again and this time it lasted a few weeks. Went poking around and I think it might be the condenser? How common is this? Does this look like a bad leak? I can't really just wipe it off and see if it comes back because it doesn't have enough refrigerant to run the compressor. I lubed the O-rings (actually they came pre-lubed, but I added a little more to be safe) but the leak doesn't seem to be coming from the seal between the hardline and condenser, but rather the condenser itself?

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The thing that really sucks about this is that it's $250-$300 every time I replace anything because I have to get the system evacuated and then recharged.
 
It's cheaper to buy a vacuum pump and use regular 134A cans with the hose to connect to charging port. add enough gas by weight or until glass clears on the filter.
 
It's cheaper to buy a vacuum pump and use regular 134A cans with the hose to connect to charging port. add enough gas by weight or until glass clears on the filter.
You mean those standard 134a recharge kits? So just pull a vacuum and then empty the can? Tough thing is they don’t sell those in Washington State anymore but I’m going to Idaho next week where the supposedly still sell them.
 
Okay, well I bought nine cans of R134a at Wal-Mart in Idaho so I think I am going to attempt to tackle this project using some of the videos online (ChrisFix and Eric the Car Guy) I plan on renting a manifold set and vacuum pump from Autozone. I will take it to a shop to fully evacuate the system. Hopefully they do it for free since they did the whole recharge for me a few months ago and told me to take it back to them if it leaked (vacuum showed no leaks).

I will try and document this here since I don't see a lot of write-ups on it here, but I have a few specific questions...
  1. When they evacuate the system, does this pull all the oil out too? Manual says to add 1.76 oz of oil when replacing the condenser, so I assume that means I don't need to add more oil than that. Do I measure this by weight on my scale?
  2. The manual I am going off is a 2004. My LX is a 1999. Condenser is the same part # so same amount of oil I assume.
  3. Manual says to use 37.03 plus or minus 1.76oz of refrigerant. What is the plus or minus part about? Is there some variable that dictates how much you can use? Or is it just the acceptable rang? The cans I bought are 12oz cans so three cans would put me pretty much right in the middle without needing to open and store a partial can.
FYI I have been hesitant to work on AC systems but the more I look into it, the more it looks like something anyone can do if they have patience and pay attention to what they are doing. And yes, safety googles and gloves will be worn!
 
Okay, well I bought nine cans of R134a at Wal-Mart in Idaho so I think I am going to attempt to tackle this project using some of the videos online (ChrisFix and Eric the Car Guy) I plan on renting a manifold set and vacuum pump from Autozone. I will take it to a shop to fully evacuate the system. Hopefully they do it for free since they did the whole recharge for me a few months ago and told me to take it back to them if it leaked (vacuum showed no leaks).

I will try and document this here since I don't see a lot of write-ups on it here, but I have a few specific questions...
  1. When they evacuate the system, does this pull all the oil out too? Manual says to add 1.76 oz of oil when replacing the condenser, so I assume that means I don't need to add more oil than that. Do I measure this by weight on my scale?
  2. The manual I am going off is a 2004. My LX is a 1999. Condenser is the same part # so same amount of oil I assume.
  3. Manual says to use 37.03 plus or minus 1.76oz of refrigerant. What is the plus or minus part about? Is there some variable that dictates how much you can use? Or is it just the acceptable rang? The cans I bought are 12oz cans so three cans would put me pretty much right in the middle without needing to open and store a partial can.
FYI I have been hesitant to work on AC systems but the more I look into it, the more it looks like something anyone can do if they have patience and pay attention to what they are doing. And yes, safety googles and gloves will be worn!

Also, I am thinking of going with a Denso for the condenser vs OEM. Every penny counts and this is a pretty simple component and I am not 100% sure that's even the issue although the oil on the condenser and bent fins makes me think it is. I think the shop that replaced the radiator likely damaged the condenser. I'm pretty sure they damaged the high pressure line when the pulled the radiator out too.
 
Add 'some' oil to the system before you recharge. ~2 oz. sounds good. Evacuation will not remove all the oil, so you're mostly replacing what was trapped in the condenser.

I would add no more than 3 cans of R-134a, and monitor the center vent temperature with a dial-type thermometer (not an IR temp gun). When you see more than a 40 degree drop in temps, you're probably there. Be ready with a large container of hot water, as the last can of refrigerant will not want to go into the system. You dunk the can in hot water to warm it and force the last of the refrigerant into the system. The system may not take it all, in which case you just disconnect the can (with 1/4 of it left) and move on. It's better to slightly undercharge the system, and if it's nice and cold, that's more important than a 1-2 oz. swing either way.

You are right in saying that any regular Joe can do A/C work with some care and instruction. It's very satisfying to fix your own A/C for a couple hundred dollars vs. a $1500 quote.
 
Add 'some' oil to the system before you recharge. ~2 oz. sounds good. Evacuation will not remove all the oil, so you're mostly replacing what was trapped in the condenser.

I would add no more than 3 cans of R-134a, and monitor the center vent temperature with a dial-type thermometer (not an IR temp gun). When you see more than a 40 degree drop in temps, you're probably there. Be ready with a large container of hot water, as the last can of refrigerant will not want to go into the system. You dunk the can in hot water to warm it and force the last of the refrigerant into the system. The system may not take it all, in which case you just disconnect the can (with 1/4 of it left) and move on. It's better to slightly undercharge the system, and if it's nice and cold, that's more important than a 1-2 oz. swing either way.

You are right in saying that any regular Joe can do A/C work with some care and instruction. It's very satisfying to fix your own A/C for a couple hundred dollars vs. a $1500 quote.
the can of oil is key advice imho
 
there are cans of refrigerant R134, and there are cans of oil. Some cans of r134 have a bit of oil in them, but if the system has been completely evacuated, both r134 and the oil should be added back.

Well I bought the 12oz R134 cans already, so that's what I am going to use. But I am still just a little confused about the oil. The FSM says to do the following...

1. Evacuate the system.
2. Replace the condenser.
3. Pull a vacuum and hold.
4. Add 1.76 oz of oil.
5. Recharge the system through the manifold service line.

If evacuating the system meant that all the oil was removed then it would say so I would think, but it just lists the amount based on the component you are replacing.
 
Also, I am thinking of going with a Denso for the condenser vs OEM. Every penny counts and this is a pretty simple component and I am not 100% sure that's even the issue although the oil on the condenser and bent fins makes me think it is. I think the shop that replaced the radiator likely damaged the condenser. I'm pretty sure they damaged the high pressure line when the pulled the radiator out too.
Where did you find an OEM Denso condenser? Every one I've seen shows backordered so I'm stuck with buying a $80-$100 aftermarket one, or an original for about $350...
 
Where did you find an OEM Denso condenser? Every one I've seen shows backordered so I'm stuck with buying a $80-$100 aftermarket one, or an original for about $350...
It seems to be available? But I haven't called to see if it's actually backordered or not... I am probably going to order the Denso unit from Amazon unless someone can convince me that it would be a bad idea.


And here is the Denso one on Amazon. Note this is a bigger condenser for the LX and certain LC with Rear AC
Amazon product ASIN B001DCFESM
 
It seems to be available? But I haven't called to see if it's actually backordered or not... I am probably going to order the Denso unit from Amazon unless someone can convince me that it would be a bad idea.


And here is the Denso one on Amazon. Note this is a bigger condenser for the LX and certain LC with Rear AC
Amazon product ASIN B001DCFESM
I ordered that 6 weeks ago from Amazon.... Still waiting.

They are on backorder with Denso with no true eta from what I can tell.
 
I ordered that 6 weeks ago from Amazon.... Still waiting.

They are on backorder with Denso with no true eta from what I can tell.
Damn. Okay then.... I really don't want to drop the money on OEM either.
 
Damn. Okay then.... I really don't want to drop the money on OEM either.
I'm seriously thinking about trying one of the cheaper $80 ones. That's 20% of the price of the Toyota one and it's just a bunch of tubes for gods sake... As long as it fits, and holds vacuum, then it should be good for at least a few years. They don't look too difficult to swap out, and it's only about $30 worth of r134 at risk.

Now it's just a matter of finding the most reliable aftermarket manufacturer that has stock. My 1st choice is Denso, of course, but that's months away at best...
 
I'm seriously thinking about trying one of the cheaper $80 ones. That's 20% of the price of the Toyota one and it's just a bunch of tubes for gods sake... As long as it fits, and holds vacuum, then it should be good for at least a few years. They don't look too difficult to swap out, and it's only about $30 worth of r134 at risk.

Now it's just a matter of finding the most reliable aftermarket manufacturer that has stock. My 1st choice is Denso, of course, but that's months away at best...
My only hesitation on those would be that some of the cheap condensers might not have as many tubes and fins. So it might hold a vacuum but not cool as efficiently.
 
My only hesitation on those would be that some of the cheap condensers might not have as many tubes and fins. So it might hold a vacuum but not cool as efficiently.
That's why I like Amazon Prime... Order, inspect, and return if not satisfied. :)
 
That's why I like Amazon Prime... Order, inspect, and return if not satisfied. :)
Yeah, not a bad idea! I can no longer get R143 in Washington State so if I did this and it didn't hold/leaked, I would have to refill it. I have nine cans at home that I got during my recent trip to Idaho, so I can do this three times.
 
I might try this one... It looks to be good quality, has six satisfied customers on Amazon, tube count looks the same.... Can't be that bad right? lol

Amazon product ASIN B004J2UVMW
 

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