Installed a spectra on my 4runner 10 years ago, no issues. I realize not exact comparison, but FWIW.
AC Condenser leak? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter shtbrwn86
- Start date
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Spectra lists 2 different models for the LX470 and the LC. One is significantly smaller than the other, I'm assuming one is for rear AC cars, and the other is without. The OEM part number for my 2005, 88460-60903, cross references to the 7-3024 number
Land Cruiser Base - 2000-2007
TYPE: Parallel Flow
HEIGHT: 26-9/16 In.
WIDTH: 20-5/16 In.
THICKNESS: 5/8 In.
INLET TYPE: Block Fitting
OUTLET TYPE: Block Fitting
POP. CODE: D
Land Cruiser Base - 2000-2007
TYPE: Parallel Flow
HEIGHT: 23-1/4 In.
WIDTH: 17-1/4 In.
THICKNESS: 5/8 In.
INLET TYPEBlock Fitting
OUTLET TYPEBlock Fitting
POP. CODED
7-3024
Part Specifications
LX470 - 1999Land Cruiser Base - 2000-2007
TYPE: Parallel Flow
HEIGHT: 26-9/16 In.
WIDTH: 20-5/16 In.
THICKNESS: 5/8 In.
INLET TYPE: Block Fitting
OUTLET TYPE: Block Fitting
POP. CODE: D
7-3025
Part Specifications
LX470 - 1999-2007Land Cruiser Base - 2000-2007
TYPE: Parallel Flow
HEIGHT: 23-1/4 In.
WIDTH: 17-1/4 In.
THICKNESS: 5/8 In.
INLET TYPEBlock Fitting
OUTLET TYPEBlock Fitting
POP. CODED
Last edited:
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #24
That makes sense. Wasn't rear AC standard on all years for LX and then standard for all LC after like 2000 or something? What's funny is their site clearly lists two different condensers for the LC100, but for the LX470 they ONLY list the smaller condenser. I am pretty sure the larger condenser for the LC100 with REAR A/C will work for my LX. If it doesn't then back to Amazon it goes. At least Amazon only recommends the 7-3024 for my LX.
One more thing - just went through a similar experience with my compressor. Had oil questions myself, not sure I got it 100% right but got close.
Recharged my system myself with the cheap harbor freight vacuum that attaches to an air compressor. So just trying to give you some confidence that it’s not rocket science, if I can do it, anybody can.
Recharged my system myself with the cheap harbor freight vacuum that attaches to an air compressor. So just trying to give you some confidence that it’s not rocket science, if I can do it, anybody can.
I think I have a leak in my condenser as well. Mine looks almost exactly like yours under UV - thanks for the picture
Anything else to order besides 88460-60903 - do I need any o-rings, dryer stuff, or other parts that I should replace in the process?
I'll probably just go OEM rather than Spectra, but I'm curious to hear how the Spectra has worked out for folks.
Also if there are any videos, writeups, or other tips / gotchas for the replacement, I'd be appreciative for a link to other threads or info.
Anything else to order besides 88460-60903 - do I need any o-rings, dryer stuff, or other parts that I should replace in the process?
I'll probably just go OEM rather than Spectra, but I'm curious to hear how the Spectra has worked out for folks.
Also if there are any videos, writeups, or other tips / gotchas for the replacement, I'd be appreciative for a link to other threads or info.
Short answer: yes it stopped working.
It got warm enough that it was unpleasant to drive in the 80-90 degree heat that we often get here. I measured like 70's coming from the vents and about 10psi on the low side. After fully discharging and doing a vacuum leak test for a few hours, I refilled it and got 40s out of the vents.
What I'm not sure about is why the leak test was fine. Why did it hold vacuum for a few hours but also leak enough to discharge down to 10psi? Fast forward a few weeks and it's starting to lose charge again.
I can't say for sure, but I suspect that the car wash attendant spraying a pressure washer at the front of the car may have damaged the condenser. I bought a freon detector and it's not signaling at the radiator so I'm not SURE if that's where the leak is, but there's a bunch of oily residue there. Maybe I'll clean that off and see if it returns.
I didn't find any dye under the car in the lines that go to the rear, but I also purchased a rear A/C block kit as an alternative.
-----
I'm gonna take it to a HVAC shop and see what they say before I start ordering parts just so I don't chase my tail.
It got warm enough that it was unpleasant to drive in the 80-90 degree heat that we often get here. I measured like 70's coming from the vents and about 10psi on the low side. After fully discharging and doing a vacuum leak test for a few hours, I refilled it and got 40s out of the vents.
What I'm not sure about is why the leak test was fine. Why did it hold vacuum for a few hours but also leak enough to discharge down to 10psi? Fast forward a few weeks and it's starting to lose charge again.
I can't say for sure, but I suspect that the car wash attendant spraying a pressure washer at the front of the car may have damaged the condenser. I bought a freon detector and it's not signaling at the radiator so I'm not SURE if that's where the leak is, but there's a bunch of oily residue there. Maybe I'll clean that off and see if it returns.
I didn't find any dye under the car in the lines that go to the rear, but I also purchased a rear A/C block kit as an alternative.
-----
I'm gonna take it to a HVAC shop and see what they say before I start ordering parts just so I don't chase my tail.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #30
Mine also held a vacuum all three times I had a shop test it. My guess is the spot where there is a leak seals under vacuum and then leaks under pressure.
Also I’m pretty sure mine was damaged when I had the radiator replaced by a shop. Started slow and then got worse over time.
That's good to hear - at least I'm not crazy
I was able to get the freon sniffer to signal at the condenser so I think that confirms it for me - condenser is definitely bad. I'll be ordering parts shortly
If the aftermarket condensers are as good as the aftermarket radiators… stick with Toyota. I have only been disappointed in aftermarket parts for my LX.
I find it ironic that as these trucks age parts that made it 15+ years and hundreds of thousands of miles get replaced with garbage aftermarket pieces. These arent landfill German vehicles. Buy the Mr T part and worry about it in 15 years and 200k miles.
I find it ironic that as these trucks age parts that made it 15+ years and hundreds of thousands of miles get replaced with garbage aftermarket pieces. These arent landfill German vehicles. Buy the Mr T part and worry about it in 15 years and 200k miles.
Yeah, I REALLY wish the Denso units would come back in stock as I hate using questionable parts, even if they are 1/5 the price of Toyota ones. I'm about to cancel my Denso order at Amazon and just go Toyota direct. I hate overpaying, but I hate doing work 2+ times due to inferior parts even more.
I just did my AC system a few months ago, I kept having this leak, got fed up, replaced all the main components, besides the high and low lines.
I ended up getting a Denso compressor, Denso Evaporator, and Spectra Condenser.
I did the Evaporator myself and got new O rings for the system and used nylog blue on all the O rings. The vacuum and refill, was done at the shop didn't want to be bothered with it especially when they have the machine that adds the exact amount of oil and refrigerant.
It's been 3 months ice cold air and no issues
I ended up getting a Denso compressor, Denso Evaporator, and Spectra Condenser.
I did the Evaporator myself and got new O rings for the system and used nylog blue on all the O rings. The vacuum and refill, was done at the shop didn't want to be bothered with it especially when they have the machine that adds the exact amount of oil and refrigerant.
It's been 3 months ice cold air and no issues
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
I just did my AC system a few months ago, I kept having this leak, got fed up, replaced all the main components, besides the high and low lines.
I ended up getting a Denso compressor, Denso Evaporator, and Spectra Condenser.
I did the Evaporator myself and got new O rings for the system and used nylog blue on all the O rings. The vacuum and refill, was done at the shop didn't want to be bothered with it especially when they have the machine that adds the exact amount of oil and refrigerant.
It's been 3 months ice cold air and no issues
When you say you use the nylon blue on the o-rings is that in place of the mineral oil or compressor oil?
Yes I forgot to mention that, on the manual it says to use compressor oil on all the O-rings, after doing some reasearch nylog blue holds the seal far better and maintains the viscosity far longer then just using oil.
My case my o rings dried up and the leak happened at all the seals. I capped off my rear AC a while back, I assumed it was that, but after running dye I saw it leak from the seals; compressor, condenser, etc. My condenser was also starting to leak so it was time.
It's not bad per say, from what I understand it dries up because of the reaction R-134 has with the oil. It causes the compressor to seize after awhile, but it should be ok since you only used it on the O-rings. Worst case your seals may leak, fix it then.
