I’m not sure I would consider 253,000 miles premature failure!
ABS, VSC Trac VSC OFF , and Brake Lights Lit, Constant Beep or Alarm Sound, No Brake Pressure (1 Viewer)
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ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
No doubt
- Thread starter
- #43
Can you link to any vides that are a good reference to actually doing the rebuild of the MC? I tried to find some and the closest i can find is
But thats for a 4 Runner, even though the MC assem ly seems very similar.
I'd like to do it for all the reasons everyone does, but the idea of potentially marring a mating surface inside the MC while i'm tryign to get some stubborn snap ring out really intimidates me. I'd really like to be able to watch someone do all the hard parts in a video. I pulled this parts list from your rebuild parts list
I also ordered the following parts from McGeorge Toyota:
| 47547-12030 | Plug Bleeder (4) |
| 31478-30010 | Cap Bleeder Plug (4) |
| 04493-60330 | Master Cylinder Repair Kit (1) |
| 47255-16010 | Reservoir Assembly Grommet (2) |
| 31417-35010 | Grommet (1) |
This is to complete the MC rebuild/reconditioning. Plus, I have no idea what condition my bleeders are in, so... might as well!
I see that includes new bleeders for the calipers as well. Is this parts list any different for my 2007 vs your (2000)? Do i need any thing else?
- Thread starter
- #44
I'm pretty disappointed in my local toyota dealership that they were unwilling to lower the price on the master cylinder rebuild to match McGeorge Toyota. McGeorge Price - $67, Local - ~$115 and they would not come down a single penny. Also, McGeorge inventory system told me the two grommets in the list above, 47255-16010 and 31417-35010 did not fit my 2007. I ordered them anyway as they did not seem to have any substitutes for an 07, and it's unlikely that every other parts actually fit and the grommets don't. Will be here on wednesday, so i obviously should have ordered this several days ago so i could have my truck back together this weekend. I'll get the motor today and have to wait another 4-5 days to even begin bleeding the brakes.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
It is a shame when the local dealership doesn't want to earn your business. Sorry to hear. Even though you need to wait, at least you have cheaper options available.
- Thread starter
- #46
I found another video of the Motor replacement itself and a discussion of the failure
My master cylinder parts will [finally] be here Saturday. So i'm going to assemble my brake bleeder bottle and all the DOT3 fluid I should need to bleed everything.
This channel also sells the motor separately
www.wholesalepartsexpress.com
My master cylinder parts will [finally] be here Saturday. So i'm going to assemble my brake bleeder bottle and all the DOT3 fluid I should need to bleed everything.
This channel also sells the motor separately
2003 - 2007 Land Cruiser / LX470 New Abs Pump and Master Cylinder Repair Electric Motor - Wholesale Parts Express
New 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 land cruiser and lx470 abs motor
www.wholesalepartsexpress.com
- Thread starter
- #47
So the parts for the master cylinder came early. I'll post some pics tomorrow when it's all back together. But for now i have a question. I got the master cylinder reassembled and reinstalled in the truck. I topped off the reservoir and pumped the brake pedal a bunch of times. It went all the way to the floor about 80-100 times before i started feeling it build any pressure. I turned the key to the on position to see if the booster motor would turn on and it would consistently turn on for about 4-5 seconds and turn off, every 10 seconds or so. I didn't have my bleeder bottle and hoses ready, and i haven't replaced the bleeder screws on the calipers yet. I plan to do that tomorrow. My question, if anyone sees this before tomorrow, is shouldn't that booster motor keep running until it builds pressure to the pressure sensor? In @MissouriLC rebuild thread, his booster pump would run 40-50+ seconds before turning off. I did try to bleed the high pressure line from the accumulator and the individual caliper lines at the master cylinder, but nothing would ever really shoot out under pressure while i pumped the pedals. So i highly doubt it's able to build any pressure. It seems odd that it turn off after only 4-5 seconds of running. Any thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #48
Back in before anyone could respond 
Got up early Saturday and started the real bleeding. I also timed the booster motor run times a little more carefully. First i wanted to point out a couple of things to anyone else doing this job.
1 - It took a long time for my dash lights and audible alarm to finally turn off and go back to normal. My guess is that this is due to the brake pressure sensor not building up sufficient hydraulic pressure until you have the major brake components nearly fully bled of any air. It will likely take the better part of 2 quarts of fluid added to get enough fluid back into the reservoir, master cylinder, pump and accumulator before your audible alarm will stop.
2- I used 4 full 32 oz quarts of Valvoline DOT3 fluid plus a few onces of another bottle i had on the shelf to fully bleed the entire system. I would recommend if you are shopping for parts to get 5 quarts.
3- I have two mini-me helpers so pressing the brake pedal, watching the fluid level and actually cracking the bleeders under the truck is a relatively well coordinated process. It helps to have help.
4 - Build the brake bleeder bottle before you try to do this with any other tube-and-bucket "hacked together from what i had laying around" brake fluid collection method. I did not, and one on of my "cycle the ABS" drives i went to two auto parts stores trying to find the clear/yellow fuel line i needed. Found it at O'reilly in Georgia and bought an Orange Fanta for the mini-me companions to drink on the way home. That hose, two drill bits and three sugar drink filled tummies later and i was kicking myself for not having built that sooner. You garage floor will thank you for building yours before you start this process.
5 - The most frustrating part of the entire process for me was actually getting the brake booster/accumulator/reservoir/master cylinder assembly back into the engine bay and into place on the firewall. Dealing with 4 hard hydraulic lines, 4+ electrical connections, and numerous vacuum lines was difficult and i was worried i was going to kink something. You will need good lights and a ladder to be able to maneuver this assembly back into place. i put a mini-me upside down in the drivers seat ready to thread the 4 nuts on as soon as i got it all through the holes and into place.
6 - While waiting for the booster motor to ship out, get rebuilt, and returned i should have, at a minimum, rebuilt the brake calipers/pistons, turned rotors, and replaced the brake pads. If i was going to do this again, i would plan on doing a full brake pad/rotor job, rebuilding the calipers, and if stainless steel brakes lines are your thing, might as well check that box too. With all the bleeding and fluid i went through those extra steps would have been no big deal. This electric motor rebuild is the long pole in the tent from a down time standpoint and you are looking at about 7-10 days downtime minimum. Mine took longer because i tried to find a local shop that could rebuild the motor and i was doing this in the middle of an election and Thanksgiving. If you live near any city with an Industrial base, there are likely local shops that can rebuild industrial electric motors, but the commutator on this motor is going to be what throws them off and may ultimately cause them to decline the job. I ultimately called, emailed, sent pics and shipped my motor to M & M Forklift in St. Louis. $190 plus ~$45 total for insured shipping both ways. My truck was out of commission for 3+ weeks total, and that is plenty of time to take care of some major maintenance/upgrades in the drive line. We did this during the pandemic so i didn't need to travel to an office everyday, and have 3rd vehicle as a spare so i was very blessed to not be rushed during this process. Even 2+ weeks of downtime is plenty of days to swap out the CV axles in the front (both of my outer boots are completely torn), and possibly even taking off the front and rear diff's to send them to the guy that does e-locker installs.
7 - On my cruiser the front break bleeder screws are longer than the rear, and the new ones i bought was a set of four rear bleeder screws. While this worked, the front bleeder is recessed further into the wheel well and you run a greater risk of rounding over a couple fo corners on the bleeder screw. There also isn't enough room to fit a flare nut wrench on the front bleeder screw if you replace them with the short bleeders. If i did this again i woudl order 2 {short} rear bleeder screws and 2 {long} front bleeder screws.
Got up early Saturday and started the real bleeding. I also timed the booster motor run times a little more carefully. First i wanted to point out a couple of things to anyone else doing this job.
1 - It took a long time for my dash lights and audible alarm to finally turn off and go back to normal. My guess is that this is due to the brake pressure sensor not building up sufficient hydraulic pressure until you have the major brake components nearly fully bled of any air. It will likely take the better part of 2 quarts of fluid added to get enough fluid back into the reservoir, master cylinder, pump and accumulator before your audible alarm will stop.
2- I used 4 full 32 oz quarts of Valvoline DOT3 fluid plus a few onces of another bottle i had on the shelf to fully bleed the entire system. I would recommend if you are shopping for parts to get 5 quarts.
3- I have two mini-me helpers so pressing the brake pedal, watching the fluid level and actually cracking the bleeders under the truck is a relatively well coordinated process. It helps to have help.
4 - Build the brake bleeder bottle before you try to do this with any other tube-and-bucket "hacked together from what i had laying around" brake fluid collection method. I did not, and one on of my "cycle the ABS" drives i went to two auto parts stores trying to find the clear/yellow fuel line i needed. Found it at O'reilly in Georgia and bought an Orange Fanta for the mini-me companions to drink on the way home. That hose, two drill bits and three sugar drink filled tummies later and i was kicking myself for not having built that sooner. You garage floor will thank you for building yours before you start this process.
5 - The most frustrating part of the entire process for me was actually getting the brake booster/accumulator/reservoir/master cylinder assembly back into the engine bay and into place on the firewall. Dealing with 4 hard hydraulic lines, 4+ electrical connections, and numerous vacuum lines was difficult and i was worried i was going to kink something. You will need good lights and a ladder to be able to maneuver this assembly back into place. i put a mini-me upside down in the drivers seat ready to thread the 4 nuts on as soon as i got it all through the holes and into place.
6 - While waiting for the booster motor to ship out, get rebuilt, and returned i should have, at a minimum, rebuilt the brake calipers/pistons, turned rotors, and replaced the brake pads. If i was going to do this again, i would plan on doing a full brake pad/rotor job, rebuilding the calipers, and if stainless steel brakes lines are your thing, might as well check that box too. With all the bleeding and fluid i went through those extra steps would have been no big deal. This electric motor rebuild is the long pole in the tent from a down time standpoint and you are looking at about 7-10 days downtime minimum. Mine took longer because i tried to find a local shop that could rebuild the motor and i was doing this in the middle of an election and Thanksgiving. If you live near any city with an Industrial base, there are likely local shops that can rebuild industrial electric motors, but the commutator on this motor is going to be what throws them off and may ultimately cause them to decline the job. I ultimately called, emailed, sent pics and shipped my motor to M & M Forklift in St. Louis. $190 plus ~$45 total for insured shipping both ways. My truck was out of commission for 3+ weeks total, and that is plenty of time to take care of some major maintenance/upgrades in the drive line. We did this during the pandemic so i didn't need to travel to an office everyday, and have 3rd vehicle as a spare so i was very blessed to not be rushed during this process. Even 2+ weeks of downtime is plenty of days to swap out the CV axles in the front (both of my outer boots are completely torn), and possibly even taking off the front and rear diff's to send them to the guy that does e-locker installs.
7 - On my cruiser the front break bleeder screws are longer than the rear, and the new ones i bought was a set of four rear bleeder screws. While this worked, the front bleeder is recessed further into the wheel well and you run a greater risk of rounding over a couple fo corners on the bleeder screw. There also isn't enough room to fit a flare nut wrench on the front bleeder screw if you replace them with the short bleeders. If i did this again i woudl order 2 {short} rear bleeder screws and 2 {long} front bleeder screws.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I use only front (longer) OEM bleeders on front and rear (shorter) OEM bleeders on rear. A deep 10mm 6 point socket can be used, when not or very tight.
I prime the master on the bench per FSM. I then install master, fill res 1/2 full and turn IG key on. Once motor stops, turn IG key off, presses brake pedal 40 time. I then add 50% new fluid to mix in res., then turn IG on again, wait for motor to stop, hold peddle down as rear bleeder opened. I draw fluid down in res this way, to near empty. Turn IG off, pump peddle 40 times again, add 50% fluid mix and turn IG on press brake pedal, open rear bleeder while peddle depressed. I repeat 5 times. This is to flush the accumulator.
Then flush at other rear bleeder until runs clear an no air in line. Than with IG key off pump peddle 20 time. After which, helper turns IG key on and it now stay on until done, pumping peddle 5 times between each bleed. Foot stays on brake peddle holding it down while a bleeder open always. RH front takes about 10 bleeds, LH about 7.
At this point flush and bleed done. Each bleeder is torque as done at that bleeder. Book is 8ft-lbf torque, but with high mileage I go to 10ft-lbf.
Now I test booster motor run time. But there is a catch, battery will now be weak. We need 12.7 volt measure at positive cable and a good ground point. Weak battery and we get longer than the allowable 40 second run time after evacuating accumulator. With 12.7V getting to a good motor and pump, over 40 seconds run time. Than either leak or air in system. Sometimes we've air in accumulator. This just need repeating the IG key off, pump peddle 40 times, IG key on until pump stops. Repeat 5 times.
I then drive on dirt or ice road at 35MPH and stomp on the brakes, repeating 4 time. I want to hear/feel the ABS activating.
FWIW: Not flushing brake fluid regularly, is a mistake IMHO. Using open bottles of brake fluid, with some short term exception based on how handled and what used for (like start of flush), is not recommended. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (water absorbing) so opening adds moisture. Over moisture will get in system fluid. Moisture will damage the master and caliper pistons beyond repair, requiring replacement.
In one video you post, where guy replace motor. He states corrosion on wire form driving through puddles. IMHO this is not the case unless perhaps submerged at a standstill with water level to the windows. I washed my 01LC engine bay including brake master many many many times over ~15 years. My wires and screws were like new. But I never overfilled the reservoir. Overfilling can lead to fluid coming out reservoir, and getting on brake control wires and into boots.
Out of abundance of caution. I've gone back to using or at least recommending only Toyota brake fluid be used in flush or adds. The Toyota/Lexus Dealership shops I know of, don't use the Toyota brake fluid. They use bulk, often which is Valvoline. But I'm seeing them replace way to many brake master (all Lexus & Toyota), could it be fluid related. The recall (non 100 series 05-07 brake master) was related to non OEM brake fluid being used!
Note: Toyota states the brake control wires and screws are not reusable.
I prime the master on the bench per FSM. I then install master, fill res 1/2 full and turn IG key on. Once motor stops, turn IG key off, presses brake pedal 40 time. I then add 50% new fluid to mix in res., then turn IG on again, wait for motor to stop, hold peddle down as rear bleeder opened. I draw fluid down in res this way, to near empty. Turn IG off, pump peddle 40 times again, add 50% fluid mix and turn IG on press brake pedal, open rear bleeder while peddle depressed. I repeat 5 times. This is to flush the accumulator.
Then flush at other rear bleeder until runs clear an no air in line. Than with IG key off pump peddle 20 time. After which, helper turns IG key on and it now stay on until done, pumping peddle 5 times between each bleed. Foot stays on brake peddle holding it down while a bleeder open always. RH front takes about 10 bleeds, LH about 7.
At this point flush and bleed done. Each bleeder is torque as done at that bleeder. Book is 8ft-lbf torque, but with high mileage I go to 10ft-lbf.
Now I test booster motor run time. But there is a catch, battery will now be weak. We need 12.7 volt measure at positive cable and a good ground point. Weak battery and we get longer than the allowable 40 second run time after evacuating accumulator. With 12.7V getting to a good motor and pump, over 40 seconds run time. Than either leak or air in system. Sometimes we've air in accumulator. This just need repeating the IG key off, pump peddle 40 times, IG key on until pump stops. Repeat 5 times.
I then drive on dirt or ice road at 35MPH and stomp on the brakes, repeating 4 time. I want to hear/feel the ABS activating.
FWIW: Not flushing brake fluid regularly, is a mistake IMHO. Using open bottles of brake fluid, with some short term exception based on how handled and what used for (like start of flush), is not recommended. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (water absorbing) so opening adds moisture. Over moisture will get in system fluid. Moisture will damage the master and caliper pistons beyond repair, requiring replacement.
In one video you post, where guy replace motor. He states corrosion on wire form driving through puddles. IMHO this is not the case unless perhaps submerged at a standstill with water level to the windows. I washed my 01LC engine bay including brake master many many many times over ~15 years. My wires and screws were like new. But I never overfilled the reservoir. Overfilling can lead to fluid coming out reservoir, and getting on brake control wires and into boots.
Out of abundance of caution. I've gone back to using or at least recommending only Toyota brake fluid be used in flush or adds. The Toyota/Lexus Dealership shops I know of, don't use the Toyota brake fluid. They use bulk, often which is Valvoline. But I'm seeing them replace way to many brake master (all Lexus & Toyota), could it be fluid related. The recall (non 100 series 05-07 brake master) was related to non OEM brake fluid being used!
Note: Toyota states the brake control wires and screws are not reusable.
The price for this repair at a Toyota Dealership in central California is $4600… $3314 for just the replacement part… I know this because my LX470 lit up with the alarm yesterday while I was about 200 miles from home heading to the Mojave Road. I pulled off of I5 at the next exit and searched through these forums trying to figure out what was going on. I tell you, these things are a bear to stop when this happens. I ended up driving 30 miles to the closest dealership; white knuckling it the whole way. They gave me a loner Tacoma to drive and I’ll head back down in a week to pick up the repaired Lexus.
- Thread starter
- #51
It sounds like your dealer quoted you the replacement part cost for the entire ABS/Brake Booster/Reservoir assembly. That is the single most expensive way to fix this issue short of buying a new Land Cruiser. Most dealerships will not quote you a price on just the booster motor but it is listed in their Toyota parts system, usually for around $745 as of the time I was looking. I would HIGHLY recommend that you tell them you want the entire old part assembly back as part of this repair. It will include the booster motor which most likely only has a worn out commutator (which can be rewound for $190+ shipping), the gear driven booster pump, the master cylinder, the reservoir AND the ABS valve system and control board. You might find some takers on those parts here on MUD that could significantly reduce your total out of pocket costs. Sorry that happened to you in such a way to leave you no alternative other than the dealership and a VERY expensive part swap.
Is there a cheaper option vs the stock brake/master? I heard you can use a unit from an older model and just no longer have ABS. An 80 master maybe?
I have all these same lights on and the dang buzzer, but can't afford $3000 right now. Plus I sadly might need to sell this in the next few months to buy a diesel truck for work.
I have all these same lights on and the dang buzzer, but can't afford $3000 right now. Plus I sadly might need to sell this in the next few months to buy a diesel truck for work.
Yep… all shiny and new. They ended up giving me a “nice guy” discount so the replacement only cost $4432… I did get a Tacoma lender for a week… only made me miss the LX even more.It sounds like your dealer quoted you the replacement part cost for the entire ABS/Brake Booster/Reservoir assembly. That is the single most expensive way to fix this issue short of buying a new Land Cruiser. Most dealerships will not quote you a price on just the booster motor but it is listed in their Toyota parts system, usually for around $745 as of the time I was looking. I would HIGHLY recommend that you tell them you want the entire old part assembly back as part of this repair. It will include the booster motor which most likely only has a worn out commutator (which can be rewound for $190+ shipping), the gear driven booster pump, the master cylinder, the reservoir AND the ABS valve system and control board. You might find some takers on those parts here on MUD that could significantly reduce your total out of pocket costs. Sorry that happened to you in such a way to leave you no alternative other than the dealership and a VERY expensive part swap.
Hi all
I have an 06 Hdj100r Sahara with the tems hydro suspension.
Last 3-4 days I’ve been driving in incredibly dusty and done multiple water crossings to about 40cm deep so not that deep.
On long 4 hrs drive home today fully loaded in 100 degree heat about 2 mins from home my vsc, abs, handbrake light and buzzing alarm came on. Pulling into the drive I almost crashed into the gate as my brakes no longer seem to have any power. An hour later I moved the car and same lights and buzzing alarm were on. Vehicle is undrivable.
Checked the brake fluid - full to the brim.
What are my potential solutions?
Disconnect the battery?
Wash underneath the car?
Vehicle has done 250,000kms. Trouble free.
Was fully loaded and in ‘low’ height if that makes any difference. Travelling back from a camping weekend.
No emergency braking done at all.
I have an 06 Hdj100r Sahara with the tems hydro suspension.
Last 3-4 days I’ve been driving in incredibly dusty and done multiple water crossings to about 40cm deep so not that deep.
On long 4 hrs drive home today fully loaded in 100 degree heat about 2 mins from home my vsc, abs, handbrake light and buzzing alarm came on. Pulling into the drive I almost crashed into the gate as my brakes no longer seem to have any power. An hour later I moved the car and same lights and buzzing alarm were on. Vehicle is undrivable.
Checked the brake fluid - full to the brim.
What are my potential solutions?
Disconnect the battery?
Wash underneath the car?
Vehicle has done 250,000kms. Trouble free.
Was fully loaded and in ‘low’ height if that makes any difference. Travelling back from a camping weekend.
No emergency braking done at all.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Some LC & LX outside of North American, have vacuumed power assist brake booster. A picture of your would be make easy to determine.
If you've the electric motor booster type brake master, as we do in USA. Pump brake pedal 40 times, with IC key off. Check that level is at max full line or near (full to brim is bad). Turn IG key ON. Time how long booster motor runs. With battery at 12.4 volt or great, you should hear it motor run, as pump draws down fluid level. For 30 to 40 second motor run time. If motor does not run, it's dead. Best is to replace the whole master assembly.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
Dam.Some LC & LX outside of North American, have vacuumed power assist brake booster. A picture of your would be make easy to determine.
If you've the electric motor booster type brake master, as we do in USA. Pump brake pedal 40 times, with IC key off. Check that level is at max full line or near (full to brim is bad). Turn IG key ON. Time how long booster motor runs. With battery at 12.4 volt or great, you should hear it motor run, as pump draws down fluid level. For 30 to 40 second motor run time. If motor does not run, it's dead. Best is to replace the whole master assembly.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
Can I ask why full brake fluid is bad?
Is this a part that just wears out? From reading the threads it’s a worn out electric motor.
Can you get them rebuilt?
Is using impex to source the bmc an option?
Not sure how much one of these assemblies is down here in Australia yet
Just read your linked article - you are a guru!!! That is an awesome lot of detail and analysis.Some LC & LX outside of North American, have vacuumed power assist brake booster. A picture of your would be make easy to determine.
If you've the electric motor booster type brake master, as we do in USA. Pump brake pedal 40 times, with IC key off. Check that level is at max full line or near (full to brim is bad). Turn IG key ON. Time how long booster motor runs. With battery at 12.4 volt or great, you should hear it motor run, as pump draws down fluid level. For 30 to 40 second motor run time. If motor does not run, it's dead. Best is to replace the whole master assembly.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
So as you say the electric motor seems to be the culprit.
Can I see the breather from the open bonnet or is it hidden ?
Do people get these motors rewound with new copper or not really? Is repairing the motor false economy because another part will soon fail in the bmc?
Again your article is just awesome.
Some pics of my bmc.
I tried the 40 taps on the brake pedal with key out then put key in and all lights and buzzing alarm remain lit up and sounding.
I assume (rather stupidly) this is not something I can spray wd40 on and it will be fixed ?
Vehicle is clearly undrivable as can’t stop quickly
I tried the 40 taps on the brake pedal with key out then put key in and all lights and buzzing alarm remain lit up and sounding.
I assume (rather stupidly) this is not something I can spray wd40 on and it will be fixed ?
Vehicle is clearly undrivable as can’t stop quickly
2001LC
SILVER Star
Motor can be rebuilt. But often, afterwards, seals in the master fail. You'd still have brakes, but seal failing would cause motor to burn-up! Eventually and back to where you are now.
