- Thread starter
- #101
Haven't yet. It should clear, but if not it'll self-clearance after a few trips out.
I think she'll flex like mad.
About time I did a buildup thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter xjnation
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Haven't yet. It should clear, but if not it'll self-clearance after a few trips out.
I think she'll flex like mad.
I think your right it will have plenty of flex cannt wait to see some action photos
- Thread starter
- #103
The truck is getting pretty close to being done. My whiteboard list is definitely smaller. Here are a few of the things I've done lately...
This is my anti-wrap bar. I built it a while back but havent posted it yet. It's solid mounted at the axle end and a big johnny joint with the factory leaf spring shackle mounted on top of the square crossmember. Thats a mouthfull. The JJ is parallel to the t-case output. I have the mount at the axle pretty solid but I still am going to run more bracing down the backside.
This is my anti-wrap bar. I built it a while back but havent posted it yet. It's solid mounted at the axle end and a big johnny joint with the factory leaf spring shackle mounted on top of the square crossmember. Thats a mouthfull. The JJ is parallel to the t-case output. I have the mount at the axle pretty solid but I still am going to run more bracing down the backside.
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- #104
Here are the seatbelts I got. They are out of a private plane. I lucked out because I won them on ebay without seeing anything more than the lap belts. The harnesses are the "y" style, inverted "y" style? Whatever they're called it's what type I needed for the seats. I burned in some mounts rignt to the seat cradle I built so it will all come out as an assembly. I have to unhook the passenger side to flip the seat foward, but it's not too big of a deal. I just cant leave the shoulder straps bolted in until they are needed. I might use a carabiener or 2 for it.
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- #105
I got the front shocks mounted. With the 60 series steering box I didn't want to buy ford towers just to find they don't work, so I built my towers from 3/16 steel. The driver side tower is a little narrower than I would have liked. Since the shock is not in a true vertical plane with the tower it could possibly twist with enough force. I am going to run a brace from tower to tower over the motor when I can get more tubing. The passenger side is alot closer to what I wanted. It is 5-6 inches wide, the driver is closer to 3-4. Those are ballparks, I did them a while ago. I cut strips of the 3/16 and clamped them upright in the vice. Then I basically stood on the and pressed from the ceiling to get a bend. I planned on a much sharper bend But the radius made for a strong design. After I had the bends I laid them oon their side and traced a design I liked. Each is 5 pieces of metal and should be pretty stout. The flat top is even with the top of the fender.
- Thread starter
- #106
More after they were painted and mounted.
I'm not a huge fan of how the rezzies are mounted. I'd really just like to take them off but no can do.
I'm not a huge fan of how the rezzies are mounted. I'd really just like to take them off but no can do.
- Thread starter
- #107
Here is a console i built. 16ga steel all cut with the plas. It is made to mount on the seat frame.
- Thread starter
- #108
That was last week, here's what i did today. I had been planning on painting it black but I really didn't like how it was going to rub the seats as they moved. I went to a fabric store and bought 1 yard of marine vinyl to cover it. I should've taken pictures of how I did it. I laid the console on its side and traced it out. Then I put an aluminum yard stick against it and traced out a 1" ummm "flange" I guess, for no better word. Then I rolled it and traced as I went, making 1 big pattern for the back and both sides. Mada another piece for the front and wrapped the console with the vinyl inside-out. I started using straight pins at first but they were a PITA so I got out a stapler. And don't worry, it's not held together by staples. I will tell you one thing, though..... Staples are are a good way to tear up the wifes sewing machine. I stitched it all together and now it just slips over the console. It it held by a trim-loc edging top and buttom. Everywhere it wraps around an edge it has the edging holding it. It makes it really easy to pull the cover back off, whick I've already had to do, and makes it easy to get the material tight. It really fits like a glove.
- Thread starter
- #109
A while back I'd bought some 180* mandrel bends for the exhaust. They've kinda just been sitting in a pile in the garage because I was dreading doing it. Once I finally comitted it really wasnt that bad. I had 3 2.25" bends, and 2 2.5" bends. I had it figured so I would have a 90" left of each. The driver side was a very tight fit, but it is away from fuel and brake lines. It runs along the frame, hangs a 90 at the square crossmember and straight between the crossmember and the t-case in a downward angle to the muffler. The passenger side needed a 30" bend and then a straight shot to the other inlet of the muffler. Maybe I should say outlet. It's a Borla muffler I ppicked up for $1 and is suppsed to be 1 inlet, 2 outlet but I reversed it. It's a flow-through design so it wont hurt anything. The muffler is angled up between the wrap bar and the frame. It then sends the exhaust out above the frame and below the body in the only place theres enough room to do that, then out from a hole I cut between the wheelwell and the door. It's nice and high everywhere except where it drops beluw the crossmember to the muffler. Really no other way to do it. I haven't finished welding from the muffler out because I'don't know if I like it there of not. I want it to be able to be pulled without ANY cutting, and that would make that unlikely. Mainly due to how tight it is between the frame and body.
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- #110
- Thread starter
- #111
Those were all while I was piecing it, here it is welded ready to go back in. They run above the t-case mount and I don't like that. I'm going to eventually build a new mount that will go above the exhaust with a skid to protect the case and the exhaust where it dips down.
The biggest bitch about the whole thing is my fuel pump died, so I can't even hear it until sometime this week. And it's already been a week since I built it. Two weeks the exhaust has been sitting there, taunting me. I don't know if it leaks yet, how it sounds, anything........Oh yeah, I already cut the exit hole for the exhaust, too. So I eithher figure a way to make it work like I want, or have a big ass hole in the body just for the hell of it.
- Thread starter
- #112
I got a new fuel pump in it and it runs again!! Doesn't sound half bad. Also ran new drain tubes for the cowl vent and built a filler plate for the vent so it is now non-functioning. I even pushed it out in the driveway and washed the inch of dust off of it. That's probably the last bath it'll have for a while.
I'm thinking since the exhaust went so easily I might get some 3" mandrel bends and build an air intake. I have a nasty brake line leak at the front axle so I'll be looking into that soon. I also got 2 Neapco p-n N2-2-799 which will allow a 1310 u-joint to bolt to the coarse spline diff flange. Driveshafts will be a project soon.
I acquired a Pioneer indash navigation unit for next to nothing so the dash got a bigger hole in the center of it. I moved the 3 factory knobs I'm still using to the upper row so it would fit. I built some simple speaker plates for the front and mounted a pair of speakers in the rear. They are 5.25" marine speakers. I've got it wired so I can hook up a portable DVD player in the rear and also watch up front. The nav unit was pretty un-necessary but like I said, it was cheap. Pics to come soon.
I'm thinking since the exhaust went so easily I might get some 3" mandrel bends and build an air intake. I have a nasty brake line leak at the front axle so I'll be looking into that soon. I also got 2 Neapco p-n N2-2-799 which will allow a 1310 u-joint to bolt to the coarse spline diff flange. Driveshafts will be a project soon.
I acquired a Pioneer indash navigation unit for next to nothing so the dash got a bigger hole in the center of it. I moved the 3 factory knobs I'm still using to the upper row so it would fit. I built some simple speaker plates for the front and mounted a pair of speakers in the rear. They are 5.25" marine speakers. I've got it wired so I can hook up a portable DVD player in the rear and also watch up front. The nav unit was pretty un-necessary but like I said, it was cheap. Pics to come soon.
Dude your an animal! Did the front tires clear the rezi's?? Are they going to at full stuff? Not trying to nit pick just wondering!
- Thread starter
- #114
Yeah, nit pick away. I don't know if they'll clear or not. I'm going to have to mount them somewhere else. Probably on the inside of the inner fender.
Man your moving along, I've been collecting parts and hardly got anything done.
Man I love this build good work as always
- Thread starter
- #117
Teasers..........
Truck runs. Drives 65 easily, tracks straight, stops good. I need to get my lazy ass out and take more pics to post up. Maybe this weekend. More to come. P.S. the 4.3 pulls very well.
So whadya think....Should I trade in the 35s for some 24s?
Truck runs. Drives 65 easily, tracks straight, stops good. I need to get my lazy ass out and take more pics to post up. Maybe this weekend. More to come. P.S. the 4.3 pulls very well.
So whadya think....Should I trade in the 35s for some 24s?
landcruiserrich
Bench Wheeler
Nice work!
x2 on the "Nice work"!! Excellent build, and those 24's will be awesome on the trail, do they make 24"TSL's?
I'm jealous, all I've been able to complete is rebuild the front and rear axles. I've had to move it and should be starting back soon. Maybe a few more months.
