A442F Transmission Issue UPDATE: Seems like a motor issue instead. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Red Merle
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If it was wet perhaps check the spark plug tubes. Easy for water to pool down there and cause issues.
- Thread starter
- #43
Thanks guys. I will try those things in the morning. I am kinda burned out on this at the moment and am scratching my head.
Any other ideas?
Any other ideas?
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
You know how well you checked, but I’d squirt a little compressed air in the cap pins & centerpin area esp, and maybe even scrape/garnet paper the cap plug wire points (all contact pins where the plug wires attach), and that centerpin & each pin the rotor arm arcs.
Or is your o-ring for the dizzy cap newer & primo?
How’s the wiring around the coil & the wire from it to the dist cap, that prob got bumped some too in all this, yeah?
-Maybe pull the spark plug wire ends too & blast a little compressed air down each one.
Have you been doing the lithium or dielectric grease in all the harness sockets as you work different jobs underhood?
Scenarios like this are exactly why I goober whichever dielectric or lithium in crap for when stuff takes a shower. Heck, I just did the deck screws for my boat yesterday as the panels went back down, for the off-chance I pull up the floor & Raptor liner some aluminum diamond/tread plate.
Long story short, I’d be blasting compressed air and greasing terminals - it makes these run so much more consistent whenever you shower the motor. So it’s a win even if it doesn’t fix the core issue.
Or is your o-ring for the dizzy cap newer & primo?
How’s the wiring around the coil & the wire from it to the dist cap, that prob got bumped some too in all this, yeah?
-Maybe pull the spark plug wire ends too & blast a little compressed air down each one.
Have you been doing the lithium or dielectric grease in all the harness sockets as you work different jobs underhood?
Scenarios like this are exactly why I goober whichever dielectric or lithium in crap for when stuff takes a shower. Heck, I just did the deck screws for my boat yesterday as the panels went back down, for the off-chance I pull up the floor & Raptor liner some aluminum diamond/tread plate.
Long story short, I’d be blasting compressed air and greasing terminals - it makes these run so much more consistent whenever you shower the motor. So it’s a win even if it doesn’t fix the core issue.
- Thread starter
- #45
I have been pretty religious about filling each wire fitting that I have disconnected and reconnected and I am running out of ones that I haven't done yet.
I will dive deeper into the plugs in the morning, but I did just pop the covers off and pulled a couple and didn't see any moisture. Yes, my dizzy o-ring was replaced about 10K ago when I did the HG job. The plug wires might be worth inspecting as I don't know if they are original. I also had the injectors sent out to Witch Hunter when I did the HG job and they were all nearly in new spec.
I will try blowing more air around tomorrow, but I did just look in the air tube that comes off the AFM to the throttle body and in the intake more closely and that all looks fine. I also greased the connector that slides into the AFM without removing the screws.
Are you referring to the plug wires where they slide into the distributer cap and the cap? I will take that apart too in case it's that. Could it be a rotor issue? That is old too.
- Thread starter
- #46
I decided to set my big shop fan in the engine bay to see if I can dry out whatever might be wet. We'll see.
I will have to keep trying tomorrow if that doesn't help.
I will have to keep trying tomorrow if that doesn't help.
- Thread starter
- #47
What am I looking for if I open this? Can I seal it with FIPG or something better if I pull the cover off?
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Surging like that is often a TPS problem. That connector is the only critical one under the hood that isn't weather sealed, so check the connection, if good, run the FSM checks on the TPS.
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- #50
I was wondering about that. I will take a closer look but I did put grease in the electrical connection. I will have to look into testing it.
Could it be my dashpot?
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Drops underneath, looks like it heads down to the ABS sensors.
- Thread starter
- #52
I made some match marks on my TPS. Could I try removing it to see if it got wet, or is that I bad idea?
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- #53
OK, that makes sense. I yanked a lot of that stuff and the plug looked dusty. I am ruling it out for now. Thanks!
I'd focus more on the connector than the unit itself (leave the unit in place). Unplug the electrical connector and let it dry out overnight.
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- #55
Well, I decided to really blow some air into the TPS connector and I think that fixed it. I got the motor warm and it revs nice and smooth. I will try driving it in the morning, but it must have just gotten wet.
Fingers crossed that is all it was.
Tools r Us for the win, we hope.
- Thread starter
- #57
Well, I drove the truck around town this morning and everything seems back to normal. Thanks again for all of your help and especially @Tools R Us for the TPS idea. I am still kinda surprised that just putting the dialectric grease in the fitting wasn't enough, but I learned something about how blowing the connector out mattered and also how easy it was to cause the problem in the first place. I have never been a believer in trying to pressure wash an engine, mostly due to fear of causing an issue like this, but even with a gentle shower of water things can get wet where they shouldn't be.
It certainly didn't hurt to check out all of the other connections and fill those with grease too.
Thanks again! I would have been in the weeds without you guys!
It certainly didn't hurt to check out all of the other connections and fill those with grease too.
Thanks again! I would have been in the weeds without you guys!
Glad you are back in action, lesson learned for all. Not sure how others are cleaning their engines but on mine I do it while the engine is hot, using hot water/degreaser from a car wash. I mist the top sections to avoid this exact issue and save the high pressure for the lower part and undercarriage. Now that my oil leaks are mostly sorted out I probably won't have to wash it nearly as often.
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In the time that I have owned it, mine has likely been pressure washed at least 20 times.
When dirty rigs come in for work, out comes the pressure washer, routine job. Yes you need to be aware if the distributor, TPS connector, etc, may need to be dried, but not that big of a deal. The TPS connector isn't weather sealed, don't understand why, a dab of silicone grease solves the problem. It's a good thing to do for any exposed connections, but that one is most vulnerable. In my thinking, it's a good test. Most of the rigs we work on are likely to do water fords, better to find/fix the weakness before, preventing it being stalled in a river?
- Thread starter
- #60
I have always had good luck just using a degreaser like Simple Green or even mineral spirits if I really have a lot of gunk to cut through, lots of scrubbing with various brushes and then rinsing with the garden sprayer on a gentle setting. That said, plenty of people use pressure washers and don't have any issues.In the time that I have owned it, mine has likely been pressure washed at least 20 times.
In my thinking, it's a good test. Most of the rigs we work on are likely to do water fords, better to find/fix the weakness before, preventing it being stalled in a river?
My trouble is that I am not savvy enough to know just what to look for if I do end up with an issue, which is how we ended up here.
I really do appreciate all of your help and it's always nice to have a fix that cost nothing more than time.
