Builds A pig for Father's Day (23 Viewers)

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Here's my über nerdy post of the week. I noticed while attempting to clean some of my brake lines and fittings that the jumper between the rear wheel brake cylinders appeared to be coated in black paint, or something akin to paint. At first I thought it was just PO rattle can black but it went all the way around the lines and seemed to be fairly even, even though it was peeling off due to my cleaning efforts.

So I googled the part number and Part's Souq came through with some photos (but of course 0 available). Sure enough, the photo showed them black and not gray and/or silver (admittedly though that is very subjective). What also came up in the search was an ebay vendor with what was advertised as NOS SA parts (vendor is out of Miami). On a whim I bought two. They weren't very expensive. It's definitely a coated brake line but these are dark greenish gray. If they are fake then the labels and craftmanship are both top notch. Fittings are absolutely identical to my OEM jumpers, as is the configuration. If nothing else, that's two less lines to make.

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That’s a great find. Those are a pain to make - at least with the tubing bender that I have.
They showed 4 available so if anyone needs a pair they are likely still there.
 
Sorry I should have said look up "Poly-Vinyl Fluorine coat tubing" and you'll see most parts store brake lines use that..
Good chance that's what you are seeing by the colors you described.
Interesting. Apparently Toyota has been using PVF lines for years but, like you, that makes me suspect the lines as counterfeit. Apparently Poly-Armour is their go to supplier. Having said that, they must have been making those specific lines in the not too distant past for Partsouq to still have them in their system. I googled searched on Partsouq for some of the other hard brake lines and got "nothing found".

Who knows. They are certainly good enough for me. If they are counterfeit, they have the fittings and the labels perfect. And I mean perfectly perfect. 😂

No hurry but when you get a few moments, would you post your go-to 3/16" NiCopp line and 10mm fittings? I can see myself getting deep into that task as soon as I get a rolling chassis put together. I have read the Rainman thread in the 40/55 Forum a couple of times but it's getting pretty dated. Thanks!
 
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Take a look at post #1,242 in you're build thread and let me know if that's what you're looking for, if not I'm happy to help any way I can.
lol That's what I was asking for. I obviously read that post but I think my comprehension took a nosedive when I dwelled a bit too long on the straightener.
 
Found a big box on the doorstep this afternoon. Had no idea they were shipping. Very pleased with the work that Just Dashes did.

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Wasn't sure I could get a reproduction shift instruction decal so I asked them to leave the original. No idea how that decal would have gotten so crooked and wrinkled. Maybe it was installed on a Friday afternoon?

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Lastly, I sent them my original instrument surround and instruments as well as a spare surround. I asked them to restore the spare surround if they could as my original one is in great shape. So if anyone needs a very good surround reach out, as I will eventually put this one in the Classifieds. I only decided to have the original instrument surround (or the spare one) and the center dash pad restored as I was concerned about all the pieces matching. Seems my fears were unfounded as it's not easy to tell the original from the restored one from the front.

Original surround with instruments on top and restored one on bottom:

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Back of the same ones; original on top and restored spare on bottom:

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I swapped the instruments over to the restored spare. Original surround on bottom.

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General ball park $ on those 4 pieces to be restored?

And just the instrument surroung piece?

I know....I have to ask.....so probably can't (won't ) afford it, but curious
Depends on your budget. I sent you a PM. Or, as I have learned, a DM. Why do these acronyms have to change every 10 years?
 
Probably steam or heat to pull Vynal around 🧐🤔😉
Like in the factory originally? You would think the decal would go on last. To be clear it was that way before the restoration.
 
I like the corrosion resistance of stainless but I'm always a little leery of galling. As far as I can tell, their pre-bent lines are made from stainless tubing with plated steel fittings which I find interesting. Have you tried their plated steel fittings? I assume they would work just as well but obviously wouldn't have the corrosion resistance of stainless. I think these are the appropriate ones:


That's a great resource btw; thanks for sharing!
 

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