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- #1,121
Friend in Yemen came through again. Fan shroud and emergency brake cable. Pretty sure he had to get the cable from someone in Saudi. Good to have friends.
Builds A pig for Father's Day (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
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Binmah in Yemen has some gold for sure. I bought several things from him for my ‘69 pig like a turn signal indicator and an original 2F camshaft. When I am bored I just scroll his IG page.
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- #1,123
FWIW, I only bought the fan shroud from him because the PO had modified the original one to fit the Champion aluminum radiator. It could have been modified back to original to fit an OEM radiator but I'm sure it was cheaper to buy this one. If anyone wants/needs a like new Champion aluminum radiator with shroud let me know.
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- #1,124
Decided to order new studs for the axle housings since mine were sandblasted above the nuts. I assume there is no harm in installing these with red loctite? Also, IIRC, I have in the very distant past used a very small bead of FIPG on both sides of the gaskets before reinstalling the diffs. I know there are varying opinions on the usefulness of the FIPG but thought I would check the collective minds in the Sty before proceeding. It's been 20 years or more since I pulled and installed differentials. Also, IIRC, I only put the FIPG on the inboard half of the gasket so that it didn't squish all the way out. Studs are due in today and I think I have everything else to start putting everything back together.
The FSM recommends the gasket only.
If your flange faces are gouged up from removal of the diff carrier then use some FIPG. If you don't want it to ever leak use some FIPG. If you strongly dislike the person who will remove the diff next, use some FIPG.
Bottom line, it won't hurt anything, but if you haven't had leaks and you're assembling per the FSM then it's not necessary.
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- #1,127
When I ordered the new studs for the differentials I ordered 1 each of the diff nut, the inspection plate nut, and the lock washer. I wanted to compare them to what I have on hand in my two different metric kits from Overland metric (one white zinc and one yellow).
The nuts look very similar, which you would expect from JIS small wrench M10 nuts but the one for the differentials has an indention mark on one side and the other side appears to have less or maybe even no shoulder. IIRC the torque spec for the differential nuts is something like 34 ft-lbs and something like 10 ft-lbs for the inspection plate nuts. So maybe it's a strength thing? No other thoughts as to why Toyota would spec two different nuts in such similar applications.
The lock washer was way different than the ones in the kit. It's ~18.5mm diameter and a full 3mm thick. The ones in the kit are under 16mm in diameter and maybe 2mm thick. I looked online at McMaster Carr and also Bel-Metric and you can find M10 lock washers around 18mm in diameter but nothing over 2mm thick. So of course that bothered me to the point that I had to order the OEM washers. And while I was ordering I bought 20 of the differential nuts. I will use the ones from the Overland kit for the inspection cover.
Lately I have been ordering most things from Toyota of Richmond (formerly McGeorge and now Ourisman). Sometimes I price things elsewhere and today I am glad I did. Partsouq had the nuts and lock washers for $0.53 and $0.65 respectively. Toyota of Richmond sells them for $1.43 and $1.46 which is about 10% off MSRP. Shipping from Dubai via Fedex is $15 vs $7.80 from Richmond. No idea why the prices are so different on this hardware but of course I ordered from Partsouq at less than half the price shipped.
The nuts look very similar, which you would expect from JIS small wrench M10 nuts but the one for the differentials has an indention mark on one side and the other side appears to have less or maybe even no shoulder. IIRC the torque spec for the differential nuts is something like 34 ft-lbs and something like 10 ft-lbs for the inspection plate nuts. So maybe it's a strength thing? No other thoughts as to why Toyota would spec two different nuts in such similar applications.
The lock washer was way different than the ones in the kit. It's ~18.5mm diameter and a full 3mm thick. The ones in the kit are under 16mm in diameter and maybe 2mm thick. I looked online at McMaster Carr and also Bel-Metric and you can find M10 lock washers around 18mm in diameter but nothing over 2mm thick. So of course that bothered me to the point that I had to order the OEM washers. And while I was ordering I bought 20 of the differential nuts. I will use the ones from the Overland kit for the inspection cover.
Lately I have been ordering most things from Toyota of Richmond (formerly McGeorge and now Ourisman). Sometimes I price things elsewhere and today I am glad I did. Partsouq had the nuts and lock washers for $0.53 and $0.65 respectively. Toyota of Richmond sells them for $1.43 and $1.46 which is about 10% off MSRP. Shipping from Dubai via Fedex is $15 vs $7.80 from Richmond. No idea why the prices are so different on this hardware but of course I ordered from Partsouq at less than half the price shipped.
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- #1,129
I looked at some similar tables but also read multiple times that JIS doesn't have a comprehensive marking standard like ISO and DIN. I took another look at the nut and there are no other marks other than the indention. So there is not a corresponding hash mark to indicate grade like the table in the link.
I also put a straight edge to the side opposite the indention and it's flat. The indention side has a normal looking shoulder and the inspection cover OEM nut has what appears to be the same, typical shoulder on both sides.
So my current, uneducated theory is that the flat side is meant to go against the oversize lock washer and the indention is just there to indicate the side that goes out.
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- #1,130
Got the axle diff flanges prepped and the new studs installed. Also put the rear brake backing plates on. I reused the original lock washers and nuts. They are the same part numbers as the differential washers and nuts. Same indent and flat back side.
Backing plates and rectangular headed bolts were powder coated. Axle semi gloss topcoat matches the powder coating fairly well.
I couldn’t find a torque spec for those nuts so I used 34 ft-lbs, same as the differential nuts. I’m usually in the “just good and tight” camp but when there’s multiple nuts in a pattern I at least like to torque them to the same spec.
Backing plates and rectangular headed bolts were powder coated. Axle semi gloss topcoat matches the powder coating fairly well.
I couldn’t find a torque spec for those nuts so I used 34 ft-lbs, same as the differential nuts. I’m usually in the “just good and tight” camp but when there’s multiple nuts in a pattern I at least like to torque them to the same spec.
So pretty!
Might be a good time to put in lockers!
Might be a good time to put in lockers!
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- #1,132
Nothing but pavement between my house and Publix.
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- #1,133
So I inspected both diffs and there is some slight wear/pitting on some of the Ring Gear teeth towards the ends of the current rear diff. At least I think it's called the Ring Gear. Other than that, I don't really see much visual difference between the two diffs. I then inserted the short rear axle into both sides of both housings and there is the slightest of slight rotational play in what is the current rear diff vs the current front diff. So with that long preamble, I am going to take your advice and swap the two. Thanks again for that suggestion Mike.
So a quick question. The rear diff has a spacer on the pinion shaft and the front doesn't. That spacer is the only difference I see between the front and rear diffs on the parts diagrams. The differential assemblies even have the same part numbers. I assume it's as simple as swapping that spacer to the "new" rear diff? Has to be right?
That’s what I did, mine is yet to turn a wheel but it all went together nice.
What's your FSM say about inspecting the C-clip wear?
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- #1,136
I don't know and to be clear, me saying I "inspected" the diffs is a gross exaggeration if not a total misrepresentation. But for $7.81 each I think buying 2 new ones is the right answer. I assume you mean the two clips that lock the rear axles in place?
Yes, it’s that simple.
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- #1,138
Got the spacer swapped over yesterday. Installing it on the old front diff was easy as the spider gears had not been removed. Everything was already lined up so just pull the pin back, hold the spacer in the right spot, and slide the pin back through. Reinstalling the spider gears in the old rear diff without the spacer was another story. My son was helping and we were both scratching our heads. It seems like every attempt we were about 1/4" off for them to both line up. As I write this post I still don't know what we did but somehow after what seemed like 50 or more attempts, we were suddenly there.
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- #1,139
Started cleaning up the rear brake parts today. I would like to get a rolling chassis put together as that would allow me to start playing with brake lines, fuel tank and lines, etc. while I wait on a motor and body. I have the axles done and the diffs are almost done. So it's pretty much down to brake components, springs, and rims. I know I'm just going to get the rims sandblasted and powder coated so those won't take much of my time. Brake components and suspension are another story.
Not exactly sure what to do with these OME leaf springs. I took one of the rear ones apart today to see what I'm dealing with. The leaves are in decent shape but the hardware is not. I'm not sure what OME uses for plating their plated parts but it isn't very durable. These springs were installed in 2015 so in fairness we are looking at 10 years of wear and tear, even if it's less than 5k miles since they were installed. Also, FWIW, the PO removed 2 leaves out of each rear spring pack when they were installed. So four less to deal with!
From my research, it seems that media blasting or wire wheeling is okay on leaf springs but sandblasting is not. Also painting is fine but powder coating is not (due to oven temp). I tried searching what others have done in this forum and the 40 series forum but I must not be using the right terms because almost nothing comes up. Open to suggestions. Otherwise I am probably going to strip these either chemically or mechanically (or both) and use the Mastercoat Chassis Saver and AG 111 satin black topcoat like I did with the axles. I'm tempted to just paint all the hardware as well although I could probably get it replated.
I have also read in multiple places that reusing leaf spring U-Bolts is not recommended so I guess I will go with new ones. Not cheap but certainly easy.
My only major question on the brake components are what, if anything to paint on the front rotors and the rear drums. IIRC I wire wheeled and then painted both with POR15 on the '85 4Runner many years ago. Obviously I'm not talking about the parts that contact the pads or shoes but everything else. The Mastercoat products would certainly work but the metal prep will be a pain - just like the springs.
Just making this rambling post to see what others might have done.
Not exactly sure what to do with these OME leaf springs. I took one of the rear ones apart today to see what I'm dealing with. The leaves are in decent shape but the hardware is not. I'm not sure what OME uses for plating their plated parts but it isn't very durable. These springs were installed in 2015 so in fairness we are looking at 10 years of wear and tear, even if it's less than 5k miles since they were installed. Also, FWIW, the PO removed 2 leaves out of each rear spring pack when they were installed. So four less to deal with!
From my research, it seems that media blasting or wire wheeling is okay on leaf springs but sandblasting is not. Also painting is fine but powder coating is not (due to oven temp). I tried searching what others have done in this forum and the 40 series forum but I must not be using the right terms because almost nothing comes up. Open to suggestions. Otherwise I am probably going to strip these either chemically or mechanically (or both) and use the Mastercoat Chassis Saver and AG 111 satin black topcoat like I did with the axles. I'm tempted to just paint all the hardware as well although I could probably get it replated.
I have also read in multiple places that reusing leaf spring U-Bolts is not recommended so I guess I will go with new ones. Not cheap but certainly easy.
My only major question on the brake components are what, if anything to paint on the front rotors and the rear drums. IIRC I wire wheeled and then painted both with POR15 on the '85 4Runner many years ago. Obviously I'm not talking about the parts that contact the pads or shoes but everything else. The Mastercoat products would certainly work but the metal prep will be a pain - just like the springs.
Just making this rambling post to see what others might have done.
I don’t know how “rigid” your frame paint is but the springs will flex a fair amount, not sure what the right coating is?
The hardware I would just clean up and paint I think.
Brakes…VHT hi temp, at least that’s my go-to.
The hardware I would just clean up and paint I think.
Brakes…VHT hi temp, at least that’s my go-to.
