A Guide To Towing a 100 Behind an RV (1 Viewer)

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This thread is worth its weight in gold. Thanks to all for confirming the 100 series can successfully be towed behind a diesel pusher! Now I just have to secure the vehicle and get her rigger up!
Great! I'm glad the thread has been helpful to you. I just wish we could flat tow our 200...
 
Hello KMGHMG, I am new to this site,But I have been following your Posts on flat towing a Lexus LX470, I have a question on the Roadmaster base plate, did you install them where the factory tow hooks were?also did you have to remove the front bumper?

I am going to be doing both of my 2003 Lexus LX470’s

Thank You

John
 
Hello KMGHMG, I am new to this site,But I have been following your Posts on flat towing a Lexus LX470, I have a question on the Roadmaster base plate, did you install them where the factory tow hooks were?also did you have to remove the front bumper?

I am going to be doing both of my 2003 Lexus LX470’s

Thank You

John

Installation was simple. The base plates (one for each side) bolt into the towing hook bolts. Didn’t have to remove the bumper. Later on, I had Mike at Bump It Offroad customize one of his front bumpers so I could tow directly from that...and I LOVE it.
 
Installation was simple. The base plates (one for each side) bolt into the towing hook bolts. Didn’t have to remove the bumper. Later on, I had Mike at Bump It Offroad customize one of his front bumpers so I could tow directly from that...and I LOVE it.

Can you post up some pics of the bumper?? If I can get my act together quickly, that’d be the route I go too.
 
How did everyone wire up their taillights on the 100 series? I’m debating on whether I can tap into the rear outside LED taillight lights via the blue box harness instead of installing the additional bulbs.

I will be using the rvi brake 3 that presses on the pedal which illuminated the brake lights but I also know that on slow braking the brake system might not press the brake pedal hard enough

Any thoughts?
 
I used that light kit mentioned in my original post. It required drilling holes in the rear light assemblies. I learned the hard way that a paddle bit will shatter the plastic, so I used a hole saw the next time! It was quite a bit of work, but it's been performing well for over three years. I was afraid to cut into any of the wiring on the truck itself.
 
Read through this thread fairly fast so may have missed someone else using the AirForce1 system, but just wanted to add that we have towed our 2007 LX470 over 5,000 miles problem free. The Air Force 1 is intended to tap into a vehicle's vacuum hose, but since the '07 LX uses Hydro-boost this wasn't possible. I called Air Force 1 and they said it wasn't necessary, So I just ran an air line directly from the control unit to the air cylinder that mounts to the inside firewall and then attaches to the brake pedal. It works great, draws no power and there is no box to lift out and store.
 
Read through this thread fairly fast so may have missed someone else using the AirForce1 system, but just wanted to add that we have towed our 2007 LX470 over 5,000 miles problem free. The Air Force 1 is intended to tap into a vehicle's vacuum hose, but since the '07 LX uses Hydro-boost this wasn't possible. I called Air Force 1 and they said it wasn't necessary, So I just ran an air line directly from the control unit to the air cylinder that mounts to the inside firewall and then attaches to the brake pedal. It works great, draws no power and there is no box to lift out and store.

I anticipated running AF1 like in my other toad but found a deal on an rvi brake 3. I figured with any extra setup time will pale in comparison to the cost and time it would to take to install and uninstall AF1 when I get another toad. Good to know for the future!!
 
Like others, I did not want to splice into the factory wiring so just ran a 4 wire trailer wire to the back and then bought a pair of lights: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KMH14Q0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 from amazon and made a small detachable light bar. It did not give me a license plate light but I almost never drive the RV after dark.

Lexus Tail light assembly.jpg


Slides over the trailer hitch and is held in place by the hitch pin
 
Anything wrong w splicing into the factory lights?

Seems easier to me, other than my uncertainty of whether or not when the brake lights are activated by the coach and when the brake pedal is activated will cause an issue.

I most certainly don’t want to drill into the tail lights either!

I ran the 4 wire from the front to the back tail lights and the way it is setup is everything lights up as it should when I test from the front wiring harness and functions as it should with no issues. I just can’t seem to wrap my mind around whether or not I need a relay of some sort so the brake lights don’t get two sources of 12v coming at them. Thoughts???? Does that even make sense???
 
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Anything wrong w splicing into the factory lights?

Seems easier to me, other than my uncertainty of whether or not when the brake lights are activated by the coach and when the brake pedal is activated will cause an issue.

I most certainly don’t want to drill into the tail lights either!

I ran the 4 wire from the front to the back tail lights and the way it is setup is everything lights up as it should when I test from the front wiring harness and functions as it should with no issues. I just can’t seem to wrap my mind around whether or not I need a relay of some sort so the brake lights don’t get two sources of 12v coming at them. Thoughts???? Does that even make sense???


I don't think it matters. You could hook up a dozen batteries to the bulb, but a long as it's only 12v, the lamp will only pull the max currennt that it is rater for.
 
Actually the term would be diode rather than relay and I think you would need two (one each side). That is why I went the "easy way" and just avoided the LX's wiring entirely. Although unintended, I discovered the vehicle brake lights are activated when the pedal is depressed by the air cylinder, so I suppose that if towing for many days without unhooking and starting the engine could result in battery drain.
 
Thanks everyone!! If the way I have it currently set up doesn’t work I have all the wiring to install auxiliary lights so changing it won’t be a major deal at all. Tapping into the Rear LEDs gives me third brake light and license plate lights as well. Thankfully these systems aren’t on a canbus system. Tapping into the rear LEDs gives me third brake light and license plate light functionality.
 
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Actually the term would be diode rather than relay and I think you would need two (one each side). That is why I went the "easy way" and just avoided the LX's wiring entirely. Although unintended, I discovered the vehicle brake lights are activated when the pedal is depressed by the air cylinder, so I suppose that if towing for many days without unhooking and starting the engine could result in battery drain.

I’ll have a 12v charge line coming from the toad to keep battery charging while driving. I also carry a battery pack charger just in case lol

Can’t wait to get it finished and get on the road!

2vnnww0.jpg
 
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Well, i just confirmed that the way I have it setup now tapped into the rear LEDs will work!!! No need to drill or add any additional bulbs or lights.

When the brakes are engaged on the coach, the car brake lights will light up. When the brake lights are light up AND the toad brake pedal is engaged, the brake lights stay illuminated AND nothing else happens!! I’m pretty pumped about that. Best part is the install is done, I get the third brake light and license plate lights to light up and that’s it. Here’s a quick shot of how I tapped into the rear wiring of the lights. I’ll clean up the mess with zip ties and electrical tape.

D2380954-58-A8-403-D-9304-115-E2-F2-D9-B05.jpg


On another note, does anyone know what part number or what I can replace the foam around the lights with? Mine are worn out and I want a good seal.
 
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This is some great mud... I thought I was going to have to buy a jeep toad.
 
Has anyone use the Brake Master Road Master braking system on their 100? If so I have a question.
 
Quick question...does the odometer mileage register the miles while being towed?
We towed our 100 series for about 6000 around the country, it does not run the miles up while towing.
Also if it helps others our set for braking was the RVI brake 3, and for lights we ran a wireless tow light - this one Towmate TM22G 22" Wireless Tow Light Amazon product ASIN B00DIDAZZG
With this set up you don’t have to tap into the vehicles wiring and you can transport your set up to any other vehicle.
I loved this set up.
 
We towed our 100 series for about 6000 around the country, it does not run the miles up while towing.
Also if it helps others our set for braking was the RVI brake 3, and for lights we ran a wireless tow light - this one Towmate TM22G 22" Wireless Tow Light Amazon product ASIN B00DIDAZZG
With this set up you don’t have to tap into the vehicles wiring and you can transport your set up to any other vehicle.
I loved this set up.

Looks like a nice set up. I’ll have to check that out for my 06LC. I’m pulling my raptor now but planning on setting up my 06LC to flat tow. What tow set up did you use up front? I’ve got a blueox basebar from my LX I pulled off but I have planned to get a bumper w tow points tied to the frame.
 

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