Is getting a a 2uz powered truck (100 series, 4th gen 4R, gx470, etc) to "downsize costs" a bad choice?
- Thread starter jmferg
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Like others said, it’s how you work out your own finances for the math problem. 2UZs arent the cheapest but the cost typically comes in bunches for us who replace lots of parts in sections. Once your up to par its just filling the tank and changing oil.
I will say my 4R parts are typically much easier to find and cheaper by a good bit. It’s just not as over built, they come with their own pros and cons.
I prefer the 100 over my 4R, It’s just better in everything except acceleration.
I will say my 4R parts are typically much easier to find and cheaper by a good bit. It’s just not as over built, they come with their own pros and cons.
I prefer the 100 over my 4R, It’s just better in everything except acceleration.
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Exiled
SILVER Star
I'm jealous of people that can drive sensibly and get this kind of mileage!
19mpg? That’s unheard of on a 100 series. Maybe momentarily driving downhill 50mph with the wind in your favor. My stock LX never got anything close to that and I bought it with super low mileage and all season tires.I'm jealous of people that can drive sensibly and get this kind of mileage!
My wife’s says I drive like an old man at times… I see no where close to 19. Maybe 17, in the summer with AC off doing 50. Stock LC
New spark plugs, 5-30 weight synthetic oil, easy on the gas pedal?
PyroZuki
Pyro
I can only speak on my personal situation, but I'd recommend you call yer insurance and see what they charge to insure it and are you good with ~14 MPG?
Great rigs, otherwise!
Pyro
Great rigs, otherwise!
Pyro
- Thread starter
- #28
I actually checked that this afternoon. I called my agent I gave them the vin of a 2005 for sale. Full coverage was $5 more a month than my 2021 tacoma. Can't say i'm surprised, so it's good to know. She was shocked and re-ran the numbers.
There you have it folks! This guy is smarter than all of us. He figured out how to get 19mpg when nobody else could for decades. It was in plain sight the entire time!
Yeah, pretty sure we all call 100% BS on that type of mileage. I never saw it even close with a stock 06 lx even if I drove easy. Perhaps driving downhill in the wind in neutral might get you there.
19 is tough. But 17.x is quite attainable on long highway trips (at 70 mph). Throw any city driving in the mix it obviously goes down quick.
I’m not quite calling BS but that is a high number for a 4-speed with a little extra armor.
Idk, I’m curious to what my mileage will be once winter gas is gone. I wish I had hand calculated my last trip that showed 17.2 mpg on the info screen. I don’t drive enough to get good data often lol.
Edit: Hand calculated 15.5 mpg (93 octane, winter gas) on trip from Central Mass to White Mountains National Forest, round trip. My info screen is 1 mpg off - it read 16.5 mpg. Happy with that for a factory setup. I was cruising at 70 mph mostly
Idk, I’m curious to what my mileage will be once winter gas is gone. I wish I had hand calculated my last trip that showed 17.2 mpg on the info screen. I don’t drive enough to get good data often lol.
Edit: Hand calculated 15.5 mpg (93 octane, winter gas) on trip from Central Mass to White Mountains National Forest, round trip. My info screen is 1 mpg off - it read 16.5 mpg. Happy with that for a factory setup. I was cruising at 70 mph mostly
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lol! Stock size BFG ATs, but I like how you think. I usually get around 16 mpg in Colorado on the highway. I think the truck liked the lower altitude in Texas
I have multiple documented instances of all highway trips getting me 18-19 mpg in my mall cruiser 07 LX. I run either Costco 92, BP 93, or Sinclair 91 no ethanol. Speeds vary between 60-70. Elevation here or where I have gotten these numbers has been between 900-1500ft above sea level. I run P rated LTX. I hand calc every fuel up and have the odo % adjusted due to running a slightly taller tire than factory. This is on 3-350 mile tank fills. Not just 3 mile downhill runs.
I see very good numbers on ethanol free fuel. Add in any ethanol and it will always drop.
I see very good numbers on ethanol free fuel. Add in any ethanol and it will always drop.
If your math is correct, you are the anomaly and not average. Nobody buying this car should expect to get this type of mileage. You admit to taller tires and an adjusted odometer and are stating that you are achieving 20% more mileage than the average person…. I’m sure it does match but do you check the odometer and speedometer against a gps?
I live in Maryland in a relatively flat area and always use top-tier fuel, which does have 10% ethanol here, have used stock sized ltx, and still never achieve anything near that mileage even with new fluids and perfect maintenance all around . Any acceleration or passing or leading traffic at 70ish takes mileage to an avg or 13-14. Maybe a hyper miler behind a tractor trailor could get you up there but that’s not how normal people drive.
This is not to dissuade anyone or state that the gas mileage is bad, it just is what it is. For those of us that drive V8 or twin turbo V8’s and other cars, gas mileage isn’t part of the equation of happiness.
I’m not sure if we’ve all seen the reviews of the 700 H, but some of the real world reports are returning 13 MPG as well… so it’s all relative if the cost can be afforded.
I live in Maryland in a relatively flat area and always use top-tier fuel, which does have 10% ethanol here, have used stock sized ltx, and still never achieve anything near that mileage even with new fluids and perfect maintenance all around . Any acceleration or passing or leading traffic at 70ish takes mileage to an avg or 13-14. Maybe a hyper miler behind a tractor trailor could get you up there but that’s not how normal people drive.
This is not to dissuade anyone or state that the gas mileage is bad, it just is what it is. For those of us that drive V8 or twin turbo V8’s and other cars, gas mileage isn’t part of the equation of happiness.
I’m not sure if we’ve all seen the reviews of the 700 H, but some of the real world reports are returning 13 MPG as well… so it’s all relative if the cost can be afforded.
17 mpg in a fully stock 100 series with the 5 speed running stock Michelin Defenders on all highway (70mph) at flat-ish elevations isn't difficult to attain. I don't really understand anyone saying it's not possible. You either have a lead foot, or your rig needs a tune up, or both.
Yes. My numbers are all verified. I run OBD Fusion to monitor all engine data, which also includes GPS speed and elevation. I correct for a 1.9% difference in my tire height.If your math is correct, you are the anomaly and not average. Nobody buying this car should expect to get this type of mileage. You admit to taller tires and an adjusted odometer and are stating that you are achieving 20% more mileage than the average person…. I’m sure it does match but do you check the odometer and speedometer against a gps?
I live in Maryland in a relatively flat area and always use top-tier fuel, which does have 10% ethanol here, have used stock sized ltx, and still never achieve anything near that mileage even with new fluids and perfect maintenance all around . Any acceleration or passing or leading traffic at 70ish takes mileage to an avg or 13-14. Maybe a hyper miler behind a tractor trailor could get you up there but that’s not how normal people drive.
This is not to dissuade anyone or state that the gas mileage is bad, it just is what it is. For those of us that drive V8 or twin turbo V8’s and other cars, gas mileage isn’t part of the equation of happiness.
I said this was pure highway full tank fill ups. If we look at my normal at least 50% city driving my numbers are in the 13-15 range consistently. I can eek into 16s the more highway I do.
It has been theorized that the LX had different timing tables due to the premium fuel requirement. Therefore, one could see a slight increase comparatively, by using fuel that matches the mapping.
I do not drive the truck easy. Revving things out when warmed up helps keep things healthy and clean from a carbon perspective.
As with anything stated on the internet: Your Mileage May Vary.
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My 2 cents.
Baselining a 100 is a choice. Yes, some buy and immediately replace numerous parts but I would personally recommend fixing what’s needed. In my opinion, when buying, look for two things mx history and rust. Some updates are a must: TB/WP. Radiator, brake booster, heater t’s, alternator, spark plugs, cam seals, etc are all important but the service history can suffice on these updates. The truck will tell you too. Really hone in on the previous owners record keeping and if they used OEM parts. Also, was mx done with DIY or by a trusted mechanic? Start there for maintenance items.
Seating 4 is not a problem but test drive whatever you’re getting and see if it’ll be comfortable for you and your family needs. Safety and reliability are top concerns with a family.
MPG will suffer for sure. I DD my 100 but I’ve DIY’d majority of the MPG items, spark plugs, O2 sensors, battery, ignition coils (if needed), and use BG 44k fuel additive. Use OEM parts, is my big recommendation. It’ll be expensive up front but use 25% Toyota sales, partsouq.com, and the numerous LC vendors advertisING here on Mud.
GL OP!
Baselining a 100 is a choice. Yes, some buy and immediately replace numerous parts but I would personally recommend fixing what’s needed. In my opinion, when buying, look for two things mx history and rust. Some updates are a must: TB/WP. Radiator, brake booster, heater t’s, alternator, spark plugs, cam seals, etc are all important but the service history can suffice on these updates. The truck will tell you too. Really hone in on the previous owners record keeping and if they used OEM parts. Also, was mx done with DIY or by a trusted mechanic? Start there for maintenance items.
Seating 4 is not a problem but test drive whatever you’re getting and see if it’ll be comfortable for you and your family needs. Safety and reliability are top concerns with a family.
MPG will suffer for sure. I DD my 100 but I’ve DIY’d majority of the MPG items, spark plugs, O2 sensors, battery, ignition coils (if needed), and use BG 44k fuel additive. Use OEM parts, is my big recommendation. It’ll be expensive up front but use 25% Toyota sales, partsouq.com, and the numerous LC vendors advertisING here on Mud.
GL OP!
- Thread starter
- #39
I would have $1,000 set aside for basic maintenance. Plugs, air filter, cabin filter, heater hoses/T's, thermostat, rad hoses, radiator, complete front accessory drive, all fluids and filter.
I test fit my rear facing carseat in the tacoma. Surprisingly, it fits in the middle seat but will be a back killer wriggling it in there. I also noticed this afternoon, one of the engine oil cooler lines is leaving a puddle from the Tacoma. Doubtful that will be covered under powertrain warranty.
My wife is still heavily against the idea of downgrading to a 100 series or GX470. I've been sitting on these wheels and tires all winter so if i can move them, that may help her come around.
I dont think it's needier. I think the simple answer is that people maintain these while your average 4Runner owner just runs it into the dirt. 95% of the work I have performed on my 100 has been replacement of things that are worn but not necessarily needing replacement. I just put 2 brand new CV axles in it yesterday. Were they broken? No. They were worn where they go through the hub flange and would have probably lasted another 100K miles. I'm replacing motor mounts next weekend. Are they broken? No. But they are old and after 235K miles could probably use replacement and in return eliminating any engine vibrations.
Not everything needs to be done the second you get it, we've owned this truck for several years now and I have just slowly modded it and replaced wear items as time and budget allows. If you cannot turn your own wrenches though this is not the vehicle for you. All the maintenance I have done would have far exceeded the price of the vehicle if I were dropping it off at a mechanic all the time.
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