A Year of Hunting, a Cross-Country Flight, and My First 100 Series

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LC is still in the shop, but should have it back any day now. In the meantime, in preparation for my trip I've ordered an awning which I hope to be able to mount into the stock rack with rivnuts (I've ordered Yakima MightyMounts as an alternative, just in case). Additionally, I've put together an Amazon order for a DIY solar system based around a 200W solar panel, MPPT charger, and a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery to keep my Starlink Mini and Macbook powered so I can work remotely while in BFE. This will be my first major project for the vehicle, and will hopefully serve as a bridge until I can get to a full dual battery setup down the road.
 
While I'm thinking about it, has anyone successfully mounted anything in the cargo cubby in the rear quarter panel? I believe the battery I ordered should fit in there, but I'm pretty sure it's all plastic, so I'm not sure how I'd securely mount it. I searched around on the forum but haven't been able to find anything conclusive.
 
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Truck back from the shop. Drives like a new vehicle! New ball joints (555 upper/lower), tie rods (555 inner/outer), and shocks (OEM). Alignment looks solid, but there is still a slight bit of pull to the right, which I suspect is coming from a sticking piston on front passenger caliper. This specific piston was a PITA when doing the brakes earlier this year, and due to the fact that the pull is slight and intermittent, I am suspecting this. Will need to look into it further. Also, I'm sure the wheel bearings are not helping. No idea when the last time they were repacked/replaced. Additionally, I've noticed a leak from the transfer case. Will likely add some stop leak additive when changing the oil in the case and diffs soon. Running boards are removed, and awning installed. Will share a picture when I have one, but she's starting to look like a nice touring rig!
 
RE: battery question above, I was watching videos of 105 series mods while my truck was in the shop and didn't realize the difference in size in the rear cubbies. The group 24 battery I have will certainly not fit in any of the rear cubbies!

I've been playing around with different strategies to wire and setup my house battery system in the cargo area. Haven't been able to find the right solution. I was thinking of mounting the Victron MPPT into the smaller passenger side cargo cubby in the rear, and using anderson plugs for quick connect/disconnect, but I can't find a place to securely mount my battery. Plenty of spaces for it to sit, but a large unsecured lithium battery bouncing around off road and in the event of an accident is just a massive liability. I'm also wary of drilling holes as this was initially just supposed to be a temporary solution.

I've spent a lot on this project already, and am considering returning it all to Amazon and just buying the Slee tray, a second battery, and a DC/DC charger for the sake of simplicity and ease of mounting.
 
Bad news.. leak wasn't from the transfer case...

Have not experienced any oil leaking since owning it (around 10k miles now I believe), but I started noticing a few drops of oil in the past couple of weeks - nothing crazy. Oil pressure was reading same as it always has, and dipstick when I checked it a couple of weeks back was reading fine. I figured I'd just let it ride and keep an eye on it until the next oil change.

Well, it seemed to get way worse in the past couple of days, so I crawled under there and dropped the skid plate, and my god what a mess. Oil everywhere - transmission was covered in it. Went up top to check the dipstick - bone dry. Straight to the mechanic. I read up on this one and was hoping it was not a rear main seal.. just got the call. Lucky door number three: rear main seal. Mechanic said it's completely busted, and that he's never seen one this bad, which honestly tracks with what I saw under the truck. It looked like something exploded. $1500 to fix, which absolutely blows. My upcoming trip is now officially canceled.

I have not found any other experiences of such a drastic failure on this, and honestly haven't found too many reports of this happening on 100's at all. I'm wondering if this is the whole picture and if there could be something else gnarlier at play, or if I just drew the short straw here. Mechanic seems pretty confident it is the RMS as well, to clarify. Anyways, huge bummer.
 
Bad news.. leak wasn't from the transfer case...

Have not experienced any oil leaking since owning it (around 10k miles now I believe), but I started noticing a few drops of oil in the past couple of weeks - nothing crazy. Oil pressure was reading same as it always has, and dipstick when I checked it a couple of weeks back was reading fine. I figured I'd just let it ride and keep an eye on it until the next oil change.

Well, it seemed to get way worse in the past couple of days, so I crawled under there and dropped the skid plate, and my god what a mess. Oil everywhere - transmission was covered in it. Went up top to check the dipstick - bone dry. Straight to the mechanic. I read up on this one and was hoping it was not a rear main seal.. just got the call. Lucky door number three: rear main seal. Mechanic said it's completely busted, and that he's never seen one this bad, which honestly tracks with what I saw under the truck. It looked like something exploded. $1500 to fix, which absolutely blows. My upcoming trip is now officially canceled.

I have not found any other experiences of such a drastic failure on this, and honestly haven't found too many reports of this happening on 100's at all. I'm wondering if this is the whole picture and if there could be something else gnarlier at play, or if I just drew the short straw here. Mechanic seems pretty confident it is the RMS as well, to clarify. Anyways, huge bummer.
Sorry to hear the bad news. Let's hope your troubles end there.
 
Forgot to update the above posting. It was in fact the RMS. Made sure to replacer the oil gallery seal as well while the transmission was out, and has been completely leak free since. Not a cheap fix but a fix nonetheless. Thread here
 
In other news - I found the clunk
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None of the front diff mount bushings were in great shape, but this front one was borderline nonexistent. The rubber practically fell out of the center once I removed the bolt/washer. I had a little trouble getting the bushing out of the housing, but a bigger hammer and chisel quickly solved the problem.

As you can probably imaging, the ride with the fresh bushings has improved dramatically. Acceleration finally feels good, and the clunk is almost entirely mitigated (replacing my drivers side CV/drive flange should likely fix the rest). Also, this has slightly dampened the front end vibration from 50-70mph.

All in all, an easy job if you have the right tools, and the Cruiser Teq kit was exceptionally handy.
 
Not yet. Right now I'm suspecting: CV, motor/trans mounts, or the cranked torsion bars (or all three).

I damaged a CV in Moab a couple years back. Replaced it with a Napa unit as thats all there was to get home and fought a vibration for over a year. I finally had the truck up in the air and was running the truck on a lift with no tires and noticed that the "new" Napa axle was bent...... I ended up purchasing 2 new OEM axles and hub flanges and solved the issue as well as some of the "Cruiser Clunk"

Part of the clunk is likely the axles rocking back and forth in worn hub flanges. Replacement of just the hub flanges themselves probably wont solve the problem as even new Non OEM axles will likely still be sloppy in new hub flanges (ask me how I know).
 
I damaged a CV in Moab a couple years back. Replaced it with a Napa unit as thats all there was to get home and fought a vibration for over a year. I finally had the truck up in the air and was running the truck on a lift with no tires and noticed that the "new" Napa axle was bent...... I ended up purchasing 2 new OEM axles and hub flanges and solved the issue as well as some of the "Cruiser Clunk"

Part of the clunk is likely the axles rocking back and forth in worn hub flanges. Replacement of just the hub flanges themselves probably wont solve the problem as even new Non OEM axles will likely still be sloppy in new hub flanges (ask me how I know).
Funny you mention that - the CV that is giving me issues is a NAPA one. I will likely go non OEM for now as I simply can't afford to drop $400 at the moment, and it needs to be done. Will possibly go Cardone HD. Will be replacing the hub flange and likely the axle seal on the diff as well. Hopefully it will last me long enough until I can get an OEM one in there.
 
Okay. I've been hunting the exact same symptoms in my 2000 LX. I have narrowed it down to the CV Axles which are TrakMotive TO-8139. I am installing new OEM CVs this Saturday. After my suspension lift the vibration started. The TrakMotive description on rock auto is clear that these are not for any lift. My hope is a lot higher hearing your experience. Awesome baseline. Keep it up. Thanks
 
Alright, new CV and drive flange is in as well as a new caliper. Also put new gear oil in the diffs + transfer case.

Process-wise for the CV, it was pretty straightforward - to a point. My ABS sensor was basically welded onto the hub, however undoing it in the engine bay and fishing it through was not bad at all (aside from me shearing off one of the bracket bolts on the hub). I would definitely suggest a long extension for the 10mm bolt up top for this one. Removing the sensor this way took about 5 minutes.

I ended up removing everything but the lower ball joint, and ended up having to fish it through the lower control arm as in this video. I would not recommend this method, as it is super heavy and it was just too dicey with the outer boot rubbing against to the shock and sway bar end link. I came out fine, but it did not feel like a smart play. Next time I do this job, I will remove the whole hub assembly. Only reason I didn't on this one was because my lower ball joint bolt was bigger than 24mm (is this a 555 thing?), and so I was SOL because my biggest socket I had on hand was 24mm. Once situated, axle seated as it should and everything went back together easy. Definitely a job that could be done in an afternoon if you have all your tools and your bolts cooperate.

I definitely suspected the source of my problems here to be worn out drive flange/axle splines, however when I examined them, they were fine. The problem was within the CV itself - excessive play on all axes. I guess I didn't even need to replace my drive flange, but I had already opened the new one, so figured why not. I will say, the cone washers were a pain. They did not come out easy at all, even with repeated blows with a heavy hammer. They would only peek out at best, and I had to wriggle them out slowly with a wrench. A little too close for comfort as far as damaging threads go, but in the end it was fine. Just a PITA.

As for the results? Vibration is gone. Driveline clunk is 95% gone. I'm honestly blown away by the improvement after replacing the CV and diff bushings.

Remaining issues and my take on them:

  • The driveline clunk is borderline nonexistent. Every once in a while, if you accelerate or shift at the exact right (or wrong) moment, there will be a slight thunking in the front end. I'm attributing this to likely annihilated control arm bushings as well as engine/trans mounts. That being said, this is rare and barely noticeable. Shifting and acceleration are pretty much perfect. And yes, I have greased the driveline.
  • There is a lot of steering slop at high speeds (60 and above), and a consistent pull to the right. I thought the pull was a seized caliper, but it persists even after the new caliper (it has also persisted through a new set of tires and an alignment). My gut here is going to go to control arm bushings. I checked for play in the wheel bearings, and there wasn't any. Additionally, the LBJ's and inner/outer tie rods were replaced within the last year. Same with the sway bar and end link bushings.

Other than the above notes, nothing else to complain about aside from some console lights. I couldn't be happier with how this restoration is going along. The improve in ride quality has been great, and the effort extremely worth it. Truck rides fantastic for a 26 year old vehicle. Still much work to be done. Control arm bushings and engine/trans mounts are next.
 
Actually, one more thing is on my mind: the sunroof. I've yet to dive into too many threads about this, but recently it has not wanting to come back once receded for both the tilt and slide options. I'm wondering if it's possible the switches are going bad? The sunroof slides forward/backwards at the same speed it always has, and doesn't seem to be struggling - it just take 3-4 press of the button to get it to start the return to original position. It never faults when receding though.
 
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