A Few Questions - FJ40 Tie Rod Upgrade to FJ60 Tie Rod (1 Viewer)

[4Cruisers]

About 20 years ago I did a mini-truck/FJ60/4-Runner disc brake conversion on my '71 FJ40 front axle (mini-truck knuckles/steering arms/spindles/Birfields, FJ60 vented rotors, and 4-Runner IFS calipers). I reused the FJ40 tie rod, installed new FJ40 TREs, and fabricated tapered bushings to fit the TREs into the mini-truck steering arms.

I now (finally) plan on upgrading the tie rod using a spare FJ60 tie rod I've been storing since then. Back then I was unable to source a left-hand thread 23mm tap, so I put off the project. Now that I have a couple of sets of 23mm weld-in TRE inserts (thanks @lcwizard) and new 23mm 555 brand TREs, I'm ready to start.

I'm thinking of retaining the passenger side (LH thread) end of the FJ60 tie rod as-is, cutting the other end short, and welding in the RH thread TRE insert on the drivers side. That way I only have to make one weld on the tie rod.

Questions:

1. Can I use the weld-in TRE insert in the FJ60 tie rod? I trial fit one of the inserts in the tie rod, but it was within the slotted/threaded area, which will be cut off. It seems like there may still be a small amount of slop - the OD of the insert is slightly smaller than the ID of the tie rod.

2. I won't be doing a lot of hard core rock crawling, and will be running tall/skinny 33X9.50R15s or 235/85R16s. Is there any need to upgrade further to 1.25 OD X 0.25 wall thickness DOM tube?

 

[JackA]

I think you will be fine as described. Thicker wall tubing does not seems necessary as you don't plan to hit the rocks.
Your set up will be stronger than the stock set up......and that does fine within it's duty cycle.

 

[B y r o n]

I say take the leap and build the new rod from DOM. Even though you may be able to modify the factory rod it won't be ideal. The DOM rod would take anything and won't bend like the factory rod. Off-roading isn't your only enemy and potholes cause more damage than off-road travels each year.