A/C Idler Pulley Replacement (1 Viewer)

[bicycleagent003]

Hey All,

I'm about to replace the idler pulley on my 1996 TLC with an OEM part. How do I remove the original idler pulley? Just keep loosening the 14mm nut in the center of the pulley?

Thanks.

 

[LongDuck]

Next time Title the thread with "RTH" for Real Time Help, and I'll bet you get a bunch of quick responses,...

There's a tension bolt and the locking bolt which goes through the front of the idler pulley. Loosen the lock bolt at the front of the idler pulley, then begin loosening belt tension until you can remove the belt easily, followed by removal of the lock bolt out the front. I think it's a 14mm, possibly 12mm on both.

Sorry the pics not the best; I didn't want to remove my splash panel, as doing this from the bottom is preferable, so maybe start by removing the splash panel! Good luck, 1 banana job.

 

[family80]

Are you replacing the whole pulley adjuster and all? Loosen the bolt on front of the pulley then take out the adjuster bolt. Once that’s out undo the loose bolt on front of pulley and remove. To install do the same steps backwards

 

[Kernal]

Helps to take some photos from (underneath the vehicle) front and rear of the AC belt tensioner before you start so you can get it back together without too much frustration. It's a simple assembly and you'll figure it out, but photos help in case you don't.

Edit: Found a couple of video's showing the whole process, you'll need to remove the splash plate. IIRC I also unbolted the US passenger (right) side of the steering damper (plate) to swing it out of the way to give me a bit more room.



Here's another discussing belt changes but includes the AC belt and tensioner by a Aussie who has some good videos on his channel:

 

[bicycleagent003]

Thanks guys. Yeah I'm replacing the tensioner pulley itself. The bearing in mine is whining. I know the bearing is ten bucks and the whole assembly is $40, but I prefer to replace the whole thing and freshen it up. Thanks, guys.

 

[Kernal]

FWIW a good NSK bearing, what's in there now, is a bit more, $15-30 depending on where you buy it. Chynna has flooded the market with kerapp bearings (and counterfeits) so you have to be careful what you're getting. If someone on fleabay is selling NSK bearings for $10 or less you may end up getting a counterfeit.

6301DDU or 6301-2RS is the same size as the original 6301DU2,
12mm x 37mm x 12mm with a seal on each side.

Another point that goes for buying the complete assembly is that the walls of the V groove in the pulley itself can wear just from the belt (with dirt on it) grinding on the pulley groove for thousands of miles. That can widen the pulley groove in a vehicle with high miles (and/or a really dusty environment) IME.

 

[bicycleagent003]

FWIW a good NSK bearing, what's in there now, is a bit more, $15-30 depending on where you buy it. Chynna has flooded the market with kerapp bearings (and counterfeits) so you have to be careful what you're getting. If someone on fleabay is selling NSK bearings for $10 or less you may end up getting a counterfeit.

6301DDU or 6301-2RS is the same size as the original 6301DU2,
12mm x 37mm x 12mm with a seal on each side.

Another point that goes for buying the complete assembly is that the walls of the V groove in the pulley itself can wear just from the belt (with dirt on it) grinding on the pulley groove for thousands of miles. That can widen the pulley groove in a vehicle with high miles (and/or a really dusty environment) IME.

I was thinking the same, and my original AC pulley looks kinda rough. There was a surprising amount of dried dirt and debris on the backside of the water pump pulley when I pulled it off, and the AC pulley sits even lower. It just looks kind of hammered, and that's before I've even taken it off and examined it closely. So yeah, I'm on the same page. Plus, I'm always looking for an excuse to buy parts, if I'm being honest. Haha.

 

[rhc404]

Another point that goes for buying the complete assembly is that the walls of the V groove in the pulley itself can wear just from the belt (with dirt on it) grinding on the pulley groove for thousands of miles. That can widen the pulley groove in a vehicle with high miles (and/or a really dusty environment) IME.

This was the case for mine. Couldn't really tell until I put the new pulley on.