A/C Gurus - Fitting Question (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Will Van
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maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Yep, 12v cummins
NLXTACY
Wits' End
The number 8 and 10 fitting, just pretend it has threads AHAHA. About to start machining these.
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
Single point machine threaded manually because I don’t have a CNC lathe.
Camotubebender
SILVER Star
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Can this crimper also be used to make hard/soft oil & tranny cooler lines ?
A/C Discharge hose reroute:
As part of my WitsEnd turbo install I decided to move the location of the A/C line that very inconveniently runs right through the hottest part of the engine bay. Its not a required mod with the turbo, and @NLXTACY does a great job with the build kit of including the necessary heat shielding. I just really didn't like the factory location, excess piping, and wanted to run it in a cooler location where it is less likely to fatigue and crack over time. I Found A/C low pressure discharge to AN10 fitting adapters at www.apairinc.com. I removed the entire discharge hose and tube assembly from the fitting at the firewall to the compressor and reroute with 2 AN10 adapter fittings and hose fittings from vintage air. I don't have a crimper so the next step will be to mockup the new location and mark the hose and fittings so I can have the local shop crimp it down at the right angles. Ill post the results once everything is installed.
Part numbers for reference:
apairinc.com - AN10 adapters #451-1113 (2ea.)
Vintage air #10 45deg w/134 port to mount at compressor. 35523-VUG
Vintage air #10 90deg fitting to mount at firewall. 35883-VUG
As part of my WitsEnd turbo install I decided to move the location of the A/C line that very inconveniently runs right through the hottest part of the engine bay. Its not a required mod with the turbo, and @NLXTACY does a great job with the build kit of including the necessary heat shielding. I just really didn't like the factory location, excess piping, and wanted to run it in a cooler location where it is less likely to fatigue and crack over time. I Found A/C low pressure discharge to AN10 fitting adapters at www.apairinc.com. I removed the entire discharge hose and tube assembly from the fitting at the firewall to the compressor and reroute with 2 AN10 adapter fittings and hose fittings from vintage air. I don't have a crimper so the next step will be to mockup the new location and mark the hose and fittings so I can have the local shop crimp it down at the right angles. Ill post the results once everything is installed.
Part numbers for reference:
apairinc.com - AN10 adapters #451-1113 (2ea.)
Vintage air #10 45deg w/134 port to mount at compressor. 35523-VUG
Vintage air #10 90deg fitting to mount at firewall. 35883-VUG
Same fitting on compressor as firewall. In other words, both ends of the discharge hose have the same fitting. I won't be removing the condensor hose so I can't help you there. The high pressure side of the compressor uses a #8 adapter fitting, if it looks like the same size as the fitting on the condenser then I would guess it's the same. Apairinc.com has the #8 listed as well.Any update on these?
Based on the photos, I realize that the AP adapter fitting works on the Toyota OEM A/C compressor. Have you confirmed that AP Air part number 451-1113 works at the firewall?
What about the condenser?
Firewall #10 adapter
Test fit looks good! Just under 4 ft (1/2" - size 10 hose) does a perfect loop, 90° off of the firewall, under the cruise control box, around the stock air filter and between the 2nd batt box (if you have one) 45° fitting into the compressor! Just needs to be crimped, properly clamped down so it doesn't move and charged up for a leak check.
Thanks for this write-up. I am replacing my firewall to compressor line and was looking for this information so I could have a custom hose made.
Did you by-chance have a typo in that Vintage Air P/N? I think 35883-VUG should be 35833-VUG. The one you list is a male fitting. The one ending in 33-VUG is female. Just confirming...
Search Results - Vintage Air
www.vintageair.com
Hi all, I'm finally at the point of putting my dash back together on the 1997 Omani diesel 80 and am changing all the o-rings. Unfortunately, when I was pulling the smaller o-ring off the firewall A/C block (male side being in the engine bay) I managed to drop the smaller one and I think it has gone down the little pan for the A/C condensed water drips. I've been trying to research the size of the smaller o-ring on the firewall block and the discussion above is as close as I've been able to get. Am I correct in inferring that the firewall A/C block uses #8 and #10 fittings as per the below?
If I'm wrong, do one of you know what size the smaller o-ring on the firewall block might be?
If I'm wrong, do one of you know what size the smaller o-ring on the firewall block might be?
Sorry just saw your question about the part #s. I'll look it up when I get a chance and post what I find. ThxThanks for this write-up. I am replacing my firewall to compressor line and was looking for this information so I could have a custom hose made.
Did you by-chance have a typo in that Vintage Air P/N? I think 35883-VUG should be 35833-VUG. The one you list is a male fitting. The one ending in 33-VUG is female. Just confirming...
Search Results - Vintage Air
Since I found this thread so incredibly helpful, I thought I would add a bit more info that offers a different approach to solving the problem of re-routing or replacing leaking hoses WITHOUT GOING TO A SHOP. I have a 1990 HDJ81 and live in the middle of nowhere so I couldn't find a shop who said "YES I CAN DEFINITELY PRESS A NEW AC LINE FOR YOU" within a 3 hour drive! Also, I needed one re-routed due to adding a York for OBA and relocating the AC compressor so even if my hoses weren't NLA from Toyota I still couldn't use stock geometry anyway.
One of the easiest routes I found is to replace the entire manifold on top of the compressor with one that has more standard o-ring fittings; it's cheap too ($40):
This is a 10PA AC Compressor Manifold Fitting, obviously applicable to the 10PA15/10PA17s we use on 80s.
This eliminates the hassle of Toyota's specific adapters at the compressor, and the weird bends usually associated with them. Any AC shop will have components laying around to make hoses with o-ring fittings, and now there's potentially no brazing required.
On the far end of the hoses you have two options:
1) You can just use compression fittings as mentioned earlier in this thread. In this way the AC shop can make the hose and ship it to you and then you can install it yourself by cutting off the old hose and compressing on the original Toyota fittings to the new hose. This also allows you twist the hose for odd angles as necessary.
2) You can use the adapters mentioned above and run a straight o-ring hose. It's harder to design just right for all the angles but the entire hose is professionally crimped/assembled.
I'll also put in a plug for Cool Stream AC down in Tucson who I've been working with and has most items stocked including this manifold. They were recommended in another thread and they are super helpful.
I hope this helps someone in the future!
One of the easiest routes I found is to replace the entire manifold on top of the compressor with one that has more standard o-ring fittings; it's cheap too ($40):
This is a 10PA AC Compressor Manifold Fitting, obviously applicable to the 10PA15/10PA17s we use on 80s.
This eliminates the hassle of Toyota's specific adapters at the compressor, and the weird bends usually associated with them. Any AC shop will have components laying around to make hoses with o-ring fittings, and now there's potentially no brazing required.
On the far end of the hoses you have two options:
1) You can just use compression fittings as mentioned earlier in this thread. In this way the AC shop can make the hose and ship it to you and then you can install it yourself by cutting off the old hose and compressing on the original Toyota fittings to the new hose. This also allows you twist the hose for odd angles as necessary.
2) You can use the adapters mentioned above and run a straight o-ring hose. It's harder to design just right for all the angles but the entire hose is professionally crimped/assembled.
I'll also put in a plug for Cool Stream AC down in Tucson who I've been working with and has most items stocked including this manifold. They were recommended in another thread and they are super helpful.
I hope this helps someone in the future!
@PIP this looks interestingOk, these are what you need to adapt to the Toyota stuff. Find your lengths of hose, and what ever fittings your compressor uses and go to town. Replace your dryer also.
Just a warning for anyone messing with this in the future: I ordered Omega Engineering cross-over "equivalents" of these Denso pads adapters and they DO NOT fit, at least not on my JDM 1990 HDJ81.
Specifically Omega Engineering 35-31003 (#8) and 35-31004 (#10) are close but not quite. The o-ring seat diameter matches the Toyota fittings but the OD of the steel around it is too large. It's also too tall. I tried grinding the OD of the fitting down so it would fit into the hole and it still didn't fit right due to the height. Oh, and the screw holes are too small!
The AP Air website lists pilot diameters for the fittings and they match the Omega fittings, so they must be similar but for some reason not fitting my 1990 HDJ81??!?
Specifically Omega Engineering 35-31003 (#8) and 35-31004 (#10) are close but not quite. The o-ring seat diameter matches the Toyota fittings but the OD of the steel around it is too large. It's also too tall. I tried grinding the OD of the fitting down so it would fit into the hole and it still didn't fit right due to the height. Oh, and the screw holes are too small!
The AP Air website lists pilot diameters for the fittings and they match the Omega fittings, so they must be similar but for some reason not fitting my 1990 HDJ81??!?
