A/C Gurus - Fitting Question (1 Viewer)

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Will Van

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I want to run custom A/C lines for a Sanden SD7 style A/C condenser.

There are two "block" fittings in the engine bay that I need to adapt to conventional #8 and #10 threaded A/C fittings. They are the fittings at the condenser inlet, and the firewall hardline outlet. They are basically the "opposite end" fittings to the OEM Toyota A/C compressor.

Condenser inlet fitting...
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Firewall hardline fitting...
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Are these fittings unique to Toyota? Or are they common automotive A/C industry fittings? Does anyone have any specs on them or know what they are called?
 
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Basically, I'm looking for something like below to adapt the Toyota fittings to conventional threaded A/C fittings. This looks pretty close as it has the correct "shoulder" style o-ring rather than a washer. But I don't know if the alignment is correct.

A-C-Fittings.png
 
Lop them off and tap to an AC shop, or buy a crimper and make the hoses yourself. Reuse the fittings and replace the o-ring.
 
Lop them off and tap to an AC shop, or buy a crimper and make the hoses yourself. Reuse the fittings and replace the o-ring.


I’ve thought about making the hardlines myself. I just need to figure out the flaring/fittings for the hardline.

I’ve done flares for AN fittings, but never A/C lines. Are they double flares?
 
I’ve thought about making the hardlines myself. I just need to figure out the flaring/fittings for the hardline.

I’ve done flares for AN fittings, but never A/C lines. Are they double flares?
It's too easy. You will use compression fittings. Slide the fitting over the pipe and tighten. On the other side you will slide your hose in and crimp. The crimper can be had for 150 or so. I swear it seems everyone uses/sells the same crimper. It's kinda funny.

Buy your fittings from cold hose. I'll see if I can find some part numbers that should help you adapt to the Toyota hardline. Here is the crimper to buy:

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It's too easy. You will use compression fittings. Slide the fitting over the pipe and tighten. On the other side you will slide your hose in and crimp. The crimper can be had for 150 or so. I swear it seems everyone uses/sells the same crimper. It's kinda funny.

Buy your fittings from cold hose. I'll see if I can find some part numbers that should help you adapt to the Toyota hardline. Here is the crimper to buy:

View attachment 1934387

View attachment 1934388
Don't pay a "ac man" to do this:


Ok, these are what you need to adapt to the Toyota stuff. Find your lengths of hose, and what ever fittings your compressor uses and go to town. Replace your dryer also.




Thank you so much for the help!

Just to make sure I understand...

1. Create a clean cut on the Toyota hardline.
2. Slide a compression fitting onto the Toyota hardline and tighten.
3. Use the crimper (linked above) to clamp the rubber hose to the female end of the compression fitting.
4. Repeat for “compressor side of hose using appropriate fittings for my Sanden compressor.

Is that correct?
 
Are you confident on the sizes for the Toyota hardline? 14.5mm and 12mm are what I need?
Yeah. Bloc did same thing:

Air conditioning

First, thanks @Squad1 for pointing me to coldhose.com Those guys are awesome. I ended up calling the number to place the order so that I could check stock on everything.. the lady taking the order was super helpful.

First, a list of everything I ordered
part number, description
2-feet BH8 (#8 regular barrier hose)
3-feet BH10 (#10 regular barrier hose)
SB3002 12mm to #8 metric straight compression adapter fitting
SB3003 14.5mm to #10 metric straight compression adapter fitting
AA0738-AA0739 Denso 10S17F 10S20F Suction and Discharge Compressor adapters
(be careful on the next parts, there are lots of options for reduced barrier hose, aluminum vs steel, etc)
SB1313-3 45* female o-ring adapter to #10 hose with R134A suction port
SB1322-3 90* female o-ring adapter to #8 hose with R134A discharge port

The top two fittings allowed me to cut the stock hard lines and convert to the standard "barrier hose" sizes. I'm not completely confident that vibration won't eventually cause these to leak, but for now it's working great.

I did end up doing what Squad said he would have done if he could do it over.. I cut the stock discharge line under my passenger side battery and kept the hard line going through the firewall.


This is after I stripped the rubber hose off the stock toyota hard line forward from the firewall and am cutting it with a small tube cutter to get a clean end. The fitting on the left went on here. Cold hose didn't provide specs for how many turns on the compression fitting, but I just went to town on it. Seems to have worked.
View attachment 1471559

Compressor adapters including both top and bottom orings. I had to break out the bolt bucket for an M8-1.25 bolt to hold these in. Be aware there is a pretty narrow range of correct lengths.. too long and it'll bottom out and not compress the oring, too short and you strip it. Sorry, I didn't measure the length of my bolts. Also these are so close together the nuts for the suction and discharge lines are extremely close.. but they do clear.
View attachment 1471560
My suction line has a 45 and turns back toward the engine.. this is to get around the "tuna can" on the stock air cleaner and keep the line away from the exhaust manifold. I ended up adding some DEI heat sleeve to the suction line since it is subject to radiant heat from the manifold on this side.
View attachment 1471561
The discharge line fits nicely.. clears my PS battery tray better than the factory line actually.
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Note that a local hydraulic shop wouldn't crimp them.. apparently these use different dies. I found a shop in town that does custom AC lines so they crimped the lines up after I marked the rotation. With the compression fittings rotation isn't as important but with the bend of the upper line I wanted to keep the natural bend of the hose oriented the same.

I really think the smaller of the two available compressors would be fine.. this big "20" model is designed for an escalade with rear AC.. basically it doesn't need to run for very long before the amplifier shuts it down. It also noticeably drops the idle of the truck when it kicks on.. so far no stall but I'll play with upping the idle a little in HPTuners to see if it smooths things out. To clarify I don't think the "17" model would necessarily help.. just that the 20 isn't really needed. The stock GM ECM controls the compressor clutch with input from the climate control module over GMLan.. needless to say I won't be using this whole system. That also means there isn't a traditional "AC Clutch is on" input to the ECM.

I don't have electric fans so didn't need to use Squad1's special fitting to incorporate the GM system pressure sensor so that the ECM can use the fans to help cool the condenser.

I also haven't had enough time in it to determine whether my HD truck fan clutch is enough to cool at low RPMs and vehicle speeds.. but I plan to put a small condenser fan on it anyway. That might also get used for an oil cooler.. haven't started planning that out yet. Need to get the transmission rebuilt first.

Let me know if you guys have any questions.

I think I may have ordered my stuff based of this post actually.
 
Thanks for all of your help! For a variety of reasons, I'd like to create something like this, but for the Toyota firewall hardline, and Toyota condenser.

A-C-Fittings.png


They would essentially mount directly to the Toyota condenser, and Toyota hardline at the firewall.

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With adapters for the above locations, people can just swap in the "Toyota-pad-mount to #10/#8 O-ring adapters" in their engine bay, and route their A/C lines however they want. And they can run whichever compressor they want - GM, Dodge, Ford, etc.
 
That is the part that has taken me a while to find also part number 451-1113 is #10 fitting. The mounting hole had to be slotted an 1/8". I am checking with them to see it it was made incorrectly or if it truly is just different but works for this application. From AP Air

The compressor fittings are for a gm product aftermarket nostalgic ac part number gm1610. This company had the pad mounts also but the cost was much more and I didn't have any reference to pilot size.


Maybe?
 
Did you get your fittings? which ones did you end up using? starting to get warm here in MN haha

I did receive some fittings, but they were incorrect. So I contacted Joey at Wits’ End and he is fabricating custom adapter fittings to match perfectly. Obviously with his setback with the turbo kit, we don’t have an ETA right now. And I don’t want to bother him. He’s getting beat up enough.

For what its worth, I took mine to an AC warehouse (Ranshu) and they cut my factory lines and tig welded different ends on for me.

I may end up doing that. A good fabricator should be able to weld O-ring fittings to the Toyota aluminum-suction and steel-discharge pad fittings.
 

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