No harm at all in doing that. You should learn something at any rate.
So I wonder if you have an intermittent short to ground? I would think that a fuse that melts would be more resistant to a quick touch to ground than a circuit breaker.
A/C blower motor wiring by-pass.
- Thread starter g-man
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No harm at all in doing that. You should learn something at any rate.
So I wonder if you have an intermittent short to ground? I would think that a fuse that melts would be more resistant to a quick touch to ground than a circuit breaker.
g-man
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- #62
THAT WORKED! Using some yellow terminal connectors, with flat blades and crimped to 12g wired 30 amp in-line fuse holder with fuse. Ran down the road for about 5 minutes. Didn't blow the fuse. The in-line wire was warm to the touch but not so warm that I couldn't keep holding it. Hopefully replacing some grounds and the relay may take some of the heat out of it. But this does show that the breakers were not holding until 30amps. They were tripping at 14.
I'll report back after I can take it out on a long road trip but this may be a much easier work around.
I'll report back after I can take it out on a long road trip but this may be a much easier work around.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Great! When all the parts are on and working well (AC system and blower motor on high) I never see anything beyond 16-17 amps. I definitely think my issue was a poor connection at the CB which was causing heat and tripping the breaker. Not because it actually saw a 30amp pull.
morganism
SunkCostFallacy
road trip? I would def still make up the coil/ign ground wire and take it with. Then keep an eye on your tach...
tach goes out intermittently
tach goes out intermittently
Wonder if someone could take a picture of that work around. Mine CB trips on high and I really need to run it on hight on a hot day.
Any chance you could take a pic of what you did?? Mine CB trips when I am on my highest setting. Sometimes it takes a while...sometimes not. Would love to try this work around.
g-man
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- #66
Simple. I got one of these:
and strip the insulation off the end. Crimp on some of these:
And pull the heater circuit breaker out of the fuse box. push the connectors in.
I drove around and with the cover off the fuse box and held the wire in my hand to see how hot things got. It was warm but not super hot. I was able to keep holding it. I have since replaced the resistor and heater relay but still gets warm. Next I'll replace some ground wires when I get some time. But the fuse is holding.
g-man
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- #67
disc the battery before hand. The fuse box is on the hot side of the circuit. so potentially you can get a shock or feed positive flow of current to someplace other than it's intended circuit if one end of the wire is plugged into the fuse box and the other end was to come in contact with anything other than the female plug that completes the circuit. You could possibly blow your fuse. Polarity doesn't matter...just positive current flowing thru the fuse and wire, so It doesn't matter which end you plug in to the CB holder. EDIt : second thoughts..this circuit should be off with the ignition off. You could leave the battery connected and probe w/voltmeter one side of the CB plug w/the other probe to ground and make sure no voltage is showing.
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Thanks....just ordered the inline fuses from amazon. I have plenty of bladed connectors. I will give this a shot later this week when I get my 60 back from the dealer. Getting a new gas tank from the '91 recall right now. Be nice to get the AC back on high. Looks like I will have enough wire on each side (6") that I can loop this out of the box maybe and be able to put the cover on when i am done. This even comes with the 30A fuses.
So far so good. Mine has not been consistent about tripping...one time it would do it after a few miles, another time it would trip after 20 minutes so time will tell. I did drive it about 15 minutes down the road with the AC on high and also returned home with it on high and it worked fine. I felt the wires to see if I could notice any heat and I could not tell if there was or if it was my imagination, so no notable heat. I will report back if it melts the fuse. I can set this in the box with the fuse cover on no problem. On to the next thing........
g-man
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- #70
Mine is holding and with new resistor and after cleaning the blower switch contacts HI is very powerful. After running it a few minutes I am able to go to a lower setting even in 94 degree heat. The next lower setting is now blowing like HI used to. I also tucked the fuse into the dash and put the cover back on.
sorry to ask such dumb questions...but where are the blower switch contacts?
g-man
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- #72
by blower switch I mean the blower selector switch.
Clean the contacts inside the selector switch. You have to remove the A/C - Heater control bezel edit: the large one that is colored the same as the lower dash and goes around the heater controls and the sandwich hole.Then unscrew and pull the heater control out. You can leave the cables connected just pull it out enough to work on it. Remove the instrument cluster behind the steering wheel and unplug the selector switch wires/plug from the harness. Then pull the plastic black knobs off the metal selector levers. Unscrew and remove the switch pulling it out of the back side of the black controls. Once out it comes apart with one or two screws but be careful it has a spring and detent ball. Once the two pieces are apart you can see the copper contacts inside the switch. Mine were dingy like an old penny but after hitting lightly with 600 grit they became bright. If you plan to do this smear some dielectric grease on it after shining them up. After you put the switch back together but before installing in the truck make sure to move the switch to the diff positions and insure that it's not binding and you can feel each setting. The detent ball and spring need to be properly seated and its much easier to take it apart and adjust it now before you get too far in re-assembly.
Clean the contacts inside the selector switch. You have to remove the A/C - Heater control bezel edit: the large one that is colored the same as the lower dash and goes around the heater controls and the sandwich hole.Then unscrew and pull the heater control out. You can leave the cables connected just pull it out enough to work on it. Remove the instrument cluster behind the steering wheel and unplug the selector switch wires/plug from the harness. Then pull the plastic black knobs off the metal selector levers. Unscrew and remove the switch pulling it out of the back side of the black controls. Once out it comes apart with one or two screws but be careful it has a spring and detent ball. Once the two pieces are apart you can see the copper contacts inside the switch. Mine were dingy like an old penny but after hitting lightly with 600 grit they became bright. If you plan to do this smear some dielectric grease on it after shining them up. After you put the switch back together but before installing in the truck make sure to move the switch to the diff positions and insure that it's not binding and you can feel each setting. The detent ball and spring need to be properly seated and its much easier to take it apart and adjust it now before you get too far in re-assembly.
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g-man
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- #73
If you want to you can test the blower before cleaning the switch. Back probe the two wires at the plug on the side of the blower. running the blower on HI I was at 10.73v before cleaning the switch and 11.14 to 11.31 after. I think blower power will correspond with voltage here. So if you're getting more than 11.5 volts you're probably good to go. If your under 11v might be worth while.
I also recommend replacing the resistor. Condensation inside the vent causes the coils to get rusty causing loss of power. Also just wear from 30 years of current running through skinny coil wires
I also recommend replacing the resistor. Condensation inside the vent causes the coils to get rusty causing loss of power. Also just wear from 30 years of current running through skinny coil wires
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g-man
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- #74
Getting the selector switch out also involves
removing the ash tray and take the screw out of the ashtray bracket if it holds the larger bezel. Also unplug switches below the a/c controls to remove the larger bezel. You can do this from above (rather than laying on the floor reaching up) once the larger bezel is loose and part-way out.
removing the ash tray and take the screw out of the ashtray bracket if it holds the larger bezel. Also unplug switches below the a/c controls to remove the larger bezel. You can do this from above (rather than laying on the floor reaching up) once the larger bezel is loose and part-way out.
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My only concern with the CB bypass by adding the 30amp fuse is that the CB is designed to trip by heat, not amperage. So, do you have any concerns about this causing some sort of over heating in the wires? Or did you solve that by simply replacing ground wires, etc.
Also, has anyone simply tried replacing all of the wires involved with this system to a new and larger gauged wire? Seeing that the CB trips via heat, the larger gauge could possibly cool things down, and the new wiring could help ensure there are no shorts in the run.
Also, has anyone simply tried replacing all of the wires involved with this system to a new and larger gauged wire? Seeing that the CB trips via heat, the larger gauge could possibly cool things down, and the new wiring could help ensure there are no shorts in the run.
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g-man
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- #76
I had thought about replacing the grounds from the blower to the fan switch and blower resistor with 10 gauge but it wasn't necessary and making that harness and taking the dash apart is much more work than the in line fuse. It's held up well and I don't anticipate any problems this summer. The in line fuse wiring gets warm but not very hot.
Update- the bypass is working great. I have had work done on my AC and have not given this problem a second thought since I put the in line fuse over a year ago. My current problem is that I have bypassed my amplifier and I have to cycle my compressor off by hand when the air temp coming out of the vent drops too far below freezing....and it does. I have found a solution but still researching it before trying, but for now having an AC that blows too cold in Texas is not something I am going to complain too much about.
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Just thought I'd add a test I did on my 82 fj60 to this knowledge base.
I suspected the 30 amp cb was not up to spec, so I wired up a modern self resetting 30 a cb, and put that in place of the old/new(I had both) toyota cb, and it blew just like the toyota one.
That increases the idea it's the wiring, not the cb.
I suspected the 30 amp cb was not up to spec, so I wired up a modern self resetting 30 a cb, and put that in place of the old/new(I had both) toyota cb, and it blew just like the toyota one.
That increases the idea it's the wiring, not the cb.
Yup. Wiring being very old (especially being impacted by factory splices that are beginning to corrode in many cases) and very much experimental at that stage by Toyota, along with being undersized for powering windows and locks effectively makes for problems like this in the future.
