Build '95 4runner TDI swap

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I was wondering more about when I went into basic settings and you told me to type in code 35 for the fuel pump and then I could read the values that the fuel pump was putting out. I did see fuel temperature and air temperature and pressure. Also cooling temperature. And I’m positive. The crank sensor is working otherwise I wouldn’t see the RPM.

I’m betting that it’s air in the injectors also. I’m going to try to pull the glow plugs today, but if they fight me, I’m gonna leave it alone. Last thing I need is to break something.
 
dohcdelsol93 said:
He has a PD engine so a VE manual wouldn't do him much good.
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Noted. Even so, those shop manuals are handy as all get out, and I am sure that VW produced them for the PD series.
 
MoabPorkChop said:
I was wondering more about when I went into basic settings and you told me to type in code 35 for the fuel pump and then I could read the values that the fuel pump was putting out. I did see fuel temperature and air temperature and pressure. Also cooling temperature. And I’m positive. The crank sensor is working otherwise I wouldn’t see the RPM.

I’m betting that it’s air in the injectors also. I’m going to try to pull the glow plugs today, but if they fight me, I’m gonna leave it alone. Last thing I need is to break something.
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Unfortunately these are not like, say power stoke engines, where you can see the pressure that the 7.3 or 6.0 HPOP is putting out.

I don't think the fuel pump basic settings can do anything other than turn the fuel pump on or off. There are no sensors on the PD fuel system other than temp and injectors, neither of those read out pressure. It may put out more info on the later common rail engines but I'm hoping I'll never need to find out.

The only way to read out PD pressure is the threaded port on the tandem pump.
 
All right. Then my goal today is to figure out how to read each injector as far as the VCDS will allow me.
 
I believe you can use a volt meter to verify the injectors are firing, I'm not sure anything the injetors read during cranking will help you out on whether they are firing or not.

Since none of the injetors have a fuel return line, this is what makes the PD hard to prime after sitting and behind allowed to run dry. There's no lines to crack like there is on the injector lines for a cummins 4bt

Some use an inline fuel pump between the fuel filter and tandem pump to force feed the engine while running.

If I became that desperate I'd simply run a fused jumper wire in place of the fuel pump relay for constant power while cranking.
 
I pulled the glow plugs. They were no problem...snug but came right out. I didn't see any mist when I cranked it so for whatever reason there is no fuel in the cylinders...yet. I was hoping that I could use the VCDS to fire individual cylinders like you can with a gas car and some ECUs. I will keep trying to turn it over and searching for solutions outside of that.
 
Here are a few things to test.

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A another test is clear hose on the tandem pump return. You don't want to see air bubbles. If you see bubbles she either sucking air from somewhere or she's needs more bleeding
 
I put the glow plugs back in. Disconnected the intercooler piping and sprayed some brake clean in and cranked it for a while and it started.
I have a video of it running that I will try to get posted but it looks and sounds like a VW diesel. :bounce::bounce2::beer:

Thank you dohcdelsol93 you have been a huge help and I wouldn't have survived this without your help!
 
That's great! I've been following with interest, my TDI experience is almost entirely with VE injection systems but now that I am working on a BHW this will be very pertinent information.
 
AirheadNut said:
That's great! I've been following with interest, my TDI experience is almost entirely with VE injection systems but now that I am working on a BHW this will be very pertinent information.
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I kept getting told that it takes a lot of cranking, and several people had stories about how it took more than they expected, but it still felt like it must be something else. I don't know if getting it to fire a few times with starting fluid helped or if it was running it with the plugs out or i had finally just cranked it enough but I'm glad i know that it runs. Being a computer controlled diesel makes it all seem like voodoo.

I had an alh that I converted to a mechanical pump and was able to understand how what I did affected the engine. With this thing I feel like all I can do is change sensors and hope.

I'm better with carburetors and distributors. Too bad thats lawn mowers and 40 year old technology. Without VCDS you really are running blind.
 
Luckily these are very good reliable engines and the electronics rarely fail. Some abnormally quick cam wear if the PO didn't use proper diesel oils.

How the rest of the vehicle the PD came from, that can be a bit of a maintenance nightmare if the yota reliability is something you're used to dealing with.

With any ob2 vehicle you're running blind with a cel or non start situation if you don't have an and obd scanner
 
I connected most of the exhaust, bled the brakes, installed the radiator and filled all the fluids then let it idle for a few minutes. I used the VW recommended power steering fluid. That was the most expensive fluid I have ever bought for a car. $40 for a small can. It filled the reservoir with some extra. Hopefully what ever was left in the toyota box wont kill the pump.

I thought I had a radiator leak for a while but figured out that if you spill water around the cap it will slowly make its way around the fins and slowly drip dry. I finished everything after dark so Im waiting until tomorrow to take it for a drive. So far it is doing better than i anticipated. I thought I would have a lot of leaks and other small fires to put out (a figure of speech) but everything is holding together for now.

I had to weld new brackets on the radiator because it was about 1" too high when it was bolted in.
 
I have been running ATF in my VW power steering pump for about 45k miles without incident, way cheaper than the VW recommended stuff! I figure I'd rather replace a VW power steering pump than the RHD 70-series steering box.
 
I have been driving around for a couple of days and everything is going well. It doesn't get hot. It doesn't leak anything. The clutch is so smooth and my old one was in such bad shape that I thought I must have forgotten to connect it when I first pushed it in. Now I need to complete the wiring. The engine is all wired but I need the dash to work and the cruise control is probably the most important thing. Right now the speedometer works because it is cable driven, the fuel gauge and volt meter are working also. I need to get the tach working and oil pressure and Coolant temperature. The following is as much for me to go through it and have a todo list as it is asking for help. Any input is welcome.

Alternator exciter light - I dont think that I need the alternator excitor connection since the car turns off when I turn the key off and the voltage goes up when the car is running. I just connected the original alternator wire and the plug from the harness. So I am going to leave that alone unless someone has a reason that I need it.

Clutch input - I am just going to wire this to 12v key on until I figure out a relay to switch from clutch in 12v to clutch out 12v. Hopefully this will work with cruise control. I spent some time trying to make this happen and ended up needing to use the clutch start bypass button to start the car.

Brake signal to ECU - I have a brake on 12v so the brake wire should be easy.

VSS - I need to figure out the VSS. I looked at it before but cant remember what I need to do for this.

Tachometer - I think that I have an input that goes to the dash tach but I'm not sure what to connect to it. I think that the CAN2Dash has a wire for this but I'm not sure what to do yet.

CEL - I dont know how to turn the CEL on on the dash so I might just use an LED.

Glow plug light - I am not planning on connecting a glow plug light but may use an LED later.

OIL and coolant - I dont want to take the dash apart so I am looking for a way to tap into the harness for these.

I will be updating these as I figure it out.
 
Coolant and oil gauges on your dash, simple as putting Toyota sensors on the VW, connect to the factory yota wires you hopefully didn't cut out of your engine bay.

Use block in vcds basic settings 006 (I think) for checking that your brake and clutch switch as working/reading via the ECU. You'll be able to work the pedals to see them function along with all cruise control controller functions

For vss feed for the ECU, fast-forward, Dakota digital iirc and a few others have a universal vss pickup you can run off of your rear driveshaft flange bolts along with adjustable speedo output/converter to feed your ECU speedo input. I got mine from fast forward. I can take pics of my bracket set up on the rear differential if you'd like. Just a simple L bracket.

For cruise you need both the controls for engaging cruise/setting cruise and a tach 2vss from fast forward.

You might be able to wire your factory yota cruise control stalk, David might be able to help with how to do this. My 87 didn't have cruise and I haven't conquered this obstacle myself yet
 
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I forgot to mention for the cruise control to work you also must have the tach2vss.

I don't have one of these, what it does is fools the ECU into seeing the factory preset RPM=speed rather than your yota ratios.

I can't remember if the tach 2 vss goes between your canbus black box and the vss or vss and the ECU

The wiring instructions are on the site and should also be in the box it came with.

If your vehicle is starting/cutting fine with the key, you're good to go no need to worry about the alternator/battery idiot light.
 
I have the CAN2DASH and started connecting the obvious things - 12v to 12v source - ground to ground...etc. Just that cleared enough wires where I felt I could get my head around it. Mostly I just think I'm intimidated by the possibility of connecting something wrong and frying something expensive.

The instructions have me connecting the tach from the dash, tach from CAN2DASH, and VSS together. I will see what happens. I also have a coolant temp and oil temp out that I have connected to what I think are the correct wires. I need some kind of bus bar to connect all of these and keep it organized. I am going to look for that today.

I wont get the chance to test it until probably Mon. My wife is having surgery on her knee from a skiing accident and we had to go out of town to get it done.

I'm super happy with how it drives and how well it seems to work. It does smell bad when it starts until it warms up then its fine.
 
If it's been sitting for a while it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do a molly lube treatment.
 
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