Build '95 4runner TDI swap

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Get one of the genuine ones from Ross-Tech. I have a Hex V2, I run it on windows 10 via boot camp on my Intel Mac.
 
Ross -tech. Although you can occasionally find them used on the TDI forums. There was one posted up a week or so ago. It's a must have tool, you can't properly do a timing belt change without being able to read torsion value
 
I tried to start it again today. I ran the fuel pump and found one leak in the system. It also seemed to take a little while for the fuel to get to the point of the leak so I don't think I have had any fuel even near the engine before this. It didn't start or even seem like it was trying. I understand how a diesel works but I when it doesn't start I don't know what to check. I am going to work on the cooling fan and AC connections while waiting for the Ross-Tech. I'm guessing that it isn't running because of something simple.
 
Have you pulled the line free from the tandem pump to verify you're getting fuel to the engine?
 
dohcdelsol93 said:
Have you pulled the line free from the tandem pump to verify you're getting fuel to the engine?
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That will be my next step. I was going to pull a glowplug like you suggested earlier then the sun went down and I couldn't feel my fingers anymore. When I searched how to pull a glow plug I found a lot of posts about broken glow plugs and now I'm worried about making a bigger problem. I think I'll pull the fuel line today.

I also need to build an intake/filter and continue with the fan mounting. All of those are on the agenda for the day.
 
You're doing beautiful work, man.

My work got put on hold by the coldest dang winter we've had in years.... I've got my FJ55's engine bay stripped and the 2F is ready to be pulled... just need to undo a few linkages and it'll come right out.

In the meantime, my donor ALH is still tucked inside of the Jetta that I scored.

Come on Springtime.

Looking forward to seeing your swap progress.
 
Once you have verified the fuel is getting to the fuel filter/tandem pump you can get it to prime without the GPs removed, just have a jumper box on hand.

If you've never removed them I'd leave them alone if there's no issue. It's best to get the engine to normal running temp before attempting to remove for the first time.
 
I didn't run the pump today. I got distracted by building a fan shroud. Everything I made today ended up being wrong. It was frustrating. I found a bunch of OEM fans and shrouds for cheap but they don't list a size. If they are a little too small that's fine. I need 19x22.5 ish.

One good thing was I realized that I could keep the stock air filter container in the stock position. Now I just need to stick some piping from it to the turbo.

If I just run the electric pump will the fuel flow to the tandem pump or does that act as a restriction that is only pumping what it puts through the injectors?

Old Nick said:
You're doing beautiful work, man.

My work got put on hold by the coldest dang winter we've had in years.... I've got my FJ55's engine bay stripped and the 2F is ready to be pulled... just need to undo a few linkages and it'll come right out.

In the meantime, my donor ALH is still tucked inside of the Jetta that I scored.

Come on Springtime.

Looking forward to seeing your swap progress.
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Thanks 👍 Its amazing how hard it is to but a nut on a bolt when you cant feel your fingers. I had the engine sitting in the garage for a couple of years before I started. The old engine just kept running...it just got slower and slower until I couldn't keep up with the semis on the hills. I'm ready for the extra torque.
 
You obviously don't want unrestricted fuel pressure going to the tandem pump if you're still using your original Toyota fuel pump as it wants a maximum 20 or so psi.

But yes, if you keep the fuel pressure to proper psi you could run power directly to the fuel pump and run the engine.


Are you running a mechanical or electric fan? I went electric with a 200 degree probe for simplicity. The electric fan/shroud kits are pretty cheap on eBay, they are a direct fit for our radiators
 
I bought the inline pump you recommended earlier in this thread. It's a EB something...it runs at about 7psi. The carter didn't fit very well and I have other applications where I can use it. I was more asking if the 7psi inline pump was enough to prime the high pressure pump on the engine. Or do I need to open something to allow the air out like cracking the injector lines on an alh.

I have an old electric fan that I was trying to use but I have given up. Do you know if the 2.4l radiators and the 3.0l radiators are the same? All of the shrouds I'm seeing are listed for the 2.4. I'm sure I can adapt it but I'd rather get the correct one.
 
Its too late...I bought one. I ended up getting a whole radiator and fan system that is supposed to be drop in.

I'm going to work for the next two days and will have the VCDS when I get back and hopefully get this thing started this week.

I'm excited but I know these last few little things take forever and end up costing more that I had anticipated.
 
Yes, the pump I recommend is ample for priming the PD system so long as you take care of the leaks. I've had my pd pump and even head removed and not had an issue repriming.

I wish I could help you on the radiator size differences but my 1987 model year only offered the 22re so when I purchased a new aluminum radiator I only had one engine option. These are very efficient engines, my fan has only come on (other than being wired to run when the AC is on) when it's approaching 100 degrees daytime temperature. Even then it only comes on after shut down. Switch comes on at I think 200 and goes back off at 190. It doesn't come on very often so even without the fan you shouldn't have an issue firing her up for a few minutes at a time. Even at idle you'll not likely get anywhere near running 190 deg temps running 10-15 min.

If you decide to run her around the block I'd keep an eye on the temp gauge but you'd probably be fine, especially this time of year without a fan.
 
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I found out that the 3.0 radiator is larger than the 2.4. I'm guessing that they didn't change the body or the mounting points when they put in a different engine but either way I got the 3.0 version.

I do have the leaks fixed as far as I can tell. When running the pump I didn't hear any diesel running back into the tank but I don't know that I would. I did start to feel the brakes soften from the vacuum pump running.
 
Sorry if youve talked about this already, but what did you do to make the tandem fuel pump not interfere with the firewall?
 
I cannot hear fuel returning, I can barely hear the fuel pump prime.

I ended up pulling the fuel feed line off and running a few extra feet out the side of the fender so I could see a stream of diesel when I turned the key to the on position. If you didn't prefill the fuel filter with diesel you might want to cycle the key a few times before attempting to start.
 
Fantastika said:
Sorry if youve talked about this already, but what did you do to make the tandem fuel pump not interfere with the firewall?
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I use a td conversion adapter which is about 1.5” thick. Other than that it just worked. I thought I was going to have a problem but it fit with room to spare.
 
dohcdelsol93 said:
I cannot hear fuel returning, I can barely hear the fuel pump prime.

I ended up pulling the fuel feed line off and running a few extra feet out the side of the fender so I could see a stream of diesel when I turned the key to the on position. If you didn't prefill the fuel filter with diesel you might want to cycle the key a few times before attempting to start.
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I did this to drain the gas out of the tank. I’m not sure that the pump is even running so I’ll try that tomorrow.
 
MoabPorkChop said:
I use a td conversion adapter which is about 1.5” thick. Other than that it just worked. I thought I was going to have a problem but it fit with room to spare.
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Would you happen to know approximetely how much room you have between the pump and the firewall? Im doing a similar swap but with a thinner adapter and havent quite gotten to that stage yet, but would like to keep my firewall undeformed
 
Fantastika said:
Would you happen to know approximetely how much room you have between the pump and the firewall? Im doing a similar swap but with a thinner adapter and havent quite gotten to that stage yet, but would like to keep my firewall undeformed
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I can check tomorrow. I’m not going to be there until then.
 
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