Build '95 4runner TDI swap

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Unfortunately David's tach2vss and can2dash (must be used together) is the only aftermarket solution

Burpod from the TDI club has been trying to activate the cruise control via coding in the ECU. I've asked several times if he's gotten it solved over the last year or two but so far no updates.
 
Hopefully I’ll figure it out. I’m sure it’s something small in my wiring. I have a few ideas that I want to follow up on.
 
MoabPorkChop said:
I still haven’t heard of anyone getting a new cruise working. If I do I’ll let you know.
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You may want to contact the fella who builds these stand alone harnesses. I'll be running his ALH stand alone when the time comes... it's sitting in my shop just waiting for me...

I don't know if he handles the PDs, but he might be able to provide some advice.

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Wiring Harnesses and ECU's for Volkswagen TDI Engines
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I driven over 200 miles averaging 25mpg and everything is running perfectly except it gets hot driving uphill at slow speeds. If I maintain under 30mph both lugging it or revving it the temperature slowly creeps up. When I stop and idle it cools off at about 10* per minute. I could let it idle all day without the rad fan on and it never seems to warm up past 75c. I assume that its the tune but I don't have any evidence. I don't have an EGT gauge but I ordered on and it should be here next week. I had the heater running full hot and it doesn't seem to make a difference.
 
MoabPorkChop said:
I driven over 200 miles averaging 25mpg and everything is running perfectly except it gets hot driving uphill at slow speeds. If I maintain under 30mph both lugging it or revving it the temperature slowly creeps up. When I stop and idle it cools off at about 10* per minute. I could let it idle all day without the rad fan on and it never seems to warm up past 75c. I assume that its the tune but I don't have any evidence. I don't have an EGT gauge but I ordered on and it should be here next week. I had the heater running full hot and it doesn't seem to make a difference.
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Air pocket?
 
MoabPorkChop said:

dohcdelsol93 what tune do you have in your truck?​

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Malone stage 2

No issues going up hills (east coast hills)non the freeway at 70-75mph

I'm running the dummy VW temp gauge on the dash and those needles don't move off 190 until about 220/230 degrees.

The only time I had an over heating issue was when I had a head gasket issue. Shed pump coolant past my cap into my overflow tank and the hoses would be so tight they felt like they'd bust after just a few minutes of driving. Would only overheat when driving, wouldn't do it at idle. After it would cool off off I'd get a little burp of air when removing the radiator cap.

Head gasket was allowing compression to push into a coolant passage. No coolant in oil or visible coolant in exhaust.

Try to bleed your coolant system on a steep hill, radiator cap higher than the engine and heater core. As mentioned you probably just have an air pocket
 
I lifted the front of the truck and idled it for a few minutes. I also posted on the TDI trucks facebook page and got some ideas. Lifting the front of the truck can just trap the air in the front of the head. I am getting a coolant bulb next week and will try keeping it raised above everything and driving up and down steep hills. One possible reason could be that I have the engine tipped up in the front more than it was designed for and air gets trapped up there when i'm going up hill. I'm going to do some more testing to more accurately see when and what causes the heat. If its only at low speeds maybe its as simple as a weak coolant pump.
 
If you're positive you're bled properly checking the thermostat in a pot of boiling water is my next go to.

Frank06 (name?) who's famous for his TDI machine work and PD camshafts says about 1 out of every 5 OEM/0E thermostat he gets is faulty so he tests each one before install now.
 
I just made my first run up sand flats where I first noticed that it was getting hot and it didn't get nearly as hot. The fan was running (in the correct direction) when I stopped the truck and the temperature was almost normal where before it would have been 20c hotter. I think the working fan is a big step in the right direction. I am going to connect a coolant ball next week which should make getting all of the air out of the head much easier.
 
Also, there is a gap between the fan shroud and the radiator. I think filling that in will make the fan more efficient.
 
I always make a practice of drilling a hole in my thermostat (along the outer ring) to let any air bubbles through and positioning the hole up.

I used to have a vw diesel rabbit and the process to get the air out was to loosen the upper radiator hose and slide it back off the radiator far enough to where there was a small notch or hole that would let air out as you brought the engine to temp. I've also loosened the heater core hose clamp while getting to temp to release air.

Lots of ways to skin a cat. Just my experience with what has worked.
 
I have been working on getting the air out and it seems to be doing much better. I also drove up 2000' in 8mi at 30mph which would have made it overheat before but this time it just got hot. I wired the fan to run all the time and drove it again (it was 20* warmer outside) and it didnt get above normal running temperature. I think I just need to get a fan that turns on at a lower temperature. Or at least turns on. The temp switch that I have it wired to doesnt work all the time and when it does it is when its already too hot.

I need an adjustable temperature switch that will trigger a relay.
 
I just looked at my temperature sender and realized that it turns on at 210* and off at 195* That seems hot to me. The engine generally runs at 175-185. Maybe I havent been giving it enough of a chance to turn on.
 
The OEM thermostat opens at 190, I believe my sensor also turns on/off at 210/195


I had several of these guys fail. I'd randomly hear them come on cold mornings before even starting the vehicle. Cheap Chinese crap.
 
I put about 1500 miles so far. The heating issue was solved with a fan switch on the dash. The sensor seems to work as a last resort but the switch works every time. It doesn't seem to be getting hot as easily. Idling in traffic in 85* and I didnt need the fan at all. It only seem to start to get warm under load while going slowly and then the fan brings it back down. It never gets hot on the freeway or over 40mph.

I filled up after mostly hwy miles and got 32.22 mpg. I usually get good mileage the way I normally drive and rarely go over 70.

Also, I got cruise to work by using a rostra cable cruise control running off of the tach for a vss and pulling on the pedal. Definitely not the way it was meant to be use be it works better than nothing. I'm going to try to get a better signal for the VSS. Using the tach is not supposed to work well but it keeps me with in 5mph or so. I seems to hunt every now and then.

Next week I am hoping to have the AC figured out. Finding the correct fittings has been more difficult that I thought it would be.
 
MoabPorkChop said:
I put about 1500 miles so far. The heating issue was solved with a fan switch on the dash. The sensor seems to work as a last resort but the switch works every time. It doesn't seem to be getting hot as easily. Idling in traffic in 85* and I didnt need the fan at all. It only seem to start to get warm under load while going slowly and then the fan brings it back down. It never gets hot on the freeway or over 40mph.

I filled up after mostly hwy miles and got 32.22 mpg. I usually get good mileage the way I normally drive and rarely go over 70.

Also, I got cruise to work by using a rostra cable cruise control running off of the tach for a vss and pulling on the pedal. Definitely not the way it was meant to be use be it works better than nothing. I'm going to try to get a better signal for the VSS. Using the tach is not supposed to work well but it keeps me with in 5mph or so. I seems to hunt every now and then.

Next week I am hoping to have the AC figured out. Finding the correct fittings has been more difficult that I thought it would be.
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Nice update. Sounds like you are getting it squared away. In my old Toyota pickup I ran an electric fan with an aluminum radiator and had it on a toggle switch. After forgetting to shut it off so many times and running my battery to zero, I installed a relay (headlight relay I think) and wired the fan to it and to a hot wire ignition on (acc). The fan ran whenever the truck was running and for the next 15 years I never ran another battery dead. There may be a reason to configure it another way, but this worked well for me and was trouble free.
 
I have it running through a relay and the toggle switch gets its power from a key on source. I knew that I would kill the battery if it were left up to me remembering to turn it off.

I did have an optima battery die this weekend. At a stop light the turn signal went to about half speed and the accelerator pedal didn't work. When I measured the voltage of the batter it was just over six volts. Some how I lost half my cells??? I assume it wont charge and I'm going to see if I can get some money back.
 
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