Joe's Doomsday adapter???
Build '95 4runner TDI swap
- Thread starter MoabPorkChop
- Start date
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Joe's Doomsday adapter???
Nope, im making a custom one myself, it looks like it will be about 12mm, dont know if it wil work out to be cheaper but im doing it just for the love of the game. I have access to CNC's etc so hopefully it wont be a total bodge job
After taking a look at the Doomsday diesel one it seems like ive unintentionally made a rip off of theirs
I really wanted to use his kit but my r150 shifter is already right at the dash so I opted for a 2 inch adapter. I ran one that ran the 3.0 starter. Never has a cranking issue but she was a little slow when it got down to the 20s. The one I use now from TD adapters runs a yota V8 starter and no issues below 15. Spins much faster.
- Thread starter
- #205
I measured an I have about 0.75" from the firewall to the top bolt on the tandem pump. I didn't measure the width of the adapter but I can tomorrow morning. I was trying to figure out my VCDS and got distracted. I took a picture that looked good on my phone but was focused on the foreground and the spacing was a blur in the background.
I spent a decent part of the day trying to understand how to use the VCDS. I cant get the computer to scan the ECU. When I put in the VIN that is on the ECU it says that it is not correct. Maybe I just need new glasses. I can connect to the ecu and read several values but not nearly as many as I can see on the videos. I can also activate several things but the fuel pump is not one of them. I can see rpm and it goes up to around 250 when it is cranking. Also, the throttle pedal works and goes from 0% to 100%.
After messing around for a while I realized that I wired the fuel pump in backwards. I will fix that tomorrow and see if it starts then. I need to learn more about the VCDS and what I can do with it.
I spent a decent part of the day trying to understand how to use the VCDS. I cant get the computer to scan the ECU. When I put in the VIN that is on the ECU it says that it is not correct. Maybe I just need new glasses. I can connect to the ecu and read several values but not nearly as many as I can see on the videos. I can also activate several things but the fuel pump is not one of them. I can see rpm and it goes up to around 250 when it is cranking. Also, the throttle pedal works and goes from 0% to 100%.
After messing around for a while I realized that I wired the fuel pump in backwards. I will fix that tomorrow and see if it starts then. I need to learn more about the VCDS and what I can do with it.
IIRC
Go to engine
Go to basic settings
Go to group 35
Activate
Petty sure this has been covered many times on the ross-tech and TDI club if I'm missing a step.
I've never done this on my PD diesels but it's a must on the common rail TDI engine my son has in his Audi. If you don't prime both fuel pumps you'll run the cp4 pump dry and it will destroy itself
I've had VCDS since 2018 and still don't know half of what it does
Go to engine
Go to basic settings
Go to group 35
Activate
Petty sure this has been covered many times on the ross-tech and TDI club if I'm missing a step.
I've never done this on my PD diesels but it's a must on the common rail TDI engine my son has in his Audi. If you don't prime both fuel pumps you'll run the cp4 pump dry and it will destroy itself
I've had VCDS since 2018 and still don't know half of what it does
- Thread starter
- #207
Thanks. I watched a video about it an they found it under the
select control module --- Engine
Output Tests - 03 --- Fuel Pump
I will check group 35. The video was using a 2011 CAN Bus car. I think I trying to interrogate the ECM incorrectly. I found a breakdown of the vin and how to enter a code so it selects the correct car rather than me going on what I was told at the sale and what I think the ECU should be.
While typing this I realized that I have been trying to connect using information from the engine and not the ECU I got for it....hmmm. Sometimes I'm a day late but I'll get there. Hopefully I haven't killed the tandem pump turning it over.
select control module --- Engine
Output Tests - 03 --- Fuel Pump
I will check group 35. The video was using a 2011 CAN Bus car. I think I trying to interrogate the ECM incorrectly. I found a breakdown of the vin and how to enter a code so it selects the correct car rather than me going on what I was told at the sale and what I think the ECU should be.
While typing this I realized that I have been trying to connect using information from the engine and not the ECU I got for it....hmmm. Sometimes I'm a day late but I'll get there. Hopefully I haven't killed the tandem pump turning it over.
I have an older vcds and I don't think I've ever had success with the auto connection, I have always just hunted and chosen the chassis.
Although that's not going to help you....I always get BRM and BEW codes confused maybe try 2006 Jetta TDI and see if that works. I can't remember when the ALH VE engine was ditched for the PD TDI.
Although that's not going to help you....I always get BRM and BEW codes confused maybe try 2006 Jetta TDI and see if that works. I can't remember when the ALH VE engine was ditched for the PD TDI.
- Thread starter
- #209
I found that my chassis code for this ECU is 1J and I think that will connect it. Sometime in 2005 they started migrating to CAN Bus from the K line.
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- #210
Which is the input and which is the return for the tandem pump. I think I got it correctly connected when I did it originally but while searching for ideas on what to check next I have come across a couple of people who got it backwards and now I cant remember which is correct.
I'm going to keep cranking it for a little while more and hope for the best.
I'm going to keep cranking it for a little while more and hope for the best.
It's upside down but this should help. Don't feel bad, I kept going to my other Passats to verify I had everything wired and plumbed right
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- #212
I did have it backwards and fixed it today. the fuel pump is running correctly so it should prime. When I initially connected it I found a hand drawn picture that I followed. Everything to do with this engine is new to me so if this is the worst of it I’d be happy. I ran the pump until the ecu shut it off and tried to start it several times until the battery got low. I haven’t had even a single pop from the engine. I don’t know where to look next.
If you don't have a jumper box it can take a few times before she pops.
I'm assuming the engine was running before removal from donor vehicle?
I'm assuming the engine was running before removal from donor vehicle?
- Thread starter
- #214
When I bought it it was with some other stuff but he said 110k miles and it ran great. I never got to see or hear it but the other engine I bought at the same time ran fine.
- Thread starter
- #215
I haven’t gotten frustrated yet. I’ll try again tomorrow and see how it does. I may pull a glow plug if nothing happens.
If you pull the glow plug and see mist then you know the injectors are firing.
You're able to see the tach moving while cranking so you know the crank sensor is good.
I'm 90% sure these guys will run with the maf and cam sensor unplugged or faulty.
I know 100% these guys will not run with a faulty crank sensor.
You're able to see the tach moving while cranking so you know the crank sensor is good.
I'm 90% sure these guys will run with the maf and cam sensor unplugged or faulty.
I know 100% these guys will not run with a faulty crank sensor.
- Thread starter
- #217
The crank sensor is working because I see rpm when I try to start it. I’m trying to figure out how to test individual sensors today. I’ve been doing some searching but haven’t come up with a way yet.
Where did you get the code for the fuel pump? I’m thinking that if I can get the codes for all the different sensors, I can see if they give data and then I’ll know they’re connected and working and I’m just trying to get fuel to the engine.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Did you pick up an ALH shop manual? I picked one up off of the 'bay a while back (something like $25, I think). When this stinking winter lets up, I'll be getting on this too.
By code do you mean a cel fault code for a possible fuel pump failure?
If so, you won't. If the fuel pump fails you usually have oil in diesel or running issues. There is a port on the side of the PD pump for pressure testing.
The PD pumps usually get replaced for leaks rather than having issues producing enough pressure.
Im betting you still have air in the system. It can take forever to re prime a diesel system. They won't run on air and it takes a while to get the PD, head and all the injectors purged.
It's much easier to turn the engine over with the glow plugs out. Each cylinder is making about 400psi. Spins over much more quickly and much less draining on the battery/wear on the starter
The BRM should run with the cam sensor plugged in or not, not sure on the BEW.
I've had three different crank OEM crank sensors fail because of inner wire insulation deteriorating from age. They all still ran but a hard enough bump or turn would short out and the engine die like you killed the switch. I finally played with the wires enough to cause it to permanently fail before finding the crank sensor was my culprit. Once it failed completely the tach stopped moving. That was a headache diagnosis.
Map sensor if you have it shouldn't matter. IAT if you have it it's easy to check as is fuel temp sensor, if it's 49 degrees outside and reads -200 you'll know it's faulty. Don't need it running to read just key on.
You should be able to watch the injectors while cranking to verify function, I've not tired this. Usually if you're positive the injection harness is turned in and locked you're good.
I did install a timing belt off by one tooth once and it was so far out of torsion value it wouldn't fire off the injectors. When installing the belt don't install with the hub bolts loose, install with it in the location it was in when you removed the old belt. Otherwise this throws off the cam lock. My mistake on a cold 20 degree frustrating morning.
If so, you won't. If the fuel pump fails you usually have oil in diesel or running issues. There is a port on the side of the PD pump for pressure testing.
The PD pumps usually get replaced for leaks rather than having issues producing enough pressure.
Im betting you still have air in the system. It can take forever to re prime a diesel system. They won't run on air and it takes a while to get the PD, head and all the injectors purged.
It's much easier to turn the engine over with the glow plugs out. Each cylinder is making about 400psi. Spins over much more quickly and much less draining on the battery/wear on the starter
The BRM should run with the cam sensor plugged in or not, not sure on the BEW.
I've had three different crank OEM crank sensors fail because of inner wire insulation deteriorating from age. They all still ran but a hard enough bump or turn would short out and the engine die like you killed the switch. I finally played with the wires enough to cause it to permanently fail before finding the crank sensor was my culprit. Once it failed completely the tach stopped moving. That was a headache diagnosis.
Map sensor if you have it shouldn't matter. IAT if you have it it's easy to check as is fuel temp sensor, if it's 49 degrees outside and reads -200 you'll know it's faulty. Don't need it running to read just key on.
You should be able to watch the injectors while cranking to verify function, I've not tired this. Usually if you're positive the injection harness is turned in and locked you're good.
I did install a timing belt off by one tooth once and it was so far out of torsion value it wouldn't fire off the injectors. When installing the belt don't install with the hub bolts loose, install with it in the location it was in when you removed the old belt. Otherwise this throws off the cam lock. My mistake on a cold 20 degree frustrating morning.
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He has a PD engine so a VE manual wouldn't do him much good.