- Thread starter
- #241
I’m planning on changing the accessory belt and changing the oil. I’ve never used Molly lube, but I’ll look into it.
Build '95 4runner TDI swap
- Thread starter MoabPorkChop
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
What are your impressions of the motor compared to the toyota engine? Similar power? Noticeable difference?
The stock tdi motor uses a dual mass flywheel. Is there any noticeable difference in where the rpm's feel good?
The stock tdi motor uses a dual mass flywheel. Is there any noticeable difference in where the rpm's feel good?
I’ve driven a BEW Jetta with both the stock DMF and a SMF conversion, there was no noticeable difference. Engine still smooth, excellent clutch engagement and pedal feel.
Thanks for the input. I replaced a clutch on a B6 Audi 1.8t (gas) with a smf and it completely changed the characteristics and moved my shift points about 1000 rpm higher to where it felt right.
Compared to popular diesel engine lines like the 4bt or 4bd1t or 4bd2t engines that used to be so popular in LC swaps the TDI motors are a sewing machine.
They will make the 22re and 3.slow seem like an engineering failure on the part of Toyota. I'm on 285/70/17 10 ply mud terrains, 4.30 gears and some 4-5" of lift. I've never gotten less than 23mpg in 50,000 miles. I run 65-70 mph down the freeway with AC on full blast, no issues maintaining those speeds up hills. Plenty of power to run up to 75-80 if I need to in order to pass a slower vehicle on the same hills. Keep in mind I mean I85 east coast hills and not Colorado hills. Not sure many 22re or 3.0 motors without extensive power mods can do that on a rig with 33 inch tires.
There is engine vibration. If it really bothers you a heavy flywheel and fluid dampr can be purchased. I kept the 22re engine mounts. Hydraulic mounts can also help dampen vibrations kept in the cab.
They will make the 22re and 3.slow seem like an engineering failure on the part of Toyota. I'm on 285/70/17 10 ply mud terrains, 4.30 gears and some 4-5" of lift. I've never gotten less than 23mpg in 50,000 miles. I run 65-70 mph down the freeway with AC on full blast, no issues maintaining those speeds up hills. Plenty of power to run up to 75-80 if I need to in order to pass a slower vehicle on the same hills. Keep in mind I mean I85 east coast hills and not Colorado hills. Not sure many 22re or 3.0 motors without extensive power mods can do that on a rig with 33 inch tires.
There is engine vibration. If it really bothers you a heavy flywheel and fluid dampr can be purchased. I kept the 22re engine mounts. Hydraulic mounts can also help dampen vibrations kept in the cab.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #246
It is superior in every way. BUT...the toyota motor had 200k on the odo and the last two owners never had a working speedo so who knows how many miles it had. The toyota had been slowly loosing power over the last two years and I never put much effort into fixing it as the TDI was the plan for a while. The toyota did get 18-20mpg even when I was getting passed by semis going up hill. So its not an apples to apples comparison.
The tdi has 110k miles and feels like a rocket compared to the old motor. I haven't checked mpg yet but I will. It is noisier from the engine bay buy the exhaust is very quiet. I have to be outside by the tailpipe to notice it at all. once the engine is revving above idle it seems smooth with very little vibration. Still noisier than the 3.slow but not annoyingly so. The TDI is quieter than I expected. I thought it would be like being in a boat having to speak loudly to be heard and its similar to what it was before. The truck is 30yo so its sound deadening is not up to modern standards. My dog, who is big but is very scared of loud noises, isn't bother by it at all. He used to sit in the backyard waiting for my wife to finish blow drying her hair.
I have not driven enough at consistent rpm's to have noticed anything subtle.
- Thread starter
- #247
I did some wiring and the water temperature seems to be working but the oil pressure seems backwards. It swung to max when I turned it on and settled back down after a few minutes.
The tach is my next issue. I connected it the way I though I was supposed to but it still isn't registering anything. I'm going to look into it and see what I can figure out.
I'm going for a longer drive today to see if any issues arise but so far 15miles and no problems.
The tach is my next issue. I connected it the way I though I was supposed to but it still isn't registering anything. I'm going to look into it and see what I can figure out.
I'm going for a longer drive today to see if any issues arise but so far 15miles and no problems.
I don't know what psi range the 22re or 3.0 runs but the idiot gauge limits might be the issue if those psi readings are low vs what the TDI runs.
A TDI warm will idle at 15-22 psi, when cold she'll run 70-80psi. That could peg the dummy gauge if it's not designed to read that high. .
I installed some windshield column gauges for oil psi and boost. I also like the EGT gauge as I can go into the melting pistons zone if I get a little too heavy footed on hwy entrance ramps for too long
A TDI warm will idle at 15-22 psi, when cold she'll run 70-80psi. That could peg the dummy gauge if it's not designed to read that high. .
I installed some windshield column gauges for oil psi and boost. I also like the EGT gauge as I can go into the melting pistons zone if I get a little too heavy footed on hwy entrance ramps for too long
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #249
I’m planning on adding an EGT gauge. Other than that I’m happy with the coolant temperature and oil pressure the way they are. Th coolant works great. It stays solid except when I first got it running it warmed up to about 100* before cooling down. I think the thermostat hadn’t opened in a few years 
I definitely want to get the tachometer working but it’s not a top priority. I hear a whine when boost is high so I’m going to look for a leak tomorrow. I’m also going to try wiring the cruise tomorrow. It is mandatory for longer drives. That and I mounted the fuel pedal higher than I thought and my knee is up by my ear. It’s not a good thing for longer drives. Around town it is fine.
As far as power goes, I drove up to sand flats and there’s a section of hill that’s around 10 to 15° that I used to drive in second and sometimes have to downshift into first but now I can accelerate in third gear. The difference in torque is ridiculous. The horsepower may be a lot, but I noticed the torque.
I definitely want to get the tachometer working but it’s not a top priority. I hear a whine when boost is high so I’m going to look for a leak tomorrow. I’m also going to try wiring the cruise tomorrow. It is mandatory for longer drives. That and I mounted the fuel pedal higher than I thought and my knee is up by my ear. It’s not a good thing for longer drives. Around town it is fine.
As far as power goes, I drove up to sand flats and there’s a section of hill that’s around 10 to 15° that I used to drive in second and sometimes have to downshift into first but now I can accelerate in third gear. The difference in torque is ridiculous. The horsepower may be a lot, but I noticed the torque.
- Thread starter
- #250
I was hearing some whining from the engine that sounded like a pulley going bad but it was 100% with the boost as far as I could tell so I decided to test it for leaks today. My neighbor is a plumber so with his pressure testing stuff I hooked it up. At first with my dewalt battery pump I couldn't get it to hold much more than 5-10psi before it was leaking more that the pump could put out so I got my big compressor and started again. Everything was leaking and I had to double hose clamp every connection. The fancy T bolt clamps were doing worse than the regular hose clamps. Eventually I got it to only leak a little. It would drop 1psi every 1-2minutes at 26psi. I figure that is good enough. I couldn't find any of the leaks at that point so I stopped.
Driving it after that the torque down low was noticeably better. I have been driving on a dying engine for the last two years so my standards aren't super high but it pulls harder than any car I had before. Much better than my 7.3 super duty ever did.
Tomorrow I am going to try to connect the cruise to the buttons on the steering wheel. I still haven't run a power wire to the radiator fan and I'm sure that there are other things I keep forgetting.
Driving it after that the torque down low was noticeably better. I have been driving on a dying engine for the last two years so my standards aren't super high but it pulls harder than any car I had before. Much better than my 7.3 super duty ever did.
Tomorrow I am going to try to connect the cruise to the buttons on the steering wheel. I still haven't run a power wire to the radiator fan and I'm sure that there are other things I keep forgetting.
- Thread starter
- #251
I have everything hooked up now but still cant get the cruise control to work. I can turn it on and see the bits change in measuring block 006. And I can see when the brakes are applied but there isnt any change when I put 12v to the set or resume wires. I need to find out which bits are associated with which function.
- Thread starter
- #252
I found this and am going to try seeing if what I'm doing and what the computer thinks I'm doing are the same thing. I need understand how the vehicle speed works with the CC I know that they need to work together but I havent figured out how.
I will guess that you need to mount a vehicle speed sensor and wire that to your ecu.
Found this: ALH - Cruise Control Issues - https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/alh-cruise-control-issues.542592/
No vehicle speed signal to the ECU = no cruise control. ECU needs that signal.
There is a sort-of daisy chain of wiring for the vehicle speed signal to get to the ECU. The ECU is actually last on the line to get it.
The VSS is wired directly to the instrument cluster, there then is a separate wire connecting to the back of the instrument cluster that acts as a VSS output, which then goes to the ECU.
Found this: ALH - Cruise Control Issues - https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/alh-cruise-control-issues.542592/
No vehicle speed signal to the ECU = no cruise control. ECU needs that signal.
There is a sort-of daisy chain of wiring for the vehicle speed signal to get to the ECU. The ECU is actually last on the line to get it.
The VSS is wired directly to the instrument cluster, there then is a separate wire connecting to the back of the instrument cluster that acts as a VSS output, which then goes to the ECU.
I'm not positive if you need a vss sensor being that you're using a tach 2vss, David could likely inform you of this pretty quickly.
Even without any vss attached or working, key on not running you should see the tables move when you press the cruise control buttons
Even without any vss attached or working, key on not running you should see the tables move when you press the cruise control buttons
This is my vss pickup. Got the first one from David, second one was cheap from eBay after the first got damaged. Just a magnetic pickup.
This goes to his tachronic that allows me to make GPS accurate adjustments to my speedometer, first time I've ever had a lifted rig with accurate speedometer.
This goes to his tachronic that allows me to make GPS accurate adjustments to my speedometer, first time I've ever had a lifted rig with accurate speedometer.
- Thread starter
- #257
I'm going to ask Fast Forward but I want to understand what I'm doing before I ask too many questions.
I sat in the truck with the key on and the VCDS reading block 006. I am counting the fields from the left to the right
Field 4 seems to be working the way it is supposed to.
First 4 are always 0000
#5 1=when resume/accel is being pushed - 0=when resume accel is not being pushed
#6 1=when set/decel is being pushed - 0=when set/decel is not being pushed
#7 is always 1
#8 1=when the cruise control is switched on - 0=when the cruise control is switched off
I believe that this is correct. When I was trying to do this before I was not getting 5 and 6 to change when the associated buttons were pressed. I assume that I was doing something different/wrong.
Field 2
#1 is usually 0 but occasionally turns to 1. When it turns to 1 #2 will also turn to 1
#2 is usually 0 but occasionally turns to 1. When it turns to 1 #1 will also turn to 1
To get these to return to 0 I need to cycle the ignition to reset the ECU
#3 1=when the cruise on/off switch is set to on. 0=when the switch is set to off
#4 always =0
#5 always =1
#6 I have this wired to 12v to bypass the clutch switch and let the ECU think that the clutch is never depressed or that the car is an auto
When I turn on the ignition #6=1 but after a few seconds it =0
Occasionally #6=1 and I don't know why it switches back to 1. To get it back to 0 I have to cycle the key or disconnect the clutch signal wire for a few seconds. I have not noticed a pattern that would help to explain this.
#7 0=Brake not pressed 1=Brake pressed
#8 0=Brake not pressed 1=Brake not pressed
My vehicle speed shown in Field 1 changes with the RPM of the engine. I believe that this is a bypass used because I dont have a VSS connected to the truck.
No matter how any of these values were set I have never been able to get the cruise control to work. It has never even acted like it was controlling the accelerator for any amount of time.
I sat in the truck with the key on and the VCDS reading block 006. I am counting the fields from the left to the right
Field 4 seems to be working the way it is supposed to.
First 4 are always 0000
#5 1=when resume/accel is being pushed - 0=when resume accel is not being pushed
#6 1=when set/decel is being pushed - 0=when set/decel is not being pushed
#7 is always 1
#8 1=when the cruise control is switched on - 0=when the cruise control is switched off
I believe that this is correct. When I was trying to do this before I was not getting 5 and 6 to change when the associated buttons were pressed. I assume that I was doing something different/wrong.
Field 2
#1 is usually 0 but occasionally turns to 1. When it turns to 1 #2 will also turn to 1
#2 is usually 0 but occasionally turns to 1. When it turns to 1 #1 will also turn to 1
To get these to return to 0 I need to cycle the ignition to reset the ECU
#3 1=when the cruise on/off switch is set to on. 0=when the switch is set to off
#4 always =0
#5 always =1
#6 I have this wired to 12v to bypass the clutch switch and let the ECU think that the clutch is never depressed or that the car is an auto
When I turn on the ignition #6=1 but after a few seconds it =0
Occasionally #6=1 and I don't know why it switches back to 1. To get it back to 0 I have to cycle the key or disconnect the clutch signal wire for a few seconds. I have not noticed a pattern that would help to explain this.
#7 0=Brake not pressed 1=Brake pressed
#8 0=Brake not pressed 1=Brake not pressed
My vehicle speed shown in Field 1 changes with the RPM of the engine. I believe that this is a bypass used because I dont have a VSS connected to the truck.
No matter how any of these values were set I have never been able to get the cruise control to work. It has never even acted like it was controlling the accelerator for any amount of time.
Group 006 (test with ignition switch on)
Speed
Brake pedal monitor
Cruise control system
Cruise control system (indicates if activated, 0 = activated but switched off, 1 = activated, swtiched on, 255 = not activated)
Cruise control system left digit: Clutch switch closed (clutch not depressed) = 0, 1 = clutch depressed
Cruise control system middle digit: CC/DFI brake pedal switch open (brake pedal depressed) = 1, 0 = pedal not depressed
Cruise control system right digit: brake light switch depressed pedal = 1, not depressed = 0
Right cruise control system 6 digit display has a 1, left to right, when:
Clutch operated
Brake pedal operated
Resume speed operated on the switch
Acceleration operated on the switch
Cruise control and memory switched off
Cruise controll system switched on
Speed
Brake pedal monitor
Cruise control system
Cruise control system (indicates if activated, 0 = activated but switched off, 1 = activated, swtiched on, 255 = not activated)
Cruise control system left digit: Clutch switch closed (clutch not depressed) = 0, 1 = clutch depressed
Cruise control system middle digit: CC/DFI brake pedal switch open (brake pedal depressed) = 1, 0 = pedal not depressed
Cruise control system right digit: brake light switch depressed pedal = 1, not depressed = 0
Right cruise control system 6 digit display has a 1, left to right, when:
Clutch operated
Brake pedal operated
Resume speed operated on the switch
Acceleration operated on the switch
Cruise control and memory switched off
Cruise controll system switched on
- Thread starter
- #259
I've been emailing with Dave at Fast Forward. He has been very responsive and given me several ideas on how to fix it. He makes the harness and hardware and my tune is from Malone/TuneZilla. Tomorrow I will try another possibility and hopefully it works but either way I am confident that it will work. The more I go through this the more I learn about how the ECU interprets what it's seeing and the more I learn about how to work with VCDS. I don't know if I can actually change the tune with VCDS but it gives you a lot of information about what its doing and when. Unfortunately I don't know much about diesel tuning. With how well it drives I could probably turn it down and still be way ahead.
At least the brake signals are working correctly. For some reason the ECU wants to see a 12v signal when the brake is depressed on one input and 0v on another input and then both switched to the opposite when the brake is released. Also, the cancel button is described oddly in the factory description so I will need to try with it getting 12v and with it at 0v. I dont think that this is difficult just cryptic.
At least the brake signals are working correctly. For some reason the ECU wants to see a 12v signal when the brake is depressed on one input and 0v on another input and then both switched to the opposite when the brake is released. Also, the cancel button is described oddly in the factory description so I will need to try with it getting 12v and with it at 0v. I dont think that this is difficult just cryptic.
- Thread starter
- #260
I'm still working on the cruise. I have watched TDIswap's videos several times. He is using an alh and his VCDS has different fields than mine but it is similar and he says he thinks it would with the BEW and BHW. I have all of the stuff set up the way he does and I am getting a VSS signal so everything should work but it doesn't. I have not found anyone who has made a PD cruise work. Not that people haven't but I haven't found it yet.
David has been helping me but since everything is wired correctly there isn't much he can do. I am going to try a few things when I get home but I am also starting to look for an aftermarket solution so if anyone knows of anything let me know.
David has been helping me but since everything is wired correctly there isn't much he can do. I am going to try a few things when I get home but I am also starting to look for an aftermarket solution so if anyone knows of anything let me know.