'93' 80 series HELP.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

M

Matty1969

10 Year
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Threads
2
Messages
8
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hi All.
Been a keen reader of the forum for a long time but this is my first post.
I have had a look at other posts but there isnt really anything that seems to fit my situation although many seem to describe some of the symptoms.
I hope there is someone there that may offer some help here.

My trouble started a week or so ago when I noticed the cruiser was running a little rough. Nothing major but enough to notice. She still drove well and certainly had power to spare. I decided to have a look. I noticed the spark plug seals were leaking and the plug tubes had a quantity of oil in and around the tops of the plugs so I ordered a set along with a new valve cover gasket. During this I noticed the plugs were very old and tired so I replaced all 6 with a gap of .89mm. Started her up and she ran worse than before.

I then checked and reset the ignition timing to about 7 degrees with next to no improvement.

The symptoms are as follows:
Rough idle. Especially when cold.
The auto changes gear at very low revs (ascending in gears)
Well down on power, similar feeling to fuel starvation but no surging.
Putting the foot right to the floor fails to initiate kickdown.
On the auto if I manually work through the gears the pickup is much better but still a little dead spot.
I adjusted a small amount of slack from the kickdown cable. No change.
Slight popping from the tailpipe, similar to it missing.
The symptoms are the same on both petrol and LPG.

Car details as follows.
1993 80 series Landcruiser 1FZFE motor.
Dual fuel. (Impco system)
Approx 320,000 Kms.
New plugs. (0.89mm gap)
New Plug seals.
New Valve cover gasket kit.
Checked and double checked all the leads are in the correct firing order.


I am suspecting possibly the leads or a vacuum leak.
I measured one lead (yes just one. :() and it came out at just over 28 Ohms.
If it is the leads strange coincidence that it occurred now.
If it is a vacuum leak, any suggestions on where I should concentrate my efforts or at least a starting point? (Other than under the hood :p)

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to include as much detail as I could.

Thanks for reading and I hope someone can help.

Matty.
 
The fact that it runs rougher after you did the service makes me think you did something wrong. I rarely ever find coincidence when working on vehicles. For starters I believe your gap is too wide. I believe the fsm calls for .031" or roughly .78-.80 mm. I know in the past I've just ordered the plugs from Toyota and they came pre gapped. Also your ignition timing should be at 3 degrees as per FSM. The oil you had in your spark plug tube seals may have eaten up your plug wires.
 
in order to replace the VC gasket and the spark plug tube seals, you had to remove the valve cover and likely the throttle body. Di you install a NEW TB gasket? If not, odds are it is leaking there. That will cause some of your issue.

Also, when doing this, you may have dislodged your trans kickdown cable since it attaches to the butterfly at the same location as the throttle cable. Check your adjustment there.

Did you get your spark lug wires installed correctly or are they off on their orientation?

Did you use the paperclip to reset the base timing or did you just adjust it? Did you remove the paperclip?

I agree with @half k cruiser on the spark plug wires. They should be replaced as well.

Did you get your PCV valve and all vacuum hoses reconnected properly? A vacuum leak can cause some of these issues.

Also, the intake tube may have cracked with the handling it experienced. Check it carefully for cracks.

Good Luck!
 
Hi Half K Cruiser.
It is pretty well what I suspected but I have been messing with all of this now since sunday and its nice to get a fresh view.
OK on the plug gap. I must have read it wrong when I looked it up so thanks for that. On the timing I have noticed man posts on the web about Cruiser owners advancing LPG converted cruisers a few degrees. Is this not something you would advise then?
 
Hi BILT4ME
Thanks for the reply.
I sure did replace the TB gasket (forgot to mention). Yes the kickdown cable is in place and slack taken up. All leads checked and rechecked and are all in correct order. I did use a paperclip and yes it is removed (still in my pocket). As far as I can recall all lines went back in place. A visual check failed to find any strays. I guess it is possible though that one may have cracked though. The intake tube is pretty good. Possibly the best looking thing in the engine bay.

So far I think you guys could be right. It looks like I am looking at new leads.
 
I'm not saying this Is It . Your story Is sounding familiar to others that have made contact with the wiring harness near the EGR. Its very hot down there :) :doh: Like you don't know that. If you keep hitting a brick wall Inspect your harness. Good Luck. ! Say Hi to Brian Isgrove for me. Have not seen him for a decade. Thanks.!
 
Seems I made a rookie mistake and posted in the wrong place.
Sorry about that.
Purchased and fitted new leads and still having the same trouble. Will attempt to check vacuum lines again tomorrow weather permitting.
 
There is a vacuum line under the throttle body that can get missed when the TB is reinstalled. I missed this on mine, but realized it before I started and operated, so I do not have operational comparisons for you. It is between the VC and The TB, under where the cables attach to the TB. I struggled for a while with two different types of pliers to get it installed, but finally gave up and had to take off the TB and install another new gasket on the TB.

Did any of the vacuum lines get cracked during your other work?

Is the Oil Fill Cap on tight?

I see you installed a new VC gasket as well as the Spark Plug Tube Seals? Is it possible that the VC gasket is set properly all the way around and does not have a spot where the gasket fell out during the install?
Are all of the new SPT seals tight into the VC?
Any external air leakage INTO the engine cause operational issues (essentially huge vacuum leaks)
Is the VC torqued down correctly?

If none of the above, the next things I would start looking toward are:
MAF sensor (or AFM, or whichever it is on your year.)
O2 sensors
Exhaust Leaks
Possible plugged catalytic converter

Still thinking about possibilities. I am not familiar with the LPG setup. Is it possible that a connector did not get reattached or that something is stuck open allowing a vacuum leak?
 
A lot of people complain about lpg problems on 80 series's and some take them off.. The more modern injection lpg systems are a lot better.. Check your rotor cap aswell
 
for vacuum leaks.... get some brake cleaner and spray it over parts of the engine when at an idle.... if the rpm's increase, then it's because it's received more 'fuel'.... try to use the brake cleaner to specifically identify the spot. Be a little careful and don't spray willy nilly all over hot parts, it IS FLAMMABLE.

If you think it's ignition related - check your cap and rotor.

Also check your coil, both primary and secondary coil resistances.

When you jumped E1 and TE1 for timing, did you verify that the CEL was flashing?
 
Hi All.
Thank you for all the replies. Update time.
As previously stated I have replaced the leads and plugs (gapped to .7mm)
Today I put a smoke machine to the vacuum system and found 1 minor leak that I know for a fact has existed for some time. I also replaced a hose that had surface cracks. I then jumped the terminals. Checked for the flashing light and set the timing at around 5 - 7 degrees. I started the car and eventually after juggling the throttle it idled once warm with a little surging on petrol. I turned it off for approx 30 mins and started it again. It ran rough so I checked the timing again. It was up over 10. I checked the distributor and it was tight (not slipped) so I reset it again.
About an hour of so later I started it up again and attempted to drive it. Again it ran rough. I had to go up through the gears manually and it was well down on power and felt as though it wanted to stall. Coming to a stop I had to juggle the throttle to keep the revs up.
I stopped and put some petrol in it and it was now idling at 2000 RPM. After I put the petrol in it continued to rev high. I drove about 2 kilometers further, and again no power and wanted to stall. This was all on petrol. It no longer wants to run on LPG.
BILT4ME. I checked the valve cover gasket and it was all in place. No kinks, No leaks. I was unable to locate any missing vacuum lines between the VC and TB as you suggested, plus on the smoke test no smoke escaped from that area.
Cap appears OK and rotor although has light pitting looks to be OK.
Also the Oil cap has a new seal on it and is down tight.

Could it be a knock sensor problem, TPS problem or even valves?
Getting a bit lost with it now.

Thanks.

Matty
 
the ECU needs at least two cycles to reset after you disconnect the battery - you cannot judge from just the first run
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom