Builds '91 Pickup diesel conversion (6 Viewers)

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Oh crap Dan, I feel like I owe you money now! Fantastic stuff!!!!

 

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

Do you really get 30-35mpg? Mine's not Turbocharged though gets 15-20mpg

I should be putting the 5,000th km on my Engine this weekend. - I've nearly spent AU$10,000 on the rebuild of just the Engine and getting it right.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Jonathan:

I do indeed get 30-35mpg, usually. The worst I've yet to get is 26mpg, and that was uphill, with a load, and in 4WD.

I don't drive it over 65 mph very often (maybe to pass someone) just to keep the efficiency up, and I drive it the same way I drive a big truck in traffic (avoiding contant acceleration and braking), but that should make a 2-3mpg difference at most.

I hear that lugging these engines (like using a 2LT to pull a hige load and big tires, etc...) really causes the efficiency to drop. I know that a 4x4 with a 2L will get significantly worse mileage than the same truck powered by a 2L-T, because the normally aspirated engine spends all it's time trying to accelerate the vehicle while the turbo allows it to spend more time cruising at a reduced power setting.

My throttle pedal at 65mph is about one quarter of the way to the floor, if that. That might help me out a bit. Keep in mind that I replaced all my bearings and seals when I did this swap (just didn't get pics of it), so mine rolls really, really smoothly.

Don't nobody owe me money, they can simply thank me when they do theirs. It really makes what was a great truck, an oustanding truck. I loved my 22R-E...until I got the diesel in. In fact, the way I did the swap left it possible for me to undo the diesel wiring and put the 22R-E back in. I'm trying to sell that 22R-E because I realized that even if my engine dies on me, that I just won't be happy without a diesel in it. It's better on a trail (yes, that truck sees some trails--just not super nasty ones), it's better on a road, and it's better at a fuel pump.

Dan

 

[denis]

Nice writeup

-I don't believe the 3L head can be any better than the updated 2LT2/E head. If anything the swirl chambers might be smaller for a higher comp ratio. T3L is a lot more durable because it is NA and has much less heat to deal with. IMO getting rid of the EGR and adding an intercooler will make a bigger difference.

-did the LN130 come in a single battery setup like the small style starter suggest ?
-did you get the built-in or external voltage regulator ?

-you had to make just one bracket, wow ! when I did the 2LT2 swap in my engineless hilux (originally 2L2) I had to redo the tranny and driveshaft mount, move the rear axle back, and seriously mod an oil pan. So much for a straight drop-in, bolt-on project

 

[DanS HJ-45]

-I don't believe the 3L head can be any better than the updated 2LT2/E head. If anything the swirl chambers might be smaller for a higher comp ratio. T3L is a lot more durable because it is NA and has much less heat to deal with. IMO getting rid of the EGR and adding an intercooler will make a bigger difference.

EGR is gone. It wouldn't fit with the LHD throttle cable exiting the cab. The EGR valve was directly int he way of the throttle cable, so it was an easy choice as to which to get rid of. I just made some 1/4" blanking plates (I guess those count as fabrication too )

If you order a new 2LT-E head, my understanding (from the TDM site) is that they send you a 3L head. Same part number and everything. The only differences are possibly some of the cooling passages. Since I haven't had to cross that bridge yet, I haven't had my mits on the parts, but everyone else who has gone through the same conversion deal with a JARCO halfcut in the same timeframe has used a 3L head AFAIK.

-did the LN130 come in a single battery setup like the small style starter suggest ?

That's the way it came. Single battery on mine. I would have preferred a dual battery setup, but I figured I'd get it running and then worry about modifying it. With that Optima, I haven't had any problems. Including 12+ start attempts at -20 degress or so (clogged fuel filter--guess I pushed the biodiesel too far ). So far, so good. I've got room on the left to put in another battery, but like I said, the single Optima has worked very, very well for me so far.

-did you get the built-in or external voltage regulator ?

See the attached pic. I want to say it was an IC alternator, but I might have it the other way around. Basically, it was the same as my stock wiring. The plugs were the same, and after tracing the wires (despite one color difference) I realized they were interchangeable. So I just plugged the diesel alternator into the original wiring harness (actually I extended the 3 wire harness to connect to the LH alternator). Hasn't hiccuped once.

-you had to make just one bracket, wow ! when I did the 2LT2 swap in my engineless hilux (originally 2L2) I had to redo the tranny and driveshaft mount, move the rear axle back, and seriously mod an oil pan. So much for a straight drop-in, bolt-on project

Wow that's amazing! Did you do anything else at the same time? I was under the impression that the 2L2 (2LII as I referred to it above) was the same as a 2LII-T, just without the CT-20 turbo. I know a lot of the normally aspirated engines were for cars, and thus had car oil pans (which dont' work with IFS, and maybe not with SFS), but the tranny changes really surprise me. Like I said, I just unbolted things and bolted the new things into the corresponding holes. I used the R150's driveshafts, because they were newer and in better shape, but they looked identical to me sitting side by side on the floor. I might have just dodged a bullet and not realized it. I'm guessing that having a half-cut really made the process simpler for me, as I had both driveshafts, the tranny crossmember, and everything else in the drivetrain (minus the rear axle). I pretty much replaced the original stuff with the diesel parts from the halfcut because they were lower mileage, but I may have saved myself some heartache by doing so.

Dan

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Alright, I think I get everything except the "bread trick" pilot bearing? What?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Alright, I think I get everything except the "bread trick" pilot bearing? What?

It's to remove the pilot bearing. Some people use a special puller. Some people basically pack grease behind it and then put a dowel through the bearing, and pound on that dowel with a hammer. The pressure behind the pilot bearing pushes it out.

In my case, I broke the puller, and the grease just squeezed out through the bearing.

One of the TDM guys suggested I try using bread. Basically, you take little bits of bread (avoid the crust, it's hard to get through the pilot bearing) and squish it behind the pilot bearing. Then you use a dowel or bolt to squish that. Add more bread, and compact that more. Eventually, the pilot bearing will get pushed out due to the pressure back there. It took me three hamburger buns to fill that space. One of the benefits is that the bread cleans the inside of the crank like you wouldn't beleive!

I understand that wet newspaper works just like the bread.

Dan

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Got it! That's a cool idea.

 

[denis]

See the attached pic. I want to say it was an IC alternator, but I might have it the other way around. Basically, it was the same as my stock wiring. The plugs were the same, and after tracing the wires (despite one color difference) I realized they were interchangeable. So I just plugged the diesel alternator into the original wiring harness (actually I extended the 3 wire harness to connect to the LH alternator). Hasn't hiccuped once.

It looks like an IC regulator. I am amazed TOYOTA made such a variety of setups on the same generation trucks. Apprently the mk3 diesel hiluxes came with the old style alt. with the vac. pump on the back and external reg. whereas the passenger surfs and LJs came with the new style like yours...

My swap was an LJ70 engine into a 2WD hilux with an R151 2WD hybrid, basically I just used the parts I had lying around, none of them were designed for my ride

 

[LeftCoast]

You've inspired me to strongly consider a diesel alternative to my blown 3.0 v-6. What does anybody know about a Nissan rd28 diesel swap for a 93 runner? Did you ever originally consider this? (I guess not, as pissed as you were at the non-toyo part in your rig).

 

[denis]

On the hotrod pipe, if you didn't know already the LHD trucks have a RHS mounted PS pump and the RHD trucks are vice-versa. I'm not sure you could find a P/N for your specific application. BTW I thought the rad with the elbowed outlet only came on the 2nd gens, maybe its turbo specific I will need to have a look I guess. could you measure the core height to see if its 2WD compatible ?

thanks,
denis

 

[WristPin]

This is an excellent write up.

Thanks.
And you even answeed some trans bolt pattern questions I had

This thread belongs in the FAQ!

 

[WristPin]

This is an excellent write up.

Thanks.
And you even answeed some trans bolt pattern questions I had

This thread belongs in the FAQ!

Of course, Jerod has already submitted it in the FAQ

 

[DanS HJ-45]

could you measure the core height to see if its 2WD compatible ?

I sure could. But I'm on the road for nearly another month, so I won't be able to get to it until at least then.

HOWEVER, I can tell you that the radiator is a standard Toyota core. When I took it to the radiator shop to have the outlet moved (it was originally on the far RH side) hoping to avoid the most hated hotrod part they noted that it was a perfect match for (I *think*) the V6 radiator, other than the pipe locations. It sure seemed to me like it was just as tall as the 22R-E radiator was, although it is MUCH heavier. The elbow is original though, it originally exited parallel to the core, facing the LH side of the truck.

So, I'll see if I can remember to measure it when I get home next (feel free to remind me if I've forgotten). I *should* get to go home around June 23 or so. You just need the height of the core?

The RH PS pump would be on an LHD 2LT-E truck only right? I wasn't quite willing to risk taking the chance that it would be compatible with a PS pump from a 2L, so I made due with what I had. I do know that I'm about the only guy on toyotadieselmadness that seems to have run into this exact problem. I'll have to put the correct pump on the "to-do" list, because it would also allow me to put the factory mechanical fan back on. But it's definitely at the bottom of that "to-do" list now.

Dan

 

[denis]

So, I'll see if I can remember to measure it when I get home next (feel free to remind me if I've forgotten). I *should* get to go home around June 23 or so. You just need the height of the core?

Thanks ! I need just the core height everything else is the same. I want to see if a stockish turbo rad exists that fits in a 2WD 3rd gen. I would like to use the turbo specific water outlet/thermostat housing, but then again I could just have my current rad. cap... capped. I just don't want to butcher it at this point because I will need it as-is in the LN130 that will remain NA either in a 2L2 or a 3L fashion

The RH PS pump would be on an LHD 2LT-E truck only right? I wasn't quite willing to risk taking the chance that it would be compatible with a PS pump from a 2L, so I made due with what I had.

Unfortunately the PS pump support is integral with the engine mount and the alt. mount. I have a RHD alt in the shop and *IIRC* it doesn't fit the LHD lower support at all.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Unfortunately the PS pump support is integral with the engine mount and the alt. mount.

Ahhh, THAT's why I kept the setup I have. I knew there was a good reason.

Dan

 

[knixen]

I am going to replace my 2LT-II with the 1KZT later this summer, and will be posting some info...

 

[jlsubthumper]

How much did you spend on this swap? My 22re is dead! and I was thinking about doing the 3.4 5vz-fe swap, but if this swap is as easy as you say besides the wiring I might do it instead. Do you have any #'s on the new motor as in hp and torque? My rig will be strictly off road so fuel milage will not be an issue. It just means I will be able to go farther on the trail. Let me know what you think.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Well I told my wife that I think I want to go diesel when it's engine time, and the first thing out of her mouth was "What about the noise???" So Dan, how's it sound? What kind of muffler/exhaust are you running?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I have a 2.5" exhaust with a single muffler (Magnaflow IIRC--the one with the better warranty ). It is quieter than the 22R-E was. In fact, right after I got it done I drove it about 500 miles without any muffler (just the OEM dump from the turbo and exiting right where the muffler should be). The turbo whine was SOOOO cool there. The only reason I put on a muffler was that at a certain speed, going up hill, I got a wierd resonance that was pretty loud. It is smooth too (I was worried about that because I used the solid mass flywheel). It's at least as smooth as it was with the gas engine, maybe smoother.

How much did you spend on this swap? My 22re is dead! and I was thinking about doing the 3.4 5vz-fe swap, but if this swap is as easy as you say besides the wiring I might do it instead. Do you have any #'s on the new motor as in hp and torque? My rig will be strictly off road so fuel milage will not be an issue. It just means I will be able to go farther on the trail. Let me know what you think.

I spent around 9 grand doing mine, but that includes a bunch of other stuff. I didn't leave a bearing unchanged, I put in new seats, etc... I think the actual cost to get the diesel in and running was around $5,500.

I *think* the 2LT-E is rated around 105HP, but I can't find that number anywhere. Either way, it's FAR peppier and torque-ier than the gas engine. In fact, it feels better than my Dad's 2001 Taco. The torque actually worries me a bit, I feel like I could snap a driveshaft pretty easily if I wasn't careful. In low range, my Toyota is comparable to the old Dodge's we've got (flat fender power wagons).

The downside of a turbo diesel for off roading is that there are some flat spots in the torque band that the engine may not be able to accelerate out of. There are hills that I can climb at 35mph, or 28mph, but 31 just doesn't work. You can downshift, or you can carry more speed, but it's more complicated than a normally aspirated engine. Of course, once the turbo spools up, I'm usually taking my foot off the gas because it just winds up really fast.

If I were looking to build a rock crawler, I'd look at either a 3L engine (same mechanical issues as this, but no hard electricals), or a 1KZ-TE. Both are pretty much immune to the head cracking issues associated with the 2LT-E (and I'd worry about hammering it too hard), and the 3L, being normally aspirated, would have a more conventional torque curve. I understand that they are very similar in driveability to the 2LT-E (aside from the turbo's ability to handle high altitudes better). But that said, I have been nothing but amazed at mine off the roads. In fact, if I did a lot of that, I'd either install a hand throttle or much stronger throttle return springs. When you hit any bump of consequence, your foot bouces off and the drop in power makes you virtually stop, which bounces your foot onto the throttle, which makes you leap forward like a jackrabbit... I'm sure you know the drill, but the diesel has been the most noticeable vehicle I've ever driven like that.

Dan

PS-last I checked, a 3L engine was around 3 grand, and it's a one wire hookup to make it run....