Build '91 Pickup diesel conversion

[DanS HJ-45]

Awesome build thread. Great write up on the conversion.

I will totally agree on how awesome the diesel is. I used to own a 3.0 v6 4runner. It was a pig on gas and gutless. I now own a ln130 surf with a 2lte. It blows the doors off the v6 as well as the 4cyl gas.

Thanks. I LOVE my little truck. I loved it with the 22RE, but I LOVE it with the 2LT-E.

I have a winch and lightforce 170s on the arb front bumper. No change in cooling issues. So don't worry there.

I live way up in the mountains (about 3,000 feet above town), and in the summer I'm already having a problem with cooling if I take the interstate. So I need to reduce my cooling issues, I think the next thing I'll try is to remove the water lines from the turbo. I suspect that my turbo is cooking the coolant, more than the coolant cooling the turbo.

Cpl things I'd highly recommend. Egt gauge and water temp gauge. Than from the turbo back go 3 inch exhaust.

Done on both already.

Add an inter cooler. I hate the idea if a body lift so I added the inter cooler to where the stock air box sits and than added a hood scoop. I also added a second cowl scoop to even further lower temps. With those mods gas mileage has increased huge and so has power. The water temps almost never reach 180 degrees even when towing a 14ft camper. Best part is the egt at most hits 1000 deg but usually hovers around 900. Plus it sounds friggin cool.

The intercooler is the part I don't have yet. Working on that. Will add a snorkel first. Both because I've got one, and getting a cooler intake should be worth a good bit.

Dan

 

[redsonja]

I live at 1300meters so fairly high up as well. Is ur three inch exhaust right from the turbo back? I had first done 2.5 from down pipe back and than changed when I got a dump pipe from Australia. From the outlet if the turbo is now 4 the whole way. Made a huge difference over 2.5

Inter cooler is huge too. I've even upped my boost to 14psi and still it runs super cool.

Stock clutch fan and radiator too.

I actually just returned yesterday from a trip through the mountains. Only on one really really long steep grade did my temp gauge even get to 180 f. Cruising egt was 800 f and water is 175ish

I also have found that the engine likes it be at at 3100 rpm to cruise. Any lower and the temps go up and mileage goes down.

 

[ajordan1975]

Amazing read!! Started around midnight and finished about two am. I've been inspired! Not hapining right away do to plenty of life left in my second gen SASed 4runner w/ a 22re! It's mostly trial at the moment however w/ a swap it would have to become my DD. Then I could let the F250 sit in the driveway!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Another little update...

My little DD keeps on ticking like it should, of course.

So I treated the faux-lux to a snorkel. I bought one off of ebay, an HDPE snorkel, and I think I got a good deal, but I really wanted to have cleaner air for the filter. My property is up a dirty road, and going up and down it as much as I have been (and will be for the near forseeable future) tells me that a snorkel will help keep my filters cleaner, and bringing in cooler intake air isn't a bad thing at all.

So...

Fitting the template...


No going back now!


All done!


Not bad for an afternoon's work.

Dan

 

[missouriman]

that is awsome, what did the half cut cost you back then? I did not see that posted.

snorkle got me to looking at my old posts for snorkles.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...-hydrolocked-again-any-ideas.html#post8369388

 

[DanS HJ-45]

that is awsome, what did the half cut cost you back then? I did not see that posted.

Roughly $3K, plus shipping.

So, with about 100 miles on it now, I want to know why I didn't do this sooner? My EGT's seem to be a solid 50-100 degrees lower with the snorkel!

Will take a while to really give me a good idea on the EGTs, and mileage, but so far I think it's pretty clear that the EGT's are significantly lowered...

A couple of better pics of it today too...




Dan

 

[earl]

So I treated the faux-lux to a snorkel. I bought one off of ebay, an HDPE snorkel, and I think I got a good deal, but I really wanted to have cleaner air for the filter.

I'd like to get a snorkel for my truck also. Is this what you got?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1997-T...&fits=Make:Toyota&hash=item565336bfc5&vxp=mtr

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I'd like to get a snorkel for my truck also. Is this what you got?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1997-T...&fits=Make:Toyota&hash=item565336bfc5&vxp=mtr

It doesn't have the exact same listing as the one I bought, but it's from the same seller, same price, and same description. So I'd say it's safe to say it's the same one.

VERY pleased with it. Took me an afternoon to install it, and much of that time was spent wiping up the snow off of the truck so that I would have a drier surface to work with. Would have been even faster if I would have been in my shop with the plasma cutter, instead of using a file to enlarge the inner fender hole. But either way, that's no beef with the snorkel.

I'm kind of bummed I waited too long to post feedback for them, because they did a great job, and the snorkels (I ordered one for my 60 as well) arrived faster than I could get home to look at them. In fact, I just emailed them to thank them for their service.

Dan

 

[that one guy]

Hay Dan, I am wondering where you got your half cut from?
I'm looking to do the 2L-TE swap in my 1985 Toyota pickup, your dad Berry told me how awesome you are with Toyota diesel swaps. Thanks for the cool thread!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Hay Dan, I am wondering where you got your half cut from?
I'm looking to do the 2L-TE swap in my 1985 Toyota pickup, your dad Berry told me how awesome you are with Toyota diesel swaps. Thanks for the cool thread!

I got the half-cut from JARCO, Inc. I believe that JARCO is no longer doing Toyota truck half cuts.

I also understand that half-cuts are much harder to get into the country nowadays.

Dad's 60 is by far the best one I've done. Practice must be helping me make them look cleaner and cleaner.

Dan

 

[sandro88l]

Ok hello fellow Toyota diesel enthusiast. I'm a newbie to this posting stuff so thanks in advance. I have read EXTENSIVELY for months in different forums and I don't find the specific answers, so here I go. I have a 1986 rwd 22re automatic true 6 bolt one ton full floating rear axle pickup motorhome, weighs bout 5000lbs. The front axle is actually the original old 5 bolt pattern and I'm not sure if that front axle is different from the 6 bolt one and if it even matters or makes a difference for it being a motorhome and a diesel engine swap maybe going to make it to heavy for it?? that's another question I have. But it does have the good rear axle that got upgraded just that year and up for these motorhomes. Anyways I want to swap to the 2lt and maybe even the 2lte. The most common option I see and like is buying a 1984-1986 pickup 4x4 5 speed manual sometimes 2lt or just the 2l here in united states in bad to ehh condition. I like this option because I want everything to look like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel. If i get the 2l I'm thinking of buying the turbo kit on ebay maybe with an intercooler upgrading to the 3l head due to the over heating issued cracking 2lt heads and raising turbo to 12psi. I'm thinking to maybe put the other truck back together also to re-sell as a gas truck. But anyways so to begin I'm kind of lost in a few areas here, will the 4x4 diesel bell housing bolt on the auto transmission that i have now then I just need the 2wd auto 2lt computer or what?? Can i remove the 4x4 option from the tranny if i decide to swap the 2l engine with the manual tranny that it comes with if so how?? Will I need to get a different computer one originally for the 2wd auto diesel?? For the motorhome i definitely want to keep it rwd that's not an option to change, less overall weight better economy for me. I can deal with the 5 speed manual, i kind of like the idea of it, but im also very happy with auto trans so which ever scenario is cheaper, works better or both. I've seen the kits to rebuild these engines and trannys on eBay for decent prices. I have a family owned auto sale business equipped with a nice strong at least 20ft hydraulic lift. plus engine lifts compressors and plenty of tools. and my step father is a decent diagnostic pull out put in mechanic but never worked on diesel engines before. What do you guys recommend? Any input would be GREATLY appreciated I've been planning this for over 2 years now saving a decent amount of money and spending a lot doing a restoration to my rv that I bought for 1,200$ I want it to be an icon for economical innovative off the grid living design utilizing solar panels to power home electrical living and the option of using bio-diesel. I personally deal with web management and I'm a project consultant at a Miami online based product development firm. This Toyota motorhome truck is my dream project. Thanks again

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Ok hello fellow Toyota diesel enthusiast. I'm a newbie to this posting stuff so thanks in advance. I have read EXTENSIVELY for months in different forums and I don't find the specific answers, so here I go. I have a 1986 rwd 22re automatic true 6 bolt one ton full floating rear axle pickup motorhome, weighs bout 5000lbs. The front axle is actually the original old 5 bolt pattern and I'm not sure if that front axle is different from the 6 bolt one and if it even matters or makes a difference for it being a motorhome and a diesel engine swap maybe going to make it to heavy for it?? that's another question I have. But it does have the good rear axle that got upgraded just that year and up for these motorhomes.

The L family of diesel engines are about 150 pounds heavier than the R family of gas engines. Your axle should be fine.

Anyways I want to swap to the 2lt and maybe even the 2lte.

If you ask me, if you put a 2LT-E into a motor home you will be pushing the engine MUCH harder than it really should be, and you will suffer cracked heads regularly.

If I were dead set on an L series engine, I'd suggest you get a 3L (2.8L). You can easily install a 3L (same amount of work as installing a 2L, BTW) and make it look "like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel" as you say. You can also put the turbo from a 2LT-E setup onto the 3L, if you really need the turbo--and it will all look very stock. Still have concerns about cracking heads, but much less than with a 2LT-E.

The most common option I see and like is buying a 1984-1986 pickup 4x4 5 speed manual sometimes 2lt or just the 2l here in united states in bad to ehh condition. I like this option because I want everything to look like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel. If i get the 2l I'm thinking of buying the turbo kit on ebay maybe with an intercooler upgrading to the 3l head due to the over heating issued cracking 2lt heads and raising turbo to 12psi.

You understand that these engines run toasty, and crack heads. Thats good. But realize that more power and more boost isn't exactly going to help that.

I'm thinking to maybe put the other truck back together also to re-sell as a gas truck.

Not a bad idea, although it may get you more money if you were to part them out.

But anyways so to begin I'm kind of lost in a few areas here, will the 4x4 diesel bell housing bolt on the auto transmission that i have now then I just need the 2wd auto 2lt computer or what??

The bell housing mates the engine to the transmission. That's it. That's all that matters. You need the bell housing that fits between whatever engine you buy and the transmission you want to run. Engines and transmissions are built in "families." The 2LII/2LII-T/2LT-E and 3L are all the same family, so the forward end of the bell housing will bolt up to all of them. There is a G family of transmissions (G52, G58, etc...) a W family of transmissions (W56, etc...) and an R family of transmissions. I just listed some of the manual transmission families. The automatic flavors are similar. Some of these are 2WD, some of these are 4WD. Some of them are as simple as replacing the T-case with a 2WD output housing, and others that may not be possible no matter what you do. I don't own anything 2WD (and never will) so I have never done this myself.

Can i remove the 4x4 option from the tranny if i decide to swap the 2l engine with the manual tranny that it comes with if so how?? Will I need to get a different computer one originally for the 2wd auto diesel??

Maybe. See above. But it very much depends on what you end up with in the end. Each transmission may be different.

For the motorhome i definitely want to keep it rwd that's not an option to change, less overall weight better economy for me. I can deal with the 5 speed manual, i kind of like the idea of it, but im also very happy with auto trans so which ever scenario is cheaper, works better or both.

The auto transmission will rob some power. They simply aren't as efficient as passing the power from the engine through using gears that mesh with one another.

I've seen the kits to rebuild these engines and trannys on eBay for decent prices. I have a family owned auto sale business equipped with a nice strong at least 20ft hydraulic lift. plus engine lifts compressors and plenty of tools. and my step father is a decent diagnostic pull out put in mechanic but never worked on diesel engines before. What do you guys recommend?

A mechanic is a mechanic. If you can work on a gasoline engine, you can work on a diesel engine. It may take more time and research than working on something you've worked on a lot in the past, but they aren't magic. The first time I worked on a diesel engine was when the diesel engine on a tractor at a camp I worked at needed worked on--no big deal.

Any input would be GREATLY appreciated I've been planning this for over 2 years now saving a decent amount of money and spending a lot doing a restoration to my rv that I bought for 1,200$ I want it to be an icon for economical innovative off the grid living design utilizing solar panels to power home electrical living and the option of using bio-diesel. I personally deal with web management and I'm a project consultant at a Miami online based product development firm. This Toyota motorhome truck is my dream project. Thanks again

It's a cool idea, no doubt. If it was me though, I'd branch out from the L series of Toyota diesels. 1KZ-TE (which still has some head cracking issues, but not as many), or even newer Toyota diesels. If you can weld and fabricate (or have access to people who can) you can make them look very stock.

Dan

 

[sandro88l]

jdemaris from Toyota motorhome forums has just posted a reply to a topic that you have subscribed to titled "Toyota 86 22Re To 2Lt Diesel".

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------------ QUOTE ----------
A . I have a 1986 rwd 22re automatic true 6 bolt one ton full floating rear axle pickup motorhome, weighs about 5000lbs. The front axle is actually the original old 5 bolt pattern and I'm not sure if that front axle is different from the 6 bolt one

B The most common option I see and like is buying a 1984-1986 pickup 4x4 5 speed manual sometimes 2lt or just the 2l here in united states in bad to ehh condition. I like this option because I want everything to look like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel. If i get the 2l I'm thinking of buying the turbo kit on ebay maybe with an intercooler upgrading to the 3l head due to the over heating issued cracking 2lt heads and raising turbo to 12psi.

C Will I need to get a different computer one originally for the 2wd auto diesel?? For the motorhome i definitely want to keep it rwd that's not an option to change, less overall weight better economy for me. I can deal with the 5 speed manual, i kind of like the idea of it, but I'm also very happy with auto trans so which ever scenario is cheaper, works better or both.

D I want it to be an icon for economical innovative off the grid living design utilizing solar panels to power home electrical living and the option of using bio-diesel. I personally deal with web management and I'm a project consultant at a Miami online based product development firm. This Toyota motorhome truck is my dream project. Thanks again
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My opinion on a few of your questions:

A: The trucks with the 6 lug front hubs (to match the FF rear) use the same wheel bearings as the 5 lug hubs. NO difference in weight-carrying capacity. What often IS different is the brake package. Front disk brakes with the six-lug hubs use a larger effective-diamter rotor.

B: The 2L and 2LT use same type transmissions as the 20R and 22R/RE gas engines. Diesels use their own bell-housings though and the starter motors are on the opposite side. The automatic transmission for the diesel though might have a torque-conveter with a different stall-speed. You'd have to double-check that.
Regardless of which diesel you use - I think you are asking for problems - especially if you want to run 12 PSI boost along with an intercooler. Too little of an engine and too much load. A 2LT barely makes the power of a 20R gas engine and makes a lot less then a 22RE gas engine. 20-21 foot high-roof Toyota RVs are already underpowered with the 22REs and it just gets worse with a diesel. Also the diesel is MUCH more prone to crack heads once you turn the fuel delivery up and increase boost - or sneak more air in by cooling and condensing it. If you had a way to install a 4.88 to 1 rear axle ratio and a 6 speed tranmssion - a diesel might be bearable.

C: NO computer needed if you use a 2L or 2LT. Electrical hookups are very simple. One switch hot wire for the injection-pump shut-off solenoid, and a glow-plug circuit that can be as simple as a push-button and a relay with no controller if wanted.

D: I'm not sure what you mean by "bio-diesel." Alternative fuels used in any diesel with a mechanical rotary/distributor injection pump can be a disaster. Some forms of factory made "bio-diesel" made with high-lube sources like "Canada OIl" - "AKS "Canola OIl" have high lube and are OK. Other types are not. Using "deep dryer" oil can ruin a rotary pump pretty fast. For this reason - unless you are sticking to one type of "bio-fuel" known to have good lube - and you REALLY want a diesel - you'd better find one with a mechanical "in-line" pump, or a new non-mechanical electronic type. All the Toyota 2L and 2LT diesels I've seen have rotary/distributor mechanical pumps and cannot tolerate low-lube or "questionable" lube fuels.

I'm not trying to discourage you. Just explaining a few facts as I know them. I've worked in several diesel injection shops and seen a lot of trashed pumps - usually from people trying to run alternative fuels. Diesel engines always ;put out less power and torque then gas engines with equal bore & stroke and aspiration. So - generally speaking - if you want a diesel to have the same "get up and go" as a 22RE gas engine - you need something with 2.8 to 3 liters.

If you already have a chosen fuel source that is known to be high lube - and some how is regarded as "green" - go for it. None of it really is - but that's not the point here, I guess. It takes a lot of good-old petro-oil to make so-called "bio-fuel." So far, it's been a huge waste of time and money.
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[sandro88l]

ok so my new idea is get a 1984-85 in usa for cheap Toyota diesel manual 4x4. and work on that truck by it self alone for along time and basically prep it for my motorhome when the time comes years down the road. as I said my folks own a whole car lot plenty of space to park a lil truck in the back .My step pops has access to Mitchell on demand btw. and supposedly that's one of the most expensive mechanic programs that has everything in detail for every component. my only concern now is finding a 2wd transfer case for the diesel truck or maybe replace the whole transmission with a 2wd manual 5speed tranny with diesel bell housing. eventually swap out the 2l or 2lt engine with a 3l 2.8 litre diesel and eventually get the 2lte turbo kit for it and add a intercooler. any input?

 

[Mudder]

Why are you going diesel? At the same price it would cost to get an engine and boost it and deal with the head you could do a 2.7 swap or a 3.4. Either of those build would put out more power then the 2lt or 3.

 

[sandro88l]

okay so the easiest truck for me to get for cheap and so I can do this project is a 84-86 4x4 manual 5spd manual either a 2l or 2lt. I see them a lot in bad condition as far as cosmetics. and for cheap 1000-3500. I plan on working on this truck over years prepping it for 2wd and 3lt. that's the final mission

my truck I want to swap is a 86 2wd auto 4spd 22re.

I was wondering how difficult it would be to remove the 4x4 and prep the truck to make it 2wd and I would love to keep the 5spd manual.

im wondering if its worth getting the 3l and putting a turbo on it or just getting the 2lte. which would be more feasible for the application I want?

the Toyota motorhome with the 22re engine runs perfectly fine and is not a power house but can move around fine and does top 65-75. SO LETS NOT ARGUE ABOUT POWER AND TORQUE. if I can get the diesel to be as strong as the 22re then im perfectly fine.

thanks for the input any critics is encouraged im not a mechanic my step pops is and I lack the knowledge Im just tryin to figure out the problems hell face and have the questions answered for him once we begin this project

 

[MatS]

Been a while since I've read this build. It's an interesting build trying to put a 3L in a motorhome chassis... would be kinda noisy and stinky for most motorhome folks but of course to each their own.

I have a RHD 2L truck that I've been considering pulling in favor of a different engine. It's got no turbo and no cracked head, 210,000km on the odometer, brand new timing belt and water pump. Since I bought it I've only but 2-3000km on it but it's just a little weak in the mountains. Just tossing out that idea, you can PM if it's at all interesting to you.

Either way the OP has a super clean bulid, also if you're still looking for a 3L head there has been one for sale brand new on Vancouver,BC craigslist. Good luck with the builds!

 

[arcticexpress]

Hey Dan,
I’m not sure if anyone will be able to provide any insight to this but it never hurts to ask.
I’ll be doing a 2lt-2 swap into my 94 22re pickup. I too am hoping to avoid the electric transfercase. Being as the engine is mechanical it should be fairly simple to wire. What transfercase did you use in your truck? From what I have found, all the usdm r150f’s use a top shift transfercase and the jdm ones when bolted to diesels use a forward shift transfercase. I’d really like to keep my shifters in the factory location, and keep everything sealed up.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Hey Dan,
I’m not sure if anyone will be able to provide any insight to this but it never hurts to ask.
I’ll be doing a 2lt-2 swap into my 94 22re pickup. I too am hoping to avoid the electric transfercase. Being as the engine is mechanical it should be fairly simple to wire. What transfercase did you use in your truck? From what I have found, all the usdm r150f’s use a top shift transfercase and the jdm ones when bolted to diesels use a forward shift transfercase. I’d really like to keep my shifters in the factory location, and keep everything sealed up.

I used the transfer case that was bolted on the r150f in the surf. Someday I will replace it with a manual shifted transfer case out of any old R150f truck (like a 3.0 powered 4Runner IIRC).

Dan