'89 FJ62 w 5.3L Vortec & 4L60E (1 Viewer)

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NCFJ

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Threads
215
Messages
10,332
Location
Chesnee, SC
I just finished her up this morning! Two Cats and a Magnaflo make for a very nice low rumble.

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I took her out for an extended road test of about 30 miles of highway and back roads, not a glitch. I punched it at 50 MPH and it dropped a gear and jumped to 70 MPH in a heartbeat. This is the kind of power Toyota should have put in to begin with. If you drive one of these and get back into your OEM powered 60/62 you are going to think you're driving a dump truck.

Specs:

Chevy 5.3L Vortec
Corvette Z5 exhaust manifolds
2 02 sensors with 2 aftermarket Cats
2 into 1 exhaust with Magnaflo muffler- you know something is up under the hood
I made the motor mounts and cross member to adapter mount in house
4L60E, rebuilt before installed

Griffin Radiator with steam port
Mechanical fan with custom built shroud (in house)
OEM air filter
Walbro fuel pump
New supply and return fuel lines front to back-fuel stays cooler when it circulates

New Quad gauge and Tach, Autometer
OEM shifter with custom shift rod

If you are going to do a swap like this, don't cheap out. Put in a radiator that will handle the heat. Increased HP equates to increased heat. New fuel lines front to back. Fuel lines, Power steering hoses and trans cooler lines are all brand new -6AN. This way the owner can have a hose replaced with little trouble at most shops.

Rear shaft had to be shortened about an inch, front lengthened and narrowed to clear trans pan

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Custom fan shroud

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Shift rod, hat to lengthen the trans side arm to get the ratio right

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Could not find these flanges for the exhaust anywhere, so I made them myself

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Want one in your Cruiser? Shoot me a PM
 
VERY nice! :beer:
 
I just got my FJ60 back from Tor a couple of weeks ago with the same engine and trans. First time I punched it (at 30mph) i was shocked....power and acceleratino was insane. Won't be doing that often, but man the rumble of that engine just makes me grin ear to ear every time.

NCFJ, would love to see a picture or two of your gauges...any tips would be great as well. Would love to have a tach that goes past 4,000RPM.

Cheers.
 
What airbox and plumbing you got going under the hood... Im looking for an elbow to fit the air intake, but the fan and shroud wont allow for it.... Let me know with part numbers and brand names...

Looks good !!!
 
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Thanks guys :) The ear to ear grin is something I can live with for sure.

I used the stock air box and air cleaner and 4" Airaid tube with Spectre 90 degree elbows and a Spectre MAF adapter sleeve. Just because it fit with my swap does not mean it will with yours. Engine placement, radiator and fan shroud have a lot to do with it. I used a Griffin radiator with my own in house built shroud.

I have no clue how to do video.
 
Yeah..."That's what I'm talking about!"...

Game changer.... V8 = :)
 
post up more pics from different angles...showing the engine install.

My friend made me a similar fan shroud... key to cooling nice radiator and good fan shroud in part... Plus GM Fan clutch and fan.
 
You are right on the mark Elbert. These motors DO NOT overheat in the trucks they come out of. My personal favorite is running the steam ports to the water pump housing, which puts the air right back into the system. A steam port on the radiator or a surge tank is the only way to go. 4% air in the cooling system can denigrate the efficiency up to 36%

I also run a return fuel line. This keeps the fuel moving and reduces any chance of vapor lock from overheating the fuel under the hood. Just pushing the fuel back into the tank cools the fuel due to evaporation/ condensation of the fuel in the tank.
 
You are right on the mark Elbert. These motors DO NOT overheat in the trucks they come out of. My personal favorite is running the steam ports to the water pump housing, which puts the air right back into the system. A steam port on the radiator or a surge tank is the only way to go. 4% air in the cooling system can denigrate the efficiency up to 36%

I also run a return fuel line. This keeps the fuel moving and reduces any chance of vapor lock from overheating the fuel under the hood. Just pushing the fuel back into the tank cools the fuel due to evaporation/ condensation of the fuel in the tank.
Nice! How tight a fit were the corvette manifolds? I got the same set for my build but didn't think they would fit. Do you have any pics of the motor and crossmember mounts ?
 
NCFJ, you gotta post some pix of the quad gauge and Tach, Autometer. It's much tougher to steal ideas without pictures. :meh:
 
Nice! How tight a fit were the corvette manifolds? I got the same set for my build but didn't think they would fit. Do you have any pics of the motor and crossmember mounts ?

The manifolds were tight, but usable. I liked them due to the 02 sensor locations along with the fact that they did fit. I have no photos of the motor mounts or cross member mounts.

NCFJ, you gotta post some pix of the quad gauge and Tach, Autometer. It's much tougher to steal ideas without pictures. :meh:

I'll take pics when I get a chance, very busy around here the next couple of days.
 
I mounted it on the frame. The thing is beyond loud. I am going to insulate it a bit to try to cut the noise down.
 
NCFJ...I have the exact same problem...right now my interior is 100% stripped out (only have one seat in, no door panels, carpet etc) and the fuel pump is louder than then engine. Was thinking about trying to build an enclosure to attach over it on the frame if possible.
 
enclose it all you want it will be loud.
If it is making that much noise (it shouldnt) I believe it is working more than what it should and will probably crap out on you guys....
You have an fj62 why not put the walbro fuel pump inside the tank.... I believe it is the walbro fuel pump that is used for the supra's that gives you the 58-60 PSI that your vortec needs for it to work.... I ran that pump for about a year on a 62 tank... all you do is swap the OEM pump for the higher PSI walbro pump......
 
I gutted the OEM gauge housings to insert the new gauges. The quad gauge required a mounting plate.

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Thanks that looks great. any issues in connecting, or do you just wire it directly? I suck at electrical...but this looks sweet, love the look.
 
Each individual transaction at my shop is viewed as Private Treaty. That said, the overall price is variable, mainly due to the cost of motor and trans. I have let my vendor status here slide until I get my new advertising together so I do not wish to take advantage by quoting prices. Send me a PM and we can discuss what you are interested in.
 

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