89 FJ62 - Just Picked Up - Noobie - Help
- Thread starter Ballzzz
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diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
Man, you need to at least get a set of used tires for that rig. It needs its dignity restored!
- Thread starter
- #23
I know it’s not for neglect just little time to do much, but I’m working on it.
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- #25
Your saying when I’m actual going to start it, not just when I remove plugs and try and turn the crank to confirm it’s not seized right?
To prime the oil system, you remove the distributor and drive the oil pump with a special tool (usually a cut off screwdriver) and a hefty electric drill. This is not a trivial job, but a very good idea on a long-parked engine.
As SteveH mentioned above. When you do this , you want to remove the valve cover and actually see the oil being pumped up. It's still a good idea to remove the spark plugs and port some marvel mystery oil in there. It will coat and soak the cylinder walls and pistons.
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- #29
Disclaimer: You can laugh
So I had about a free hour and a half so I figured let me get the spark plugs out and try and crank this thing and hopefully she turns over. Good thoughts in theory.
I start pulling the plug boots and it’s not that easy. I got 5/6 but still can’t seem to get what I’m calling 5 from the front or 2 from the rear. So be it as I understand it as long as I get some plugs out it will allow less compression. So I mark the wires etc and I had read the plugs take a 16mm 6 sided socket. Well that was wrong so I said I think the Toyota tool kit has a spark plug remover. It does but good god it’s not easy in these spaces. The spark plugs for me anyhow are a pita to get too. Well I tried that for a bit finally got 1 out and took it in the garage. Well I have a 13/16 spark plug socket that fit it perfect thank god. Got the other 4 plugs out with a real ratchet and extension wow what a difference the right tools make under the hood.
So a few questions.
1. Do I need to get that last boot/plug out?
2. What bolt should I turn to see if engine cranks? the lowest pully that seems to be level with the bottom end of engine/oil pan?
3. clockwise or counterclockwise?
4. do I need breaker bar or can I use open ended wrench? If breaker bar what size is this bolt?
5. Spray with PB penetrator or no?
6. should I put marvel mystery oil down the spark plug holes?
7. How do these spark plugs look? Should I replace since there out? If so please suggest oem(denso) or better alternative?
Thank you guys in advance and sorry if this seems so basic to you all but for me it’s all new.
So I had about a free hour and a half so I figured let me get the spark plugs out and try and crank this thing and hopefully she turns over. Good thoughts in theory.
I start pulling the plug boots and it’s not that easy. I got 5/6 but still can’t seem to get what I’m calling 5 from the front or 2 from the rear. So be it as I understand it as long as I get some plugs out it will allow less compression. So I mark the wires etc and I had read the plugs take a 16mm 6 sided socket. Well that was wrong so I said I think the Toyota tool kit has a spark plug remover. It does but good god it’s not easy in these spaces. The spark plugs for me anyhow are a pita to get too. Well I tried that for a bit finally got 1 out and took it in the garage. Well I have a 13/16 spark plug socket that fit it perfect thank god. Got the other 4 plugs out with a real ratchet and extension wow what a difference the right tools make under the hood.
So a few questions.
1. Do I need to get that last boot/plug out?
2. What bolt should I turn to see if engine cranks? the lowest pully that seems to be level with the bottom end of engine/oil pan?
3. clockwise or counterclockwise?
4. do I need breaker bar or can I use open ended wrench? If breaker bar what size is this bolt?
5. Spray with PB penetrator or no?
6. should I put marvel mystery oil down the spark plug holes?
7. How do these spark plugs look? Should I replace since there out? If so please suggest oem(denso) or better alternative?
Thank you guys in advance and sorry if this seems so basic to you all but for me it’s all new.
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
Those plugs are toast. Pull them all, and replace them with properly gapped plugs, either that OE Denso plug you mention or something like the NGK BPR5EGP.
The plugs look really unhealthy. I would suggest a full tune-up: valve adjustment, timing, plugs, wires, etc.
With the plugs out, you should be able to turn the motor over fairly easily by putting a socket on the smog pump or A/C pulley. Failing that, you can try to get a socket on the crank pulley? Not sure of the size, but someone will likely chime in. You may need to remove the fan to get access. You can put Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinder bores, or you can save some $$ and use ATF.
The plugs look really unhealthy. I would suggest a full tune-up: valve adjustment, timing, plugs, wires, etc.
With the plugs out, you should be able to turn the motor over fairly easily by putting a socket on the smog pump or A/C pulley. Failing that, you can try to get a socket on the crank pulley? Not sure of the size, but someone will likely chime in. You may need to remove the fan to get access. You can put Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinder bores, or you can save some $$ and use ATF.
i wanna see how crusty that thing is on the underside
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- #33
Ok OE Denso plugs ordered, waht an ordeal. I call Toyota parts its +25 a PLUG but the same website for there online ordering system there 2 bucks a plug whatver very odd.
Forgive me but if im looking at the front of the motor whoch pulley is the smog or A/C? Also when putting siocket on it im tryign to turn it clockwise, right? The crank pulley is the lowest pulley at the bottom of the motor right?
Got some MMO to put in cylinder bores.
What is correct gap on OEM Denso's?
Thanks in advance!
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- #34
Doesnt look horrible from what I "think" im sure i could be wrong. I will get some photos for your review.
I did see behind the front brake caliper shields alot of greese/oil, im thinking this is the birfield/hub leaking????
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
Sorry, I meant to say power steering pulley, not AC, but basically any of the upper pulleys on the front of the engine - you may need to apply some pressure to the belt to keep the belt from slipping as you turn. The goal is to turn the crank pulley at the bottom of the motor, because the crankshaft is what makes the pistons go up and down. The upper pulleys are connected to the crank pulley with belts, and the upper pulleys are just much easier to reach.
Did you look at the service manual I linked in an earlier reply? Read the first section, called "Maintenance." It has everything you need to know to get your engine "base-lined" or tuned up to factory spec. It includes things like what type of spark plug to use and how to gap it.
People on this forum are generous with their knowledge, but you also have to put in a bit of an effort to find routine information that is readily available.
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- Thread starter
- #36
Understood, so just turn any of those top ones because its easier to access, in turn moving the belt to hopefully turn the crank pulley at the bottom. Clockwise right?
Yes, its printed and in a binder. When I originally read it I feel like I easily found that info but last ngiht when I was in and out I didnt find it, I know its there I will get to my reading again tonight.
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- #38
I have been reading that the OEM plug wires are really well made. They are obviously 36+ years old and my thought is I should change them, do you all agree? They seem pricey OEM but quality wise seem to be great for that old school tech. Thoughts or input? Or just leave them for the time being and just change the plugs?
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Change them. That's one of the "while I'm in there" tasks that's a piece of cake and good insurance.
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Old Nick
GOLD Star
Only clockwise. I don't have the FSM open in front of me, but I recall that there are "warnings" about only turning the engine clockwise.
