- Thread starter
- #1,281
These will gusset the rear. I'll leave the strap mounting points where they are. No clearance issues on this side.
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,282
Here's the first test piece (front one). Welded only on the opposite side right now. I had to cut off the original strap mounting point.
AS usual nice work !
- Thread starter
- #1,284
Well not much progress with all the appointments and family stuff. Plus the weather has stopped me a few times. I thought I'd better give an update before my thread disappears to the back pages. I did more planning than actual work but I did make a little progress.
My "revision" to my fuel tank bracket isn't going to work. The gussets themselves are ok. The flange where the straps bolt on are right where the bed cross member is. I have a revision to the revision that I'm pretty sure will work. I just haven't had the time to do it.
Here's pics of the problem looking up from under the bed. I'll get pics of revision 2 once I do it.
My "revision" to my fuel tank bracket isn't going to work. The gussets themselves are ok. The flange where the straps bolt on are right where the bed cross member is. I have a revision to the revision that I'm pretty sure will work. I just haven't had the time to do it.
Here's pics of the problem looking up from under the bed. I'll get pics of revision 2 once I do it.
- Thread starter
- #1,285
The plan is to have the straps come a little lower and the flange will bend inward. I have a notch with a stud. I'll just have to have a nut push the strap down to tighten with a second nut to lock it.
- Thread starter
- #1,286
I did manage to mount my steering cooler between the radiator and condenser on it's own brackets. Here's pics before final welding and paint.
- Thread starter
- #1,287
Plenty of room between the two. Easy to get to from either the front or rear. Mainly, I just want to be able to pull my radiator without having to take the cooler with it.
I have a parallel flow condenser to try out as well.
I have a parallel flow condenser to try out as well.
- Thread starter
- #1,288
I'm struggling with location of the steering reservoir mainly because of hood clearance but especially because I haven't figured out my air intake/filter.
I was considering a Donaldson canister with air supplied from the cowl. It's 8" diameter and about 15" in length plus the tubing involved. I'll have to get back to that AFTER I get my fuel system done.
I was considering a Donaldson canister with air supplied from the cowl. It's 8" diameter and about 15" in length plus the tubing involved. I'll have to get back to that AFTER I get my fuel system done.
Hard for me to tell what’s going on in the pictures
What’s the flat bar that extends under the bed for ?
- Thread starter
- #1,290
Yeah I guess it is tough to visualize. There's a cross member spot welded to the bed floor that goes across and sits on the frame pedestals to bolt the bed down.
The flat piece is where the straps attach. No hole in it yet. It's sitting directly under that cross member
Not sure if I answered your question though.
The flat piece is where the straps attach. No hole in it yet. It's sitting directly under that cross member
Not sure if I answered your question though.
- Thread starter
- #1,291
Pop Pop (me) is dying to get out in the garage and work on this but I'm babysitting my 3 year old granddaughter today.
I'll get better pics once I finish it.
I'll get better pics once I finish it.
That solution will work if you don't have AC.
- Thread starter
- #1,293
@pappy, the cooler is dang near centered between the rad and condenser without touching either. Kinda hard to see in my pic but it would work with or without A/C. Pic is looking down from the top.
The cooler is 3/4" thick. I used 3/4" x 1/8" flat bar to make the bracket across the top. The bottom piece is made from the 16 gauge mounting pieces I got with my battery box that I didn't use.
To add, It did clear the OEM condenser as well. I test fit them both.
The cooler is 3/4" thick. I used 3/4" x 1/8" flat bar to make the bracket across the top. The bottom piece is made from the 16 gauge mounting pieces I got with my battery box that I didn't use.
To add, It did clear the OEM condenser as well. I test fit them both.
- Thread starter
- #1,294
Between "life happening" and $hitty weather, I've only been able to get a little time here and there to pick away at this. Looks like my plan C is going to work with my fuel tank mount. I am SO done with this tank and ready to move on.
I still need to clean it up and paint it. I had to weld sections on the straps to lengthen them. I'll most likely get new ones down the road even though these will probably be fine.
I didn't have the room to run the flange of the straps normally so I flipped the front ones around to the inside. The rears I left as is. All I did is cut a notch and weld in some angle. I shaped the bolts I had kind of like plow bolts that hold cutting edges on tractor buckets, used a countersink on the hole in the angle and TIG'd them in.
Everything clears, it's good and tight and easy to R&I so hopefully tank mount version 3 is OK as is. I also grabbed muffler U-bolts to clamp one center point at the rear to the cross brace between the frame rails instead of the hose clamps. There is one bolt on each front corner pulling it down to the frame rails.
It's been freezing, windy and raining so I'll probably mount it up as is so I can run fuel and vent lines.
I still need to clean it up and paint it. I had to weld sections on the straps to lengthen them. I'll most likely get new ones down the road even though these will probably be fine.
I didn't have the room to run the flange of the straps normally so I flipped the front ones around to the inside. The rears I left as is. All I did is cut a notch and weld in some angle. I shaped the bolts I had kind of like plow bolts that hold cutting edges on tractor buckets, used a countersink on the hole in the angle and TIG'd them in.
Everything clears, it's good and tight and easy to R&I so hopefully tank mount version 3 is OK as is. I also grabbed muffler U-bolts to clamp one center point at the rear to the cross brace between the frame rails instead of the hose clamps. There is one bolt on each front corner pulling it down to the frame rails.
It's been freezing, windy and raining so I'll probably mount it up as is so I can run fuel and vent lines.
- Thread starter
- #1,295
More pics so you can see what the heck I'm talking about. Only one hold down strap at this point.
ntsqd
technerd
This band:
is SS pallet banding strap from amazonian shipping supply. I have a LOT left if you want to try some of it for the next gen straps.
is SS pallet banding strap from amazonian shipping supply. I have a LOT left if you want to try some of it for the next gen straps.
- Thread starter
- #1,297
I used the Tanks Inc straps. It's 1 3/8" wide and I think it's 16 gauge. I bought the cheaper galvanized stuff. They do offer them in stainless.
How wide is the stuff you have? I like that setup.
How wide is the stuff you have? I like that setup.
ntsqd
technerd
It's quite a bit narrower, didn't realize how wide what you have, is. Can measure it, but I'll guess in the 7/8" range.
Thanks! Figuring out how to transport propane on the long dirt trips has definitely taken a few iterations. Realizing that we rarely used even 1/2 of a bbq tank and moving to the tall, skinny 2.5 gal tank has been a game changer.
Thanks! Figuring out how to transport propane on the long dirt trips has definitely taken a few iterations. Realizing that we rarely used even 1/2 of a bbq tank and moving to the tall, skinny 2.5 gal tank has been a game changer.
- Thread starter
- #1,299
Life has been really getting in the way of this project. I just got back from freezing Wisconsin and my fuel gauge sending unit was waiting for me. I looked for one that was made here in the U.S.A and had great reviews so hopefully I picked a good one.
The mounting screws are the wrong size for my tank but I like the sealing washers it came with better than just the O-rings I got with the tank. They do fit the screws that fit my tank. I'm hoping tomorrow I can leak check it before I go any further. I'm going to end up pulling the cab to run the fuel lines. I have spools of hardline to shape to fit and it won't be fun with the cab on.
The mounting screws are the wrong size for my tank but I like the sealing washers it came with better than just the O-rings I got with the tank. They do fit the screws that fit my tank. I'm hoping tomorrow I can leak check it before I go any further. I'm going to end up pulling the cab to run the fuel lines. I have spools of hardline to shape to fit and it won't be fun with the cab on.
- Thread starter
- #1,300
Well I couldn't wait until tomorrow so I rigged up a bicycle pump and pressure checked it.
I had two leaks. The flange gasket for the sender and a bolt on the fuel neck. I just didn't have the sender tight enough and just snugging up the bolts a little fixed it. I just used an 8 mm socket on a screwdriver handle.
The leaky bolt is because I didn't have any o-rings on the bolts. Any of them, and only one leaked. I don't really like having an o-ring just compressed between the bolt flange and a flat surface. The bolt won't be torqued, just snug enough to prevent a leak. I'm concerned about it drying out or shrinking and causing a fuel leak over time.
The flange gaskets work well. The leak is at the bolt threads. I'm going to try this stuff on the threads. Anybody have any experience with it? It's fuel "resistant" so IDK how it is with constant exposure to gas. The bolts are small 10-32 so it's not a lot of surface area.
I used Permatex Aviation sealant and Indian Head Shellac successfully in the past on fuel tanks in boats but I had leaks develop with today's ethanol gas.
I had two leaks. The flange gasket for the sender and a bolt on the fuel neck. I just didn't have the sender tight enough and just snugging up the bolts a little fixed it. I just used an 8 mm socket on a screwdriver handle.
The leaky bolt is because I didn't have any o-rings on the bolts. Any of them, and only one leaked. I don't really like having an o-ring just compressed between the bolt flange and a flat surface. The bolt won't be torqued, just snug enough to prevent a leak. I'm concerned about it drying out or shrinking and causing a fuel leak over time.
The flange gaskets work well. The leak is at the bolt threads. I'm going to try this stuff on the threads. Anybody have any experience with it? It's fuel "resistant" so IDK how it is with constant exposure to gas. The bolts are small 10-32 so it's not a lot of surface area.
I used Permatex Aviation sealant and Indian Head Shellac successfully in the past on fuel tanks in boats but I had leaks develop with today's ethanol gas.
