- Thread starter
- #261
Blue cruiser Is there an actual part you recommend?
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
No, but I’m sure a guy like you could make something. No one is going to look at your hood anyway when they see all that shiny 3-link hardware. Aren’t you in AZ where it never rains? Just cut a hole and leave it…
- Thread starter
- #263
That's too funny. And true. I was hoping you had an off the shelf item. I'll figure something out.
I still might put in a body spacer.
It's challenging to hack up a truck AND keep it "looking" stock......ish.
I still might put in a body spacer.
It's challenging to hack up a truck AND keep it "looking" stock......ish.
- Thread starter
- #264
I thought about just cutting the minimum size hole and getting a decal made that looks like torn metal. Kind of like those bullet hole decals.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
That's too funny. And true. I was hoping you had an off the shelf item. I'll figure something out.
I still might put in a body spacer.
I don’t think your linked crawler on 37s is going to fool anybody into thinking it’s stockish.
Guy with an FJC bought an (aftermarket) 3rd Gen 4Runner hood, cut the bulge out, and integrated it into the FJC hood.
New Primed Steel Hood w/ Scoop Cut-Out For 1999-2002 Toyota 4Runner TO1230178 | eBay
Partslink Number: TO1230178. 1999-2002 Toyota 4Runner. Toyota 4Runner. Models with Scoop Cut-Out. Models with Scoop Cut-Out 1999-2002. Product Type: Hood. Material: Steel. Notifíquenos cuando planee llegar para que podamos verificar que el artículo está listo para ser recogido.
www.ebay.com
- Thread starter
- #267
Some scoops cost more than that hood. Hey I'm open to ideas. I have PLENTY of time to figure it out.
And I said stock ISH.
What I mean is not a truggy I guess. You'll know it's a Toyota pickup when you look at it. A Badass one though 
And I said stock ISH.
What I mean is not a truggy I guess. You'll know it's a Toyota pickup when you look at it. A Badass one though
- Thread starter
- #268
I cut out a 3/16" frame gusset for the inside frame rail at the steering box. The frame was kind of beat here. Plus I moved the steering box forward. It will tie into the corner as well.
I used the extra steering shaft tubing for crush tubes or anti crush tubes, whatever they're called. Perfect size for the 1/2" bolts.
I started welding it in and my welding hood quit working. I'm going to do all the finish welding later anyway. When I can flip the frame around instead of me contorting around it. My welds in the pic show why that's a good idea. I was reaching through the radiator support and.... well, gorilla weld. Ugly but strong.
I used the extra steering shaft tubing for crush tubes or anti crush tubes, whatever they're called. Perfect size for the 1/2" bolts.
I started welding it in and my welding hood quit working. I'm going to do all the finish welding later anyway. When I can flip the frame around instead of me contorting around it. My welds in the pic show why that's a good idea. I was reaching through the radiator support and.... well, gorilla weld. Ugly but strong.
- Thread starter
- #269
The steering box plating is on. I haven't welded the inside yet. I'll get it when the engine is out.
I tried my notched shock tower and it just wasn't notched deep enough. The steering shaft basically runs right through the middle of the center spine of the tower.
A band saw would have been nice. All I have is cutoff wheels and my air saw with a full length hacksaw blade.
The notch is angled on two planes so it took me a while to get it done right. It's an expensive part and I sure didn't want to ruin it. I need to get a piece of 2" x .250 wall square tube to weld in to reinforce it.
I tried my notched shock tower and it just wasn't notched deep enough. The steering shaft basically runs right through the middle of the center spine of the tower.
A band saw would have been nice. All I have is cutoff wheels and my air saw with a full length hacksaw blade.
The notch is angled on two planes so it took me a while to get it done right. It's an expensive part and I sure didn't want to ruin it. I need to get a piece of 2" x .250 wall square tube to weld in to reinforce it.
- Thread starter
- #270
I didn't get much time on it today. I did go buy a 12" piece of 2"square tube x .250" wall. I got it cut and tacked in for a test fit.
I had to enlarge the slot on the right side in pic to slightly correct the angle. So I have a 1/4" gap to contend with. No big deal though.
I think it will be plenty strong once the tube is welded in.
Hopefully I'm DONE dealing with this shock tower and I can move forward.
I had to enlarge the slot on the right side in pic to slightly correct the angle. So I have a 1/4" gap to contend with. No big deal though.
I think it will be plenty strong once the tube is welded in.
Hopefully I'm DONE dealing with this shock tower and I can move forward.
Looks great, nice fab work!
- Thread starter
- #272
Thanks Rusted I appreciate it.
I double checked everything by cycling the suspension and steering it. I'm satisfied with the position of everything so I started welding it up. Well everything easily accessible from up top.
I picked weight off the engine mounts and set it back down to ensure they weren't twisted with all the adjustments I made. I welded them also.
I won't finish welding until I get the body mods done and remove it from the frame. I'm going to make it easy on myself and flip the frame around for easy access.
So today I trimmed back the front mounts a bit further. I'm going to weld a cover plate over them for more strength. There's too much seam sealer in there so I'll have a few areas to weld once it's clean. I have someone that is willing to media blast for me.
I started on the trans tunnel today too. Body (cab) mods are priority right now. Including trimming the battery tray areas, which requires mocking up the air box first.
So that's my plan. I'll post pics once I make more progress.
I double checked everything by cycling the suspension and steering it. I'm satisfied with the position of everything so I started welding it up. Well everything easily accessible from up top.
I picked weight off the engine mounts and set it back down to ensure they weren't twisted with all the adjustments I made. I welded them also.
I won't finish welding until I get the body mods done and remove it from the frame. I'm going to make it easy on myself and flip the frame around for easy access.
So today I trimmed back the front mounts a bit further. I'm going to weld a cover plate over them for more strength. There's too much seam sealer in there so I'll have a few areas to weld once it's clean. I have someone that is willing to media blast for me.
I started on the trans tunnel today too. Body (cab) mods are priority right now. Including trimming the battery tray areas, which requires mocking up the air box first.
So that's my plan. I'll post pics once I make more progress.
- Thread starter
- #273
So my next challenge is to modify the trans tunnel for the triple shifters. This is definitely more work than it was for my 88. In that truck I lowered the engine and that definitely helped.
Since the engine is higher in this truck things are a lot tighter. I'm going to have to modify the triple shifter linkage to get it tighter to the cases. I might have to lower the trans mount location as well.
I had mentioned earlier that my shifters were getting sloppy so I'll tighten them up while I'm modifying them.
I need to take the angle out of the links and get rid of the bolts and lock nuts. I'm going to use hardened clevis pins and fabricate new links to weld on.
You can see in the pics that the linkage actually extends out too far and almost touches the side of the seat.
Since the engine is higher in this truck things are a lot tighter. I'm going to have to modify the triple shifter linkage to get it tighter to the cases. I might have to lower the trans mount location as well.
I had mentioned earlier that my shifters were getting sloppy so I'll tighten them up while I'm modifying them.
I need to take the angle out of the links and get rid of the bolts and lock nuts. I'm going to use hardened clevis pins and fabricate new links to weld on.
You can see in the pics that the linkage actually extends out too far and almost touches the side of the seat.
Want to link my 88 Pickup. Thanks you for this thread, details, pictures! Want to build my own brackets and run 35s at 21-22" frame height.
- Thread starter
- #275
You'll need to get your engine and transmission up high and do something about the front section of your frame. That's what's stopping me from going any lower.
Post up your build and good luck!
Post up your build and good luck!
Are you running 2" or 2.5" coil overs? Did you finalize up and down travel numbers?
- Thread starter
- #277
Running Brian's kit for a mini truck with OEM axle. 2" coilovers.
I'm looking at 24"-26" ride height. That gives me 4"to 5" up travel. I can't get any more up travel without even more mods than I've done.
I'm looking at 24"-26" ride height. That gives me 4"to 5" up travel. I can't get any more up travel without even more mods than I've done.
Whos triple sticks are those?
I had the first ever RAdesigns produced triple stick on one of my 4runners, it was really nice and the linkage was taller but not as wide as yours. I made a whole new trans tunnel for that truck, as I also did a flat belly at the same time. really nice setup.
Truck looks awesome, coming along nicely
I had the first ever RAdesigns produced triple stick on one of my 4runners, it was really nice and the linkage was taller but not as wide as yours. I made a whole new trans tunnel for that truck, as I also did a flat belly at the same time. really nice setup.
Truck looks awesome, coming along nicely
- Thread starter
- #279
EngEngr, this is a first for me but I can tell you what I found in my application.
The lower links will hit the bottom of the frame to limit up travel.
The panhard bar and drag link will hit the bottom of the frame to limit the up travel.
The upper link will hit your slave cylinder to limit the up travel.
The shock tower will hit your brake master cylinder.
Then the oil pan.
They can all be handled however you want.
The drive shaft has its limits too.
The lower links will hit the bottom of the frame to limit up travel.
The panhard bar and drag link will hit the bottom of the frame to limit the up travel.
The upper link will hit your slave cylinder to limit the up travel.
The shock tower will hit your brake master cylinder.
Then the oil pan.
They can all be handled however you want.
The drive shaft has its limits too.
- Thread starter
- #280
The triple shifters are Davez Off Road. I "think" the Rad designs were just hitting the market or being developed when I got this one?? I don't remember for sure.
