Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (3 Viewers)

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So after a lot of playing around with the height of the T-case and the body spacers I think I'm good. The angle on the engine is 4 degrees. Hopefully that's acceptable.

I ran a straight edge across the shifter area and it barely clears. 1/8". I can drop the back a hair more.

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I started making a cardboard pattern for the cover and patches. I'm going to have the very front at the trans shifter welded in solid. I can get the shifter out through the hole.

I want to make the section over the triple shifters removable.

I also double checked my slave cylinder clearance. Looks the same. It's close.

I ran out of wire and gas plus I think I have covid. Feeling pretty bad. Might be a few days before I get back on it.

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I don't want to be a wet blanket, but I'd work out a way to put the frame in as much of a twist as you can, in both directions, and test the steering each way. Looks like it wouldn't take much frame twist to make steering not an option.
 
When the frame twists it could easily use up all of the clearance that the steering shaft has to the tunnel in the damper mount. Binding up the steering shaft would be a bad thing. I'm reasonably impressed with the stiffness of these frames, but I'd still test it before you take thru some big rocks. Simulate having an RTI ramp in your garage, and try both sides.
 
Thanks for making me aware of that possibility.

I'm hoping I can figure out a way to tie the two shock towers with a brace.

I plan on caging the cab.

The front sections of the frame are plated with 3/16" steel and the front crossmember is heavier and braced in the corners.

I will still be aware of steering shaft clearance. Not sure what else to do short of using shock hoops.
 
I also though that the Clarence around the steering shaft looked to tight.
The way you did it sure looks beefy.

Hope you feel better soon.
I haven’t be feeling well myself.
 
Maybe it’s the picture or is it closer to the top and not centered ?
 
It WAS centered until I put 1/2" spacers for the body mounts.

It's actually centered on the steering box side of the tube. Slightly high on the firewall side.

Hey, I appreciate the input. Nobody is hurting my feelings or insulting me.

I can trim the tube on that side or take the body spacers out.

If I REALLY had to, I could cut the tube out for something larger. I'd have to verify I even have a problem before I go to that extent.

I am aware of the possibility of a problem there so I'll keep it in mind.
 
That what I was thinking trimming the top side a bit 😉
 
Prior to the spacers it looked like the shaft had ample clearance. It was only after them that it looked like it could be a problem. Could be a challenge to increase the clearance, so here's hoping that it isn't a problem.

A modified approach to Roger Brown's "RTI Test" might work for putting a twist in the frame. Cheap Suspension Test Ramp - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Ramp.shtml
 
Looking good, bud.
You see a lot of build threads leave out all the tedious details that ultimately make or break a build.
Keep plugging brother.
 
Thanks for the kind words and feedback all.

I'm feeling really bad but I'm one of those guys that can't sit still. I pulled the 1/2" spacers and just kinda looked everything over. The steering shaft is centered again. I had to lower the T-case a little. The engine is now at 5 degrees.

I did see a way to get a little more clearance at the slave cylinder. When I pull the axle to weld it, I'm going to shift the upper link bracket just a little. Definitely doable.

I used the stock air box from the 99 4Runner in my 88 when I did the 3.4 swap. It's not going to work on this build unfortunately. I need to trim for clearance for the 37's right where it sits. Not a problem if I keep my 35's. Yeah sure.🙄

Here's the air box and where I'm going to trim. I'm going to "try" to just fabricate a new fender well. I made a cardboard template and a friend has an English wheel. I think I can do it. We'll see.🙏 I'm not cutting anything out until I see if I can though. That's about all I could handle today. Hopefully I get over whatever I have soon.

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40s and 42s are the norm these days.
Wouldn’t think of anything less then 37s😜

I think the smallest tries in our wheeling group are 38s

The guy with the 4 wheel underground suspension like yours on his 4Runner is running 40s

Just sayin
 
What are you talking about, we were planing on coming out to AZ. to have you show us around !! Of course you can wheel with us.

None of us have bigger then stock axles, The guy with 4WU is running after market housings with stock 8" thirds spoiled he's the only one with 40s none of us has 42s

Shane's reg is in the middle it hardly looks like a 4runner any more, and if you ask me it's to tall and he bought it built so not the same. don't tell him I said that ;)

Also I forgot Noah's 80 on the right is running my old 37s

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Both Piks are last year at Johnson Valley
 
Consider dumping that clunky stock airbox for something custom. I honestly don't know why anyone keeps those for anything other than required visual emissions.....
I know this probably won't fit in your application but you get the idea.

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I really don't like exposed air filters like that. I've had to run them on occasion (starting with the avatar) and I've developed an aversion to them. They are a dirty, filthy mess most of the time, and it is hard to duct them so that they're not breathing hot air out of the radiator, off the exhaust, or both.

On my turbo-diesel VW Caddy I could see ambient air temperature's direct influence on the EGT due to the air filter being an open K&N and it's location. Part-throttle just rolling down the freeway on a 60° day the EGT would be 850°F. Same conditions, but a 100°F day the EGT would be 890°F-900°F. This was a consistent thing, not a one-off observation. A diesel won't care about detonation, but this observation did make me wonder about what the hot air effect might have on a gasser's detonation resistence.

I seriously doubt that there is room in this rig for one, but my favorite air filter assembly is from an FJ-62 or an FJ-80, with the FZJ-80's being the best of that bunch.
 
I really don't like exposed air filters like that. I've had to run them on occasion (starting with the avatar) and I've developed an aversion to them. They are a dirty, filthy mess most of the time, and it is hard to duct them so that they're not breathing hot air out of the radiator, off the exhaust, or both.

On my turbo-diesel VW Caddy I could see ambient air temperature's direct influence on the EGT due to the air filter being an open K&N and it's location. Part-throttle just rolling down the freeway on a 60° day the EGT would be 850°F. Same conditions, but a 100°F day the EGT would be 890°F-900°F. This was a consistent thing, not a one-off observation. A diesel won't care about detonation, but this observation did make me wonder about what the hot air effect might have on a gasser's detonation resistence.

I seriously doubt that there is room in this rig for one, but my favorite air filter assembly is from an FJ-62 or an FJ-80, with the FZJ-80's being the best of that bunch.
I agree, stock filters do a much better job of filtering air too. Any vehicle I have ever owned that had a K&N or knock off version of it, thats the first thing I got rid of. When I worked in a machine shop years ago you could tell which motors were cared for, which ones weren't and which ones had K&N style filters on them. I saw a lot of off road race motors with mud in the intake.
 
I don't run k&n, and my filter is also bagged.
Fact is ive seen plenty of oe filtered Toyotas with fithy mafs.
 

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