Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (3 Viewers)

[peacesells63]

The triple shifters are Davez Off Road. I "think" the Rad designs were just hitting the market or being developed when I got this one?? I don't remember for sure.

nice, I forgot about them.

I got the RAdesigns in 2010 I believe. i'm pretty sure the picture on his website is of my transfer case lol

you're a bad influence, now i'm going to look at a 4runner tomorrow....

 

[aztoyman]

I'm a bad influence on a lot of people .

You got to be the guinea pig for the triple shifters? Must be nice to have friends like that.

Grandkids are here now but,I got to fix the left side shifter today. The pivot bolt has a shoulder to ride on for the mounting ear and a small hole for the lever. It was hard to adjust just right and always got loose.

So I bored the hole on the lever and made a flanged bushing. I machined it so I can just tighten it all the way. It is much better. No slop.

I made a straight lever for the other piece so it tucks in closer and welded it on. Once I hit tractor supply for some pins to replace the bulky nuts and bolts I'll be good to go.

 

[Broski]

Not sure why I stopped getting notifications, I have been following your build form the start. now I'm way back on page 9 playing catch up.

Such a great build, seem a shame that your only building for 35s ?

 

[aztoyman]

I'm building for 37's. I just happen to have a new set of 35" KM3's on my 88.

Whatever I sell from the 88 gets put into this build.

I don't want to make a payment so it's cash only. I might even sell my boat.

 

[Broski]

I hope everyone had a good Christmas. I had kids and grandkids over so that was my priority. Today I just got out and tinkered a bit. Put tires on and cycled everything and just kinda looked things over. I did start making cardboard templates for the motor mounts. Maybe I'll get going on the mounts tomorrow.

I think I mentioned in the beginning that I would post up details of my 3 link install to hopefully help others that decide to link their truck. There just isn't much out there on the forums to fall back on. The instructions mention notching the passenger frame rail for more up travel which will allow a lower ride height. Brian also said he's trimmed the bottom hump off the lower frame rail so the lower links have more up travel as well. Other's mentioned having to cut the oil pan and modify it for more clearance or bend the upper link to clear the slave cylinder. So here's a couple things I found on my particular build. At least for a 2nd Gen pickup/1st Gen 4Runner using the OEM straight axle.

All these things DO work to gain up travel and a lower ride height. However, at least on my truck the brake booster and master cylinder end up being the limiting factor. I had to trim some height off the shock tower to fit under the master cylinder. So now the shock hits it's own bumps just about the same time the air bumps are starting to bottom. If the bumpers weren't on the shock shafts, the shock travel would stop about where the bumps bottom.

So I'm about as good as I can get. Cutting my oil pan and/or raising my engine and trimming the bottom of the frame WILL provide more clearance for the lower suspension components BUT........I can't take advantage of that room because as soon as I put my shocks on, the up travel is limited by the shocks. And that's because of the shock tower position on MY truck. I don't think I can get a wheel offset that would give me enough room to get the towers leaning out far enough to clear the M/C and booster. I'd like a lower ride height but, there's too much work for too little gained. An inch or so more? I've done as much as I'm willing to do with the parts I have and the look I'm trying to achieve. It's going to be a HUGE improvement over my leaf springs.

I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere but, maybe a wider axle is the answer for a lower ride height??? A wider axle should allow the upper shock mounting position to be tilted out away from the master cylinder and booster. Tilting it out should allow a higher mount position for the shock. More shock up travel lets you take advantage of all the trimming you did. I would think the wider axle would keep the tires off the springs. Notice that I said "should" I can't verify this without trying it out myself. Just something to consider if any of you are thinking about this kit. 1st Gen Tacoma width maybe?

Also with the OEM axle my tires hit the lower links at full turn. I have 1.5" wheel spacers to match the IFS width rear axle and 15" x 8" width steel wheels with 4" back spacing. (35/12.50-15 BFG KM3 tires)

My next set of wheels will be 3.5" backspacing.

Yep I think a 80 series axle would have helped a lot, and stronger to.
Again late to the party

 

[Broski]

Great work.
Thanks for posting.
It's going to be RAD!!

 

[aztoyman]

What sucks right now is my HOA noticed my 88 in the driveway missing parts and they told me to put it in the garage. Actually they saw a jack stand under the front axle. They can't see the missing engine.

I don't have an extra set of steering arms and I don't want to spend the money putting high steer on a truck I'm going to get rid of.

My only option right now is taking the steering off the 86 and sticking it on the 88 just so I can move it to the side of my house behind the gate. Not that big a deal since the axle has to come out for welding anyway. Still...............pisses me off. It looks like a complete truck and it has current tags. Gotta play the game.

Thanks Broski!

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW: The LA frames have a higher arch over the axle than do the IFS frames.
From a very cursory look I suspect that the 2WD IFS frames are arched similarly to the 4WD LA frames.

My old '84 being mocked up for an IFS steering box:

The rectangular tube welded to the bottom of the frame rail above the bump-stop was the PO's attempt at limiting the up travel for reasons unknown.

 

[aztoyman]

Ntsqd, it would have been nice to have my frame like that.

I've had a lot of appointments lately, covid is hitting the family.... again. Life happens. I still try to accomplish something on my truck.

I couldn't find any clevis pins in the size I need anywhere local. I struck out on everything I was looking for today actually so I just made some.

I ground off the weld and removed the other angled shifter link and made a straight one. I just cut a long shank grade 8 bolt to make the new pins and TIG'd it in. I straightened out the lever link a little just like I did the other lever.

Because the 4wd indicator switch is in the way it is going to be tougher to tuck the rod in close enough. I might have to remove it?? I can always put a whisker switch on. I'll see tomorrow if I get a chance to work on it.

Not a lot done today but here's a couple pics.

 

[aztoyman]

I have way too much time in this triple shifter. I've been using it for years and it works. I just didn't like the loose fit of the bolts and bolt holes. I had to use red loctite or they'd get loose and they vibrated and buzzed going down the highway. I'm being picky I guess.

Since I need to get it tucked in to clear my transmission tunnel now was the time to address my complaints.

It's much better now and definitely clears the sheet metal. The welded in pins took up slack and are much easier to R&I.

 

[aztoyman]

The main bracket mounting tabs were only welded on one side and were easy to bend so I hit the other side with the TIG and fused the joint in

 

[aztoyman]

Because of the switch directly in line with the passenger side linkage I had to clock the lever a little different and machine the Heim joint down to clear it.

The link was now too short so I welded a long bolt shank in to extend it. I turned the shank down a bit for clearance as well.

It barely clears the switch. Mission accomplished. Glad to be moving past this. Looks good and feels better.

I only have one hitch pin right now but I'm going to use cotter pins instead. I think they'd be less likely to fall out.

 

[Broski]

Nice attention to details.

Looks good.

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks Broski. Now I have to finish the trans tunnel. I'm not a sheet metal or body guy so not sure how it's going to go.

 

[gnob]

Looking good. I definitely know what it's like to lose a bunch of time on projects like these.

 

[Broski]

Sheet metal work is definitely a art, but from what I see you have the skill set for it.

 

[aztoyman]

This trans tunnel is turning out to be a time sucker too. There's a dogleg in the floor right next to my linkage on the passenger side.

I made some cuts, bent and hammered it back enough to clear the linkage and not interfere with the seat. Welded it up.

 

[aztoyman]

When I put the transmission in, I used the TG skid plate mount so I know it was in the correct position.

When I raised the engine I had no idea that the rear case would hit the floor enough to pop some spot welds. I figured it would kind of pivot up from the rear but I was wrong. You can see how my cutoff wheel hit the case when I cut the floor.

I pushed up the floor and welded the seam after realigning the two panels.

 

[aztoyman]

So I lowered the rear of the cases an inch. The pic shows 1 1/2" but that's for another reason I'll get to. You can see all my tack welds back there.

 

[aztoyman]

I needed to lower it more but I didn't want to put the engine and transmission at a steep angle so I made some BODY SPACERS gnob. Yes, I'm going with a body lift.

I started out at 1" with some pieces of Delrin I had. WAY too much. Trimmed it to 3/4" and still too much. The steering shaft was the problem. Trimmed them down to 1/2" and it gave me the little extra bit above the T- case AND..... my hood closes. No cutting or scoop.

The steering shaft has enough room.