- Thread starter
- #241
Gnob, why ya gotta mess with my head like that? I'm thinking WAY too hard as it is.
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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Here's the thing. The engine doesn't really hit the hood in a spot that is scoop appropriate, imo.
One of the main killers of the 3.0 is engine bay heat. Im running a 1.5bl. That keeps my sliders flat with the frame without hitting the body. It also opens up the engine compartment for air flow.
Im also running a custom exhaust crossover thats under the bell vs in the engine compartment.
Im running roger browns bl kit
It looks like you would clear with a 1" maybe less
One of the main killers of the 3.0 is engine bay heat. Im running a 1.5bl. That keeps my sliders flat with the frame without hitting the body. It also opens up the engine compartment for air flow.
Im also running a custom exhaust crossover thats under the bell vs in the engine compartment.
Im running roger browns bl kit
It looks like you would clear with a 1" maybe less
- Thread starter
- #243
Gnob, excellent point (s). I appreciate your input. It's good to have some other points of view. As much as I don't like body lifts I've still been thinking about spacers. The engine absolutely contacts the hood in a weird spot and I'd rather not have a scoop.
Here's my thoughts on this. Keeping in mind I don't want to be too tall and tippy. And it's hard for me and my wife to get in and out of it if it gets taller than my 88.
I cut the wheel wells out of my 88 and there is no heat under that hood you can feel when you open the hood. This truck is even more open so under hood heat isn't an issue. I have a ton of accessibility for repairs and maintenance through the wheel wells.
A body lift will definitely eliminate the hole in the hood option. It will give me some more room around my shifters too. So I haven't ruled out making some spacers yet. I have some Delrin and aluminum I can use. I'd just have to gets some longer bolts.
I'm eyeballing the possibility of shifting the engine back a little. The hood gets taller toward the rear and the oil pan tapers away from the pan hard bar if moved to the rear. I have a little room still for the exhaust crossover. It would get my trans shifter out from under the radio a bit as well.
A combination of back and down might get me there and if not, shorter spacers may get it there. This build has been all about compromises so far. It's cold and rainy and my pain level is up so maybe I'll go stare at it for a while and take some measurements.
What do you think? I'm open to ideas from all of you.
Scott
Here's my thoughts on this. Keeping in mind I don't want to be too tall and tippy. And it's hard for me and my wife to get in and out of it if it gets taller than my 88.
I cut the wheel wells out of my 88 and there is no heat under that hood you can feel when you open the hood. This truck is even more open so under hood heat isn't an issue. I have a ton of accessibility for repairs and maintenance through the wheel wells.
A body lift will definitely eliminate the hole in the hood option. It will give me some more room around my shifters too. So I haven't ruled out making some spacers yet. I have some Delrin and aluminum I can use. I'd just have to gets some longer bolts.
I'm eyeballing the possibility of shifting the engine back a little. The hood gets taller toward the rear and the oil pan tapers away from the pan hard bar if moved to the rear. I have a little room still for the exhaust crossover. It would get my trans shifter out from under the radio a bit as well.
A combination of back and down might get me there and if not, shorter spacers may get it there. This build has been all about compromises so far. It's cold and rainy and my pain level is up so maybe I'll go stare at it for a while and take some measurements.
What do you think? I'm open to ideas from all of you.
Scott
- Thread starter
- #244
After taking a better look at things today I decided my engine location is as good as it gets. So it's hood scoop or body lift.
I cut out a top plate for the passenger frame rail above the notch. I needed to get it fitted because the motor mount pedestal sits on top of it. I'm going to try to get it welded in tomorrow.
I have some steering shaft tubing on the way. Once the engine pedestals are tacked in good, I'll pull the engine so I have better access to the backside of the driver side shock tower. It's looking like notching it for the steering shaft is in order. Adding body lift spacers are going to change the angle and location of the steering shaft so I'm going to choose the hood scoop option.
I cut out a top plate for the passenger frame rail above the notch. I needed to get it fitted because the motor mount pedestal sits on top of it. I'm going to try to get it welded in tomorrow.
I have some steering shaft tubing on the way. Once the engine pedestals are tacked in good, I'll pull the engine so I have better access to the backside of the driver side shock tower. It's looking like notching it for the steering shaft is in order. Adding body lift spacers are going to change the angle and location of the steering shaft so I'm going to choose the hood scoop option.
- Thread starter
- #245
Well I try to accomplish SOMETHING on this build every day. The wind and rain is causing me problems. Blowing away my shielding gas and blowing rain in on me. I'm right up on the garage door so....
Anyway, I got started on the upper frame plate.
Anyway, I got started on the upper frame plate.
Looking good!
I didn’t have most of your fitment issues since the kits I have done were on a wider front axle. My 4runner was a Tacoma width and the Tacoma was a 62.5” was to wms. Could have used an extra inch on either side there too.
Tube shock towers are easier to fit as well. I regret not doing tube on my 100 series, as I had to do a ton of fitment just like you did.
I didn’t have most of your fitment issues since the kits I have done were on a wider front axle. My 4runner was a Tacoma width and the Tacoma was a 62.5” was to wms. Could have used an extra inch on either side there too.
Tube shock towers are easier to fit as well. I regret not doing tube on my 100 series, as I had to do a ton of fitment just like you did.
- Thread starter
- #247
Thanks for confirming that my axle width theory is correct. I couldn't understand why things weren't working for me when I did things like the pics showed in the instructions. The instructions are definitely a "general" guideline and this install definitely requires fabrication skills and experience.
After all my shock tower challenges I have to agree that hoops would be easier. I'm not sure if they would be as strong in my application though?? I don't have the room over the engine to tie both sides together. Unless I let it stick through the hood. These Cobra Towers are stout and have a lot of contact area to the frame rails. Tough call for which I would choose if I were to do this again.
Thanks for chiming in. I appreciate you sharing your installation experience. What did you do about the steering shaft?
Scott
After all my shock tower challenges I have to agree that hoops would be easier. I'm not sure if they would be as strong in my application though?? I don't have the room over the engine to tie both sides together. Unless I let it stick through the hood. These Cobra Towers are stout and have a lot of contact area to the frame rails. Tough call for which I would choose if I were to do this again.
Thanks for chiming in. I appreciate you sharing your installation experience. What did you do about the steering shaft?
Scott
Yeah, the instructions give you an idea of how it goes together, but as soon as you look start mocking up 90% of it is different.. lol
Tube towers are plenty strong, but you have to run a crossover between the towers. I usually tie them into the front bumper as well.
The biggest benefit was that the tower mounts off of the outside of the frame, so I was able to run the stock steering shaft. On my 100 I notched the shock tower for clearance.
Tube towers are plenty strong, but you have to run a crossover between the towers. I usually tie them into the front bumper as well.
The biggest benefit was that the tower mounts off of the outside of the frame, so I was able to run the stock steering shaft. On my 100 I notched the shock tower for clearance.
- Thread starter
- #249
Good info for this thread. Thanks 
- Thread starter
- #250
gnob, I'm still going back and forth over cutting the hood or body lift. Geeze I can be indecisive. 
I don't like either choice. Maybe I should just slam the hood and run with it. 
I don't think raising the body an inch (probably less) will change the angle of the steering shaft too much? I can notch to accommodate either choice maybe and box in after? I'll know more once I pull the engine to work on this.
Since the hood is SO far down on the priority list I'm going to wait as long as possible. Mocking up some 37's would settle it. I just don't have anybody I know to borrow one from. Just Jeep guys.
Anybody in Tucson have a mounted 37 they can loan me for mockup?
I don't like either choice. Maybe I should just slam the hood and run with it. I don't think raising the body an inch (probably less) will change the angle of the steering shaft too much? I can notch to accommodate either choice maybe and box in after? I'll know more once I pull the engine to work on this.
Since the hood is SO far down on the priority list I'm going to wait as long as possible. Mocking up some 37's would settle it. I just don't have anybody I know to borrow one from. Just Jeep guys.
Anybody in Tucson have a mounted 37 they can loan me for mockup?
- Thread starter
- #252
We've been having overnight hard freezes and cold equals pain so a little tougher for me out in the garage.
I began the finish welding on some of the brackets. Like I mentioned before, I have to cut tack welds and remove the shock towers and the bump cans so I have access.
I welded most of the panhard bracket. I still need to get underneath in some places.
When there's only 1/4" clearance in places I had to recheck position by cycling the suspension before I welded the bump cans and towers back on. Even though I marked them before removing. I only tacked the driver side tower on since I still have to notch it for the steering shaft. I did get it marked and did the initial cut. I installed my 88 steering shaft while the tower was off so I could mark it.
I began the finish welding on some of the brackets. Like I mentioned before, I have to cut tack welds and remove the shock towers and the bump cans so I have access.
I welded most of the panhard bracket. I still need to get underneath in some places.
When there's only 1/4" clearance in places I had to recheck position by cycling the suspension before I welded the bump cans and towers back on. Even though I marked them before removing. I only tacked the driver side tower on since I still have to notch it for the steering shaft. I did get it marked and did the initial cut. I installed my 88 steering shaft while the tower was off so I could mark it.
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- Thread starter
- #253
I did the same on the passenger side. The bump can and bracket are welded on. Before I weld the tower on I'm going to finish plating the frame. I plated the outside months ago as per instructions but now I'm also doing the inside and top since I cut that huge notch. I'll tie it into the shock tower as well once it's back on.
- Thread starter
- #254
Didn't get a lot of time to work on it today but I did get the top plate welded on at least.
- Thread starter
- #255
Life got in the way for a while. I managed to get on it this afternoon though.
I needed to fabricate a new steering shaft. I had the one from my 3.4 donor truck. A 99 4Runner.
I cut off what I needed and chucked it up in the lathe. I turned it down to be a tight fit inside the 3/4" DOM steering shaft tubing I bought. It will be welded as well.
It probably doesn't need to be as long as it is. I just left the length as is. (The piece that goes inside the tube)
I needed to fabricate a new steering shaft. I had the one from my 3.4 donor truck. A 99 4Runner.
I cut off what I needed and chucked it up in the lathe. I turned it down to be a tight fit inside the 3/4" DOM steering shaft tubing I bought. It will be welded as well.
It probably doesn't need to be as long as it is. I just left the length as is. (The piece that goes inside the tube)
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- Thread starter
- #256
Originally I was going to weld the tube to the U-joint yoke at the steering box. That would have required removing the box or the column to remove or install it.
So I removed the rag joint and just bolted the flanges directly together. Now I can easily remove it if needed. Like replacing a leaky steering box shaft seal.
I had to make sure the U-joints were in phase before I weld it up. I TIG'd the root pass. I still need to finish weld it.
There is no collapsible section like this. I could have extended the stock shaft but, I wanted the smaller diameter for shock tower clearance.
Here's a comparison between the old and new.
So I removed the rag joint and just bolted the flanges directly together. Now I can easily remove it if needed. Like replacing a leaky steering box shaft seal.
I had to make sure the U-joints were in phase before I weld it up. I TIG'd the root pass. I still need to finish weld it.
There is no collapsible section like this. I could have extended the stock shaft but, I wanted the smaller diameter for shock tower clearance.
Here's a comparison between the old and new.
- Thread starter
- #257
I had to cut the tacks and remove the shock tower so I could install the steering shaft. Then I positioned the tower on marks I made, pushed it against the shaft and marked where to notch the back of the tower.
I cut the notch in the center spine of the tower down to the flat of the outer shell. Roughly halfway through the spine.
It barely clears. The shaft and the frame are angled so I'm going to have to slightly rotate the tower. I can't tilt it out or the tires will hit the springs.
I'm thinking of reinforcing the notch with square or round tube. The shaft can run through it.
They are stout pieces but It took a LOT of mods for that tower to fit MY truck. No regrets though, quality parts.
I cut the notch in the center spine of the tower down to the flat of the outer shell. Roughly halfway through the spine.
It barely clears. The shaft and the frame are angled so I'm going to have to slightly rotate the tower. I can't tilt it out or the tires will hit the springs.
I'm thinking of reinforcing the notch with square or round tube. The shaft can run through it.
They are stout pieces but It took a LOT of mods for that tower to fit MY truck. No regrets though, quality parts.
- Thread starter
- #258
I found a guy that let me borrow a 37" tire and wheel for one day. It at least answered some questions I had.
The 3 1/2" backspacing is good to go.
My guestimate for lower link length is right on.
This is max articulation.
The 3 1/2" backspacing is good to go.
My guestimate for lower link length is right on.
This is max articulation.
- Thread starter
- #259
Here's where I have some more work to do.
At full right turn it hits the battery tray. So I thought gnob was right. Just go with a body lift.
I put in 1" spacers and the hood closes..... barely. Tire still hits.
So I put in wood blocks 1 1/2" thick and tire still hits.
If 1" spacers would have fixed it I would have went with it. Being that it doesn't, I'm not going to do the body lift. It puts more angle on the steering shaft and I just don't want my truck higher. I like the fit in the wheel wells. Well, other than hitting the battery tray.
So looks like I have more trimming to do. I'm going to go ahead and trim near the body mount a little more since it's really close. I'll either cut and modify or heat and hammer the battery tray corner.
At full right turn it hits the battery tray. So I thought gnob was right. Just go with a body lift.
I put in 1" spacers and the hood closes..... barely. Tire still hits.
So I put in wood blocks 1 1/2" thick and tire still hits.
If 1" spacers would have fixed it I would have went with it. Being that it doesn't, I'm not going to do the body lift. It puts more angle on the steering shaft and I just don't want my truck higher. I like the fit in the wheel wells. Well, other than hitting the battery tray.
So looks like I have more trimming to do. I'm going to go ahead and trim near the body mount a little more since it's really close. I'll either cut and modify or heat and hammer the battery tray corner.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
For the hood, just cut your hole and put a bulge in it rather than a scoop.
