Build 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap)

[ntsqd]

Exposed filters, bagged or not, still draw ambient air. If that air has been heated by the radiator or the exhaust manifold or both, then it's a lot hotter than if it were an enclosed filter that has been ducted to draw air from somewhere outside of the engine bay. At the minimum you can figure that the temperature of the air under the hood is close to the operating coolant temperature, and can easily be higher. There's no reason that a filter like that can't be fully enclosed and then ducted outside of the engine bay, but it is a lot of work to do that and make it work right. I've seen commercial products that claimed to do that, they were bogus claims. Easier to find an OEM filter assembly from an engine with equal or preferably greater displacement that has the connections where you need them to be or can easily be modified to be that way.

Were the MAFs dirt fouled or carbon fouled? I've seen more than my share of carbon fouled (presumably from EGR reversion but I know not), but can't recall ever seeing a dirt fouled MAF that wasn't the result of hose coming loose.

I never did cure the dirt fouling on the avatar's carb'd engine. I retired the vehicle knowing that I needed a whole different air filter assembly and at the time had big bias against OEM air filters. Experience and observation since then has taught me otherwise.

 

[peacesells63]

I don't run k&n, and my filter is also bagged.
Fact is ive seen plenty of oe filtered Toyotas with fithy mafs.

K&N style, as in the kind that do nothing without oil and you can see right through. Like whats in the above picture.

They work much better with a pre filter, especially a foam one with foam filter oil on it. Then you have to clean the pre filter every dusty trip, that oil attracts every particle smaller than gravel.

I have seen a lot of dirty mafs too, the stuff that gets past a stock filter is extremely fine compared to the stuff that gets pulled through a K&N style. The muddy intakes were carbed motors back in those days, class 1 cars were the worst with a rear mount engine. pre filters were not that common 20 years ago

 

[Broski]

I'm really happy with the stock filter on my 80 the design would really be hard to beat !

 

[gnob]

Im not trying to advocate really either way and muddy his thread.
Im simply trying to add ideas.

 

[aztoyman]

I used the stock air box for emissions back when I did the swap. I live in an area that is exempt from emissions testing but back then I had to test because I worked in town. I no longer have to.

I opened up the choke'd off inlet to the box to 3" and ran a tube to pull air from the cowl. Kind of a hidden snorkel.

I trust paper (or dry) filters more than the oiled type. Plus the oil gets on the MAF sensor.

I'll figure something out. Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe a huge pro stock hood scoop.

I gotta make 37's fit or Broski won't wheel with me.

 

[ntsqd]

[HIJACK]

I'm really happy with the stock filter on my 80 the design would really hard to beat !

Do you have the OEM washable filter element in it? That was a huge part of the appeal for me.
[/HIJACK]

MISF did the 'ducted to the cowl' option on his Scout and his '69 Gran Prix hot rod. Downside with both is that vent air is drawn from the cowl area. Made it rather noisy inside the Scout all of the time and in the GranPrix when somewhere above 100 mph.......

 

[Broski]

I just think you be happier with 37s as the norm for tires gets bigger so does the size of the holes at every obstacle
I will wheel with you regardless of tire size, I just may have more time to drink Beer as you make your way through the harder stuff

@ntsqd yes I run the OEM filter, and the OEM box is very well designed to keep dirt and water out of the system!

 

[aztoyman]

I know you're teasing me Broski. I'm looking forward to wheeling this truck. I'd like to do Rubicon and all the other great trails in California. Never been.

I've only wheeled with Jeeps. I'd like to get out with some badass Toyotas.

I just looked at my truck and I think I can put a filter almost directly off the throttle body and get air through the hood. Looks doable. I have time to figure it out.

 

[Broski]

I was being serious about coming out to AZ and wheeling with you, I have been wanting to head out there for a while !

When your ready you are more then welcome to use my place as a launchpad to hit any of the Sierra trails. I have a big back yard with plenty of room for Regs and camping you are always welcome

 

[ntsqd]

There are lots worse places in KA to base from than Morro Bay.

I feel a Brown Butter Cookie urge coming on!

 

[aztoyman]

I better get busy then. Unfortunately I don't have space like you do. The HOA would be all over me. We'll figure something out.

 

[peacesells63]

This is my favorite build thread on mud right now

 

[aztoyman]

Just a quick update. Life is hitting me hard right now. I haven't given up, just got delayed.

I picked up some sheet metal. I measured the metal I'm working on and it's 20 gauge. I picked up some 18 gauge as well for the trans tunnel/shifter area.

I mentioned that I'm not a body guy so not sure how well this will turn out. It's going to be slow for sure as I have to learn as I go. I ordered a shot bag and hammer ( arrives tomorrow) and a friend loaned me an English wheel. I'm definitely out of my comfort zone.

My goal this weekend is to get the 88 moved out of sight of the HOA. I pulled the knuckles out from the 86 axle and the steering and put it on the 88 so I can push it to it's new location. What a pain in the a$$.

 

[aztoyman]

Just another quick update. I don't want yous guys to think I gave up.

I did get the 88 moved. The knuckles and steering are still on it.

I managed to fabricate the shifter cover. I decided to weld it in because the floor easily flexed just pushing on it with that huge hole in the floor. It's 18 gauge and the floor is now solid. I can still get the shifters out through the openings if needed.

Welds are a lap joint and I started to hammer form the original shape of the floor. Not done yet. I also welded up a bunch of screw holes in the floor from the PO.

I'm kind of stalled out because of old injuries coming back to haunt me. Been in the hospital a couple times. My L-spine is the main culprit and causing my legs to give out. Pain is off the charts so I'm having a hard time. I'm not a quitter though.

I'm going to try to grind my welds and finish the floor up today. I'm really anxious to get going on this again. Brian@4wheelunderground said my order is almost ready for the rear 4 link.
Here's one picture at least. Gotta keep this thread alive.

Oh, I also have a MAF sensor tube and coupler for my intake. (Thanks gnob for the links) I didn't order a filter yet. I want to get the largest one I can fit once I figure out how much room I'll have.

 

[gnob]

Get better dude.

 

[Broski]

Get better dude.

^^^^^^^^ this

 

[Broski]

The shift tunnel looks really good

Nice work

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks guys.

 

[aztoyman]

Well I couldn't get to it until today. Another couple days at the hospital, some x-rays and an MRI today. Hopefully I get back to a somewhat normal condition soon. I'm going nuts not being able to work on this.

So I at least got to smooth out my welds. I still want to do a little more hammer work to match the original floor contour. I need to do a little more welding in a couple spots. I'm happy with it. I'm going to have Dynamat type stuff stuck on it and carpet so it doesn't have to be show quality.

 

[aztoyman]

This hump has been bothering me since I started fixing the floor. It's to make room for the torsion bar adjusters. Looks like a PO cranked it too far and put the adjusters through the floor.

I think I'm going to cut them out and weld in a flat piece. Yeah my OCD is definitely kicking in.