- Thread starter
- #121
Thanks, I will do some searching and see what I come up with. Never did read all of Chicago's SOA thread.
83 FJ60 Build up thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Project60
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Thanks, I will do some searching and see what I come up with. Never did read all of Chicago's SOA thread.
- Thread starter
- #122
Remove?
Question to those who have done it, or those who have an opinion. It looks like my tranny cross member is bolted to the frame. Should I pull this off for the frame painting portion, or will it make the frame too weak to carry around?
Question to those who have done it, or those who have an opinion. It looks like my tranny cross member is bolted to the frame. Should I pull this off for the frame painting portion, or will it make the frame too weak to carry around?
Nice work so far, I am in the prcess of doing the same with my '84 60, except that I am springing over and dropping in a 4bt. I was wondering what to do about all the bolts that have broken off as I have been taking this thing apart? should I just replace with bolts the same size or should I try to find sock bolts off of a junker? Obviously nothing that I need to worry about in the near future, but still something to think about.
I think the frame should be plenty strong enough to move around with the cross member removed, although it adds stiffness to the frame I think it is there primarily to support the tranny/tcase.
I think the frame should be plenty strong enough to move around with the cross member removed, although it adds stiffness to the frame I think it is there primarily to support the tranny/tcase.
If the stock bolts broke once they will break again. Buy better/stronger bolts for replacements.
X2 on the strength of the frame without the cross member.
X2 on the strength of the frame without the cross member.
Well you have inspired me to go out and get some work done on mine today, thanks. I was looking over my parts cruiser (the one I am taking the frame from) and I can't seem to locate the access hole for the furthest reward cab mounting bolt. It looks as though it should be just inside the tail gate but I can't fine it, I will post pic's of the "area" when I remeber to take my camera with me, please let me kow if you know about the one I am talking about.
Man you have that thing TORN DOWN!
x2 on the Springs - You should probably take the whole pack apart, and get some grease in there between the leaves, repaint it once you have it all cleaned up and put back together.
Good to see more parts coming off of Justins Rig. He sold me my "New" Grill and Light Doors.
x2 on the Springs - You should probably take the whole pack apart, and get some grease in there between the leaves, repaint it once you have it all cleaned up and put back together.
Good to see more parts coming off of Justins Rig. He sold me my "New" Grill and Light Doors.
- Thread starter
- #127
Access hole?
Not sure which access hole you are talking about. If you are talking about the bolts from the body to the frame, I did not have to "hold" them from the top get the double nuts off. I haven't done anything on the inside except for the shifter plate.
Not sure which access hole you are talking about. If you are talking about the bolts from the body to the frame, I did not have to "hold" them from the top get the double nuts off. I haven't done anything on the inside except for the shifter plate.
- Thread starter
- #128
Disassembly work
1.5 hours on the 60 today. I took off the transmission cross member, wasn't much to it until I got to the last bolt
. The impact wrench stripped the head it was so tight. I ended up drilling the head off after I broke 2 screw removers. I had to weld 3 different nuts on to the remaining bolt as it kept shearing the weld.
I took off the spring pin and shackle bolts as well. As with most of you, none of them want to budge. I don't have a torch, so I am thinking of cutting the pins as I will have to buy greasable for all anyway.
1.5 hours on the 60 today. I took off the transmission cross member, wasn't much to it until I got to the last bolt
. The impact wrench stripped the head it was so tight. I ended up drilling the head off after I broke 2 screw removers. I had to weld 3 different nuts on to the remaining bolt as it kept shearing the weld.I took off the spring pin and shackle bolts as well. As with most of you, none of them want to budge. I don't have a torch, so I am thinking of cutting the pins as I will have to buy greasable for all anyway.
That might be the ticket. Although it might be pretty hard to get a sawzall through those Bolts. If you get a small Propane (plumbing) torch, that could help burn out the old bushings, It stinks real bad though.
You could just cut the spring wrap with a grinder, since your putting on the new lifted springs.
- Thread starter
- #130
That's a good idea, will go that route.
Only problem is that I will be losing the resale vaue of the 230k mile springs
.
I wish I didn't have to hold mine from the top. I was able to remove the jam nuts (one of the two nuts on the body mount bolts) without any issue but when I try the other one(s) the bolt just spins. I am thinking of just cutting with the sawzall but I may get a helper to hold a wrench on the bolt head while I crank on the nuts from below.... this still leaves me with the problem of those rear bolts, like I said I can't figure out where I am supposed to access those
, guess I'll burn that bridge when I can't get any further.
- Thread starter
- #132
I wish I didn't have to hold mine from the top. I was able to remove the jam nuts (one of the two nuts on the body mount bolts) without any issue but when I try the other one(s) the bolt just spins. I am thinking of just cutting with the sawzall but I may get a helper to hold a wrench on the bolt head while I crank on the nuts from below.... this still leaves me with the problem of those rear bolts, like I said I can't figure out where I am supposed to access those
Looking back at my pictures on page 4 of this thread, the bolts at the back should be right under the tailgate... might have to pull the tailgate to get to them?
Got some time in today and I found the access panel for the furthest rear cab mounting bolts. If you get under the truck and look from the front at the bolt and then look above it you may (or may not see depending on how much rust/dirt there is packed up under there) see two philips head srews holding a cover plate on. I have not gotten mine off yet because I wanted to soak it in PB blaster before I strip the heads off. I may just drill the heads and then replace with socket head cap srews, we'll see how it goes. Anywhoo heres what it looks like. Can you say RUSTY!
Wow that helps a lot Bahndo I couldnt figure out where those were. I got mine the majority of the way off, then as i lifted the body i just unscrewed them. Also instead of unbolting all the rusty bolts I just cut them off with an oxy/mapp torch. I think that saved me a lot of time.
- Thread starter
- #135
- Thread starter
- #136
Front Axle Removed!
2 hours on the 60 over the last few days. I finally got the front axle removed. I ended up burning the bushings and using a 2 jaw puller. I bought an 8lb sledge hammer, but the wife says its a little too loud to use while the kids sleep. 2 jaw puller worked, but I had to use a bolt for an extension to get the spring pins out.
Pics to come.
2 hours on the 60 over the last few days. I finally got the front axle removed. I ended up burning the bushings and using a 2 jaw puller. I bought an 8lb sledge hammer, but the wife says its a little too loud to use while the kids sleep. 2 jaw puller worked, but I had to use a bolt for an extension to get the spring pins out.
Pics to come.
- Thread starter
- #137
Pictures
Here is the 2 jaw puller used:
Here is the bolt I used. I drilled the start of a 1/2" hole on top to keep the point on the puller from wandering all over.
Here is the 2 jaw puller used:
Here is the bolt I used. I drilled the start of a 1/2" hole on top to keep the point on the puller from wandering all over.
- Thread starter
- #138
Pictures
Here is the axle pulled out:
And of course, the frame with nothing left on the front:
Here is the axle pulled out:
And of course, the frame with nothing left on the front
:
It looks like I am going to pick up a puller tomorrow. After spending hours burning bushings and some serious beating I still dont have any bolts out. Thanks for the tip!
- Thread starter
- #140
When you removed the shackle bolts, just push on the threaded end with the puller. Keep running the puller into the bushing, even though it is larger than the ID of the bushing.
You have to use the bolt on the spring pins because the hole in the frame is too small.
Worked like a champ and was much quieter than the sledge!
