Is that the axles you got a while back with some other goodies
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- Thread starter
- #182
Indeed it/they is
The old one is yours IF you will USE IT @VA.CRUISER
I also have EVERYTHING you need to rebuild it... except them damn rotors
Indeed it/they is
The old one is yours IF you will USE IT @VA.CRUISER
I also have EVERYTHING you need to rebuild it... except them damn rotors
- Thread starter
- #185
@jamarquardt22 stopped by today to talk me through some of the trickier clearance issues I'm running into.
I knew this cage mount, in front of the body mount was going to be trouble, but hopefully with the axle pushed all the way forward it will clear the 35 and can be changed later.
I knew this cage mount, in front of the body mount was going to be trouble, but hopefully with the axle pushed all the way forward it will clear the 35 and can be changed later.
- Thread starter
- #186
More fender stuffing, tweeking, adjusting, drilling, grinding, tacking....
Finally burned in the passenger side spring pad and located the steering box with the front axle pushed as far forward as leaf springs will allow.
I'll add bump stops to prevent the driver side leaf from getting into the drag link at full stuff.
Finally burned in the passenger side spring pad and located the steering box with the front axle pushed as far forward as leaf springs will allow.
I'll add bump stops to prevent the driver side leaf from getting into the drag link at full stuff.
You need longer U-bolts!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #190
Heh, they don't hit anything currently.
Actually, I pulled apart the spring packs and only left the two main leafs so I could test flex and interference during this stage of the build.
They sit just about flat currently which is nice, but I'll add more leafs as I add bumper, winch, ect....
Then I'll trim the ubolts.
Are you using stock front springs?
- Thread starter
- #192
No, they are 3" lift springs from TG.
I got the HD set so I'd have more leafs to play with.
These are a little over an inch longer than stock and the spring pin moves the axle about two inches forward from stock.
Similar to using the rear springs up front.
I also bumped the axle a further inch forward using the three hole spring pads on the axle housing.
I have since learned the 4" and 5" lift springs are even longer, but I don't want more lift and don't think I have any more room for them on this '81 frame.
My shackle angles are nice as is.
Probably more than you wanted to know...
- Thread starter
- #193
Took a break from the axle and steering to finally revisit the brake booster.
Years ago, @jamarquardt22 gave me a larger, double diaphragm booster from a later pickup.
Between it and the firewall spacers from my original booster, plus some gentle massaging with a little body hammer, has it sitting perfect. It now just clears the clutch reservour and steering shaft. Should help, excited to find out just how much!
The brakes were just about useless with the old axle and booster, and where high on the list, post test-drive.
Years ago, @jamarquardt22 gave me a larger, double diaphragm booster from a later pickup.
Between it and the firewall spacers from my original booster, plus some gentle massaging with a little body hammer, has it sitting perfect. It now just clears the clutch reservour and steering shaft. Should help, excited to find out just how much!
The brakes were just about useless with the old axle and booster, and where high on the list, post test-drive.
- Thread starter
- #194
I've been quietly thrashing on this thing.
I committed to Rubithon 2020 and this is the rig I want to do it in, so....
Got my shop in order post move and can finally move around more better.
Started going through the new to me, built rear axle.
Calipers were seized, left axle seal was leaking and it had a spool in it which I did not want to run.
It is IFS width and has some aftermarket axle shafts (foreshadowing), full float conversion with disks, it is trussed on top and shaved underneath. Who ever assembled it did a very nice job originally.
Figuring out the inner axle seal and full float conversion.
New IFS calipers and pads.
Went to reassemble and could not get the lockouts to seat. They were sticking out about a quarter inch and would not sit flush with the hub flange.
I committed to Rubithon 2020 and this is the rig I want to do it in, so....
Got my shop in order post move and can finally move around more better.
Started going through the new to me, built rear axle.
Calipers were seized, left axle seal was leaking and it had a spool in it which I did not want to run.
It is IFS width and has some aftermarket axle shafts (foreshadowing), full float conversion with disks, it is trussed on top and shaved underneath. Who ever assembled it did a very nice job originally.
Figuring out the inner axle seal and full float conversion.
New IFS calipers and pads.
Went to reassemble and could not get the lockouts to seat. They were sticking out about a quarter inch and would not sit flush with the hub flange.
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- Thread starter
- #196
Turns out, the spool is hollow through the middle where the shafts slide in. The Harrop is not, the aftermarket axles were too long to fit in the housing with the e-locker in place and that is why the hubs would not seat.
A quick call to @orangefj45 confirmed this may be the case. Georg says, just trim them a ¼" or so.
Enter @OTRAMM 's hand-me-down lathe and an angle grinder....
A quick call to @orangefj45 confirmed this may be the case. Georg says, just trim them a ¼" or so.
Enter @OTRAMM 's hand-me-down lathe and an angle grinder....
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.- Thread starter
- #198
While I'm back here, thought I'd play with some rear leaf packs a friend gave me from his Nissan Frontier.
They are 54" long and same width as Toyota springs.
These are a good 10" longer than stock.
I added longer shackles and welded new spring hangers to the frame at the forward spring hanger.
I am able use the stock shackle hangers as the longer shackle and relaxed 45° angle put the spring pin right in the center of the wheel arch.
I popped off the leaf retainers/binders and they sagged/drooped almost to the ground. Super squishy and a nice ride hight.
I will probably pull the overload spring and insert an add a leaf as things settle in.
They are 54" long and same width as Toyota springs.
These are a good 10" longer than stock.
I added longer shackles and welded new spring hangers to the frame at the forward spring hanger.
I am able use the stock shackle hangers as the longer shackle and relaxed 45° angle put the spring pin right in the center of the wheel arch.
I popped off the leaf retainers/binders and they sagged/drooped almost to the ground. Super squishy and a nice ride hight.
I will probably pull the overload spring and insert an add a leaf as things settle in.