81 Proof - Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[Zhfreund]

I'll start with a small introduction to myself and then the vehicle. I am a professional photographer based out of Grand Junction, Colorado - I have been wheeling and traveling since I was a kid with my father and previously owned a 2006 Tacoma I built for my needs. I have always wanted to do a proper build thread for one of my trucks (to hopefully help others with issues and solutions I find, and to be able to see and show the growth of a rig to others). So without further ado here is a build thread for my 1991 HDJ81 VX Limited!

After selling my old Tacoma I knew I wanted an 80 series Land Cruiser. I searched the American market for a couple months before researching the diesel models and deciding that the benefits of an imported cruiser outweighed the disadvantages. I picked up the truck on June 18th 2020 after being imported by Steve with Land Cruisers Direct. The truck had 157,000km on it and has all the factory options (swingout, fridge console, winch, headlight washers, altimeter/compass, etc.). Here is the first pictures I took of the truck, just minutes after leaving Steve's shop. Before picking up the truck I had a bit of work done to the truck as well:

1. Big End Bearings
2. Timing Belt w/ Pulley (Toyota)
3. Accessory Belts (Toyota) and Idler Pulley (Gates)
4. Accessory Gauges for EGT, Boost, Transmission Temp, and Coolant Temp (Glowshift)
5. Leather Seat Covers Installed

If you want to see more adventure pictures with the cruiser check out @81.proof on Instagram. Lots more to come in this thread, I will try to post updates with any modifications and issues/fixes that are made!

 

[Zhfreund]

The first step after we picked up the cruiser was to get the new wheels and tires installed. I opted to run a set of 287/75 16 Yokohama M/T G003 paired with some Black Rhino Stadium wheels. I ran the same tire on my Tacoma and loved them, they have low road noise for an M/T and have great traction off road!

In concept it was easy - drop the truck off at Discount Tire, eat lunch, and come back to pick it up and drive to the rental house for the night. Turns out though that the BR wheel has a center bore that fits the cruisers (112.1), but it tapers in to accommodate for a center cap. Being that I was in SLC and I knew of no local companies I started to call around and see if any wheel repair shops or machine shops could sneak me in and bore the wheels out. I got beyond lucky and was able to talk with Kory Watkins (who owns D.R.P. Machine in West Jordan, Utah). He was able to get the wheels boreand I was able to test fit in the parking lot. I cannot recommend his shop enough, they were all super nice and he only charged me $100 ($140 with a tip) and I was on the road!

Wheels - Black Rhino Stadium (Bronze) in a -10 offset in a 16"
Tires - LT285 /75 R16 126Q E1 Yokohama M/T G003

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Those wheels look great but I love those jdm vx wheels too. What are you going to do with the old wheels?

 

[Zhfreund]

The next project was to install a roof rack. I have always ran a RTT on my vehicles and wanted to mount my old tent onto the cruiser (I plan to swap to a different style or do a pop-top conversion down the road for center of gravity purposes). I went back and forth between Prinsu and Bowfin for the rack - my criteria was low profile and multiple mounting points along the sides (for lights, antenna, awning, etc.) and I settled on the Bowfin rack after reading lots of reviews.

I am beyond happy with the quality of the Bowfin. It arrived well labeled and packed up very securely. The clamp system on the bowfin is in my opinion superior to the Prinsu and is very adjustable! I did make the mistake of mounting the side panels backwards (thinking I was smart swapping the sides labeled driver and passenger).

The install of the rack is super easy (with 2 people) and the hardest part was securing the tent to the rack itself. I have no noise with the rack/tent on top and am very happy with the quality of the rack!

 

[Zhfreund]

Those wheels look great but I love those jdm vx wheels too. What are you going to do with the old wheels?

I love the look of them as well, I am planning to clean them up and run them A. when I am tired of these wheels/they get scratched up or B. As a winter set here in CO!

 

[Zhfreund]

Next step in the updates was getting some more light output on the cruiser. I have ran all kinds of lights/locations over the years (roof mounted, ditch, spots, amber, white, etc.) and so far I have been blown away by Baja Designs and I kept two of their Squadron Sport (amber) lights from my old truck. I wanted the lights lower and center to I decided to replace the large round PIAA lights from Japan with them. Quick and easy, I was able to reuse the wiring and switch from the old lights and simply soldered the quick disconnects to the current wiring/relay!

Baja Designs Squadron Sport (Amber) - $215.00 per set (6,300 Lumens)

 

[Zhfreund]

The next step for the Cruiser was to swap out the existing aftermarket radio (that only played AM radio and was in all Japanese) for a US spec double din radio. I opted for Pioneer model #AVH-1550NEX - with its Apple Play capability, actual volume buttons, and smaller screen it fit my needs perfectly. Swapping over was fairly straightforward with a wiring harness for a US Spec from Bestbuy. The hardest part was pulling out the old radio/TV connections. I did run into the issue of the radio fuse blowing each time it was powered on but after some reading found out you must disconnect the factory amp with most aftermarket radios!

The only other flaw/issue I have ran into is the radio (FM/AM) itself wont work - I only get static. This will be a project for down the road as I use my phone 100% of the time anyway for music but something I am not finding much info on (antenna still works and all wires have power and are wired in).

 

[Zhfreund]

When I picked up the cruiser from LCD Steve was finishing up "fixing" my drivers side headlight washer when I walked in. It turned out the part he had ordered hadn't shown up so he stole a part from his (HDJ81) to fix it. I didn't realize until later that evening that the washer still didn't work. Steve immediately mailed me out the correct part (Toyota Part #85031-30020) - it turns out the check valve on along the fluid hose rusts inside and ends up blocking the flow of fluid to the sprayer nozzle itself.

A quick 10 minutes later the new valve was on and the headlight sprayers both work! One thing to note is that with a stock bumper the easiest way to access the sprayer hoses is by removing the headlight itself.

 

[Zhfreund]

A momentous occasion for the cruiser that must be noted - 100,000 miles!!

 

[bryce0225]

found ya on mud! It’s la.cruiser. Awesome thread!

 

[Okiegonian]

The first step after we picked up the cruiser was to get the new wheels and tires installed. I opted to run a set of 287/75 16 Yokohama M/T G003 paired with some Black Rhino Stadium wheels. I ran the same tire on my Tacoma and loved them, they have low road noise for an M/T and have great traction off road!

In concept it was easy - drop the truck off at Discount Tire, eat lunch, and come back to pick it up and drive to the rental house for the night. Turns out though that the BR wheel has a center bore that fits the cruisers (112.1), but it tapers in to accommodate for a center cap. Being that I was in SLC and I knew of no local companies I started to call around and see if any wheel repair shops or machine shops could sneak me in and bore the wheels out. I got beyond lucky and was able to talk with Kory Watkins (who owns D.R.P. Machine in West Jordan, Utah). He was able to get the wheels boreand I was able to test fit in the parking lot. I cannot recommend his shop enough, they were all super nice and he only charged me $100 ($140 with a tip) and I was on the road!

Wheels - Black Rhino Stadium (Bronze) in a -10 offset in a 16"
Tires - LT285 /75 R16 126Q E1 Yokohama M/T G003



View attachment 2407865View attachment 2407888

I was moments away from ordering these rims for my 62 when I stumbled across your thread. Seems a safe bet that, like you, I would need the taper bored to clear my 62's hubs (106mm hub bore for a 62).

With the wheels machined, are you able to use hub-centric rings? If not, how well do they hold their balance on a removal/remount?

Thanks for any insight you have!